Anyone who recommends replacing a well fit McMillan fiberglass stock on a heavy recoiling rifle for a Boyd’s laminate (it will split) or a Bell and Carlson (mostly rigid foam) is sniffing glue.
If you want to add weight, have a stock fitter add weight. You have the perfect place to start. McMillan has been the gold standard for synthetic stocks for decades. Unless it has Edge fill, it’s as heavy or heavier than wood already. Their fiberglass fill is the most rigid, stable, durable product on the market.
So you are saying bell and carlson are shit?....
If it tastes like it and smells like it, yes it is. You will go miles and miles to find a custom rifle builder that recommends or uses them. They are/were used on some Winchester Extreme Weathers for a time because they are cheap and available. Their market is for the guy to buy one and bolt on to his factory gun, shoot it 3 times a year and brag to his buddies about his half inch 3 shot group if he “does his part” only because of that new B&C stock he got at Cabelas.
Have you considered a supressor?
Reduces the recoil and reduces the muzzle blast.
Any weight will help, I do not see any value in Mercury reducers- in fact I think they are less effective than a lead weight. I would take a look at your stock, determine the balance point currently. The old standard of balancing just in front of the trigger guard will guide you. Then tape some lead weights to the stock while keeping it balancing in front of the trigger guard. Add weights fore and aft which you think you can secret in the forend and butt. Then drill and hide the lead inside. I used old cases as lead molds. Just drilled 3 holes in the butt and added the brass cases filled with lead and my rifle was much improved.I bought a Weatherby mark v that was a 257 weatherby in a McMillian fiberglass stock that was converted to 416 rem mag .The person that had ot made asked Weatherby about changing it to 416 rem mag .I do wish it was stainless widh though to make it even better .I have had a bunch of 416 rem mags model 70 win rem 700 and sako .My shoulder is not what it use to be .I think the recoil pad is just a decelorator and glued or screwed on I want the best recoil pad and best muzzlebrake but not the tank kind I hate them.I don't think you can put a mercury recoil reducer in this stock .I have a torn rotator on my right shoulder so it ain't what it use to be .I want to see what's the best to put on this rifle .I also want glow open sites just in case .This is my last 416 I have had 7 still have 4 of them awesome guns .I tried to get a ec tuner made into. 416 but they want make one .unless they make 1000 of them.
OK...so the one on my cz 416 fitted from the factory, and the one cz custom shop supplied me and i picked up from them at sci as i wanted one along with the wood stock on my 500 jeff I got from the custom shop are crap..interesting to know....personally they fit me perfectly and I like them....obviously like crap things for first time in my life....
Just imagine how well you’d like a real synthetic stock
My 416 is light and has a Mcmillan stock that Gene Simillion did and recoil is very tolerable.I think fit is most important.
I agree that adding some strategic weight helps in both balancing and reducing recoilAny weight will help, I do not see any value in Mercury reducers- in fact I think they are less effective than a lead weight. I would take a look at your stock, determine the balance point currently. The old standard of balancing just in front of the trigger guard will guide you. Then tape some lead weights to the stock while keeping it balancing in front of the trigger guard. Add weights fore and aft which you think you can secret in the forend and butt. Then drill and hide the lead inside. I used old cases as lead molds. Just drilled 3 holes in the butt and added the brass cases filled with lead and my rifle was much improved.