Transitioning To A Blaser R8 - A Two Months / 500 Rounds Review

[Tra3]

He'd have been a terrible (and probably personally miserable) supply officer. Too many color-coded spreadsheets and decision matrixes.

I don't think this is hijacking the OPs thread but if it is, please shout and I'll start yet another thread on the R8.

I'm a "details" guy and am very seriously considering a Blaser. I was sold on the R8 "system" after using one in the UK stalking deer for 5 days. I've been over the Blaser website dozens of times and used the build your own Blaser a bunch of times. I have found the whole educational process fairly overwhelming. These threads have been very helpful - I read everything and then head back over to the Blaser site and every time it becomes a little less overwhelming. Which is good.

I think I've settled on a Pro Savannah (alloy) as my stock/receiver of choice. I'd like to have a caliber for plainsgame, pronghorn, whitetails, etc (something 6.5 to 7mm), a 300 WM, and a 375H&H. My current dilemma is this: What barrel profile, and thus, what barrel channel in the stock? I'd like the standard 17mm barrel profile for the "deer" caliber, but I'm leaning towards a fluted semi-weight for the 300WM and a semi-weight for the 375. Obviously that would mean the standard barrel would have more clearance than necessary. Do I "need" the semi-weight in 375?

I'd love a 280 AI barrel as my "deer" caliber since I already have all of the reloading accoutrements and am a big fan of the caliber. But I'd need a custom barrel obviously.

Much to @Red Leg horror, I may end up shooting each of the 3 barrels suppressed. So I think the standard 25.6" is too long. Also, my experience with suppressed rifles is that shorter/heavier barrels seem to be more accurate and consistent when suppressed.

Thoughts?

I feel like I’m not missing anything with standard barrels. It is easy to add additional calibers if you want, I’m up to 6 calibers now and feel like I am thoroughly covered for my son and I. A recoil reducer in the stock is, in my opinion, a better option because it balances the gun better. I think the most important question is (1) how recoil sensitive are you and (2) how much you can practice.
I haven’t threaded any of the barrels yet, but likely will thread my .300 WM for my suppressor for this fall.

 

[TOBY458]

Fluted Semiweight and standard non fluted barrels are approximately 6oz different in weight. So not a huge difference. However the price is MUCH higher for the fluted Semiweight barrel. Roughly $3300 vs $1300 for new barrels in each weight.

 

[dchamp]

I would also get a barrel with iron sights, you never know when you will need it. Just sayin, Murphy and all.

 

[Rickmt]

Just keep drinking the kool-aid ! You will be fine when your Blaser arrives. As I anxiously await my rifles delivery!

 

[BeeMaa]

He'd have been a terrible (and probably personally miserable) supply officer. Too many color-coded spreadsheets and decision matrixes.

I don't think this is hijacking the OPs thread but if it is, please shout and I'll start yet another thread on the R8.

I'm a "details" guy and am very seriously considering a Blaser. I was sold on the R8 "system" after using one in the UK stalking deer for 5 days. I've been over the Blaser website dozens of times and used the build your own Blaser a bunch of times. I have found the whole educational process fairly overwhelming. These threads have been very helpful - I read everything and then head back over to the Blaser site and every time it becomes a little less overwhelming. Which is good.

I think I've settled on a Pro Savannah (alloy) as my stock/receiver of choice. I'd like to have a caliber for plainsgame, pronghorn, whitetails, etc (something 6.5 to 7mm), a 300 WM, and a 375H&H. My current dilemma is this: What barrel profile, and thus, what barrel channel in the stock? I'd like the standard 17mm barrel profile for the "deer" caliber, but I'm leaning towards a fluted semi-weight for the 300WM and a semi-weight for the 375. Obviously that would mean the standard barrel would have more clearance than necessary. Do I "need" the semi-weight in 375?

I'd love a 280 AI barrel as my "deer" caliber since I already have all of the reloading accoutrements and am a big fan of the caliber. But I'd need a custom barrel obviously.

Much to @Red Leg horror, I may end up shooting each of the 3 barrels suppressed. So I think the standard 25.6" is too long. Also, my experience with suppressed rifles is that shorter/heavier barrels seem to be more accurate and consistent when suppressed.

Thoughts?

I've owned a 375H&H Blaser R8 with the 22mm safari barrel...rifle weight was over 13#, and was way too heavy of a rifle for that caliber. I now shoot a 375H&H with a 17mm standard barrel, alloy receiver and no kickstop that weighs right at 10# including scope, sling and ammo. Bare rifle weighs 7.75# and is still a pleasure to shoot. I'd highly recommend staying with the 17mm standard barrel for 375 and below. If you need to add weight, add the kickstop because you can easily take it out. For a rifle that is being carried much more than it's being shot, it's something to consider.

As for calibers...if you are looking for 375H&H and 300WM it would be wise to stay in the same Magnum (MA) category of bolt heads. Something like the 257WBY would be a nice 6.5mm to add to the collection and uses the same MA bolt head.

 

[dchamp]

As for calibers...if you are looking for 375H&H and 300WM it would be wise to stay in the same Magnum (MA) category of bolt heads. Something like the 257WBY would be a nice 6.5mm to add to the collection and uses the same MA bolt head.

Or save the .257Wby for a K95

 

[Ridgewalker]

I haven’t threaded any of the barrels yet, but likely will thread my .300 WM for my suppressor for this fall.

I’m curious if a nitrided barrel can be threaded. They may have to grind it first to get below the nitrided surface treatment before threading. I’m interested to learn if a gunsmith will, or can thread them.

 

[Tra3]

I’m curious if a nitrided barrel can be threaded. They may have to grind it first to get below the nitrided surface treatment before threading. I’m interested to learn if a gunsmith will, or can thread them.

When I find out I’ll reply. I’ve been told that it can be done.

Btw: After 9 shooting sessions in the last month I am pleased with how the scopes return to zero after removing them repeatedly. And the .22 Lr barrel kit is super fun to have.

 

[One Day...]

... Do I "need" the semi-weight in 375?
Thoughts?

... Standard it is. ...

I do agree with Red Leg, dchamp, Opposite Pole, Tra3, BeeMaa, etc. that a standard barrel on an alloy receiver makes a near perfect .375 H&H at 9.5+lbs. scoped. This is how I started.

However, I sold my standard barrel and bought a semi-weight barrel when I bought my steel receiver stock. I expect that there is a .458 Lott barrel in my near future, so the heavier stock makes sense (to me at least ), and the semi-weight barrel is, as TOBY458 indicates, not all that heavier than a standard, but it fills very nicely (although not quite 100% but close enough) the 22 mm barrel channel because it is 21 mm inside the channel before tapering to 19 mm.

Additionally, I have been on record for a long time going back & forth between .375 and .416, and I finally found happiness with 2 scopes for the .375 H&H barrel. One Leica ER i 2.5-10x42 with BDC turret calibrated for the Barnes load load is sighted for the 300 g TSX as a "do-it-all" one-rifle battery; and one Leica Magnus 1-6x24 is sighted for the combo 350 gr Woodleigh FMJ solid and RN soft, which up-guns the .375 deep into .416 territory (ref. Kevin "doctari" Robertson). Beside backup to my Krieghoff double .470 on Elephant this year, it will also soon be quite the load for Kamtchaka Brown Bear I expect... Blame Red Leg for the Kamtchaka thing

The 350 gr loads kick back significantly more than the 300 g loads, and I find the semi-weight barrel just peachy for that but hey, I am on record too for having been the guy who regularly schlepped the AA52 (French equivalent to the M60) in Commando training (French equivalent to Ranger School I expect), so I really do not mind a little additional weight

It truly is one aspect of the R8 that is nice: one can typically find their own sweet spot

 

[K-man]

I’m curious if a nitrided barrel can be threaded. They may have to grind it first to get below the nitrided surface treatment before threading. I’m interested to learn if a gunsmith will, or can thread them.

When I find out I’ll reply. I’ve been told that it can be done.

Btw: After 9 shooting sessions in the last month I am pleased with how the scopes return to zero after removing them repeatedly. And the .22 Lr barrel kit is super fun to have.

Here is a picture of mine set up with the .416 ruger barrel. Threaded for muzzle abomination or just a cap. This is an aftermarket barrel made by J Sip. I don't recommend this shop not because of the barrel quality just the lack of communication and getting work done in this lifetime. This is a nitride barrel

 

[dchamp]

Yes you can cut and thread Blaser barrels. I know several who have had done it. I don't know the peculiarity's involved. The only difficulties mentioned were matching the thread pitch to the suppressor or adaptor. I also think Blaser may have some useful information and possibly their own can but I am not sure. Best to give them a call.

Living in California suppressors are illegal, so I am out of luck.. The politicians here believe too much in Hollywood. They think, only assassins have suppressors. No Joke

 

[Newby]

I’m curious if a nitrided barrel can be threaded. They may have to grind it first to get below the nitrided surface treatment before threading. I’m interested to learn if a gunsmith will, or can thread them.

I've had a standard weight 300Win barrel threaded without complaint, although the smith was aware that Blaser barrel steel is hard.
Since the US doesn't know what metric means, I would suggest caution in selection of the imperial/US thread diameter to ensure that sufficient muzzle wall thickness remains to prevent long term swelling at the muzzle.

 

[David AK 53]

Just keep drinking the kool-aid ! You will be fine when your Blaser arrives. As I anxiously await my rifles delivery!

When did you place your order? Lately when I check Eurooptic and Cove Creek Outfitters web sites most Blaser components are out of stock.

 

[Opposite Pole]

I’m curious if a nitrided barrel can be threaded. They may have to grind it first to get below the nitrided surface treatment before threading. I’m interested to learn if a gunsmith will, or can thread them.

They can be, I had one of mine none factory threaded.

 

[One Day...]

When did you place your order? Lately when I check Eurooptic and Cove Creek Outfitters web sites most Blaser components are out of stock.

That is sadly correct, and, to be candid, this has always been an issue with Blaser: very long lead times and unpredictability as to when US importer/distributors/dealers are re-supplied from Germany. Right now even Blaser USA refuses to quote a lead-time, but even before COVID it routinely took up to a year to get from Germany something that was not in inventory in the US, whether it was custom or catalog.

Currently, the dealer in the US who likely has the best inventory is Mark Schraeder out of Scottsdale AZ and who operates an internet-only business on GunBroker.com under the identity Mad Dog Guns. I have purchased regularly from him, he is reliable. Since I live in AZ I actually visited him at this house, and he actually owns the inventory (I saw it) that he advertises. You can buy from him on GunBroker or by calling him.

Van Bethancourt of Top Dog Guns is a great guy and also still has some inventory. He also runs an internet-only business on GunBroker.com. Actually, Van and Mark used to be partners, which explains the similarity of their business names. When they split they each attempted to keep the customer base...

I also bought from CoveCreek (lowest prices) and EuroOptics (almost as good prices when you have a repeat-customer status), but both have virtually completely depleted inventories... Right now Mark is your best bet, although he is not cheap...

I hope this helps

 

[BeeMaa]

I’m curious if a nitrided barrel can be threaded. They may have to grind it first to get below the nitrided surface treatment before threading. I’m interested to learn if a gunsmith will, or can thread them.

My 22lr barrel was made by Blaser (no sights) and was threaded here in the US at 1/2"-28. I bought it already threaded from Van at Top Dog Guns Global. And to dovetail this into what @One Day... is talking about... I've bought stuff from Van at least 5 different times and he's a really good guy. I'd highly recommend him. He bent over backwards to make sure I got parts on time. Can't say enough good about him.

I've also purchased Blaser products from Mark at Mad Dog Gun and he was good to do business with as well.

 

[Ridgewalker]

I bought it already threaded from Van at Top Dog Guns Global.

+1 Van is full of great info on Blasers and is enjoyable to chat with. I hadn’t thought of calling him about threading. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[Rickmt]

I purchased from Cove Creek . Saved a lot of money . Bob is excellent . I have bee waiting for one part to complete my 2 gun , 3 barrel order since end of April . We need a right hand bolt .
I was not impressed with Mad Dog . Van at Top gun was ok but out of stock and then Cove creek was great to work with and really saved me big bucks.

 

[David AK 53]

That is sadly correct, and, to be candid, this has always been an issue with Blaser: very long lead times and unpredictability as to when US importer/distributors/dealers are re-supplied from Germany. Right now even Blaser USA refuses to quote a lead-time, but even before COVID it routinely took up to a year to get from Germany something that was not in inventory in the US, whether it was custom or catalog.

Currently, the dealer in the US who likely has the best inventory is Mark Schraeder out of Scottsdale AZ and who operates an internet-only business on GunBroker.com under the identity Mad Dog Guns. I have purchased regularly from him, he is reliable. Since I live in AZ I actually visited him at this house, and he actually owns the inventory (I saw it) that he advertises. You can buy from him on GunBroker or by calling him.

Van Bethancourt of Top Dog Guns is a great guy and also still has some inventory. He also runs an internet-only business on GunBroker.com. Actually, Van and Mark used to be partners, which explains the similarity of their business names. When they split they each attempted to keep the customer base...

I also bought from CoveCreek (lowest prices) and EuroOptics (almost as good prices when you have a repeat-customer status), but both have virtually completely depleted inventories... Right now Mark is your best bet, although he is not cheap...

I hope this helps

View attachment 406251

Thanks for the input. I have briefly glanced at Mad Dog Guns, but not in great detail. I will have to look into it in greater detail and Top Dog as well.

On my last visit to Cove Creek’s site it looked like there was an R8 Sporter that did not come up as out of stock when I did a test run by putting it in my cart. I made an inquiry by email about shipping to Anchorage but no reply yet; maybe I need to call. My plan was to start with a .223 Rem setup and eventually add a .375 H&H.

 

[Rickmt]

Call Bob at Cove creek. He is owner and great to work with .