Everything you need to know about slings and swivels for safaris and safari rifles

[Jon Glajchen]

All leather and cleverly designed, this South African made sling compliments a classic express rifle and is silent while hunting as well!

 

[rookhawk]

Thank you @rookhawk for the education and the information. It strikes me that a sling that combined the silent rawhide ties on the end, along with the Murray sliding buckle adjustment system, would be a pretty handy thing; certainly one that I'd be interested to buy. Perhaps Murray Leather could be induced to offer one. I like the rawhide ties for the historical/romantic aspect, I like the looks, and I like the fact that they're not going to scratch up a firearm or make noise. Having the adjustment buckle would take that sling to another level.

I agree with you. I would imagine if you called Murray Leather they’d likely accommodate your request. It solves the “final approach” predicament when you want to side carry your rifle, preparing to find a buff or ele at any moment where you may need to take a very fast shot.

 

[BeeMaa]

Not what most would call "traditional", but it's an option...

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Not what most would call "traditional", but it's an option...

A suggestion. Before setting this up on the drill press I would drill a very shallow pilot starting hole with fine drill bit. Then with the brad point drill bit in an electric hand drill, switch tool to reverse (for backing out stuck drill bits) and start the hole for recessed swivel housing. The bit, of course, will not drill into wood in reverse. But it should score the wood fibers on surface without tearing. That way the hole will be started clean when set up on the drill press with drill cutting clockwise. If your drill press can be changed to counterclockwise revolution (some can), then no need to start with hand drill.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Not what most would call "traditional", but it's an option...

These would be ideal for fore end especially. With sling removed there is nothing to get caught in bench rest rig or shooting sticks. At the range I will usually unthread my forward sling studs just to get them out of the way. However, I don't care for the idea of mounting the sling on the flat of butt. This would seem to eliminate switching shoulders?

Curious why this guy didn't just remove the conventional forward sling stud and open the existing hole up for new recessed QD sling swivel cup. Why drill an extra hole in the wood?

It is my understanding that threading the cups into stocks is primarily, if not exclusively, intended for synthetic stocks. I think for wood stocks the cups are anchored with a screw through the center.

 

[rookhawk]

Just sharing a photo to explain the superiority of the European sling swivel system versus the Uncle Mikes. This is a screen grab of a Heym double I found on the web.

Note the two notches on the outside of the barrel sling stud? When used with a European swivel that has the articulating hinge ($60 per pair) the sling swivel cannot clang into the barrels because the swivel cannot travel 180 degrees the way an american swivel system can. Thus, no noise and no barrel/stock damage from your sling swivel.

This is why I cringe when people drill out their European gun’s swivel studs…it took a lot more engineering thought to design such a system than it took engineering ignorance to drill them out, ruining them for the sake of an uncle mike’s swivel.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Just sharing a photo to explain the superiority of the European sling swivel system versus the Uncle Mikes. This is a screen grab of a Heym double I found on the web.

Note the two notches on the outside of the barrel sling stud? When used with a European swivel that has the articulating hinge ($60 per pair) the sling swivel cannot clang into the barrels because the swivel cannot travel 180 degrees the way an american swivel system can. Thus, no noise and no barrel/stock damage from your sling swivel.

This is why I cringe when people drill out their European gun’s swivel studs…it took a lot more engineering thought to design such a system than it took engineering ignorance to drill them out, ruining them for the sake of an uncle mike’s swivel.

View attachment 624946

If the leather strap is run through the hoop on an Uncle Mike's detachable sling swivel, how can it ever clang onto barrels or wood? Only the leather will ever touch the gun's metal or wood. Certainly, this could be a problem with old classic style permanent conventional rings when sling is removed, but NOT Uncle Mike's QD detachable style ... IF one properly installs Uncle Mike's swivel studs. Note those cute "white line" plastic spacer rings (which are available in black but hard to find). They are not mere decorations. These spacers mount UM's studs just high enough so the metal of their detachable sling swivels cannot touch the stock. Look closely at Uncle Mike's swivel studs. They also have keepers to stop the swivels from overtravel onto wood. But for whatever reason, the keepers require the ring spacers or studs will be too close to stock.

Mind you, I'm not singing praises for Uncle Mike's. Their detachable swivels will eventually fall apart. Their locking pins are pressed/peened into place on the fixed end. The pins will work themselves loose and fall out.

 

[skydiver386]

What kind of cross fit-yoga gyrations are y’all doing with your rifle sling. Seriously, I did have one come loose on a TC carbine and a 10/22. I took the sling stud out, put some Gorilla glue on it and put piece of toothpick in the hole, that stopped it.

Safe shooting

Believe me, I've seen plenty of waterfowl shotguns get banged up while carrying bags of decoys, etc. and being carried with a sling. Goose guns lead a hard life!

I try to baby anything with nice walnut, but a hunting gun is likely to develop some "Character" over the years.

 

[rookhawk]

If the leather strap is run through the hoop on an Uncle Mike's detachable sling swivel, how can it ever clang onto barrels or wood? Only the leather will ever touch the gun's metal or wood. Certainly, this could be a problem with old classic style permanent conventional rings when sling is removed, but NOT Uncle Mike's QD detachable style ... IF one properly installs Uncle Mike's swivel studs. Note those cute "white line" plastic spacer rings (which are available in black but hard to find). They are not mere decorations. These spacers mount UM's studs just high enough so the metal of their detachable sling swivels cannot touch the stock or metal. Look closely at Uncle Mike's swivel studs. They also have keepers to stop the swivels from overtravel onto wood or barrel metal. But for whatever reason, the keepers require the ring spacers or studs will be too close to stock.

Mind you, I'm not singing praises for Uncle Mike's. Their detachable swivels will eventually fall apart. Their locking pins are pressed/peened into place on the fixed end. The pins will work themselves loose and fall out.

The top of an uncle mikes swivel (the loop) can hinge and does damage barrel bands and stocks. It was a system designed for simple guns, not one considering best guns nor the silence preferred for close range spot and stalk work.

The tolerances between a conventional stud and uncle mikes swivel is also generous, leading to more rattle.

The European/German swivel and studs are much tighter tolerances and were designed to protect the guns from damage while remaining quiet(er).

The Brits of course had the quietest approach we discussed above, oversized sling eyes and a rawhide thong sling tied to them.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Believe me, I've seen plenty of waterfowl shotguns get banged up while carrying bags of decoys, etc. and being carried with a sling. Goose guns lead a hard life!

I try to baby anything with nice walnut, but a hunting gun is likely to develop some "Character" over the years.

Yep. Waterfowl hunting = wet hunting = wood swelling and shrinking constantly. Eventually screw in sling studs will loosen as the hole in wood opens up from swelling/shrinking. It's one reason why my classic Browning A5 goose gun now wears synthetic.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

The top of an uncle mikes swivel (the loop) can hinge and does damage barrel bands and stocks. It was a system designed for simple guns, not one considering best guns nor the silence preferred for close range spot and stalk work.

The tolerances between a conventional stud and uncle mikes swivel is also generous, leading to more rattle.

The European/German swivel and studs are much tighter tolerances and were designed to protect the guns from damage while remaining quiet(er).

The Brits of course had the quietest approach we discussed above, oversized sling eyes and a rawhide thong sling tied to them.

Here's Uncle Mike's QD swivel and stud. Hardly what I would call sloppy tolerance between locking pin and stud. Quite snug in fact.

And here I am pushing down as hard as I can on swivel to try and make it mark the wood. Still plenty of clearance. Note the keeper ring machined into lip of the stud. But it won't keep the swivel from touching wood unless stud is mounted with the plastic spacer.