Lee Factory Crimp Die for .470 NE

All of this detailed knowledge and discussion is so valuable - thank you everyone for contributing!

So is it correct then that the “best” solution ignoring cost would be to have multiple specific crimping dies at different lengths to accommodate the ranges of case length that you might have?
 
This is just my opinion- I have a crimping die for my 9.3 and I see no visually discernible difference in crimp using a seating die.
 
This is just my opinion- I have a crimping die for my 9.3 and I see no visually discernible difference in crimp using a seating die.
All of this detailed knowledge and discussion is so valuable - thank you everyone for contributing!

So is it correct then that the “best” solution ignoring cost would be to have multiple specific crimping dies at different lengths to accommodate the ranges of case length that you might have?

It’s a factory crimp die per caliber, not per bullet type.
 
Could a possible alternative solution be to just get a second seating die and remove the seating plug and set it up for crimping rather than seating? That way you can move the seating depth up and down depending on the case length?
I tried that exact thing but it just does not put a good crimp for me
 
The mechanics are completely different between how the two types of crimps are formed. The tapered crimp ring inside the seating die pushes case metal both inward and downward during crimp formation. The Lee FCD collet only pushes a band of case mouth metal inward, resulting in a very consistent outcome. It’s the downward force part of crimping with the tapered ring in the standard seating die that can cause issues during the process, resulting in variable or even less bullet/neck tension due to the downward force, “wrinkling” effect.
 
The mechanics are completely different between how the two types of crimps are formed. The tapered crimp ring inside the seating die pushes case metal both inward and downward during crimp formation. The Lee FCD collet only pushes a band of case mouth metal inward, resulting in a very consistent outcome. It’s the downward force part of crimping with the tapered ring in the standard seating die that can cause issues during the process, resulting in variable or even less bullet/neck tension due to the downward force, “wrinkling” effect.
just got my custom lee crimp die for my 470 NE. I have an RCBS Rock Chucker press so does not fit. when i called lee precision customer service they told me they do not sell an adapter to make this fit. only option was to order a lee classic press that fits both RCBS and Lee dies. bummer!!!
 
just got my custom lee crimp die for my 470 NE. I have an RCBS Rock Chucker press so does not fit. when i called lee precision customer service they told me they do not sell an adapter to make this fit. only option was to order a lee classic press that fits both RCBS and Lee dies. bummer!!!I don't remeI
I have only images of the Supreme version which is like the classic Lee and Redding presses that have the screw in die holder for regular dies and can be removed for 50 cal sized dies. Odd... can you show pictures of the die and press? My Rigby crimp die fits regular size.
 
just got my custom lee crimp die for my 470 NE. I have an RCBS Rock Chucker press so does not fit. when i called lee precision customer service they told me they do not sell an adapter to make this fit. only option was to order a lee classic press that fits both RCBS and Lee dies. bummer!!!
Can the bushing in the Rock Chucker be removed and the then the 470 crimp die screwed directly into the press? Or are they non-compatible threads?
 
Can the bushing in the Rock Chucker be removed and the then the 470 crimp die screwed directly into the press? Or are they non-compatible threads?
I’ve tried to remove the RCBS bushing but it will not budge
 
I believe the Lee die has a 1/14” x 12 thread therefore you don’t need an adapter for that press. Just remove the bushing that came in the press. May require kroil, heat, pipe wrench, cheater pipe etc.
IMG_2301.png
 
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Penetrating lubricant may help.
You might need to un-bolt the press and turn it upside down. Then apply the penetrating oil. I just removed the bushing in my Rock Chucker, just to see if I could. I have a set of 3/4 inch drive sockets, rachet, etc. I used the 1-1/2" socket and the 20 inch long ratchet and was able to break it loose. Removed it, oiled the threads and replaced. Should be good for another 20 years.

Not many people have 3/4" drive socket sets. You can buy a 1-1/2" socket for a 1/2" drive. $3-4 at harbor freight or $9 for a Craftsman on Amazon.
 

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