I've just today returned from my annual holiday, which this year was in Cuba.
Cigars have been a major focus and I've smoked a lot these past few weeks in consequence.
I did a tour both of a tobacco plantation in Vuelta Abajo which supplies top quality product for the (state-owned and operated) H. Upmann factory in Havana (R&J, Cohiba, Partagas, a few others).
Link to factory description here, which does it better justice than I can:
https://www.cigaraficionado.com/article/havanas-cigar-factories-16209
It's heartening to see the sheer amount of time and skilled labour that goes into those things. I feel a lot of luxury brands make a pretense at this, but I'm not joking when I say that every step, and I mean every step from seedling to final boxing, is done entirely by hand. Also interesting to realise that a skilled cigar manufacturer in Cuba earns more than their doctors or engineers do...
What is less heartening is the amount of state influence and control over every aspect of it. For the tobacco planatation owner for example, 100% of his production of cigar grade tobacco is taken by the state every year, and then they return between 20 and 5% back to him for his own sale, the amount depending on the harvest. Some years, he claimed, he saw none of it. The state is also the only supplier of tobacco seeds and seedlings on the island, with a central nursery for the plants in Havana. Retention or re-use of seeds from the previous years crop is strictly forbidden, subject to loss of license and government contract. Of course, the Government therefore sets the price of the seedlings...
The tax rate on the cigars is also insane. For cigars bought in country, the sales tax accounts for as much as 75% of the total unit cost, and as they each cost about 2 weeks wages for the average Cuban, one can't help but think this is just a shameless way to grab as much foreign income as possible.
That said, the price differential for here in the UK versus there in Cuba is still enormous. For instance, I picked up a box of 25 Cohiba Esplendidos for about 200CUC, the equivalent of maybe 210 dollars. They're about £950 ($1,050) over here. In fact I bought so many that I've had to buy a new humidor to keep track. Nice problems to have!
Particularly notable variants tried were:
R&J Churchills - my go to smoke at home. Fairly tight draw, cool smoke, beautiful aroma and a mild taste. I'd say sweet, maybe caramel, accompanied with leather and spiciness which builds towards the last third for a fairly intense finish.
Cohiba Esplendidos - a new experience for me (too much money in the UK). Easy draw, cool smoke. Benefits from a lower storage humidity apparently - 63-65%. The taste is earthier, with herbal and woody tones. Really very very pleasant. Despite the intense flavour, at no point does it become overpowering, and the experience is surprisingly consistent throughtout the smoke.
Trinidad Coloniales - another new one to me. Honestly, I found this a touch hard going. Very very earthy, some coffee and barnyard type aromas and a marked mustiness. A touch astringent on the final third as well. Complex and powerful for sure, but not for me. Lit and drew perfectly though, and considering the sheer chunkiness of it, a lovely even burn throughout.
Partagas Serie P No. 2 - One that's been on my list for a while and one that did not disappoint. Beautiful spicy woody notes to start followed by a distinct earthiness and some chocolate hints towards the end. Excellent, but I can't help but think that a year or so aging might have improved it further.