Work-up to May 2023, SA plains game

[Mtn_Infantry]

For the VAST majority of hunters the Leupold CDS system is simple and effective for any situation they will find themselves in.

For example, on my .300 WM 165 gr Federal TBT with a 200 yard zero:

300 Yards

Sea level and 90 degrees F, 6.3 inch drop .
7500 Ft and 20 degrees F 6.1 inch drop.

500 Yards

Sea level and 90 degrees F, 36.8 inch drop.
7500 Ft and 20 degrees F, 35.3 inch drop.

A difference of a quarter inch at 300, 1.5 at 500.

I get my turrets cut at 4000 ft and 40 degrees. Works great for any hunting situation I will ever find myself in.

I have decades of experience dialing in scopes calibrated in MILS, and some in MOAs. The CDS system is easier and faster which can be very important in hunting situations. Nothing is quicker and easier than ranging, then matching the number on the dial which is what you do with the CDS turret.

You just changed multiple things altitude and temperature. As altitude increases air density decreases. Reduce the temperature and air density increases. In your example you got the 1.5” difference because of the two variables having similar air densities means similar amounts of drag. Run the same calculation at 90 degrees for both (ignore differences humidity, barometric pressure, wind direction & speed) I’d bet your difference is closer to 4.5” at 500 than 1.5”.

Are you running your calculations off your rifles chronographed MV or the boxes published MV?

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

For the VAST majority of hunters the Leupold CDS system is simple and effective for any situation they will find themselves in.

For example, on my .300 WM 165 gr Federal TBT with a 200 yard zero:

300 Yards

Sea level and 90 degrees F, 6.3 inch drop .
7500 Ft and 20 degrees F 6.1 inch drop.

500 Yards

Sea level and 90 degrees F, 36.8 inch drop.
7500 Ft and 20 degrees F, 35.3 inch drop.

A difference of a quarter inch at 300, 1.5 at 500.

I get my turrets cut at 4000 ft and 40 degrees. Works great for any hunting situation I will ever find myself in.

I have decades of experience dialing in scopes calibrated in MILS, and some in MOAs. The CDS system is easier and faster which can be very important in hunting situations. Nothing is quicker and easier than ranging, then matching the number on the dial which is what you do with the CDS turret.

I will agree the CDS turret is great for the Vast majority of hunters with a few caveats.

The Vast Majority hunt the same area Year in and Year out. They don’t travel to other areas od the country or even other countries. Conditions are genera similar so it’s not a huge impact. Most don’t see huge elevation and temperature swings.

I also think it’s good enough for most Hunters as it’s quick compensation for their lack of riflemanship and get them good enough out to 300-400 yards, which for many is further than they can likely shoot while hunting whitetail.

If anyone hunts a variety of states or countries regularly, they’re better off dialing. If you need to adjust your cut turrets or dial you’ve got a bit of time because of the distance. If time were an issue utilize reticle holds for windage and elevation after ranging and let her fly.

 

[Philip Glass]

Figured I would run this by the forum to see where I am at in preparation.

Rifle - 300WM Browning X-Bolt
Optic - Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44

I completed break-in last month on the gun. Pretty much mind-numbing 20 rds, clean/shoot/clean/shoot etc. This morning I went out and actually got down to the real zero of the rifle. Took about 6-7 shots initially, but it seems like by the end I managed the 7 shot group @ 100 yds in about 1-1.5". Number 7 shot, 6 o clock low, was me compensating for the 1-1.5" high group @ 100 yds. My plan next week is to zero at 200 yds. Might need a click or two left on windage but the 1-1.5" high elevation should be close on 200.

- 200 yds next week
- Order BDS custom dial
- Test with Barnes 180gr TTSX
- Final workup will be 50-100-200 yds off sticks for real preparation

I know for a lot of you guys this is probably baby steps but I just want to make sure I am on the right track here. Thanks so much.
View attachment 514423View attachment 514424View attachment 514425

Perfect caliber and bullet! Same as me.

 

[Philip Glass]

This is invaluable info and I'm glad I now understand. It seems like it's best to only touch on 200 yds for now and worry more about getting good, quickly, at 50-100 yds off the sticks.

Be ready for anything. Others experience can be vastly different than yours. You need to be able to hit your target off sticks at 300 yards. If you can do that all else will fall into place. Typically you can use the CDS if the altitude where you are hunting is similar to yours at home. I will have some clients each year with one.

 

[Firebird]

I’ve used the cds system on multiple trips and multiple rifles. I have them built for the “averages” in the area we hunt as supplied by the ph. Africa seems to have far Less variation than the hunting I do around my home. We have been very successful with this system in South Africa. The ph checks the animal with his rangefinding binos, tells me the distance and I do the rest BUT-it is africa and there really isn’t a need for long distance shooting!
If your turret is sighted for 200 yards and there isn’t time to screw around with the dial, you can always figure holdover or windage in your head and do it the the original way.
I have no military training but I do get to spend time most days at a range and shooting off sticks has become second nature.
Shooting a trophy animal beyond 400 yards in africa seems like cheating yourself. . .

 

[Deepfork]

You just changed multiple things altitude and temperature. As altitude increases air density decreases. Reduce the temperature and air density increases. In your example you got the 1.5” difference because of the two variables having similar air densities means similar amounts of drag. Run the same calculation at 90 degrees for both (ignore differences humidity, barometric pressure, wind direction & speed) I’d bet your difference is closer to 4.5” at 500 than 1.5”.

Are you running your calculations off your rifles chronographed MV or the boxes published MV?

Chronographed Velocities....I wondered if I would get called out on my offsetting variables! With my load it would be about a 3.5 inch difference at 500...starting to become significant.

I agree with all you are saying. I just think for the vast majority extreme conditions and distance don't come into play. A CDS scope is fast and almost dummy proof which is what I want (need) these days.

 

[Hunt anything]

Sounds like you’re pretty much ready, my pre hunt regiment is 6 weeks before I leave I get my load and rifle dialed in off of the bench. Once dialed in I stay away from the bench, I shoot in my backyard and realize not everyone can so I shoot 3 or 4 rounds off sticks and other hunting positions a day at hunting ranges ( 10 to 300 yards) I then break out the .22 and shoot a lot in any position I can think of, sticks, off-hand, prone, kneeling ,crouching and sitting. Mostly working on my trigger discipline and breathing. I usually walk briskly for about 15 minutes to get my heart rate up before shooting with my main rifle. A day or two before leaving I clean my rifle go out and fire a couple of fouling shots, fire a couple off of the bench to check zero and go and enjoy.

 

[YancyW]

Have fun in the preparation, that is part of the experience, but don't stress about it all. I have never dialed a single time for a shot in Africa, I can't imagine that is going to happen. People obsess about this stuff, just practice off sticks and have a great time.

 

[HookMeUpII]

You need to be aware on your custom turret is gonna be cut for a specific altitude, and temperature. There are a ton of variables the turret doesn’t account for and the variables it tries to account for are marginal at best. Learning how to dial is a much truer and accurate plan. Just wanted you to be aware so you don’t hamstring yourself to a specific place and condition set thinking you’ll be golden everywhere. They’re great for the local area and conditions you see, but if you’re traveling to other areas or hiking in the mountains it’s not the bees knees their marketing people have you believing.

I will not have the CDS in time. I spoke to Leupold direct. Their folks are insanely knowledgeable. Between them and Browning, every time I call I get someone who is retired military and/or has a ton of serious hunting experience. There is a "cushion" in what's baked into the dial, according to them. I believe it's 40F +/- for ambient temp and I want to say 2000' +/- for elevation. This was from their mouth, not mine, and I don't have my notes in front of me. I'm OCD and take notes on everything. With that being said, they want an accurate muzzle velocity. The options are chrono or manual calc. I am going to go with the manual calc when the time comes. Difference in drop between 100 and 300 yds, ballistic calculator, and it gets pretty close.

I will get the CDS but for now, I think it's taking on more than I should. Rifle is zeroed at 100 yds, 200 yds it might be a hair lower but still dead animal. 300 yds, well, if I feel I can make that shot looks like the holdover might need to be a touch higher, maybe 7-8" based on specs.

 

[HookMeUpII]

I would zero at 200. 1/2 my shots on our hunt in SA last year were between 200 and a little over 300 yards. 300 yards with a 200 yard zero is a 8-9 inch hold over.

I was going to zero at 200 but my outfitter said "Zero your rifle for 100." I'm just trying to follow exactly what he says. I don't know the terrain but supposedly, it is very thick where we are going. Thankfully 300WM shoots pretty flat. Should be a dead animal with nearly the same hold over at 100 and 200.

This was from the bench. I might need to go a little lower at 100 but I could just leave it where it is and it's slightly high at 100, slightly low at 200. So almost like a 150 yd zero.

 

[HookMeUpII]

A day or two before leaving I clean my rifle go out and fire a couple of fouling shots, fire a couple off of the bench to check zero and go and enjoy.

This is immensely helpful. I have been going back and forth on this. I will probably throw another 20-30 down range in the next weeks leading up. I'll probably bring my cleaning kit with me to the last range visit. Clean, 2-3 fouling shots, call it a day and in the case she goes for her flight to RSA.

Backyard shooting...what a dream. I am at least fortunate to have a competitive range with distances up to 300 in NJ...of all places. Only 15 min away.

 

[Inline6]

I will not have the CDS in time. I spoke to Leupold direct. Their folks are insanely knowledgeable. Between them and Browning, every time I call I get someone who is retired military and/or has a ton of serious hunting experience. There is a "cushion" in what's baked into the dial, according to them. I believe it's 40F +/- for ambient temp and I want to say 2000' +/- for elevation. This was from their mouth, not mine, and I don't have my notes in front of me. I'm OCD and take notes on everything. With that being said, they want an accurate muzzle velocity. The options are chrono or manual calc. I am going to go with the manual calc when the time comes. Difference in drop between 100 and 300 yds, ballistic calculator, and it gets pretty close.

I will get the CDS but for now, I think it's taking on more than I should. Rifle is zeroed at 100 yds, 200 yds it might be a hair lower but still dead animal. 300 yds, well, if I feel I can make that shot looks like the holdover might need to be a touch higher, maybe 7-8" based on specs.

No offense, looking at your target your are not going to get the information you need. You are hardly shooting moa (nothing wrong with that we all have to start somewhere). This is where the issues will come into play. Your shot dispersion is going tonbe so wide you will not have accurate data period. Buy a Magneto speed lite (160ish) and get good hard data.

Or sight it in 2.5" high at 100 and rock on. You should be fine out to 250 with doing nothing but holding where you want the bullet to go. Most of your shots will be between 50-250.

 

[Inline6]

The only other advice I have not seen mentioned, you can shoot a lot of 22 off the sticks. It is good practice to get you ready. Take a few shots with your hunting rifle. Then you can practice more with the 22.

 

[HookMeUpII]

No offense, looking at your target your are not going to get the information you need. You are hardly shooting moa (nothing wrong with that we all have to start somewhere). This is where the issues will come into play. Your shot dispersion is going tonbe so wide you will not have accurate data period. Buy a Magneto speed lite (160ish) and get good hard data.

Or sight it in 2.5" high at 100 and rock on. You should be fine out to 250 with doing nothing but holding where you want the bullet to go. Most of your shots will be between 50-250.

I regret the sled I purchased. It's the Lead Sled Solo. I'm actually better off a bag rest. The solo walks like a bastard. The mid point arm is really NOT a good design. The arm even with the proper bolt tension pivots side to side and the least bit of pressure up and down on the pivot arm is problematic. I am probably going to sell if for cheap and pony up for the DFT 2 or the Lead Sled 3. Not really a thing you want to have happen zeroing a rifle but for now at least I'm in the realm of where I need to be.

There is quite a bit of competitive shooting at this range. I got a great deal of insight last visit from a Griffin & Howe employee who was working on a custom 300WM target setup. He actually has a chrono for me to borrow.

Sticks I am decent. At 50-150 I am in the "dead animal" group. I am keeping this all in mind for my expectations when I go. I am not going to cowboy it and take a 300 yd shot from the sticks. That is way above my skill at this point. There are phenomenal shooters on here. I am not one of them. I think a big part of this trip for me is being realistic with myself on what I can, and cannot, do.

Prone, off a rest on a truck, etc., I have a decent level of confidence at 300 but when the heart starts going, breathing rate goes up, I might make a call NOT to take it.

 

[Hunt anything]

If your good and comfortable off of the sticks at 150 yards tell your PH, he will work you into that and then a little closer. They want you to be honest on your ability. Of course the sight in session when you arrive is more for them to evaluate your skill and more importantly your safety with a rifle than to check the rifle.

 

[BourbonTrail]

+1 On the advice to tell your PH with your “comfortable” range, and they will work to get you in that window. I had a 416 Rem, so I didn’t have 300 yards as an option (practically). My PH made sure we got within range. Longest shot was 140yards on a springbok.

 

[Inline6]

I regret the sled I purchased. It's the Lead Sled Solo. I'm actually better off a bag rest. The solo walks like a bastard. The mid point arm is really NOT a good design. The arm even with the proper bolt tension pivots side to side and the least bit of pressure up and down on the pivot arm is problematic. I am probably going to sell if for cheap and pony up for the DFT 2 or the Lead Sled 3. Not really a thing you want to have happen zeroing a rifle but for now at least I'm in the realm of where I need to be.

There is quite a bit of competitive shooting at this range. I got a great deal of insight last visit from a Griffin & Howe employee who was working on a custom 300WM target setup. He actually has a chrono for me to borrow.

Sticks I am decent. At 50-150 I am in the "dead animal" group. I am keeping this all in mind for my expectations when I go. I am not going to cowboy it and take a 300 yd shot from the sticks. That is way above my skill at this point. There are phenomenal shooters on here. I am not one of them. I think a big part of this trip for me is being realistic with myself on what I can, and cannot, do.

Prone, off a rest on a truck, etc., I have a decent level of confidence at 300 but when the heart starts going, breathing rate goes up, I might make a call NOT to take it.

As long as you get good velocities that are accurate you will be fine.

A rest is a good thing in the fact you can see what the capabilities of your rifle are. You seem to be going at this the right way. Once you get a good hard zero, get out of the rest. You won't have it in the field. What you will have is the confidence that rifle will shoot to the point of aim.

Just might want to ask your PH what type of sticks he has. The 3 legs are okay, they are just no where near as stable as a 4 (like vipers). We practice on 3 legs and carried them with us. When the PH showed us the viper flex, we did not use our sticks or the tripod (which is a pricey one). The Vipers worked and felt that stable. Either way you want to be as comfortable as possible shooting, so take what you know, you don't want your mind getting the best of you.

Sounds like you are good path and looking forward to reading the reports of you efforts.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

Chronographed Velocities....I wondered if I would get called out on my offsetting variables! With my load it would be about a 3.5 inch difference at 500...starting to become significant.

I agree with all you are saying. I just think for the vast majority extreme conditions and distance don't come into play. A CDS scope is fast and almost dummy proof which is what I want (need) these days.

Hahaha it was 3am and I was trying to crunch numbers in my head, didn’t know your MV so kinda just winged it with 2950. Based on your first groups I knew that MV was incorrect.
What we also skipped over is I’m betting you/your rifle is also shooting closer to 1/2” groups vs 1.5” groups off sandbags at 100yds. Factor that spread in and we’re outside the Killzone on a whitetail shooting off a bag/bench nevermind in a real hunting situation but it’ll ball park him to maybe break a shoulder, or spine him and possibly also get lucky on a vital hit.

I don’t deny CDS is quick and simple. It helps most Hunter’s get close enough. CDS turrets are cheap enough if you’re chronographing you can cut an extra turret for an upcoming hunt and it’s pretty solid out to 500 in most scenarios. IMO a CDS helps get the avg shooter to a 60-70% vital hit percentage at 300yds.

 

[HookMeUpII]

Hahaha it was 3am and I was trying to crunch numbers in my head, didn’t know your MV so kinda just winged it with 2950. Based on your first groups I knew that MV was incorrect.
What we also skipped over is I’m betting you/your rifle is also shooting closer to 1/2” groups vs 1.5” groups off sandbags at 100yds. Factor that spread in and we’re outside the Killzone on a whitetail shooting off a bag/bench nevermind in a real hunting situation but it’ll ball park him to maybe break a shoulder, or spine him and possibly also get lucky on a vital hit.

I don’t deny CDS is quick and simple. It helps most Hunter’s get close enough. CDS turrets are cheap enough if you’re chronographing you can cut an extra turret for an upcoming hunt and it’s pretty solid out to 500 in most scenarios. IMO a CDS helps get the avg shooter to a 60-70% vital hit percentage at 300yds.

The problem with the CDS is in a way how Leupold advertises it. "Dial up for shots up to 600 yds" and may have possibly stated even farther. Definitely not the case. I think it's an awesome concept but clearly not as simple as that. To your point on altitude and temp as well, they supposedly bake in a cushion. How does that cushion and the room for error multiply across distances, though? Does that margin of error multiply across farther distances? I would guess it does but I'm a novice. I suppose it's better if you have a CDS dialed into exactly where you are hunting with the current temps and muzzle velocity. Nothing against Leupold because there's a limit to how accurate everything is.

I think it's great but after really finally putting some rounds through this rifle, I wonder which is better:

Do the legwork with proper input and get the CDS?
Learn your holdovers, proper?
Or stick with the stock turret and learn your MOA/click settings?

The question then comes in of do you really even have time to dial in some instances? My outfitter basically told me "You won't have time to mess with your dial in most cases. Zero your rifle to 100 yds and know your holdovers." I suppose if you're lying prone, downwind from the animal, they have no idea you're there, and they are 300 yds away, you might have time.

I just don't really know, to be honest. That's why I'm sticking to the keeping it simple for now.

 

[Rubberhead]

@YancyW is right - the prep is a big part of the fun. Enjoy and savor every moment.

My thoughts - You should study their prices and have three lists in mind before you leave. 1) the "must have" list - it looks like yours is impala, blesbok and warthog. 2) Then you should have a "by chance" list. If you bump into a by-chance animal while hunting other species, you won't waste time trying to decided whether to shoot or not. That indecision might cost you the opportunity. Bush Pig or Baboon are perfect by-chance animal. And, finally, 3) your extended list. If you get your must haves done and still have a day or two, it'll be fun to know exactly what to go after. My person opinion is that Bush Buck are the perfect "finished early" animal. They're fairly inexpensive, difficult to hunt, beautiful and spiral horned. What's not to love.