Your advice please

[Ridgewalker]

Hmm, I forgot your 416 Ruger only has a 20” barrel. You may have to use a faster powder than H4350 in it, or deal with muzzle flash and waisted powder. Just a thought.

 

[Ridgewalker]

https://www.speer-ammo.com/downloads/speer/reloading-pdfs/Rifle/41_caliber_416_dia/416_Ruger_350.pdf

Here is a link to a pdf from Speer, but no H4350. I’m thinking it must be too slow for the 416 Ruger since there is very little info using it.

 

[Shootist43]

Ridgewalker, just out of curiosity what does the Woodleigh manual show as their recommended load of H4350?

 

[Ridgewalker]

Ridgewalker, just out of curiosity what does the Woodleigh manual show as their recommended load of H4350?

400gr RN SN, H4350 start 80.0@2,070fps, MAX 85.0C@2,210fps

 

[Hogpatrol]

Ammo guide gives no loads for the 416 Ruger using H4350. Most loads listed are using 2000MR for the heavies and H4895 for the lighter bullets, Reloder 15 for the midweights.

 

[sgt_zim]

Swift #2 has 416 R loads (350 and 400 gr A-Frames)
BL-C(2)
Varget
RL-15
2000MR
IMR 4064
IMR 4320

 

[tarbe]

What priming tool do you guys use for the 470 N.E.?

This is what I use for all priming duties now...from Bald Eagle.

Best priming tool I've used in 44 years of loading!

 

[Rob404]

Mines kind of a mixed bag of things I scrounged it's located down in the garage an with the exception of the re-loading bench all on wheels so if I ever move I can take it with me

 

[dchamp]

I believe it is an Aliant powder. The full and I assume correct name is Power Pro 2000 MR. But I could be mistaken because it doesn't appear on any of my Burning Rate charts either.

I think Alliant's 2000MR is very similar to Hodgdon's CFE223 and Ramshot's Big Game. My son uses 2000MR in his 9.3x62 and I use CFE 223 in my 9.3x62. Same bullet almost same load and speed. When I run the numbers on QuickLoad for different calibers that I use, CFE 223 and Big Game are usually very close in charge weights and velocities. I am currently working on a promising load for the .375H&H with 300gr NFSS's with Big Game.

From what others have said about 2000MR and the .416 Ruger I think 2000MR would be worth the risk trying it in the .375H&H. From what I see in the manuals something like Alliant's RL25 or H-1000 would work well in the .470NE and the .300WM depending on the weight of bullet used in the .300WM.

The only concern I would have with using 2000MR is he is new to hand loading and there is not a lot of information using this powder with these calibers.

 

[CAustin]

Got a lot of stuff in from Midway USA Today and picked up some powder at Powder Valley yesterday. Midway has two big items on backorder. Installed a new overhead light in the work area and will run an electrical outlet tomorrow.
Then I’m building a work bench over the next few weeks!

 

[dchamp]

Well I wish you the best. Hand loading is a head scratching frustrating but yet a very satisfying and rewarding hobby.

 

[lwaters]

Charlie good luck reloading. Here is my area.

 

[One Day...]

Hello Guys;

If OK with you I would like to seat in the chair next to CAustin Charlie's at the africahunting.com Reloading School 101. Can I please join and ask a few questions?

For context I do not intend to run big batches of ammo at this stage. If I really get into reloading I will later add a progressive press for high volume pistol or .223 ammo (the 5 kids consume a staggering amount ;-), but in the mean time I would like to start with hunting rifle ammo (.243 to .470). In terms of equipment, I would rather buy right than buy cheap then buy twice, but I see no real point in spending more money than necessary to get the right quality equipment.

1) Chronograph: I already have a Caldwell Ballistic Chronograph that I have been using to clock the factory ammo I use.

2) Press: I know zilch but the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme seems perfect. Great reputation. I too need to go up to .470 NE. Other priority candidates are .340 Wby, .257 Wby, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott, and my two boys' 7 Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag (although the PPU ammo for these two is so good and so cheap that there is less motivation).

3) Dies: I would have intuitively gone with RCBS dies on the superficial reasoning that if RCBS is "IT" for the press, then one would assume they have good dies too (?). What is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Redding over RCBS or Hornady for example?

4) Trimmer: same question; what is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Forster over RCBS or others?

5) Powder measure: I notice that Shootist43 Art does not address the subject. Is it because you recommend buying a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit that comes with a scale and powder measure?

6) Do you guys use a powder measure or do you weigh each and every charge? In either case, what it the best method / tool, and what is it to prefer between the various brands?

7) Scale: similar question; a mechanical one comes with the kit. Do you guys use mechanical or electronic scales? Which one? What is it to prefer between the various brands?

8) Powder trickler?

9) Priming: I notice that the kit comes with a hand priming tool. Not sure why since there is a primer arm on the press? Do you prime on the reloading press or by hand or on a separate primer press? Why?

10) I am speculating that the answers to the questions re. scale, powder measure, and priming tool will give the answer to whether one should buy the kit or individual components.

11) Case tumbler?

We will deal with powders in a second step... I suspect I will keep it simple. I spent that last 40 years shooting exclusively Federal Premium and Weatherby factory ammo loaded with Nosler Partition, and they shot well enough in all my rifles. I suspect that the foreseeable future will be focused on Barnes TTSX for the fast calibers and TSX for the DG calibers, and I have a stock pile of 750 DGS and DGX (yep, you read right: 750; 15 boxes !?!?!?) that came essentially free with a set of RCBS dies with the .470 Kreighoff. One of the variables for powder will probably be the various calibers, but I am not chasing 1/2 MOA reloads. Like sgt_zim I have long come to the conclusion that 1 MOA is plenty good enough for hunting purposes. Heck! it is better than what I can shoot from most field positions anyway...

Phoenix Phil Phil when the time comes, are you OK to become my local hands-on mentor (I am in Flagstaff)

I know 'a little bit' about shooting or hunting ;-) but I an a complete beginner with reloading. So, please do not hesitate to be candid about the 'whats' and 'what nots,' I need your advice.

Thank you all in advance.
Pascal

PS: I do not see on your various benches a cigar ashtray. Any specific place you would recommend? (OK just kidding LOL)

 

[Lbarr265]

Hello Guys;

If OK with you I would like to seat in the chair next to CAustin Charlie's at the africahunting.com Reloading School 101. Can I please join and ask a few questions?

For context I do not intend to run big batches of ammo at this stage. If I really get into reloading I will later add a progressive press for high volume pistol or .223 ammo (the 5 kids consume a staggering amount ;-), but in the mean time I would like to start with hunting rifle ammo (.243 to .470). In terms of equipment, I would rather buy right than buy cheap then buy twice, but I see no real point in spending more money than necessary to get the right quality equipment.

1) Chronograph: I already have a Caldwell Ballistic Chronograph that I have been using to clock the factory ammo I use.

2) Press: I know zilch but the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme seems perfect. Great reputation. I too need to go up to .470 NE. Other priority candidates are .340 Wby, .257 Wby, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott, and my two boys' 7 Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag (although the PPU ammo for these two is so good and so cheap that there is less motivation).

3) Dies: I would have intuitively gone with RCBS dies on the superficial reasoning that if RCBS is "IT" for the press, then one would assume they have good dies too (?). What is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Redding over RCBS or Hornady for example?

4) Trimmer: same question; what is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Forster over RCBS or others?

5) Powder measure: I notice that Shootist43 Art does not address the subject. Is it because you recommend buying a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit that comes with a scale and powder measure?

6) Do you guys use a powder measure or do you weigh each and every charge? In either case, what it the best method / tool, and what is it to prefer between the various brands?

7) Scale: similar question; a mechanical one comes with the kit. Do you guys use mechanical or electronic scales? Which one? What is it to prefer between the various brands?

8) Powder trickler?

9) Priming: I notice that the kit comes with a hand priming tool. Not sure why since there is a primer arm on the press? Do you prime on the reloading press or by hand or on a separate primer press? Why?

10) I am speculating that the answers to the questions re. scale, powder measure, and priming tool will give the answer to whether one should buy the kit or individual components.

11) Case tumbler?

We will deal with powders in a second step... I suspect I will keep it simple. I spent that last 40 years shooting exclusively Federal Premium and Weatherby factory ammo loaded with Nosler Partition, and they shot well enough in all my rifles. I suspect that the foreseeable future will be focused on Barnes TTSX for the fast calibers and TSX for the DG calibers, and I have a stock pile of 750 DGS and DGX (yep, you read right: 750; 15 boxes !?!?!?) that came essentially free with a set of RCBS dies with the .470 Kreighoff. One of the variables for powder will probably be the various calibers, but I am not chasing 1/2 MOA reloads. Like sgt_zim I have long come to the conclusion that 1 MOA is plenty good enough for hunting purposes. Heck! it is better than what I can shoot from most field positions anyway...

Phoenix Phil Phil when the time comes, are you OK to become my local hands-on mentor (I am in Flagstaff)

I know 'a little bit' about shooting or hunting ;-) but I an a complete beginner with reloading. So, please do not hesitate to be candid about the 'whats' and 'what nots,' I need your advice.

Thank you all in advance.
Pascal

PS: I do not see on your various benches a cigar ashtray. Any specific place you would recommend? (OK just kidding LOL)

Rcbs does have good dies, they are what I use and have never had a problem. I have had issues with my fathers hornady dies. They have a weird collar device to help seat the bullet that seems to do more harm than good in my opinion.

For the trimmer I have RCBS and regret it. Dad has hornady and I think theirs is superior in ease of use. Not difference in final product of brass than I can tell.

For questions 5-8 I recommend getting an automatic dispenser with a scale like the RCBS chargemaster. I prefer the light version but I think hornady and Lyman also make good ones, never used one personally. But it seems much simpler and safer to me to weigh every charge.

Priming arm on the press will be slower than a hand primer unless you get the upgrade. Otherwise you end up placing primers one at a time with tweezers in the priming arm and it’s frustratingly slow.

For case tumbler I went with hornady as it was on sale. You can do wet or dry tumblers. Dry tumblers will have you picking your media out of flash holes and wet ones require more work to wash and dry the brass. They both get the brass equally clean if done right. I prefer the dry as it gives me a good chance to inspect the primer pockets as I clean them out.

 

[Dewald]

I will try give my opinion based on just over 20 years of reloading here. Not a right or wrong approach, purely what works practically for me, primarily as a hunter, secondly as a recreational NON COMPETITIVE target shooter and thirdly as someone with a rather common sense approach to life.

Reloading as a hunter is to me what tying my own flies are as a fly fisherman. Its not ment to save money. It is a wonderful hobby within a hobby that gives me great pleasure and complets the bigger picture - a trout cought with a fly you tied, from the feathers and hair of a buck and brace of francolin you shot, with ammo you loaded yourself tastes better than the best restaurant can prepare...

In South Africa we have seen a large increase in the shooting culture, and an often misguided approach to try and throw money towards accuracy.

One does not need the Benchrest/ LR hunting approach to your reloading for effective hunting with rifles at normal distances under 300y. Also, the chain is as strong as its weekest link, so to jump through silly hoops ito case preparations for a .470 makes no sense.

Hello Guys;

If OK with you I would like to seat in the chair next to CAustin Charlie's at the africahunting.com Reloading School 101. Can I please join and ask a few questions?

For context I do not intend to run big batches of ammo at this stage. If I really get into reloading I will later add a progressive press for high volume pistol or .223 ammo (the 5 kids consume a staggering amount ;-), but in the mean time I would like to start with hunting rifle ammo (.243 to .470). In terms of equipment, I would rather buy right than buy cheap then buy twice, but I see no real point in spending more money than necessary to get the right quality equipment.

*You can load a staggering amount on a single stage, especially when recruiting said 5 kids to give a hand. That is how they learn as well*

1) Chronograph: I already have a Caldwell Ballistic Chronograph that I have been using to clock the factory ammo I use.

*100%. No need to change that*

2) Press: I know zilch but the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme seems perfect. Great reputation. I too need to go up to .470 NE. Other priority candidates are .340 Wby, .257 Wby, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott, and my two boys' 7 Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag (although the PPU ammo for these two is so good and so cheap that there is less motivation).

*RCBS, Redding Big Boss II, are all good. They will fit the .470 with ease. I use a big Simplex, but would easily use on of the above.

3) Dies: I would have intuitively gone with RCBS dies on the superficial reasoning that if RCBS is "IT" for the press, then one would assume they have good dies too (?). What is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Redding over RCBS or Hornady for example?

*RCBS or Redding is much of a muchness. No need for Whidden, Wilson, Forster etc, at all sorts of silly prices for your application. For obsolete calibres CH4D are good. Any set that has a Full Size, Neck Size and Seater die for the normal calibres. For the .470 it will be FS, expander an seater die.

Carbide dies for the 9mm as they need no lube. It saves tons of time.

For the rifles with heavy recoil, a Lee factory crimp die to make sure bullets dont creep forward out of cases in the magazine.

I also hate Hornady dies. That sleave in the seater and the decapping rod pulling out of the collet is as frustrating as dealing with an African border post policeman looking for a bribe*

4) Trimmer: same question; what is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Forster over RCBS or others?

*Forster has a good patent with a collet gripping the case head and trims the necks 100% perpendicular to the axis. You will need two for your small calibres and the .470*
Nowadays the RCBS uses the same collet. If you can get away with one trimmer that way go RCBS.

Any deburring tool afterwards to shamfer the case mouths inside and out.
NB. You only do the inside if using the factory crimp die.*

5) Powder measure: I notice that Shootist43 Art does not address the subject. Is it because you recommend buying a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit that comes with a scale and powder measure?

*RCBS, Redding, Hornady, Lyman are all the same, and will all do. If you want to spash out get a Harrel, but it is not at all necessary.*

6) Do you guys use a powder measure or do you weigh each and every charge? In either case, what it the best method / tool, and what is it to prefer between the various brands?

*nowadays I check every 5th charge from the powder measure with extruded powder and just throw ball powder. I’m yet to get more than 0,1gr variation on ball powder.*

7) Scale: similar question; a mechanical one comes with the kit. Do you guys use mechanical or electronic scales? Which one? What is it to prefer between the various brands?

* Any balance beam scale or electronic scale made by Ohaus (read RCBS) is reliable. I have a Dillon made by CED that also works well. If I get a bargain I will buy a RCBS Chargemaster to do everything, however it doesn’t warrant the expense now for me*

8) Powder trickler?

*Any brand. But necessary when using a separate powder hopper and scale.*

9) Priming: I notice that the kit comes with a hand priming tool. Not sure why since there is a primer arm on the press? Do you prime on the reloading press or by hand or on a separate primer press? Why?

* A hand priming tool is convenient and gives you a good feel of how tight the primers fit. It takes more than a hundred primers in a tray and you just sit back in front of the TV or fireplace and prime. I use 2 Lees and a Hornady. The Lees are cheap, so one is set up for small rifle/pistol primers and the other for large. They do use different shellholders though and dont cater for the doubles. I would get an RCBS or Hornady if I was you, that uses the press shellholder. An extra 5 minutes to change shellholders, but then one tool caters for all*

10) I am speculating that the answers to the questions re. scale, powder measure, and priming tool will give the answer to whether one should buy the kit or individual components.

* I built my components up with what worked the best over time, and even with the kit you will always find you need extra items, ie vernier, trimmer pilots (Forster and Redding are interchangeable), shellholders, lube, case specific loading trays, funnels etc etc etc.*

11) Case tumbler?

*I use a stainless steel wet tumbler. Gives the best clean in the shortest time, and I like to run clean cases through my dies. However none of them doesn’t work, so vibratory tumbler, SS tumbler or sonic cleaner all does the job*

We will deal with powders in a second step... I suspect I will keep it simple. I spent that last 40 years shooting exclusively Federal Premium and Weatherby factory ammo loaded with Nosler Partition, and they shot well enough in all my rifles. I suspect that the foreseeable future will be focused on Barnes TTSX for the fast calibers and TSX for the DG calibers, and I have a stock pile of 750 DGS and DGX (yep, you read right: 750; 15 boxes !?!?!?) that came essentially free with a set of RCBS dies with the .470 Kreighoff. One of the variables for powder will probably be the various calibers, but I am not chasing 1/2 MOA reloads. Like sgt_zim I have long come to the conclusion that 1 MOA is plenty good enough for hunting purposes. Heck! it is better than what I can shoot from most field positions anyway...

Phoenix Phil Phil when the time comes, are you OK to become my local hands-on mentor (I am in Flagstaff)

I know 'a little bit' about shooting or hunting ;-) but I an a complete beginner with reloading. So, please do not hesitate to be candid about the 'whats' and 'what nots,' I need your advice.

Thank you all in advance.
Pascal

PS: I do not see on your various benches a cigar ashtray. Any specific place you would recommend? (OK just kidding LOL)

PS: I do not see on your various benches a cigar ashtray. Any specific place you would recommend?

I balance it on the propellant tin next to the glass of Laphroaig...

 

[Hogpatrol]

@One Day... No definitive answer to any of those questions and there's a hundred different ways to skin this cat. The usual path for new reloaders is buy a bunch of equipment, figure out what you like and don't like, use and can't use, buy more stuff, and eventually settle on something with which you are comfortable and feel is easy to use. The targets will determine if what you are doing is correct for your mission. Trying to narrow equipment down to every first purchase being perfect can be an exercise in futility and frustration.

 

[lwaters]

Got a lot of stuff in from Midway USA Today and picked up some powder at Powder Valley yesterday. Midway has two big items on backorder. Installed a new overhead light in the work area and will run an electrical outlet tomorrow.
Then I’m building a work bench over the next few weeks!

Charley what powder did you get?

 

[dchamp]

Hello Guys;

If OK with you I would like to seat in the chair next to CAustin Charlie's at the africahunting.com Reloading School 101. Can I please join and ask a few questions?

For context I do not intend to run big batches of ammo at this stage. If I really get into reloading I will later add a progressive press for high volume pistol or .223 ammo (the 5 kids consume a staggering amount ;-), but in the mean time I would like to start with hunting rifle ammo (.243 to .470). In terms of equipment, I would rather buy right than buy cheap then buy twice, but I see no real point in spending more money than necessary to get the right quality equipment.

1) Chronograph: I already have a Caldwell Ballistic Chronograph that I have been using to clock the factory ammo I use.

2) Press: I know zilch but the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme seems perfect. Great reputation. I too need to go up to .470 NE. Other priority candidates are .340 Wby, .257 Wby, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott, and my two boys' 7 Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag (although the PPU ammo for these two is so good and so cheap that there is less motivation).

3) Dies: I would have intuitively gone with RCBS dies on the superficial reasoning that if RCBS is "IT" for the press, then one would assume they have good dies too (?). What is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Redding over RCBS or Hornady for example?

4) Trimmer: same question; what is it to prefer between the various brands? Why Forster over RCBS or others?

5) Powder measure: I notice that Shootist43 Art does not address the subject. Is it because you recommend buying a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit that comes with a scale and powder measure?

6) Do you guys use a powder measure or do you weigh each and every charge? In either case, what it the best method / tool, and what is it to prefer between the various brands?

7) Scale: similar question; a mechanical one comes with the kit. Do you guys use mechanical or electronic scales? Which one? What is it to prefer between the various brands?

8) Powder trickler?

9) Priming: I notice that the kit comes with a hand priming tool. Not sure why since there is a primer arm on the press? Do you prime on the reloading press or by hand or on a separate primer press? Why?

10) I am speculating that the answers to the questions re. scale, powder measure, and priming tool will give the answer to whether one should buy the kit or individual components.

11) Case tumbler?

We will deal with powders in a second step... I suspect I will keep it simple. I spent that last 40 years shooting exclusively Federal Premium and Weatherby factory ammo loaded with Nosler Partition, and they shot well enough in all my rifles. I suspect that the foreseeable future will be focused on Barnes TTSX for the fast calibers and TSX for the DG calibers, and I have a stock pile of 750 DGS and DGX (yep, you read right: 750; 15 boxes !?!?!?) that came essentially free with a set of RCBS dies with the .470 Kreighoff. One of the variables for powder will probably be the various calibers, but I am not chasing 1/2 MOA reloads. Like sgt_zim I have long come to the conclusion that 1 MOA is plenty good enough for hunting purposes. Heck! it is better than what I can shoot from most field positions anyway...

Phoenix Phil Phil when the time comes, are you OK to become my local hands-on mentor (I am in Flagstaff)

I know 'a little bit' about shooting or hunting ;-) but I an a complete beginner with reloading. So, please do not hesitate to be candid about the 'whats' and 'what nots,' I need your advice.

Thank you all in advance.
Pascal

PS: I do not see on your various benches a cigar ashtray. Any specific place you would recommend? (OK just kidding LOL)

One Day, here is what I use and like. If I don't mention some brand it means I have no experience with it and there by have no idea other than to say most brands put out quality products.

#2 Presses. I have the RCBS Rock Chucker and Summit. I use these mostly for case prep. I prefer the Summit while my son prefers the Rock Chucker. Both work well. The obvious difference is the size of the shaft and the way they sit when mounted on your bench. The Summit does not cantilever beyond the edge of the bench the way the Rock Chucker and most presses do. I use a small Lee press for removing primers. It is very handy. I use a Redding Turret press for bullet seating. It is very nice to have seating dies all set up when doing load development for several cartridges. I have a Lee Breech Lock press. It's great for setting up and changing out dies but the thing I don't like about it is at the end of the press stroke it feels spongy. The Rock Chucker has the best feel to me. You feel the positive cam over at the end of the stroke. These thing generally become somewhat subjective but that's my take on it.

#3 Dies. Listing only what brands I have in order of preference. Redding (competition, at least for the seating die), Forster Ultra, RCBS, Hornady & Lee. I think the micrometer seating dies of both Redding and Forster are well worth the extra expense.

#4 Trimmer. I stared with the RCBS hand crank trimmer (get old...quick). I then added the Trim Pro Power Unit to it and have never looked back.

#5-8 Powder measure. I started off throwing charges from the RCBS mechanical dispenser and then trickled the balance onto the balance beam scale. Again this gets old quick. I then got the Charge Master and have never looked back.

#9 Priming. I prefer hand priming. I think you get a better feel in regards to your primer pocket when seating primers. I use the RCBS that came with the kit when I first started hand loading.

#11 Case Tumbler. I have both a RCBS vibrating dry tumbler and a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler. If I am cleaning, say less than a couple of dozen cases I may use the dry tumbler. Any more than that and I will use the wet tumbler. When using the dry tumbler I will leave the primers in the case until after they are cleaned. If I use the wet tumbler I remove the primers before cleaning. Also I think the wet tumbler does a better job on cleaning the inside of the cases.

No cigars allowed. That's a sure way of getting myself shot by the wife.
The Dillon 550 shown in the photo was purchased recently and have not yet used it.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Old news for experienced reloaders but for those new to it, it pays to inspect your brass BEFORE putting it in the tumbler. I had two pieces of Remington .223 brass getting ready for case head separation. Also check for split necks. Brass gets tired.

 

[PHOENIX PHIL]

Old news for experienced reloaders but for those new to it, it pays to inspect your brass BEFORE putting it in the tumbler. I had two pieces of Remington .223 brass getting ready for case head separation. Also check for split necks. Brass gets tired.

View attachment 257878

Also a reason to only full length resize per what YOUR rifle dictates to be full length resizing. It's not the same for all rifles.