FINALLY!!!

[Ontario Hunter]

I talked to them a few months back. They have a trigger that'll work with the safety I have.

Is the trigger now in it not adjustable? I'm thinking you may be able to fix what you have.

 

[John Wasmuth]

Yes Timney M98 triggers fit the Zastava, for side safeties since the flag is gone they drill the hole to make take down a world easier than fumbling around trying to pull the cocking piece back far enough to put a dime between the shroud and the cocking piece.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

That's

View attachment 601955

Not the safety. That's the cocking piece. It will be the same no matter what trigger or safety he selects. Changing to Timney trigger with a flag/wing/Model 70 style safety MIGHT require modification to sear on cocking piece but if he's already got a trigger block style safety (on the trigger), a Timney Deluxe should drop in easily. Should not require any modification to sear.

Edit: I say "should not" but as I have learned, not all 98 Mausers are created equal. If the bolt does not close after Timney is installed, and I imagine even with Deluxe style this could be a possibility, then the sear needs to be modified. I can do it but would advise anyone who is not mechanically inclined to take it to gunsmith. My advice to OP if he cannot adjust the trigger in the action now, he can order a Timney Deluxe and try installing it himself. The stock should be inletted to fit the new side safety. If it does drop in, fine. Then close the bolt and see if the safety works. If the bolt won't close or safety is not free, then go back to what he had and wait for gunsmith to make adjustments to stock and/or sear as needed. He's only spent $150. I doubt the smith would charge him a hundred bucks to make it fit.

 

[sgt_zim]

Is the trigger now in it not adjustable? I'm thinking you may be able to fix what you have.

I honestly don't know. I'm not sure adjusting the weight is going to do anything about the awful take up, though.

It certainly doesn't have the recoil of my 404J, but it's way more recoil than anything else I shoot other than the 404J and the 1895GBL.

The break on my 404J's trigger is so clean and crisp, I find it difficult to anticipate recoil, so to me, it's actually a bit easier to shoot than my 9.3

 

[John Wasmuth]

That's

Not the safety. That's the cocking piece. It will be the same no matter what trigger or safety he selects. Changing to Timney trigger with a flag/wing/Model 70 style safety MIGHT require modification to sear on cocking piece but if he's already got a trigger block style safety (on the trigger), a Timney Deluxe should drop in easily. Should not require any modification to sear.

Look at the exploded view of the object to the left of the shroud. That is the cocking piece. Note that there is a circle on the lower bar of the cocking piece. That circle is where the hole is on the cocking piece. The newer Lk70 Zastava rifle comes with with a double set trigger or a Timney style side safety.

 

[John Wasmuth]

I honestly don't know. I'm not sure adjusting the weight is going to do anything about the awful take up, though.

It certainly doesn't have the recoil of my 404J, but it's way more recoil than anything else I shoot other than the 404J and the 1895GBL.

The break on my 404J's trigger is so clean and crisp, I find it difficult to anticipate recoil, so to me, it's actually a bit easier to shoot than my 9.3

If your Zastava LK70 (M98 Mauser) is a newer model your trigger should be adjustable for creep, travel, and weight. Somewhere I have the instructions. I’ll try and post it.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Look at the exploded view of the object to the left of the shroud. That is the cocking piece. Note that there is a circle on the lower bar of the cocking piece. That circle is where the hole is on the cocking piece. The newer Lk70 Zastava rifle comes with with a double set trigger or a Timney style side safety.

I can't see it on my phone. I'll look at it on computer. Thanks!

 

[John Wasmuth]

I can't see it on my phone. I'll look at it on computer. Thanks!

Ok, on my 1973 model lk70 the trigger is a modified military style trigger that’s had a side safety mechanism added to the trigger plate. On my 2007 it has the Timney style with side safety. Zastava has been building M98 Mausers since 1924 I believe. Sadly from what I’m told they will no longer be producing these rifles.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I could never understand the attraction for "2-stage" military triggers in Mausers and Springfield. Some guys think they are the cat's meow. This would undoubtedly be the "take up" OP is referring to. My Springfield had a set screw adjustment to take up the first stage but then the sear was sloppy. Take up all of the first stage, drop the gun hard, and the trigger jumped the sear. I tossed that setup and installed a Timney trigger. I seem to recall installation required trimming the striker sear (Springfield does not have cocking piece - sear is on the striker).

If OP adjusts takeup and/or trigger pull weight, he MUST perform the drop test after adjustment. Cock the rifle on empty chamber (of course!), then thump the butt hard on the floor (preferably concrete). If the trigger jumps the sear and striker releases, he needs to readjust. Usually, adding some pull weight should correct the issue. DO NOT TAKE RIFLE INTO FIELD HUNTING IF IT FAILS THE DROP TEST! NEVER! Range rifles are a different critter altogether. Range rifle should never be in a situation where it can be dropped accidentally. Any time loaded it should always be pointed safely downrange.

 

[John Wasmuth]

Timneys always been my go to for Mauser triggers. Easy to install, easy to adjust. And inexpensive enough.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Question for OP. Was the stock that cracked from Zastava or did someone build a rifle using a Zastafa action on aftermarket stock? I am surprised a gun of such a heavy recoil caliber would be built without crossbolts, either external or internal. The used stock I just restored for my 404 also had a similar crack between the mag box and trigger well. Also no crossbolts. Also obviously once housed a heavy hitter action. Rear pillar was missing. I'm surprised the stock didn't shatter. I added two Winchester style crossbolts after significantly modifying them. In their original form I felt they required removing too much wood, especially in that thin area ahead of the trigger.

Before

After

I also reinforced the wrist by installing a 3/16" stainless rod. Here is the jig set up with extra-long drill.

And the finished project.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Protrusion looks fine now. Unfortunately, I did not pay attention to what it looked like in the fired position when I first disassembled. I'll go back to the range in the morning and see if this was actually the problem.

These are CCI LR primers, I've probably fired 500 of the primers out of this brick, this is the first issue I've had with not firing.

The spring is definitely not too soft. Considering I don't have a proper workbench, took some real manly grip strength to disassemble and reassemble.

I only have a neck sizing die for my 9.3x62, so I'm pretty sure the shoulder wasn't bumped back.

We will see what's what in the morning.

I'll see if I can fire what I have, but I'll put a couple CCI primers in the PPU brass and bring that with me to the range.

@sgt_zim
It shouldn't take any strength to dis assemble and put bake together. Should be a little button underneath to unlock or in some cases you can use a dime to undo it if you know the tricks. You should be able to undo it with 2 fingers.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Timneys always been my go to for Mauser triggers. Easy to install, easy to adjust. And inexpensive enough.

@John Wasmuth
Maybe cheap in the USA but in Australia we'll over the 200 dollar mark.
Bob

 

[Ontario Hunter]

@sgt_zim
It shouldn't take any strength to dis assemble and put bake together. Should be a little button underneath to unlock or in some cases you can use a dime to undo it if you know the tricks. You should be able to undo it with 2 fingers.
Bob

Bob, he's already removed the firing pin/striker for photo. The striker and spring were very clean. Hopefully he cleaned the striker chamber before reassembly. I use last length of rifle cleaning rod with appropriate size wire brush and solvent. Seem to remember using a 38 caliber brush? Put the other end of the rod in power drill, push brush end into striker chamber, and let er rip.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

@John Wasmuth
Maybe cheap in the USA but in Australia we'll over the 200 dollar mark.
Bob

$150 US here. Not sure what that amounts to in Australian dollars.

 

[John Wasmuth]

On a good day you can get 302’s for around $134.00 with free shipping.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

IDK about "very" different, but it is different.

The firing pin assembly is under heavy tension once the first couple of threads have a bite. I don't know what that piece is called on the bottom of the firing pin assembly, but using a large screw driver, I have to push it all the way up to the top of the bolt shroud and turn it 90º to I can disassemble the whole thing.

View attachment 601922

@sgt_zim
Out the rifle on safe, gently close the bolt, insert a dime between the cocking piece and body. With draw the bolt and unscrew. Easy as.
An old trick
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

So now another question.

I really want to put a Timney on this rifle. Go with what I've got considering I'm now only 16 weeks out?

It's a good shooter, but the trigger really does leave quite a bit to be desired.

@sgt_zim
I have Timney fitted to both my Enfields set at 2# nice triggers. Two minutes to install.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Timney Deluxe trigger can be had for $150 max and he can install it himself. If a gunsmith charged him fifty bucks to do installation, the guy is a crook.

@Ontario Hunter
Dang a five year old could install a Timney. May not be able to adjust it but could install it.
Bob

 

[John Wasmuth]

Once upon a time I had a tool built by Mauser that looked something like a pair of pliers. You pinched the cocking piece in it and released your grip on it. It was used to fix bolt shroud problems caused by not properly taking down the bolt. At least that’s what the old German gun smith I got it from explained.