Stock painting questions

[clockwork_7mm_gator]

Gents,

1. How necessary is a clear coat over a sponge-applied camo pattern? (I'm not putting down a base coat, just using the black plastic as part of the pattern. The barreled action and other metal is OD green cerakote.)

2. I'm planning to use Krylon paint rather than Brownells aluma hyde... good call?

Thanks!

 

[USMA84DAB]

Aluma Hyde requires a very toxic stripping agent for cleaning the metal before application. My experience with it was not good. Within 200 rounds of use the epoxy had chipped and worn off of my Mauser. Very unusual for a Brownell's product. Krylon is easily re-appliable.

 

[clockwork_7mm_gator]

I wasn't planning to paint anything metal, just plastic.

 

[curtism1234]

Depends how detailed your camo pattern is. It will get scratched and worn off somewhat easy. With a solid color you can just touch it up. If using leaf stencils or something like that, it would be a lot more difficult.

I think a sponge applied paintjob is the way to go. I can never get even coverage from a rattle can

 

[USMA84DAB]

I only painted metal, so my experience with it probably isn't too applicable.

 

[35bore]

I have rattle canned most of my chassis and synthetic stock rifles (the ones I plan on keeping), once done though, if you sell it, value goes down. All that aside, clear coat is not needed, the beauty of rattle can is that if you get a scrape or "wear" spot, you just shoot the spot with more paint. No camo pattern is perfect, but the more f**led up it is the more it blends into your surroundings.

 

[markm]

I have done a few with rattle can and sponge and they have turned out awesome and if you scratch it you just touch it up.tryed clear coat on one stock didn't like the finish.

Depends how detailed your camo pattern is. It will get scratched and worn off somewhat easy. With a solid color you can just touch it up. If using leaf stencils or something like that, it would be a lot more difficult.

I think a sponge applied paintjob is the way to go. I can never get even coverage from a rattle can

 

[Hogpatrol]

What type of plastic stock? Some don't take well with any kind of paint.

 

[clockwork_7mm_gator]

A standard Ruger m77 synthetic (not boat paddle)

 

[35bore]

What type of plastic stock? Some don't take well with any kind of paint.

McMillan, AICS, archangel. I have yet to meet a stock that didn't like rattlecan. Not saying some take it better that others, but so far all mine love their new look. I even did a cheap Houge overmold rubber stock, it requires more frequent touch ups, but it took. Lol

 

[curtism1234]

I have done a few with rattle can and sponge and they have turned out awesome and if you scratch it you just touch it up.tryed clear coat on one stock didn't like the finish.

That would be my problem, I didn't use the sponge with the spray paint --- just sprayed

 

[JLF]

For the paint to adhere to the plastic you need a plastic primer paint.
The first thing is to wash and dry the surface to be painted well.
Sand with 220 to 300 grit. Clean very well and wash with alcohol.
Apply the primer paint for plastics.
Then apply the paint.

 

[Trekker111]

I’ve painted a lot of rifles over the years. I rarely use stencils.

The point of rattle can camo jobs are they are fast, easy, and cheap. They will scratch, chip, and rub off. When they do, you just touch them up with more paint. If the season or conditions change, repaint. They do not last.

If you want something that is intricate or long lasting, cerakote or duracoat it. Since tour barreled action is cerakoted, that’s what I’d go with for a color match to make it look better.