Ruger Hawkeye 375 Ruger barrel thread?

[KuduKiller]

So I’m looking into muzzle brakes and I know my PH will hate me. I’ve taken numerous big game animals with it but I’m tired of that recoil. I’m considering a Terminator T5 brake but which thread do I need? My barrel is not threaded and the front sight blade is sitting on the end of the barrel. I have contacted a gun smith about the threading of my barrel. The threads 7/8x20, 7/8x24 and 3/4x24 are available on the terminator. Which might be the best for my barrel?

 

[Mark Biggerstaff]

Your PH and nearby onlookers will hate you for sure. Can't help with the thread choice. But instead of ruining the end of the barrel with a muzzle brake, have you considered a recoil reducer in the buttstock. I use them on 375 and 458 Lott. Tames it down quite a a lot. As I despise muzzle brakes

 

[AZDAVE]

Your PH and nearby onlookers will hate you for sure. Can't help with the thread choice. But instead of ruining the end of the barrel with a muzzle brake, have you considered a recoil reducer in the buttstock. I use them on 375 and 458 Lott. Tames it down quite a a lot. As I despise muzzle brakes

I concur with Mark, muzzle breaks are just to loud and hurt everyone's ears. Practice off sticks till the 375 recoil feel minimal. If you are going to run a suppressor that is a different story. any decent gunsmith should be able to remove the front sight and measure the barrel diameter and thread to the suppressor.

 

[Firebird]

AZDAVE beat me to it-why not a suppressor? Your ph will love you for it. Legislation in the states has become more friendly and in some countries you can buy them over the counter. Or are you trying to preserve the open sights?
Also agree with addding a reducer in the buttstock or other weight gaining procedures would be preferable to a muzzle break in my opinion.

 

[Deepfork]

I agree with the rest. Muzzle breaks are dangerous, instant hearing damage if you or anyone around you can't or does not have time to protect themselves. I have a couple of compensated silencers including one I shoot on my .375 Ruger, it makes a huge difference.

Wait time on silencers is not bad right now. We are getting most of ours back in 10-30 days.

 

[Philip Glass]

So I’m looking into muzzle brakes and I know my PH will hate me. I’ve taken numerous big game animals with it but I’m tired of that recoil. I’m considering a Terminator T5 brake but which thread do I need? My barrel is not threaded and the front sight blade is sitting on the end of the barrel. I have contacted a gun smith about the threading of my barrel. The threads 7/8x20, 7/8x24 and 3/4x24 are available on the terminator. Which might be the best for my barrel?

I was once just like you and did use a brake. Over time, with much practice I moved away from it. Use a shoulder pad at the range and shoot off sticks a lot.
I would never thread a barrel that was not standard threads that I could use for a suppressor. Speaking of a suppressor, how about going that route instead of the brake? Thunderbeast has a new line of .375 cans plus all the others.

 

[gbflyer]

Without getting into advice for or against a brake, here is a fairly good, albeit a bit conservative representation of what you need for a minimum barrel diameter for different threads.

 

[wildwilderness]

Have you looked at Porting the rifle? Magna Port is a common name in the industry. Used to be done a lot more before muzzle breaks and now suppressors became popular/available.


Keeps the more traditional look of a front sight and minimal noise increase. Not as much recoil reduction as a brake but most claim it is noticeable and beneficial.

I have sworn off muzzle breaks for hunting due to excessive noise and am moving to suppressors. I personally have never owned a ported rifle but my bro in law has and he prefers it to a brake.

But Suppressed is the future for sure!

 

[ActionBob]

So a few things here. Not in order of my personal preference.

1.Suppressors are cheap and available over the counter in South Africa. Check with your PH or a member over there as to ability to buy one when you arrive and what threads it takes. Thread the gun for that Suppressor and get a muzzle brake to fit those threads. Practice at home with both ear plugs and muffs. Install the Suppressor and check sight in over there. Leave the Suppressor with your Outfitter, PH, or at a place lime Afton House so you can use it again on a subsequent trip. Or gift it to someone over there.

A footnote is that you need to be sure you get the rifle threaded for a Suppressor. They are a lot longer than a brake and if the threads are off it can be catastrophic.

2. Buy a titanium or other strong buy lightweight Suppressor and use that instead of a brake.

Do not port the rifle unless it is something you really want. I would not buy a ported rifle.

3. This is what I would do. Install a mercury tube or Dead Mule recoil reducer in the stock. Be sure the rifle fits you properly. If you are reaching to see through the scope, mount it lower or get a pad to raise the cheek rest on the stock. Be sure it has a good recoil pad. These are all relatively low cost and zero negative value to the rifle.

If that doesn't do it and you are concerned about balance of the rifle, add a small recoil reducer in the forend or just add some lead.

@Just Gina is a thin little woman with beat up shoulders that dislocated easily. She was advised to get a 404 Jeffrey because it would not kick any worse than a 375. Well launching a 400 grain bullet produces more recoil than a 300 grain. Of course you can play with the speed which is another thing to consider. If you are shooting Hornady Superformance 300 grain loads, consider something more in line with standard speeds. Even 200 fps will make a big difference in recoil.

But back to the point. Adding weight and especially in the form of a mercury tube. Getting the rifle to "fit". Having a good recoil pad. And having standard proven velocity ammo, Gina shoots that 404 Jeffrey with no problems at all now where it was originally beating her up!

No need for a brake nor a Suppressor.

 

[Doug Hamilton]

So I’m looking into muzzle brakes and I know my PH will hate me. I’ve taken numerous big game animals with it but I’m tired of that recoil. I’m considering a Terminator T5 brake but which thread do I need? My barrel is not threaded and the front sight blade is sitting on the end of the barrel. I have contacted a gun smith about the threading of my barrel. The threads 7/8x20, 7/8x24 and 3/4x24 are available on the terminator. Which might be the best for my barrel?

Something I did with my .458 WM, which was a vicious kicker, that helped a lot. I had it Mag-Na-Port ed. The ports vent a little gas up and some down. The recoil and muzzle rise are greatly reduced. The best part is that without vents to the side there is no noticeable increased muzzle blast. They do not have to remove the front sight and there is no obnoxious bulge at the end of the barrel.

I shot at the range a few days ago. I was next to a guy with a 6.5 PRC, and a muzzle brake. Even with quality ear muffs the noise and blast were severe. I can only guess how bad it would have been without hearing protection. The PH and trackers are working for you. You owe it to them not to subject them to unnecessary hearing abuse.

 

[WI-2021]

I had my .375 Alaskan threaded and installed a brake, but that was just as a suppressor mount. It hasn't been fired without the suppressor since. I went 5/8-24 and used a Griffin EZ Brake to mount my Rex MG7. The barrel diameter on these isn't all that large and I needed a good shoulder for the can, hence the choice of 5/8-24.

My gunsmith had some trouble with the job. He said he's usually able to salvage the original front sight when he removes it. He then reams it and reinstalls it behind the threads. In my case, he couldn't get it off without damaging it, so it had to be replaced. I don't recall the price, but it was definitely the most expensive threading job I've ever had done. Mine, being stainless, just needed a quick bead blast after the job. If yours is blued, a refinish will be needed as well, so add that to the cost.

The brake/can combo reduced recoil slightly. Replacing the 1/2" hockey puck on the butt with a 1" Decelerator made a bigger difference. I didn't cut the stock, so my LOP is now 14" which helps some too. Before adding a brake, I'd recommend getting a good recoil pad and adding a bit of weight to the rifle if you haven't already. I don't recall what my .375 Alaskan weighed bare, but my .375 African is only 7 3/4 lbs, which is too light for a .375 IMO. Adding about 1 lb of lead to the stock would be ideal. Distribute it between butt and forearm to get the balance you want.

FWIW, I can still (barely) use the factory sights with the suppressor attached.

 

[Daisy]

Suppressor all the way!

I used a brake for one season. They are awful. You can feel the concussive blast, and it rattles your brain. I feel like it can make a flinch worse than the extra recoil does.

Agree with recoil reducer. I have one installed in my blaser r8 and helps a ton also. 1” good pad helps also!