I am a SWAT Team Leader and have used Trijicon more years than I care to share at work, active duty down range and on most of my hunting rigs…. I bet my life on them. They’re bomb proof and I’ve never had a POI shift. Just my .02I have a Leopold Freedom 1-4 on my 375 Ruger and it has worked out well enough. Occasionally it seems the zero wonders a tad, maybe 1 MOA. It is not clear whether this is me or the scope. All I can say is my Leopold 2-7 on a 308 has been more consistent, smaller groups AND it never seems to wonder. If a group opens up because I'm tired and shooting bad it seems more centered just bigger.
Because of this I'm considering a scope upgrade. My 375 is my "bear gun" so I really don't want it to fail me at an bad time.
Does anyone have an opinion about how tough a Leopold is compared to other stuff out there (sub $1000)? Right now an old style Trijicon Accupoint 1-4 looks like the best bet. I like the sleek construction and light weight compared to the tactical style scopes by other companies. The illuminated reticle is not totally necessary but nice.
How do Trijicon Accupoints hold up to recoil and to being bumped into things? I've heard a few good reports. Has anyone broken one? Has anyone had one survive abuse?
Believe some models from SWFA also passed his tests. The 6x42 SS, 3-9x42 SS HD and possibly the 3-15 SS.Bringing up a slightly old thread. Over the last few years I have leaned a bunch about scope reliability.
Probably 15 - 20 years ago I though I had settled on my optics. I liked whatever version of Leupold's VX-3 series that fit what I was doing. They were lightweight, seemed durable, and I didn't dial the crosshairs in the field.
A few years ago, the LRBR community starting checking scopes for their ability to hold zero. We found that the NF BR models, the NXS, and the Vortex Golden Eagle all held their zero. All of the the other scopes, including the lighter weight NF Comp, had reticle shift of about .1 MOA between shots.
Now .1 MOA reticle shift isn't an issue for any kind of hunting, or any discipline other than BR. But it does push back against the idea that such and such scope is dead nuts reliable under recoil.
Then we get to the drop tests. On another forum, there is an individual who has done extensive testing, documentation, and posted the results. So far, the only scopes that ever fully pass the drop tests are Nightforce and Trijicon.
He drops scopes from 18" and then 36". A three-foot drop isn't an unrealistic event in the field. The amount of reticle shift ranged from about .2 mil to 1 mil. That's roughly .7" to 3.6" at 100 yds.
So my thinking from 20 years ago that a Leu 1.75-6 was a bullet proof scope was wrong. As I prepare for my buffalo hunt over the next couple of years, one of my steps will be to get a Nightforce 1-8 scope for whichever rifle I take.
Believe some models from SWFA also passed his tests. The 6x42 SS, 3-9x42 SS HD and possibly the 3-15 SS.
Do you use Burris scopes, personally or at the shop? If so how do they do?The only way we know for sure that a scope doesn't shift its reticle when firing is by using a scope checker. That allows us to mount a fixed scope side by side with the scope we are checking, shoot, and check for shift.
Again, most scopes--even very expensive scopes--do have some reticle shift under firing, though it isn't enough to matter in most shooting situations. What separates the men from the boys is the 36" drop test.
I am fortunate enough to work in the firearms industry, and one of the things we do is load development for both the rifles we build as well as other builder's rifles. I personally have shot a lot of scopes and collectively we have shot a lot more.
I think what imparts the most stress on a scope is a large chambered rifle with a brake. Like a 33 XC or a 338 Lapua IMP.....or 375 CTs and 416 Barrett's. The brake seems to add a significant forward motion in addition to the rearward recoil. This added movement adds a lot of stress. We have had scope mounts shoot loose and chassis screws come loose.
I too never noticed an issue with my own Leupolds on unbraked rifles, but I never wrung them out like we do at the shop. I also plan to keep the Leupold's on my lighter rifles. However, those aren't DG rifles or long range rifles. I think that outside of competition shooting, long range hunting (600+ yds) requires the most out of a scope in terms of consistent tracking and holding zero. With the way I like to hunt--close--reticle shift isn't going to make that much difference.
We have had several scopes fail one way or the other. Our Mk 5 has failed a couple of times and the USO has failed. This is just from shooting at the range. While the NX8 in 4-32 is outstanding, the NX8 in 2.5-20 isn't in terms of durability. We have had at least two 2.5-20s fail. I even broke the zero-stop on a Swarovski, but that was my fault--though its plastic parts in the turret didn't inspire confidence.
Anyway, most scopes will work fine in most situations, but the toughest will probably say Nightforce of the side. From what I understand, the US Military stopped using Leupold and now only uses Nightforce.
The only way we know for sure that a scope doesn't shift its reticle when firing is by using a scope checker. That allows us to mount a fixed scope side by side with the scope we are checking, shoot, and check for shift.
Again, most scopes--even very expensive scopes--do have some reticle shift under firing, though it isn't enough to matter in most shooting situations. What separates the men from the boys is the 36" drop test.
I am fortunate enough to work in the firearms industry, and one of the things we do is load development for both the rifles we build as well as other builder's rifles. I personally have shot a lot of scopes and collectively we have shot a lot more.
I think what imparts the most stress on a scope is a large chambered rifle with a brake. Like a 33 XC or a 338 Lapua IMP.....or 375 CTs and 416 Barrett's. The brake seems to add a significant forward motion in addition to the rearward recoil. This added movement adds a lot of stress. We have had scope mounts shoot loose and chassis screws come loose.
I too never noticed an issue with my own Leupolds on unbraked rifles, but I never wrung them out like we do at the shop. I also plan to keep the Leupold's on my lighter rifles. However, those aren't DG rifles or long range rifles. I think that outside of competition shooting, long range hunting (600+ yds) requires the most out of a scope in terms of consistent tracking and holding zero. With the way I like to hunt--close--reticle shift isn't going to make that much difference.
We have had several scopes fail one way or the other. Our Mk 5 has failed a couple of times and the USO has failed. This is just from shooting at the range. While the NX8 in 4-32 is outstanding, the NX8 in 2.5-20 isn't in terms of durability. We have had at least two 2.5-20s fail. I even broke the zero-stop on a Swarovski, but that was my fault--though its plastic parts in the turret didn't inspire confidence.
Anyway, most scopes will work fine in most situations, but the toughest will probably say Nightforce of the side. From what I understand, the US Military stopped using Leupold and now only uses Nightforce.
Do you use Burris scopes, personally or at the shop? If so how do they do?