FINALLY!!!

[John Wasmuth]

Geez that’s crazy expensive. A lot of times when just sporterizing 98’s I’ll just leave the issue trigger and just replace the flag safety with a $22.00 low profile safety and be done with it

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Yes Timney M98 triggers fit the Zastava, for side safeties since the flag is gone they drill the hole to make take down a world easier than fumbling around trying to pull the cocking piece back far enough to put a dime between the shroud and the cocking piece.

@John Wasmuth
Put the rifle on safe, gently close the bolt and put a dime between the cocking head and the body then unscrew. No pulling needed .
Reassembly
Screw firing pin assembly back in re insert bolt and remove dime. Done .
Bob

 

[John Wasmuth]

I mentioned the dime trick earlier in the thread, this was a neat gadget that even had the Mauser logo on it. Although it was interesting I don’t think I ever used to opting for the dime trick instead. I have no idea what ever became of it.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

@John Wasmuth
Put the rifle on safe, gently close the bolt and put a dime between the cocking head and the body then unscrew. No pulling needed .
Reassembly
Screw firing pin assembly back in re insert bolt and remove dime. Done .
Bob

Bob, if Mauser 98 is in safe position, the bolt SHOULD be in locked position. Wait ... you must mean position two with flag straight up? Then bolt can be opened. I'll have to try that trick with Model 70 style safety and shroud. It still has slotted military Mauser cocking piece. I wondered what that notch was for.

I'm missing something in instructions. I'll go on line and look for a demonstration.

 

[John Wasmuth]

Bob, if Mauser 98 is in safe position, the bolt SHOULD be in locked position. Wait ... you must mean position two with flag straight up? Then bolt can be opened. I'll have to try that trick with Model 70 style safety and shroud. It still has slotted military Mauser cocking piece. I wondered what that notch was for.

The Notch is where the tool I had fit on one side of the jaw, the other side was longer and beveled to slide on the left side of the coming piece. You placed the tool in its right position and slightly pulled, then you could turn the shroud in its proper position . You had to be careful as to not turn the cocking piece or you’d definitely know you goofed up. Lol

 

[shootist~]

Unknown if it would work in this case, but a 2 foot loop of Para cord works for pulling apart some bolts.

Step on one end, snag the bolt on the other end, and pull to compress the spring.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Bob, if Mauser 98 is in safe position, the bolt SHOULD be in locked position. Wait ... you must mean position two with flag straight up? Then bolt can be opened. I'll have to try that trick with Model 70 style safety and shroud. It still has slotted military Mauser cocking piece. I wondered what that notch was for.

I'm missing something in instructions. I'll go on line and look for a demonstration.

@Ontario Hunter
The slot on the Mauser cocking piece was if you had a misfire you could use the base of the cartridge to recock it.
Bob

 

[Ontario Hunter]

@Ontario Hunter
The slot on the Mauser cocking piece was if you had a misfire you could use the base of the cartridge to recock it.
Bob

Ah! Use the cartridge rim rather than recock it by lifting the bolt and risk having a hangfire blow the gun open in the shooter's face. So, you're dime method requires first removing the bolt in safe position two (flag straight up), then releasing to fire position while jamming the cocking piece with a dime. I think I understand now. Thanks. I was confused when you said close the bolt which implies bolt is still in the gun.

 

[sgt_zim]

Question for OP. Was the stock that cracked from Zastava or did someone build a rifle using a Zastafa action on aftermarket stock? I am surprised a gun of such a heavy recoil caliber would be built without crossbolts, either external or internal. The used stock I just restored for my 404 also had a similar crack between the mag box and trigger well. Also no crossbolts. Also obviously once housed a heavy hitter action. Rear pillar was missing. I'm surprised the stock didn't shatter. I added two Winchester style crossbolts after significantly modifying them. In their original form I felt they required removing too much wood, especially in that thin area ahead of the trigger.
View attachment 601984
Before
View attachment 601985
After

I also reinforced the wrist by installing a 3/16" stainless rod. Here is the jig set up with extra-long drill.
View attachment 601986
And the finished project.
View attachment 601987

It was the OEM Turkish walnut

 

[sgt_zim]

@sgt_zim
It shouldn't take any strength to dis assemble and put bake together. Should be a little button underneath to unlock or in some cases you can use a dime to undo it if you know the tricks. You should be able to undo it with 2 fingers.
Bob

Bob, a page or 2 back I posted a pic of the relevant part of the bolt assembly. Zastava just does it a little differently than classic Mauser style. I watched a few videos on Mauser bolt break down to make sure I hadn't lost my mind, but it's just different. Zastava does have the same little spring-loaded locking pin which needs to be depressed to be able to rotate the firing pin, but after that, things get different because Zastava doesn't have a flag safety.

The notch shown at 14:20 in that video doesn't exist on Zastava bolt.

Plus, I have the added disability of having to watch other people do it with the bolt set up for the wrong side of the gun.

Anyway, I do have you to thank for getting me to figure out what the problem is WRT how far the firing pin stuck out when in "fired" position.

Frustratingly for me, I'm the "fix the gun guy" in my group. My body of knowledge is far more vast than my group, but I'm a wan shadow relative to this group here, and greatly appreciate the multiple lifetimes of experience of the guys here.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

It was the OEM Turkish walnut

Wow. And no crossbolts. Have to wonder what they were thinking. If you add crossbolts and plenty of bedding material around the area of the crack, I'm sure that stock will hold up. Can you put up a photo of the whole gun? I'd be interested to see how the profile compares to mine.

Drilling the stock to install my crossbolts required precision work. I made a jig especially for the job. Helped to have a Shopsmith multitool with adjustable table.

I watched Potterfield's video on drilling the hole for wrist reinforcement rod and decided his method had too much margin for error so I built a jig to hold steady the extra long and thin drill bit. Here it is ready to attach the hand drill.

If you don't have crossbolts on that stock, I strongly suggest you have them installed. Internal crossbolts may be something you could attempt. They work well enough. Roy Weatherby came up with the concept and we all know what level of recoil those guns dish out! Google for videos.

 

[DLSJR]

Noooo, don’t go ! You’ll end up as an addict… Just like me.

It’s such a strong, but sweet, addiction.

 

[sgt_zim]

Firing pin was definitely the issue.

GRT is way overstating pressure/MV

Left is predicted MV, right is actual for 258 gr hammers

 

[shootist~]

Those 9.3x62 MV differences Vs GRT projected, are even worse than what I get with QuickLoad. And my 9.3x62 data @~100fps, is off a good bit more than anything else tested.

 

[sgt_zim]

For those interested in the load data

Zastava M70 9.3x62
Bullet: Shock Hammer 258 gr
Powder: 2000MR, starting at 58 gr, moving up in half grain increments to 62.5
COAL: 3.30". I measured the old fashioned way (with a wooden dowel) and with my Hornady COAL measuring tool, and the both showed me at 3.38" OAL where the ogive was in contact with the lands. I have plenty of wiggle room to go up on COAL.
Primers: CCI LR
Chrony: MagnetoSpeed

MVs from 2382 up to 2503, every half grain of powder moved the MV up by 20 - 25 fps
Absolutely zero signs of pressure, even at 62.5 gr. No sticky extractions, no flattened primers, nothing but getting to some impressive recoil

There ended up being about 200 fps difference in MV between measured and predicted. I'm not terribly surprised given the lower pressure and light engraving Hammer bullets are known for.

I may do another 10 shot ladder and move the COAL out to 3.34" so I can increase the powder. At 3.30" and 62.5 gr of 2000MR, I was on the cusp of having a compressed load. Another half grain I think would have been a compressed load. I'd really rather a 258 gr bullet be a bit closer to 2600 fps than 2500 fps.

****************************************************
Bullet: SAF 286 gr
Powder: 2000MR
Primers: CCI LR
COAL: 3.32"
Again, a 10 shot ladder starting at 58.0 and moving to 62.5 in half grain increments. No signs of overpressure, brass extracted easily at all load levels, no flattened primers, etc.

MV at 58 gr was 2317, and an average increase in MV of 15 - 25 fps for each half grain, up to 2475 fps at 62.5. The delta between predicted by GRT and measured with my MagnetoSpeed was around 80 fps.

The OAL I measured the old-fashioned way and with the Hornady tool were both in agreement again, 3.45". No, that wasn't a type-o, it was 3.45". Obviously there's plenty of wiggle room here to play with COAL as well, but honestly, a 286 gr SAF in the upper 2400s is plenty fast enough, plenty enough recoil, for my tastes.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

For those interested in the load data

Zastava M70 9.3x62
Bullet: Shock Hammer 258 gr
Powder: 2000MR, starting at 58 gr, moving up in half grain increments to 62.5
COAL: 3.30". I measured the old fashioned way (with a wooden dowel) and with my Hornady COAL measuring tool, and the both showed me at 3.38" OAL where the ogive was in contact with the lands. I have plenty of wiggle room to go up on COAL.
Primers: CCI LR
Chrony: MagnetoSpeed

MVs from 2382 up to 2503, every half grain of powder moved the MV up by 20 - 25 fps
Absolutely zero signs of pressure, even at 62.5 gr. No sticky extractions, no flattened primers, nothing but getting to some impressive recoil

There ended up being about 200 fps difference in MV between measured and predicted. I'm not terribly surprised given the lower pressure and light engraving Hammer bullets are known for.

I may do another 10 shot ladder and move the COAL out to 3.34" so I can increase the powder. At 3.30" and 62.5 gr of 2000MR, I was on the cusp of having a compressed load. Another half grain I think would have been a compressed load. I'd really rather a 258 gr bullet be a bit closer to 2600 fps than 2500 fps.

****************************************************
Bullet: SAF 286 gr
Powder: 2000MR
Primers: CCI LR
COAL: 3.32"
Again, a 10 shot ladder starting at 58.0 and moving to 62.5 in half grain increments. No signs of overpressure, brass extracted easily at all load levels, no flattened primers, etc.

MV at 58 gr was 2317, and an average increase in MV of 15 - 25 fps for each half grain, up to 2475 fps at 62.5. The delta between predicted by GRT and measured with my MagnetoSpeed was around 80 fps.

The OAL I measured the old-fashioned way and with the Hornady tool were both in agreement again, 3.45". No, that wasn't a type-o, it was 3.45". Obviously there's plenty of wiggle room here to play with COAL as well, but honestly, a 286 gr SAF in the upper 2400s is plenty fast enough, plenty enough recoil, for my tastes.

Do you have similar load workup for your 404J? I would be interested in that.

 

[sgt_zim]

Do you have similar load workup for your 404J? I would be interested in that.

I haven't bought any Hammers for it, but I may. Honestly, I have a pretty good load with Hornady bonded DGX at about 2240 fps. I know there are lots of guys here who use the "magic load" for 404J and are getting 2400 fps, give or take a little.

 

[shootist~]

My 9.3 300 gr AFs at 2,300 fps were all the recoil I wanted with the 9.25 Lb CZ. Finally got confident enough to just Zero from the sticks, which made a big difference, recoil wise.

FWIW, I used the 300s on my buff. The going away shot that hit him behind the ear knocked him out, but did not penetrate the skull.

 

[Hyde Hunter]

I would seat those Hammers out further and keep going on powder till you the 2500 fps you want, you won't notice the recoil when the time comes

 

[sgt_zim]

I would seat those Hammers out further and keep going on powder till you the 2500 fps you want, you won't notice the recoil when the time comes

I have 2500, I want 2600.

If I can get to 2600, I'll send what I've got to muledeer, I'm sure he'd be interested.