Questions about a Browning Safari Rifle in .375 H&H

BryceM

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I know some of you are sagacious gun nuts compared to me. A few years ago I inherited a Browning Safari rifle in .375 H&H. It has a butter-smooth action and it’s quite pleasant to shoot. The family member who died acquired it only a few years before from a source unknown to me.

I’m dimly aware of the “salt stock” problem some of these had. IIRC, this family member had some assurance that this rifle wasn’t affected, but I have no proof of that. There’s enough wear and rub on the blueing that it seems to have seen some action. It shoots well under 1 MOA at 100 with my hand loads, so that’s a plus.

I don’t see much discussion about these rifles here. Anyone love them? Anyone hate them?

There’s also another Browning Safari rifle in .458 Win. I don’t yet have that one in my possession, but I’ll most likely end up with it eventually.

On my one and only DG safari to date I used a CZ 550 in .416 Rigby. I’m a big fan of that rifle and cartridge, but the .375 H&H might need a trip “over there” too.

A penny for your thoughts….
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Nice Rifle!
 
One of the best magazine rifles there ever was. The only issue is that the factory magazine coil spring needs to be replaced with a stronger aftermarket one. Otherwise, recoil from the first shot can sometimes cause the magazine floor plate to spring open when using American made ammunition (strangely enough, this would rarely occur when German RWS ammunition was being used). After 1970, quality began to deteriorate once Fabrique Nationale began to omit the bolt guide.

In regards to the salt cured stock issue, it is only an issue for rifles & shotguns made from 1966 until 1972. To tell, you need to remove a screw or two or remove the barreled action from the stock. If real bad, you can tell by dark spotting on the stock where it touches steel. All the salt cured rifle stocks which I’ve ever seen were of Claro wood, not Walnut wood.
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Replace the treated lumber with a high quality walnut or whatever good to exotic wood, free float the barrel, and have fun hunting with it.

You have virtually have a magnificent rifle, that needs some, not much improvement.

Salt and metal don't mix well.
 
Totally functional and solid rifle. I’d run through the checks to verify wood condition but honestly I think very few in the big picture were affected by that, and you’d probably be able to tell straight away if it is a salt gun.

If it shoots that good I wouldn’t mess with it at all—-go hunting. The 375 is the right caliber to have that model in…the 458 barrel is pretty thin and recoil is stout, I’ve had one.
 
Fantastic rifles, and I consider myself fortunate to own three of them currently: a 1960 FN long action in 30-06, a 1965 short action based on the Sako L579 in 243 Win, and a 1968 FN magnum length action in 308 Norma Magnum (probably my favorite rifle in my whole collection). They are of very high quality and craftsmanship by today's standards, and are a lot of rifle for the money (even more so 10 years ago). All three of mine are very good shooters as well (as long as I do my part).

As others have said, the salt wood issue is mostly isolated to the Claro wood guns (mainly the higher level Medallion and Olympian grades), but I have seen a few Safari grades in person that were affected. You can spot the telltale signs such as darkened wood and rusty screws. You can also verify with a silver nitrate test. Although my 1968 in 308 Norma Mag falls into the salt wood period, I am fortunate that it shows absolutely no signs of being affected; something that surely would have manifested by now, some 56 years later.

I'm curious as to what year your rifle is manufactured. Let us know the serial number prefix; is it a simple letter such as an "L", or is it a two digit prefix such as "8L"? BTW, the "L" indicates a Safari Grade for the FN-actioned guns (the Sako-based guns were different).

I love the idea of a Safari Grade in 375 H&H; I think it's an ideal caliber for that rifle, and if I ever run across one in good condition at the righe price it will probably come home with me. I don't think I'd want one in 458 WM, though; the recoil would be more than I'd want to tolerate. But at the right price...

Congratulations on a fine rifle, and I'd simply work up a good load for it and get out there and hunt. Cheers! :-)
 
@cash_tx, The serial number starts with 7L. So…. 1967?
 
You guys are great! Thanks for all the info.

There’s something fun about hunting with a rifle older than you are.

As far as the .458 goes……. Seems like an awfully light rifle for caliber. Possibly not that much fun to shoot…..
 
Where any of these Browning Safari grades made with the Sako action?

I know some browning used Sako. Just wondering about this model caliber.

Thanks
 
Yes they were. Look for Sako L579 and L461 actions. I own L579 in .308, .243, .22-250, and .284. Have L461 in .222 and .222 Rem Mag.
 
I would send this to Art Guns https://artsgunshop.com and pay for a complete cleaning and ask if you have a salt gun. If a salt gun, that can restock and repair the metal. I would not send a Browning anywhere else for service.

 
Where any of these Browning Safari grades made with the Sako action?

I know some browning used Sako. Just wondering about this model caliber.

Thanks
Yes, they used a slightly modified Sako L579 action for some of the small and medium calibers such as 243, 284, and 308 Winchester. They are distinct in a few ways, including that the top of the action where you mount a scope steps down from the front to the rear, unlike the standard Sako L579's that are completely level. You can find some interesting info at this thread, and here is an example of my 1865 Browning Safari Grade in 243 Winchester with the Sako L579 action.

PS - it's also interesting to note that, while most of small/medium caliber Safari Grades were built on the Sako L579 actions, there was a brief period early on in the run where some of them were built on FN actions.

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Seems like I remember that a member had a dangerous experience due to the bolt stop or some such thing. @Red Leg? I could be misremembering
 
Seems like I remember that a member had a dangerous experience due to the bolt stop or some such thing. @Red Leg? I could be misremembering
That is correct. I took my first buffalo with a custom rifle built in .375 on a FN Mauser action. Rather than the simple mauser bolt release lever, this one has a toggle like hinge in the same location. My second morning in Namibia many years ago and a day before were to head to the Caprivi, I used it to take PG animal. As I quickly worked the bolt, I suddenly discovered it in my right hand and rifle in my left. I immediately concluded that could prove unfortunate with an inbound buffalo.

What I discovered was that this particular bolt release had to be kept spotlessly clean or it would occasionally fail. Spotlessly clean and much of Africa do not naturally go together, and that particular rifle has stayed home since.

I have no idea how many if any Browning rifles may have been blessed with this improvement.
 
That is correct. I took my first buffalo with a custom rifle built in .375 on a FN Mauser action. Rather than the simple mauser bolt release lever, this one has a toggle like hinge in the same location. My second morning in Namibia many years ago and a day before were to head to the Caprivi, I used it to take PG animal. As I quickly worked the bolt, I suddenly discovered it in my right hand and rifle in my left. I immediately concluded that could prove unfortunate with an inbound buffalo.

What I discovered was that this particular bolt release had to be kept spotlessly clean or it would occasionally fail. Spotlessly clean and much of Africa do not naturally go together, and that particular rifle has stayed home since.

I have no idea how many if any Browning rifles may have been blessed with this improvement.
Did yours look something like this?

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