Day 10 Eland and Tea Leaves
We left the lodge early as we had done the day before for the long drive to Eland country. We packed breakfast to go and were on the road by 5:15. The 2 hour ride was cold and bumpy as usual, as we wound around the two track roads that lace the national park I was becoming acutely aware that my time in Nyakasanga was coming to a close. Everything that begins must end, and so it would be with my first safari. With only a few days left I had come a long way, I felt, in the 10 days we had hunted. I had learned enough of the language to somewhat communicate with Sunnboy and Zvito. Micheal seemed to always find my attempts at Shona comical. I had learned the names of most of the animals and enough words and short phrases to get my meaning across. They of course spoke some English, but using the local language was fun to me, and I felt it was appropriate to show my appreciation of their hard work by trying to use their language. I am, after all, one of those, "if you are gonna come to America you better learn to speak English" kind of guys. So, what's good for the goose is good for the gander. If I was gonna go to Zimbabwe then I suppose I had better learn some Shona, or at least make an attempt at it.
We arrived in the area around 7:15 and started working the roads looking for the Eland or tracks if we could find them. It was around 07:30 when we stopped at a small pan and checked for tracks. There were, sure enough, tracks from the night before, and a bit of eland dung that looked semi fresh. There was great discussion now between York and the crew as to whether or not the tracks were fresh enough to follow, the crew leaning towards the Eland possibly being long gone and York believing that they may not have traveled far, after much parlay we decided to follow them. The tracks belonged to three bulls, or so I was informed, it just looked like a miniature buffalo track to me. The tracks of the three bulls crossed the road and meandered into the Jess. It wasn't long now before we came upon some fresher dung and a spot where one of the bulls had urinated. York put his hand in the patch of damp grass and turned to me with a very "I told them so" grin. "They're not far," he whispered. On we went in what seemed like an eternal slow motion zigzag, with Zvito and York picking out the tracks and always scratching a line behind them, which allowed me to then investigate whatever tea leaves they had been reading that told them the whereabouts and intentions of our quarry. They pointed out the freshly broken branches where the eland would take the branches between their horns and break them to mame easier access to the tender leaves at the top. York explained how they always fed into the wind so the tannins from the damaged leaves didn't spread ahead of them to warn the other trees to release tannins which impede the animals digestion. It is a defense mechanism the plants have adapted over eons. Africa is a magical place if you are interested enough to take a minute and learn about her! I am definitely no tracker, but after 10 days of following these two through the bush I had begun to learn what they were looking at, and I could even decipher a bit of the spore myself. Freshly broken branches, a handful of fresh leaves on the ground under a bush, whether or not the urine had evaporated from the grass, the degree of crust on a pile of dung, depending on if it was in the sun or the shade. These were all clues left behind for you to decipher and put together the puzzle of where this animal had gone and what he was doing.
Soon the tracks joined with a herd of cows, and they traveled with them for a bit, then the bulls split off again. Suddenly York stopped and cupped his hands behind his ears. Zvito was convinced the tracks had gone another way. There was a very grave discussion in Shona between the two and we began casting about for tracks again, then York stopped. He was convinced he had heard branches breaking in the bush ahead and to our right. Zhito picked up the track again and it appeared the track did indeed point toward where York had heard the breaking of the branches. We pushed through a small patch of very thick Jess and shortly we broke into a small clearing. York and Zhito both dropped to a full crouch instantly, followed shortly by myself and the rest of the stack. Up went the binos followed almost immediately by the shooting sticks. "There, just behind the shoulder, he is slightly quartering with his head behind that bush." I looked ahead to where York was pointing, low and behold, about 75 yards away stood a massive gray beast. I did not take a great deal of time for observation at this point, as it seemed a fairly urgent matter that I forward this packet of carefully gift wrapped lead to Mr. Eland as soon as possible but, as the large gray mass began to take shape, the first thing I did notice was the minotaur-like shoulders. What a creation nature had made, some form of a cross between a Brahma bull and a Kudu perhaps? I could not see his horns, I was not particularly concerned with it at the moment either, York had the essence of a smiling kid on christmas morning, that was enough to tell me what I needed to know! The Eland is York's favorite animal to hunt and,it is what he himself hunts when he is afforded the opportunity to enjoy a hunt on his own, if he was this excited then I suspect I had better start shooting! The giant gray bull was unaware of our presence, and I did not plan to give him a chance to get aware of it. The 416 went to the sticks, the crosshair found its mark on the bowling ball sized shoulder, and in a flash there was a 400 grain A frame screaming away like a torpedo bound for an enemy submarine. In reviewing the video, as York points out the e
Eland to me and I mount the rifle on the sticks he did not even have time to transition from pointing at the eland to completely getting his fingers in his ears before the rifle discharged. We were not messing about with this opportunity! I knew when the trigger broke that Eland's fate was sealed. There was the comforting thump of the bullet impact and the familiar reaction of an animal that is dead but has just not yet become aware of his fate. There was smiling and hand shaking all around. I told York I was certain of the point of impact and that we should find him not far from where he was standing. Off we went and it wasn't long before my predictions were confirmed. The bullet must have cut the arteries across the top of the heart, believe me the blood trail was a grizzly one! Blood was sprayed onto trees and bushes at chest height as if you had painted the surroundings with a garden hose. Unbelievably, the Eland had still made a solid 100 yard dash. When we found him he was still alive in a giant pool of blood. He was waning but still trying to move. We walked up behind him and knelt down to put the bullet on a plane with his vitals and put one between the shoulder blades to send him on without further suffering. What an animal! In the brief glimpse I had before shooting I knew he was impressive but, up close the first Eland you see in person is truly awe inspiring. His giant horns spiraled upward, his Pompadour hairdo would have made Billy Joel himself proud! The unique smell they have can not be described, that must only be known by those who have shot one I suppose. What is even more to behold is seeing the crew stuff 2000 lbs of Eland into the bed of a Toyota Land Cruiser whole! They cut, they wenched, we pulled, we pushed, there was disassembling of the seats and rearranging of tool boxes and coolers. It was an operation but, at last he was secured.
The ride out of Paradise now, was beautiful for sure as I sat in the back, all of us crammed together with the Giant Livingstone Eland. I reflected on the entire trip. York, much to my delight, was forced to drive slowly with the oversized load in the back, which allowed me to wholly enjoy the scenery. This had all transpired by 09:00 and he was loaded and we were on our way shortly before 11:00 leaving me the rest of the day to relax and look back on the trip while we made plans for the remaining two days.
We made it back to the skinning shed in an hour or so and delivered the Eland. We had lunch beside "The Mighty Zambezi", and I had a short nap while they dealt with the skinning and dividing of meat. Apparently while I had a nap the tsetse did not miss out on the opportunity to take advantage of a piece of stationary real estate that size, when I woke up I was thoroughly welted! We then proceeded back to camp to concoct a plan for the next day. Another day of fishing? Why not?