Everything you need to know about slings and swivels for safaris and safari rifles

I bought the Murray quick set rifle sling this morning. I’ll have it tomorrow. Excited to try it out. Thanks for the great thread. I would have not known anything about this sling otherwise.

I cannot speak to the condition of a brand new Murray Sling, but I can speak to the "replica" we made and to a very, very used Murray sling I've borrowed in Africa.

When our sling was new, it was very stiff and uncooperative. We used a lot of leather conditioner and rolled it every which direction to turn stiff latigo into very soft latigo in the same way an old set of reins gets that soft feel.

When very supple and broken in, the Murray slider buckle moves instantly with minimal effort. If yours is uncooperative when you get it, you may need to lube it up with conditioner and break it in while watching TV.
 
I have the trader Keith canvas sling with the narrow leather frogs on the end. It is definitely traditional in look. It is not quick to adjust whatsoever, nor is it exceptionally durable. Specific to durability, when it gets worked the belt loop sliders that cover the leather ends start to slide around, potentially sliding up enough that the brass hooks that go through the holes can slip out.

I used one with NECG swivels on my double rifle on safari. I knew it was going to be cumbersome and potentially snag in the Jesse. It did many times. However, I was willing to sacrifice odds of success to protect a particularly valuable rifle that I could not use a Dick Murray sling on due the euro sling swivels. (Dick Murray slings are too thick to slide through the euro swivel loops)

On my magazine rifles, I always use a Murray sling which works perfect. I was introduced to them by a sling-hating PH with 50 years experience in the Bush. He convinced me by borrowing his for a 14 day hunt.

Pic of Trader Keith sling attached so readers can follow along with the conversation.

View attachment 624652
Love my slings from them
 
I've always been a fan of "Super-Slings" made by The Outdoor Connection.

I don't like them as much as I used to, because they have started using sling swivels that are square in cross section, and do not adjust as easily as the old ones with round Uncle Mike's type swivels.

I have an older 1 1/4" solid brown one that is my favorite.



My DR rides on a 1 1/4 Boyt Leather sling. It works perfectly.


I carried a bolt-action rifle on my last trip that had a Magpul MS1 sling. I was constantly adjusting it, because the buckle tended to slip. I'm not a fan of those anymore...


The Quick Set Latigo Slings from Brownell's are great, especially the 1 1/4" ones on heavy rifles.



https://www.brownells.com/gear/slings-sling-swivels/slings/quick-set-latigo-sling/
 

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I cannot speak to the condition of a brand new Murray Sling, but I can speak to the "replica" we made and to a very, very used Murray sling I've borrowed in Africa.

When our sling was new, it was very stiff and uncooperative. We used a lot of leather conditioner and rolled it every which direction to turn stiff latigo into very soft latigo in the same way an old set of reins gets that soft feel.

When very supple and broken in, the Murray slider buckle moves instantly with minimal effort. If yours is uncooperative when you get it, you may need to lube it up with conditioner and break it in while watching TV.
The sling I received is very soft and flexible already. It’s very easy to adjust. It definitely is saving me a little time getting on target. I don’t have to be conscious of where the sling is at compared to the claw sling I had been using.
IMG_0059.jpeg
 
The sling I received is very soft and flexible already. It’s very easy to adjust. It definitely is saving me a little time getting on target. I don’t have to be conscious of where the sling is at compared to the claw sling I had been using. View attachment 625537
I'm not sure what you mean by "conscious of where the sling is at" for claw sling. It certainly appears to me that the metal buckle on the sling on this rifle could easily rub against the floorplate and mark it, especially when loaded into a soft case.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "conscious of where the sling is at" for claw sling. It certainly appears to me that the metal buckle on the sling on this rifle could easily rub against the floorplate and mark it, especially when loaded into a soft case.
The claw sling has a wide shoulder pad that I would have to lift over the tripod head so that the rifle would sit flat and not canted. Also the buckle position is easily changed when it’s loosened. I think it may be something to watch for but shouldn’t be much of an issue.
 
The claw sling has a wide shoulder pad that I would have to lift over the tripod head so that the rifle would sit flat and not canted. Also the buckle position is easily changed when it’s loosened. I think it may be something to watch for but shouldn’t be much of an issue.
I was thinking of military claw slings. They are uniform width, usually 1". I'm also not wild about fat slings. Or neoprene. I once borrowed my brother's 300 Win BAR with stretchy neoprene sling a couple of winters back. Too squirrely and they get soggy in foul weather.
 
One possible drawback I see to Murray type slings with big open loops of leather is they might get hung up on stuff, particularly gear detritus some hunters feel they must hang on their belts. I wear a binocular holster on my belt, off side. A handgun would definitely be an issue I'd think. Any thoughts from those who use this style?
 
One possible drawback I see to Murray type slings with big open loops of leather is they might get hung up on stuff, particularly gear detritus some hunters feel they must hang on their belts. I wear a binocular holster on my belt, off side. A handgun would definitely be an issue I'd think. Any thoughts from those who use this style?

Its entire purpose is to not do what you suggest it might do. It allows instant adjustment of length when carried as a sling, or instant tightening to have it completely taught under the gun for stalking without snagging.
 
Its entire purpose is to not do what you suggest it might do. It allows instant adjustment of length when carried as a sling, or instant tightening to have it completely taught under the gun for stalking without snagging.
I would prefer to simply take off the sling for stalking. It would seem the biggest concern with double loop of leather getting caught on belt detritus would be when the gun is slung on shoulder not when stalking. Also, a tight sling under the gun would, I'd think, impede getting on the sticks?
 
I have encountered the same situation with older M/S rifles and Drillings. Although it might sound crazy, I've been using surplus Chinese SKS slings. They are an olive drab, woven cotton strap with leather ends that have fit all of my older, European sling loops so far.
I found these at Amazon. I even had a choice of O.D. or khaki. I got the khaki canvass one. It works perfectly! Even looks good on my dad's rifle. The cost was just about $13. Thanks for the tip!

Doug
 
I would prefer to simply take off the sling for stalking. It would seem the biggest concern with double loop of leather getting caught on belt detritus would be when the gun is slung on shoulder not when stalking. Also, a tight sling under the gun would, I'd think, impede getting on the sticks?

It does not. Hence the point of the thread where we covered the problem with slings and why PHs that hate or prohibit slings tend to have a sole exception to that generalization, the Murray sling.

They’ve worked for me on the last 100 days in the bush hunting dangerous game.
 
It does not. Hence the point of the thread where we covered the problem with slings and why PHs that hate or prohibit slings tend to have a sole exception to that generalization, the Murray sling.

They’ve worked for me on the last 100 days in the bush hunting dangerous game.
Okay. Let's look at the image posted of Murray sling de-slacked for stalking.

Post in thread 'Everything you need to know about slings and swivels for safaris and safari rifles' https://www.africahunting.com/threa...-safaris-and-safari-rifles.84710/post-1278270

So ... how is the stalking shooter supposed to get his hand onto fore end underneath that sling in a hurry? Throw it on sticks and it's clearly going to be sitting on top of the sling, not on the sticks. And even though tightened up for stalking I see plenty of leather loop to get caught on stuff. By contrast, this simple "cheap" sling has no loops.
20240806_111146.jpg

It is adjustable but I've never bothered changing it. Occasionally it comes off, usually at the range. I typically track game in rugged country with heavy cover. I've found its better to have the rifle closest to my center of gravity (by my side on my shoulder) with both hands potentially free to catch my balance, push brush out of the way, etc. In Africa the sling often comes off during final stalk. The terrain is typically less rugged. No matter what model, slings just don't mate well with shooting sticks. Over here I never hunt with sticks. No PH or tracker to carry them for me. So my sling never comes off hunting deer, elk, or moose.
 
Your confusion and assumptions wouldn’t be covered by the contents of this thread, but in a nutshell, shooting sticks aren’t used or held in the manner you suggest. When sticks are used in the conventional method, a Murray sling does not interfere with their use.

If you’d like to discuss shooting sticks, let’s create a separate thread on how they are held and used.

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Speaking solder-on swivel studs. I’m looking for the oval type like rigby uses on the bottom of the barrel. I can’t seem to find anything out there on the shelf. Anyone have any leads?
 
I’ve had this conversation several times over the past few months and I thought it would be worth memorializing for others to understand. I’ll start with the factual differences and types from a user/collector’s perspective, then I’ll go to the opinion on what is good or bad on a safari.

There are 4 primary types of swivels in existence because there are 3 primary types of sling eyes. If you don’t know this, you’ll buy the wrong one!

1.) Vintage British rifles and early US Winchesters used a large oversized sling swivel stud. These small studs are actually quite valuable ($75 and up) in themselves because they are often missing from vintage guns. They were designed to work with two types of attachments.

The first type was a sling that had rawhide straps at both ends. This was the most preferred by the early great white hunters of Africa because it was absolutely silent. These slings are quite uncommon today, with both Trader Keith and Rigby creating reproductions of the slings. The rawhide tags are soaked in a leather conditioner, a looping knot was fashioned to attach them to the rifle, and when dry the knots would tighten to be virtually foolproof. The consistent complaint of this type of sling arrangement was that you could not get the sling off the rifle and thus you were getting snagged up in the bush hopelessly by a non-adjustable sling you could not remove.​
The second means of affixing a sling to the large sling eyes was with a “fish hook” sling swivel. These swivels are vintage and quite valuable. In the US we call these winchester fish hook swivels. In England they call these Parker Hale fish hook swivels. When hooked around the sling studs it allowed the easy install and removal of a sling, but at the drawback that they rattle quite loudly and are quite annoying. While it’s a blessing to see these included with a vintage English rifle, they are collectibles more than practical tools for a modern hunt. The original fish hook swivels can sell from $75 to $250 a pair depending on era and country of origin.​
2.) Mid-century to present European rifles. If you own say a best grade Heym double rifle, or a nice mid-century Austrian stalking rifle, they have sling studs on them that look just like American “Uncle Mike’s” sling studs…but they are not! They are smaller in length than American studs and the hole is smaller. Uninformed owners frequently drill the holes oversized thinking they’ve solved the problem of getting sling swivels for these guns when all they did is damage a gun and ensure further damage of a gun so equipped. These undersized European studs and barrel bands are designed for a specific sling swivel made by EAW and Rechnagel in Germany. The sling swivels are quick detach, they do not rattle due to exacting tolerances, and most importantly they have an articulating hinge in them. This articulation prevents the sling swivel from hinging too far and damaging the stock and barrel of the rifle because they cannot clang around to a flat position that would rub the gun. They cost about $45-$60 a set for the sling swivels and they come in both a narrow 7/8” loop width (for skinny slings or skinny sling ends) and a larger 1” loop for the more common width of the end of a rifle sling. If you take anything from this article, please for the love of god do not drill out the sling stud holes on the barrel and stock of your European rifles. Get the right sling swivel, it isn’t an Uncle Mike’s!

View attachment 624588

3.) Lastly is the design that needs minimal description. The “Uncle Mikes” style sling swivel and studs are ubiquitous, found on 99% of the rifles every reader owns.

Leaving the realm of fact, now let’s go to the opinion of virtually all PHs and historical safari hunters regarding slings. The general concensus is they hate slings because A.) They snag, B.) They rattle, C.) They get in the way of getting on sticks quickly without excess movement blowing your stalk. My opinion is consistent with a century of expert hunting advice that is far more credible than my own opinion.

So a terse conclusion is don’t have slings on your safari rifles, they are as obnoxious as they are inconvenient, ruining more hunts than their utility delivers.

The longer answer is a better answer, however. A.) If you carry your rifle on long stalks you’ll get tired enough that you may drop your gun, B.) due to carry fatigue you eventually start walking right through the thorns scratching the hell out of your rifle’s stock while drawing blood all over your body which is of lesser concern. C.) The over shoulder carry holding the barrel is common in Africa, but it is so unsafe that it is not considered an appropriate carry method in any Hunter Education curriculum AND it ensures you need $1000 barrel rebluing after 1-2 safaris. You will wear the bluing right off the barrel carrying over shoulder, barrel forward.

So the exception to the sling rule is one I was introduced by African PHs. “The Dick Murray Leather Sling”. The Murray sling has a sliding buckle on it that allows you to instantly change the length of the sling. While walking, you have your rifle slinged. When you are nearing final approach, or you’re getting on sticks, a flick of the hand tightens the sling instantly to sit tight-and-flush to the underside of your rifle so that you don’t get hung up. They cost about $100 and they are the absolute best design for this purpose. If you ask many seasoned PHs that are anti-sling, they usually will say “no slings allowed, except Dick Murray slings”.

View attachment 624589
Rookhawk - thank you I learnt a lot! No I did not bore out the hole (thank goodness - it was a custom Mauser 404J barrel band) but thought how come it does not fit??? Now I know!
 

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