Everything you need to know about slings and swivels for safaris and safari rifles

All leather and cleverly designed, this South African made sling compliments a classic express rifle and is silent while hunting as well!

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Thank you @rookhawk for the education and the information. It strikes me that a sling that combined the silent rawhide ties on the end, along with the Murray sliding buckle adjustment system, would be a pretty handy thing; certainly one that I'd be interested to buy. Perhaps Murray Leather could be induced to offer one. I like the rawhide ties for the historical/romantic aspect, I like the looks, and I like the fact that they're not going to scratch up a firearm or make noise. Having the adjustment buckle would take that sling to another level.

I agree with you. I would imagine if you called Murray Leather they’d likely accommodate your request. It solves the “final approach” predicament when you want to side carry your rifle, preparing to find a buff or ele at any moment where you may need to take a very fast shot.
 
Not what most would call "traditional", but it's an option...
 
Not what most would call "traditional", but it's an option...
A suggestion. Before setting this up on the drill press I would drill a very shallow pilot starting hole with fine drill bit. Then with the brad point drill bit in an electric hand drill, switch tool to reverse (for backing out stuck drill bits) and start the hole for recessed swivel housing. The bit, of course, will not drill into wood in reverse. But it should score the wood fibers on surface without tearing. That way the hole will be started clean when set up on the drill press with drill cutting clockwise. If your drill press can be changed to counterclockwise revolution (some can), then no need to start with hand drill.
 
Not what most would call "traditional", but it's an option...
These would be ideal for fore end especially. With sling removed there is nothing to get caught in bench rest rig or shooting sticks. At the range I will usually unthread my forward sling studs just to get them out of the way. However, I don't care for the idea of mounting the sling on the flat of butt. This would seem to eliminate switching shoulders?

Curious why this guy didn't just remove the conventional forward sling stud and open the existing hole up for new recessed QD sling swivel cup. Why drill an extra hole in the wood?

It is my understanding that threading the cups into stocks is primarily, if not exclusively, intended for synthetic stocks. I think for wood stocks the cups are anchored with a screw through the center.
 
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Just sharing a photo to explain the superiority of the European sling swivel system versus the Uncle Mikes. This is a screen grab of a Heym double I found on the web.

Note the two notches on the outside of the barrel sling stud? When used with a European swivel that has the articulating hinge ($60 per pair) the sling swivel cannot clang into the barrels because the swivel cannot travel 180 degrees the way an american swivel system can. Thus, no noise and no barrel/stock damage from your sling swivel.

This is why I cringe when people drill out their European gun’s swivel studs…it took a lot more engineering thought to design such a system than it took engineering ignorance to drill them out, ruining them for the sake of an uncle mike’s swivel.

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Just sharing a photo to explain the superiority of the European sling swivel system versus the Uncle Mikes. This is a screen grab of a Heym double I found on the web.

Note the two notches on the outside of the barrel sling stud? When used with a European swivel that has the articulating hinge ($60 per pair) the sling swivel cannot clang into the barrels because the swivel cannot travel 180 degrees the way an american swivel system can. Thus, no noise and no barrel/stock damage from your sling swivel.

This is why I cringe when people drill out their European gun’s swivel studs…it took a lot more engineering thought to design such a system than it took engineering ignorance to drill them out, ruining them for the sake of an uncle mike’s swivel.

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If the leather strap is run through the hoop on an Uncle Mike's detachable sling swivel, how can it ever clang onto barrels or wood? Only the leather will ever touch the gun's metal or wood. Certainly, this could be a problem with old classic style permanent conventional rings when sling is removed, but NOT Uncle Mike's QD detachable style ... IF one properly installs Uncle Mike's swivel studs. Note those cute "white line" plastic spacer rings (which are available in black but hard to find). They are not mere decorations. These spacers mount UM's studs just high enough so the metal of their detachable sling swivels cannot touch the stock. Look closely at Uncle Mike's swivel studs. They also have keepers to stop the swivels from overtravel onto wood. But for whatever reason, the keepers require the ring spacers or studs will be too close to stock.

Mind you, I'm not singing praises for Uncle Mike's. Their detachable swivels will eventually fall apart. Their locking pins are pressed/peened into place on the fixed end. The pins will work themselves loose and fall out.
 
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What kind of cross fit-yoga gyrations are y’all doing with your rifle sling. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Seriously, I did have one come loose on a TC carbine and a 10/22. I took the sling stud out, put some Gorilla glue on it and put piece of toothpick in the hole, that stopped it.

Safe shooting
Believe me, I've seen plenty of waterfowl shotguns get banged up while carrying bags of decoys, etc. and being carried with a sling. Goose guns lead a hard life!

I try to baby anything with nice walnut, but a hunting gun is likely to develop some "Character" over the years.
 
If the leather strap is run through the hoop on an Uncle Mike's detachable sling swivel, how can it ever clang onto barrels or wood? Only the leather will ever touch the gun's metal or wood. Certainly, this could be a problem with old classic style permanent conventional rings when sling is removed, but NOT Uncle Mike's QD detachable style ... IF one properly installs Uncle Mike's swivel studs. Note those cute "white line" plastic spacer rings (which are available in black but hard to find). They are not mere decorations. These spacers mount UM's studs just high enough so the metal of their detachable sling swivels cannot touch the stock or metal. Look closely at Uncle Mike's swivel studs. They also have keepers to stop the swivels from overtravel onto wood or barrel metal. But for whatever reason, the keepers require the ring spacers or studs will be too close to stock.

Mind you, I'm not singing praises for Uncle Mike's. Their detachable swivels will eventually fall apart. Their locking pins are pressed/peened into place on the fixed end. The pins will work themselves loose and fall out.


The top of an uncle mikes swivel (the loop) can hinge and does damage barrel bands and stocks. It was a system designed for simple guns, not one considering best guns nor the silence preferred for close range spot and stalk work.

The tolerances between a conventional stud and uncle mikes swivel is also generous, leading to more rattle.

The European/German swivel and studs are much tighter tolerances and were designed to protect the guns from damage while remaining quiet(er).

The Brits of course had the quietest approach we discussed above, oversized sling eyes and a rawhide thong sling tied to them.
 
Believe me, I've seen plenty of waterfowl shotguns get banged up while carrying bags of decoys, etc. and being carried with a sling. Goose guns lead a hard life!

I try to baby anything with nice walnut, but a hunting gun is likely to develop some "Character" over the years.
Yep. Waterfowl hunting = wet hunting = wood swelling and shrinking constantly. Eventually screw in sling studs will loosen as the hole in wood opens up from swelling/shrinking. It's one reason why my classic Browning A5 goose gun now wears synthetic.
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The top of an uncle mikes swivel (the loop) can hinge and does damage barrel bands and stocks. It was a system designed for simple guns, not one considering best guns nor the silence preferred for close range spot and stalk work.

The tolerances between a conventional stud and uncle mikes swivel is also generous, leading to more rattle.

The European/German swivel and studs are much tighter tolerances and were designed to protect the guns from damage while remaining quiet(er).

The Brits of course had the quietest approach we discussed above, oversized sling eyes and a rawhide thong sling tied to them.
Here's Uncle Mike's QD swivel and stud. Hardly what I would call sloppy tolerance between locking pin and stud. Quite snug in fact.
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And here I am pushing down as hard as I can on swivel to try and make it mark the wood. Still plenty of clearance. Note the keeper ring machined into lip of the stud. But it won't keep the swivel from touching wood unless stud is mounted with the plastic spacer.
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Note how I have reseated the loose connecting pin by peening it with punch and hammer. That fix won't last, hence I'm giving the Titan swivels a try. If they ever get here. Third back order with Optics Planet. I'm trying another vendor. Titan QD swivels are shorter. I suspect I will be able to do away with spacer rings altogether. Hopefully the locking pins are same diameter as Uncle Mike's.
 
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I found these in a pile of swivels I have. For European studs
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Don't forget the Pachmayr Flush Mount sling swivels. With the sling removed they are the cleanest in appearance of any system. I had a Pachmayr .458 Lott on a pre-64 Model 70 with these at one time, and they seemed to work very well. But they necessitated mounting the forward swivel in the fore arm instead of on the barrel. Sunny Hill makes a version of these that are not screw in, but held by two screws like regular inletted sling swivels.
I was always leery of the loops, as they were cast or MIM or something, but I never heard of anyone actually having problems with them.
Kurt
 
Thanks. I doubt I would use them. My big bore rifles are American made.

I have one Heym DR and I wouldn’t sling it.
 
I agree with you. I would imagine if you called Murray Leather they’d likely accommodate your request. It solves the “final approach” predicament when you want to side carry your rifle, preparing to find a buff or ele at any moment where you may need to take a very fast shot.
I did speak with Mr. Murray about it today; he agreed to "Fix myself an adult beverage and ponder on it." I'll report back if he comes up with an idea for how to do it.
 
Don't forget the Pachmayr Flush Mount sling swivels. With the sling removed they are the cleanest in appearance of any system. I had a Pachmayr .458 Lott on a pre-64 Model 70 with these at one time, and they seemed to work very well. But they necessitated mounting the forward swivel in the fore arm instead of on the barrel. Sunny Hill makes a version of these that are not screw in, but held by two screws like regular inletted sling swivels.
I was always leery of the loops, as they were cast or MIM or something, but I never heard of anyone actually having problems with them.
Kurt
Pachmayer apparently stopped making those years ago. My gunsmith buddy said they did break.
 
I’ve had this conversation several times over the past few months and I thought it would be worth memorializing for others to understand. I’ll start with the factual differences and types from a user/collector’s perspective, then I’ll go to the opinion on what is good or bad on a safari.

There are 4 primary types of swivels in existence because there are 3 primary types of sling eyes. If you don’t know this, you’ll buy the wrong one!

1.) Vintage British rifles and early US Winchesters used a large oversized sling swivel stud. These small studs are actually quite valuable ($75 and up) in themselves because they are often missing from vintage guns. They were designed to work with two types of attachments.

The first type was a sling that had rawhide straps at both ends. This was the most preferred by the early great white hunters of Africa because it was absolutely silent. These slings are quite uncommon today, with both Trader Keith and Rigby creating reproductions of the slings. The rawhide tags are soaked in a leather conditioner, a looping knot was fashioned to attach them to the rifle, and when dry the knots would tighten to be virtually foolproof. The consistent complaint of this type of sling arrangement was that you could not get the sling off the rifle and thus you were getting snagged up in the bush hopelessly by a non-adjustable sling you could not remove.​
The second means of affixing a sling to the large sling eyes was with a “fish hook” sling swivel. These swivels are vintage and quite valuable. In the US we call these winchester fish hook swivels. In England they call these Parker Hale fish hook swivels. When hooked around the sling studs it allowed the easy install and removal of a sling, but at the drawback that they rattle quite loudly and are quite annoying. While it’s a blessing to see these included with a vintage English rifle, they are collectibles more than practical tools for a modern hunt. The original fish hook swivels can sell from $75 to $250 a pair depending on era and country of origin.​
2.) Mid-century to present European rifles. If you own say a best grade Heym double rifle, or a nice mid-century Austrian stalking rifle, they have sling studs on them that look just like American “Uncle Mike’s” sling studs…but they are not! They are smaller in length than American studs and the hole is smaller. Uninformed owners frequently drill the holes oversized thinking they’ve solved the problem of getting sling swivels for these guns when all they did is damage a gun and ensure further damage of a gun so equipped. These undersized European studs and barrel bands are designed for a specific sling swivel made by EAW and Rechnagel in Germany. The sling swivels are quick detach, they do not rattle due to exacting tolerances, and most importantly they have an articulating hinge in them. This articulation prevents the sling swivel from hinging too far and damaging the stock and barrel of the rifle because they cannot clang around to a flat position that would rub the gun. They cost about $45-$60 a set for the sling swivels and they come in both a narrow 7/8” loop width (for skinny slings or skinny sling ends) and a larger 1” loop for the more common width of the end of a rifle sling. If you take anything from this article, please for the love of god do not drill out the sling stud holes on the barrel and stock of your European rifles. Get the right sling swivel, it isn’t an Uncle Mike’s!

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3.) Lastly is the design that needs minimal description. The “Uncle Mikes” style sling swivel and studs are ubiquitous, found on 99% of the rifles every reader owns.

Leaving the realm of fact, now let’s go to the opinion of virtually all PHs and historical safari hunters regarding slings. The general concensus is they hate slings because A.) They snag, B.) They rattle, C.) They get in the way of getting on sticks quickly without excess movement blowing your stalk. My opinion is consistent with a century of expert hunting advice that is far more credible than my own opinion.

So a terse conclusion is don’t have slings on your safari rifles, they are as obnoxious as they are inconvenient, ruining more hunts than their utility delivers.

The longer answer is a better answer, however. A.) If you carry your rifle on long stalks you’ll get tired enough that you may drop your gun, B.) due to carry fatigue you eventually start walking right through the thorns scratching the hell out of your rifle’s stock while drawing blood all over your body which is of lesser concern. C.) The over shoulder carry holding the barrel is common in Africa, but it is so unsafe that it is not considered an appropriate carry method in any Hunter Education curriculum AND it ensures you need $1000 barrel rebluing after 1-2 safaris. You will wear the bluing right off the barrel carrying over shoulder, barrel forward.

So the exception to the sling rule is one I was introduced by African PHs. “The Dick Murray Leather Sling”. The Murray sling has a sliding buckle on it that allows you to instantly change the length of the sling. While walking, you have your rifle slinged. When you are nearing final approach, or you’re getting on sticks, a flick of the hand tightens the sling instantly to sit tight-and-flush to the underside of your rifle so that you don’t get hung up. They cost about $100 and they are the absolute best design for this purpose. If you ask many seasoned PHs that are anti-sling, they usually will say “no slings allowed, except Dick Murray slings”.

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A great summary of the different sling/ swivel options . I use all these types of swivel depending on the rifle type and age .The Uncle Mike types my least preferred . I always have slings on my rifles for ease of carry . My preference is wide webbing . I hunt in OZ so no issues about shooting off sticks . I just use the nearest tree for a rest .
 
I bought the Murray quick set rifle sling this morning. I’ll have it tomorrow. Excited to try it out. Thanks for the great thread. I would have not known anything about this sling otherwise.
 
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And then there are these two types of US military sling swivels and slings.

Inexpensive and much easier to use.

Add a piece of mole skin around the swivel ring for ultra quiet.

I'm on the road so the photos and slings are the best representation.
 

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