FINALLY!!!

[Ontario Hunter]

There was a high spot on the extractor arm (not sure what that piece is called) that I had him polish down.

No obvious difference in shoulder. I had recently annealed the twice fired brass, so the discoloration from that makes it a little difficult to tell.

Okay. He did change the shape of the extractor "arm". But I STRONGLY suspect he did not "polish" it but rather he bent it. The shape of it determines the spring tension of the claw against the rim and rim pressure against the bolt face. I had to readjust the extractor tension bar on my 404J bolt when I built it from 8mm Brno vz.24. It was also significantly bowed and tension was so much that I couldn't remove the extractor without prying it off. Almost impossible to put it back on the bolt without vicegrips. Turns out that tension was also impeding snap over. Extractor was pushing the soft shouldered 404 cases ahead into the chamber. Also, that tightly sprung extractor was making for rough pickup out of magazine.

Remove the bolt. Slip a loaded cartridge under the claw on the bolt face. If you hold the bolt horizontal, the loaded cartridge should just barely remain held in place on the bolt face. If it falls out easily, then something is wrong. This is per Duane Weibe.

 

[sgt_zim]

@sgt_zim
A very easy check is when the bolt is assembled take it out of the action and decock the bolt.
Once done check the firing pin protrusion is enough. If it is all is good the problem is elsewhere
If firing pin protrusion isn't correct get it rectified.
Bob

Something that just occurred to me.

When I re-assembled the bolt, I came up one turn too short. When in fired position, the firing pin barely protruded. So dis-assembled/re-assembled making sure I got the last turn down. I reckon if I short-stroked it on re-assembly the smith may have as well.

This is certainly a Mauser bolt, but it is a little different in disassembly/reassembly than either a 98 or a 96. Zastava put their own twist on things, apparently. I can easily see anyone not turn the firing pin assembly to the stop, especially if they're used to the easy way standard LR Mausers disassemble.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Something that just occurred to me.

When I re-assembled the bolt, I came up one turn too short. When in fired position, the firing pin barely protruded. So dis-assembled/re-assembled making sure I got the last turn down. I reckon if I short-stroked it on re-assembly the smith may have as well.

View attachment 601921

@sgt_zim
Firing pin protrusion looks fine.
Failure to fire could be:-
Soft spring
To hard a primer
Faulty case / shoulder pushed back a bit far.
That's the usual there suspects. If it fires factory loads without issue it can only be one of the other two
Bob

 

[sgt_zim]

@sgt_zim
Firing pin protrusion looks fine.
Failure to fire could be:-
Soft spring
To hard a primer
Faulty case / shoulder pushed back a bit far.
That's the usual there suspects. If it fires factory loads without issue it can only be one of the other two
Bob

Protrusion looks fine now. Unfortunately, I did not pay attention to what it looked like in the fired position when I first disassembled. I'll go back to the range in the morning and see if this was actually the problem.

These are CCI LR primers, I've probably fired 500 of the primers out of this brick, this is the first issue I've had with not firing.

The spring is definitely not too soft. Considering I don't have a proper workbench, took some real manly grip strength to disassemble and reassemble.

I only have a neck sizing die for my 9.3x62, so I'm pretty sure the shoulder wasn't bumped back.

We will see what's what in the morning.

I'll see if I can fire what I have, but I'll put a couple CCI primers in the PPU brass and bring that with me to the range.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Something that just occurred to me.

When I re-assembled the bolt, I came up one turn too short. When in fired position, the firing pin barely protruded. So dis-assembled/re-assembled making sure I got the last turn down. I reckon if I short-stroked it on re-assembly the smith may have as well.

View attachment 601921

This is certainly a Mauser bolt, but it is a little different in disassembly/reassembly than either a 98 or a 96. Zastava put their own twist on things, apparently. I can easily see anyone not turn the firing pin assembly to the stop, especially if they're used to the easy way standard LR Mausers disassemble.

I think you have the answer. Certainly, if the bolt shroud is not screwed on all the way, that would at least affect striker/firing pin spring tension. Glad it's nothing serious.

Must be a very different configuration from 98 Mauser. I don't think my bolt could even close if the shroud isn't screwed on fully and locked in place. The sear wouldn't line up with the trough in receiver.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Try an empty case with your same primers and primers of another brand. Reading your last post, I believe you've found the problem.

 

[sgt_zim]

Try an empty case with your same primers and primers of another brand. Reading your last post, I believe you've found the problem.

Now that I think about it, I have some other loaded ammo for it that I know has worked in the past. I probably have a box each of Hornady 286 and Norma 285 loaded up.

 

[sgt_zim]

I think you have the answer. Certainly, if the bolt shroud is not screwed on all the way, that would at least affect striker/firing pin spring tension. Glad it's nothing serious.

Must be a very different configuration from 98 Mauser. I don't think my bolt could even close if the shroud isn't screwed on fully and locked in place. The sear wouldn't line up with the trough in receiver.

IDK about "very" different, but it is different.

The firing pin assembly is under heavy tension once the first couple of threads have a bite. I don't know what that piece is called on the bottom of the firing pin assembly, but using a large screw driver, I have to push it all the way up to the top of the bolt shroud and turn it 90º to I can disassemble the whole thing.

 

[sgt_zim]

Many thanks to @Hogpatrol - I just fired a CCI primer in an empty brass in my garage.

Problem solved, the shroud just wasn't turned in all the way.

 

[sgt_zim]

So now another question.

I really want to put a Timney on this rifle. Go with what I've got considering I'm now only 16 weeks out?

It's a good shooter, but the trigger really does leave quite a bit to be desired.

 

[Hogpatrol]

So now another question.

I really want to put a Timney on this rifle. Go with what I've got considering I'm now only 16 weeks out?

It's a good shooter, but the trigger really does leave quite a bit to be desired.

I would change it. A poor trigger will be a disadvantage on the sticks.
Edit: With more than a few aftermarket triggers, there may be a little stock work involved for clearance issues but nothing drastic.

 

[Hyde Hunter]

I would give them a call Monday morning and in a couple days you will have it then you can finish your load work and you will be happier with a 2-2.5 lb trigger

 

[Ontario Hunter]

So now another question.

I really want to put a Timney on this rifle. Go with what I've got considering I'm now only 16 weeks out?

It's a good shooter, but the trigger really does leave quite a bit to be desired.

Installing a Timney trigger is less complicated than changing a tire. I can see from your earlier photos (if it's still the same stock) that there's plenty of room in the trigger box. I would be surprised if it doesn't drop in with no modification. What safety setup does it presently use? I kinda thought looking at the photo that you presently have an adjustable trigger? Is the safety a flag type striker safety on bolt shroud or trigger block safety on side of receiver? Or three-position Model 70 style with side lever on bolt shroud? From many sources you can easily order a Timney trigger for either traditional shroud (for military flag style or 3-position Model 70) or a "deluxe" trigger equipped with side safety. Make sure you order the correct one. "Deluxe" in this case does NOT mean better quality. Its just a different style. Ordered today it would be to your house next week and dropped in as fast as you can pop the action off your rifle. Comes with instructions but really just looking at it I'm sure you can figure out how to install it. Comes with a little torques head wrench which is the only tool you will need. Trigger is set from factory at about 3.5 lbs which is just about right for field use.

 

[John Wasmuth]

On the cocking piece on your Zastava, there should be a hole drilled in the first lug nearest the bolt handle, this hole is drilled in the Zastava M70, M98 Mauser clone, so that the bolt can be removed in the cocked position, it replaces the flag safety in holding the cocking piece in the rearward position. It’s about the size of a finishing nail. If you don’t have that hole you could get your smith to drill one. It makes the take down and reassembly so much easier.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I should mention that your gun should have some relief between ends of tangs and stock, top and bottom. Just a small space between metal and wood. This is to prevent cracking. Do not fill with bedding. If there is no gap, make one with dremel tool or take it to a smith. Your guy should have done it if he checked the gun out. This would be for heavy recoil thumper rifles. Smaller caliber not necessary. Anything with crossbolts should have tangs rebated.

 

[HerbJohnson]

I agree with Inline6. Try to control your mind from buying new gear you don't need or will only use in Africa. Save that money for paying additional trophy fees for other animals you couldn't resist hunting, ie..." a Kudu". You , however, won't regret shooting a Kudu on this trip ever! Have a great first hunt in Africa! Congratulations!

 

[Ontario Hunter]

On the cocking piece on your Zastava, there should be a hole drilled in the first lug nearest the bolt handle, this hole is drilled in the Zastava M70, M98 Mauser clone, so that the bolt can be removed in the cocked position, it replaces the flag safety in holding the cocking piece in the rearward position. It’s about the size of a finishing nail. If you don’t have that hole you could get your smith to drill one. It makes the take down and reassembly so much easier.

So Zastava always has trigger block safety on side of receiver? I converted my flag style Mauser to Model 70 style so safety position two is used to disassemble/reassemble the bolt.

Thanks for this. I cut the striker knob off my Springfield to access an aftermarket wing safety on left side of bolt shroud. Without that knurled knob, taking the bolt apart and reassembly is a pain. I will explore drilling a hole for a keeper nail.

 

[sgt_zim]

I would give them a call Monday morning and in a couple days you will have it then you can finish your load work and you will be happier with a 2-2.5 lb trigger

I talked to them a few months back. They have a trigger that'll work with the safety I have.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I agree with Inline6. Try to control your mind from buying new gear you don't need or will only use in Africa. Save that money for paying additional trophy fees for other animals you couldn't resist hunting, ie..." a Kudu". You , however, won't regret shooting a Kudu on this trip ever! Have a great first hunt in Africa! Congratulations!

Timney Deluxe trigger can be had for $150 max and he can install it himself. If a gunsmith charged him fifty bucks to do installation, the guy is a crook.

 

[John Wasmuth]

So Zastava always has trigger block safety on side of receiver? I converted my flag style Mauser to Model 70 style so safety position two is used to disassemble/reassemble the bolt.

Thanks for this. I cut the striker knob off my Springfield to access an aftermarket wing safety on left side of bolt shroud. Without that knurled knob, taking the bolt apart and reassembly is a pain. I will explore drilling a hole for a keeper nail.