Bas
AH enthusiast
- Joined
- May 5, 2018
- Messages
- 392
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- 211
- Location
- Morgantown WV
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- NRA Life Member
Yeah I will most likely have it bedded before I shoot it
Also consider pillars while bedding.
Yeah I will most likely have it bedded before I shoot it
How would I know if it needs it?
I was going to do it to protec the stock
I think the CZ 550 magnums are kinda bulky compared to the Winchesters. I own both and like both. Its just preference i guess. The CZ feels a little softer while firing cause of the bulk while the m70 feels more agile but is almost unpleasant to shoot repeatedly. But im a younger man so its not to much a factor yet... I have a beautiful beautiful m70 in 338 win mag thats about the most unpleasant thing to shoot ive ever had. The rifle is just way to light so it sits most of the time. Infact I haven't shot it in about 2 years.
Maybe consider mercury recoil reduction and a different pad for your. 338. Too good of a weapon to just collect dust.
On another tack, I'm contemplating getting another 70 375HH and converting it to 404 Jef. I like the way the 70 fits me and handles but I don't want to be hammered into the next county by recoil. I've done a lot of reading in threads here comparing 404 and 416 and it seems the 404 will do just about everything the 416 will without knocking your teeth out. Can the conversion be made without a major overhaul and is it economically feasible? I've read up on the CZ but have not handled one yet. Maybe at the SCI show in Jan. Comments and thoughts, please.
How heavy is your M70 in 338 Win Mag? Is it wood stocked or synthetic? My older son has LH M70 Classic (CRF) in 416 Rem. It's pretty damn heavy but with a good recoil pad and a mercury recoil reducer in the stock it's fine to shoot offhand. We use a lead sled for all of our bench shooting with the big bores. Another easy cure is to shoot my 500 Jeffery. He shot my 500 and then shot his 338 and said "I guess I really don't need a muzzle brake"
That is a bunch of shooting.I shot my 375h&h today about 25 times
my 460 about 20-25 times
plus a lightweight 308 win. 15-20 shots.
I shot my 375h&h today about 25 times and my 460 about 20-25 times plus a lightweight 308 win. 15-20 shots.
I still have a few new cz actions to build a rifle or two with that appear that they do not suffer the rough finish that new ones seem to be plagued with.
I love a beautiful flat top and believe that's the way all rifles should have been built after the guy who said scopes were a " passing fancy" was proven wrong.
Ruger did a fine job with their receivers in that respect.
I am pretty impressed as our friend " BAS" is most assuridly yet another example of a recoil proof human being. The 460 is a round that many can not shoot because of recoil, but if you can I have never seen anything not fall down when hit right.
I have never shot 25 of those rounds in one day even with a silencer in place. Without one I've shot 7 before I surrendered. I'm good all day with the 375 and 235 gr bullets.
I still have a few new cz actions to build a rifle or two with that appear that they do not suffer the rough finish that new ones seem to be plagued with.
I love a beautiful flat top and believe that's the way all rifles should have been built after the guy who said scopes were a " passing fancy" was proven wrong.
Ruger did a fine job with their receivers in that respect.
I am pretty impressed as our friend " BAS" is most assuridly yet another example of a recoil proof human being. The 460 is a round that many can not shoot because of recoil, but if you can I have never seen anything not fall down when hit right.
I have never shot 25 of those rounds in one day even with a silencer in place. Without one I've shot 7 before I surrendered. I'm good all day with the 375 and 235 gr bullets.
The one thing I would recommend on a Win 70 Classic CRF is to have the action drilled and tapped for 8-40 screws to attach the scope bases (instead of the factory 6-48 screws), and to Red Loctite high tensile strength Torx screws (the Leupold are good) in place at 35 inch/lbs torque after thoroughly degreasing the holes and screws with acetone. Actually, if we were in Europe I would have the bases silver soldered on the action, gunsmiths are used to do that over there to attach scope bases on doubles. I would of course use QD rings (Talley bases and rings are good. So are Warnes, etc.) and as @Von S. stated, I would make sure the iron sights are regulated properly to YOUR way of looking through them.
The one objective advantage of the CZ 550 action over the Win 70 Classic is that it has integral scope bases. That it one less thing to go wrong (oh yes bases get loose after a few hundred shots on high recoil guns - which the .375 is on the edge of).
Conversely, the one objective advantage that the Win 70 Classic has over the CZ 550 is that it has a true firing-pin-blocking safety (the CZ only has a trigger blocking safety). This must be replaced on a gun that will be carried in the bush with a loaded chamber during potentially hours-long follow ups on a blood trail
I also like the fact that the CZ 550 rear sight base is integral to the barrel and the front sight is banded. They will not fall off (oh yes, it happens). The Win 70 sights are attached with screws that are likely to get loose at some point.
Since it is easier to add the 3 position safety on the CZ550 than it would be in most places to silver-solder scope bases on the Win 70 (heck! I would weld them if I could!), my personal choice would be a CZ 550 with an after-market Winchester type 3 position safety (Gentry, Lapour, American Hunting Rifle).
I would also put a Bell & Carlson Kevlar stock with integral aluminum bedding block and pillars on either rifle, to eliminate the risk of cracking in dry heat and warping in high humidity (oh yes, that too happens).
I reckon that if Winchester modified slightly their machining process to have integral dovetails on the Win 70 CRF action (like Sako does), and it they had integral rear sight base (I think they restarted doing so on the Alaskan), a barrel band front sling mount and a banded front sight, they would arguably have a darn near ideal package. I would take mine stainless and Kevlar, but it would work too blued and walnut.
Anyone knows a decision maker at Winchester?
Just my $0.02
View attachment 257203
Mine is in .416 Rigby, but the same concepts applies to one in .375 H&H
I hesitate to post this but since its the truth........
Did some research lately about sights and barrel installation. When I was working use of a mill was available. No longer. I know that soldering has been done for years, I also know soldering has on occasion come apart. I wanted a DIY approach and came across Loctite 380. Research this for yourself.
I timidly put a rear express sight on my .460 with it and it came off on the 3rd shot. I saw only about 2/3 of the sight made contact with the barrel. After finding that even cured 380 can be removed with acetone and rubbing with rag or q-tips, I taped off my stock and barrel where the compond didn't belong.
This 380 is runny so plan accordingly. I also placed grit paper on the barrel and rubbed the bottom of the sight on it until complete contact was achieved. Totally covered the sight base in 380 and placed it on the barrel. It gave me adequate time to level the sight before set up. Do it asap just to be sure. With the loads mentioned above it held. Fingers crossed.
It recommends to clamp object in place but I had nothing to use.
After curing I cleaned up run off as described above. Don't know how it will hold up, time will tell .
YOUR DISCRETION !!!
. . . If you are not going to shoot past 300 yards and " click " your life away with the turrets I suggest that you just don't have them at all. Yea! I know, they look cool but they stick out and bang into things. . . .