roverandbrew
AH enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2013
- Messages
- 487
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- Hunted
- United States, South Africa, Zambia
Love that 5.7L V8!They are bomb proof. I drive a 19.
In case you are not aware, 19-21 do not have a dedicated transmission cooler. I put a OBD reader on mine and it could get to 230-240 degrees f on a level freeway in the summer. Using 4 hi off-road would spike it bad too. Any towing had to be done in tow haul mode and the tranny in S4, no using 5th or 6th unless very cold out. So the mileage was extra bad due to cruising at 3k+ rpm’s.
I added a tranny cooler, problem solved. Can tow in tow haul mode and tranny in D, mileage is 1.5 - 2.0 mpg better if under 70 mph on level ground. I’d also make sure to get the 38 gallon tank. They are big, so if you plan to do any off-road stuff, I’d upgrade all skid plates if they are not metal and add rock sliders. With the skids, worthwhile to add CAT protectors, they have 4 and are theft targets in some areas. Tundras.com is a good forum with lots of info.
They are bomb proof. I drive a 19.
In case you are not aware, 19-21 do not have a dedicated transmission cooler. I put a OBD reader on mine and it could get to 230-240 degrees f on a level freeway in the summer. Using 4 hi off-road would spike it bad too. Any towing had to be done in tow haul mode and the tranny in S4, no using 5th or 6th unless very cold out. So the mileage was extra bad due to cruising at 3k+ rpm’s.
I added a tranny cooler, problem solved. Can tow in tow haul mode and tranny in D, mileage is 1.5 - 2.0 mpg better if under 70 mph on level ground. I’d also make sure to get the 38 gallon tank. They are big, so if you plan to do any off-road stuff, I’d upgrade all skid plates if they are not metal and add rock sliders. With the skids, worthwhile to add CAT protectors, they have 4 and are theft targets in some areas. Tundras.com is a good forum with lots of info.
You can do it yourself for $500 - $750 I believe, if you can fab a bracket and read your tranny temps. But iirc it is not with parts. Search line and you’ll find several videos about guys that have done it.I have a 21. Good truck. I did have the cam
Tower leak but after the fix (about 14 months now) seems good to go.
Is there anything to look out for re: adding a tranny cooler? One brand/method/location better than another? Can I ask the ballpark you paid for adding that?
I’ve avoided the cam tower issue so far, at 92k. I’ve heard of some head gasket issues, which usually kills the motor. Theory is acidic coolant compromising the gasket. Guys going 100k on the red/orange fluid and the like. So I change the coolant often, every couple years or 30k ish miles, even though it is non silica and recommended to last over 3x as long. .Love that 5.7L V8!
The 200 series Land Cruiser has two transmission coolers: one is actually inside the radiator and the second one is a traditional finned cooler in front of the radiator. The former actually is also a transmission warmer on very cold days using the radiator fluid, which warms very quickly relative to the transmission fluid. One of the many reasons Land Cruisers and the Lexus counterpart are so ridiculously expensive and reliable.
I'm not sure all years have this feature but mine does.
I suspect that @rookhawk is talking about petrol powered vehicles. The FJ is petrol only and … from what I recall, the FJ is not exactly known for its fuel economy here in NZ.Don't know what the heck you're doing to your toyotas but my 2004 Hilux 4x4 still gets 11 lt per 100 km (appox 21.5 mpg US).
The big problem with putting tubes into tubeless tyres, is that: when you lower your tyre pressures for loose/soft conditions, sand or grit can get between tyre and tube. That sand or grit will abrade the softer rubber of the tubes and cause punctures. Tyre technicians hate putting tubes into tubeless tyres and they really hate all the hassle of repairing leaks in those tubes. I followed outdated advice and had to endure the—justifiable—whinges of my regular tyre shop staff, on several occasions. You will also hate repairing a tube if you have to do it during a 4WD excursion. I can vouch that it is much more pleasant to use a plug kit to repair a hole in a tubeless tyre, especially if you are on top of a hill, in the bush, with nice panoramic views of the nearby coastal strip and offshore island.I drive a 2007 Tundra 4x4 TRD with 145K miles. I don't drive it like they do in Africa for one reason--mesquite thorns that supposedly are not repairable due to the hollowness of the thorns. How do they deal with thorns in Africa BTW? Can you just switch over to tubes inside the tires? I have seen almost new offroad tires swapped out for this reason.
Yes. The white 110 is the daily driver.Are all of these yours? Very cool!
Ah! Another plus for the 2003 Envoy acquired last month. It has air springs in the rear. Inside the cargo area on the passenger side I discovered a covered compartment. Inside is a gauge and hose for inflating tires using the compressor for springs. I will be acquiring a tire patch kit. During my second safari a "pineapple bush" poked a hole in my PH's pal's sidewall when hauling out my second kudu. They plugged it and PH pumped it up with compressor mounted in his Toyota. I was always told it was impossible to repair sidewalls. Wrong.T
The big problem with putting tubes into tubeless tyres, is that: when you lower your tyre pressures for loose/soft conditions, sand or grit can get between tyre and tube. That sand or grit will abrade the softer rubber of the tubes and cause punctures. Tyre technicians hate putting tubes into tubeless tyres and they really hate all the hassle of repairing leaks in those tubes. I followed outdated advice and had to endure the—justifiable—whinges of my regular tyre shop staff, on several occasions. You will also hate repairing a tube if you have to do it during a 4WD excursion. I can vouch that it is much more pleasant to use a plug kit to repair a hole in a tubeless tyre, especially if you are on top of a hill, in the bush, with nice panoramic views of the nearby coastal strip and offshore island.
Love the older Defenders! The 110 is my favorite. I’d love to get one and do either a LS or Cummins conversion with Dana driveline…Yes. The white 110 is the daily driver.
Our off road rig & it's a Diesel.
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I couldnt tell you one way or another. I Have a Bronco that I use in the winter because I put the Jeep up to keep it out of the Salt. I hear you on the small fortune, I have more into building the truck than the Truck cost new. That is why We put it up in the winter. It is a blast in the summer months, we call it our Trout Safari rig.Adipose, I had a very similar JK setup like yours. I spent a small fortune on replacing most of the suspension, bumpers, installed the winch, snorkel, re-geared the differential's etc etc.
It would creep through almost anything. But was almost useless on icy roads. A $500 front wheel drive car with Bologna skin tires performed better on ice. Between the suspension, the relatively lightweight and the wide mud tires. If you hit a bump while on ice it disrupted the suspension and you could lose traction and spin out.
Oddly enough I would drive my front wheel drive car most of the winter on Icy roads. If the snow was deep and traffic was slow the Jeep excelled and was in its happy place.
So I built an off-road beast then wondered why it didn’t do so well on pavement
But as you know a Jeep is one of the few American made vehicles that hold or increase in value. I had a guy that bothered me for a couple years to buy my rig. So I finally relented at a great price for me and he was happy to pay. One of the few vehicles I’ve driven for a few years and made money on.