Question on .375 H&H rifle

[ActionBob]

Im looking at the Winchester 70 in .375 H&H.
My question is, right out of the box what does the rifle need to be Dangerious game ready? I.E. trigger job, bolt polish anything?

Pull it apart to get the trigger assembly out. Back out the screw that sets the trigger pull. It won't get lighter than about 3 pounds which is about perfect for me at least in a .375. Double check this just in case you get one that is different, ut mine came new set a bit heavy. Then as long as you have it apart, clean it up. Mine actually had some small shavings from the stock laying in there...

Then carefully put it together. Torque the screws according to specs. If you decide to not pull it apart, at least check the torque on the screws as prescribed in the owner's manual. Mount the scope of your choice. Sight in and practice

 

[PHOENIX PHIL]

Really Phil? Ok!

For a very long time pretty much well all stocks from big factory guns have had their stocks .made without any assistance from a human. Complete computer control and machining. Machining so perfect that you can't slip a weezer hair between the surfaces.

I have had people who have wanted to have epoxy over extremely precise full length action aluminium bedding frames as if somehow that could make things better.

The truth be known is that there are damned few rifles in the past 25 years that weren't inletted with a perfection that I could never achieve and for the most part there are damned few who even know how to do it correctly to begin with.

Of course their is the friend who is a jet engine mechanic who can bed anything, because after all , they just don't let just anyone work on jet engines....right?

And eventually after the accountant and the jet engine mechanic get done and they now can't get the steel away from the wood and they stand there scratching each others asses and lamenting how maybe it was that second bottle of 25 year old might be where things started to go wrong they see me and I look at them and say, "you boys did a good job gluing that action in there" it is then and only then that they should have listened to me 2 weeks ago when I told them that bedding it was a waste of money in a rifle that will never fire a killing shot over 100 yards and I turned down free and easy money.

Ya gotta love it!

Well okie dokie then, I was just trying to answer your question.

 

[sestoppelman]

Chances are good that the recoil lug area is already bedded in what Win calls "thermoplastic", ie. Hot Glue! LOL. However it seems to be fairly effective and is stronger than the wood. If its bedded as such I would leave it alone. But as Phil says, shoot it first.

 

[ChrisG]

They come with the lugs factory bedded already to evenly distribute recoil forces to the wood. If you decide you want to bed it under the first few inches of the barrel and under the tang, all the power to you. I don't think it is going to make a bit of difference on this rifle. Mine shot better than I could ever shoot it right out of the box. Recoil is comparatively mild and the stock is actually massively overbuilt for a .375 H&H. They used the same exact stock to make the .458 Win Mag version of this rifle. If that rifle holds up to that level of recoil. The .375 will give you lifelong, trouble free service.

 

[D.M.V]

You could also look at a CZ 550, Mine is bone stock and a great shooter and the stock trigger is already good

 

[Tom Leoni]

You *need* to do absolutely nothing. Today's factory rifles are good to go out of the box. Scope it right, then the necessary amount of testing and breaking in--true even for a $30,000 custom rifle--will tell you if by any unlucky fluke, you get the one in a thousand exception to the rule.

Let me repeat: you *need* to do absolutely nothing. If you on the other hand *want* to go down the rabbit-hole of customization (which is perfectly fine--these are our toys, after all), your imagination and your bank account are the only limits.

Good luck and have fun with it.

 

[bruce moulds]

trigger, trigger, trigger.
the biggest single thing you can usually do to improve how you shoot a rifle is to maximize trigger control.
heavy triggers minimize trigger control.
most factory triggers are well adjusted for creep and overtravel (backlash), but can be on the heavy side.
weight of pull can be adjusted by all but the most incompetent by doing a bit of homework first.
best weight of pull is a personal thing.
bruce.

 

[Gert Odendaal]

No need to bed it ....you only bed a rifle that shoot flyers since then there is a pressure point somewhere , although bedding ensures a strengthen stock as well ...a recoil lug /cross bolt extra will be great if you want to make this a real dangerous game rifle and a charge stopper I suggest you shoot 350 to 380 gn bullets ...make sure there is a little space around the back of your rifle tang..impact sometimes cause cracks if the tang is inlet-ted with extremely tight tolerances...that will be your rifle stock`s weak point....
Take a look at this tread/post on our forum..
https://www.africahunting.com/threads/rhino-bullets-380-grains-for-375-h-h-magnum.526/

 

[Milehighshooter]

Gert,

Winchester 70 safari rifles already come with cross bolts from the factory.

If you want to bed the stock to raidssave the hot glue "bedding" it's a practical choice and peace of mind. I do that in my m70's. That glue is very flexible, especially when it gets warm.

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Milenhighshooter, Johan Greyling use this epoxy to do all the bedding in the rifles he build. I found this material easy to work with, we use cobra floor polish as a release agent...

 

[fourfive8]

If you have the experience to do it right (other wise get a good gunsmith to do it), any or all rifles can use a trigger check and setting if needed. Really very easy on the pre-FN Winchester trigger. I use a trigger scale to check my triggers for weight (even a decent fish scale will work fine)- then set with little or no creep to between 3-4 lbs for DG rifle. Then I pillar and full length bed them whether they need it or not (or have a good gunsmith do it). Then I KNOW there is very little chance for much change of point of impact no matter the handling, wetness, dryness or temperature changes. Also, the bedding helps prevent wood split out- which many will do over time no matter the care of the original inletting.

Then as others have said- cycle the crud out of it fast and hard with the types of ammo you plan on using. You need to practice fast and hard cycling which will be done under stress anyway when the time comes with DG no matter the effect of the first shot!

By doing these preps before the hunt- I have NEVER had any surprises during the hunt with any of my rifles. The only remaining pre-hunt rifle check would be the sights and/or scope and mounts.

 

[Newboomer]

I have a box stock model 70 Safari Express 375HH and it shoots anything I feed it for 1 to 2 inches at 100 yards. I suggest you take yours out and just shoot it with whatever you like. I'm thinking you won't have to touch a thing.

On another tack, I'm contemplating getting another 70 375HH and converting it to 404 Jef. I like the way the 70 fits me and handles but I don't want to be hammered into the next county by recoil. I've done a lot of reading in threads here comparing 404 and 416 and it seems the 404 will do just about everything the 416 will without knocking your teeth out. Can the conversion be made without a major overhaul and is it economically feasible? I've read up on the CZ but have not handled one yet. Maybe at the SCI show in Jan. Comments and thoughts, please.

 

[BeeMaa]

On another tack, I'm contemplating getting another 70 375HH and converting it to 404 Jef. I like the way the 70 fits me and handles but I don't want to be hammered into the next county by recoil. I've done a lot of reading in threads here comparing 404 and 416 and it seems the 404 will do just about everything the 416 will without knocking your teeth out. Can the conversion be made without a major overhaul and is it economically feasible? I've read up on the CZ but have not handled one yet. Maybe at the SCI show in Jan. Comments and thoughts, please.

https://www.africahunting.com/threads/advice-404-jeffrey-or-416-rigby-for-a-first-dg-rifle.25927/

Along with the ballistics and recoil, consider the availability of ammo for the chosen cartridge.

 

[Newboomer]

I'm thinking 416RM, not Rigby. RM is quite available here in the US and Win 70 Safari Express is common. Good point on 404 components and factory loads. I haven't seen either or the rifles. It would have to be a custom job and I'd have to find a source for fodder.

 

[Dr Ray]

Im looking at the Winchester 70 in .375 H&H.
My question is, right out of the box what does the rifle need to be Dangerious game ready? I.E. trigger job, bolt polish anything?

I have my triggers at 1.5 lb except by 300 WM which is three quarters and my 416 Remington mag at 3 lbs.
I used to do competition shooting so like my triggers set low.
And importantly ensure your sighting in is correct.

 

[ve7poi]

I'm thinking 416RM, not Rigby. RM is quite available here in the US and Win 70 Safari Express is common. Good point on 404 components and factory loads. I haven't seen either or the rifles. It would have to be a custom job and I'd have to find a source for fodder.

Easy conversion did mine shoots like a dream even from prone mag box needs two spacers on outside ground off then it fits 3 down mine started as a 416 Rem.

 

[D.M.V]

I think the CZ 550 magnums are kinda bulky compared to the Winchesters. I own both and like both. Its just preference i guess. The CZ feels a little softer while firing cause of the bulk while the m70 feels more agile but is almost unpleasant to shoot repeatedly. But im a younger man so its not to much a factor yet... I have a beautiful beautiful m70 in 338 win mag thats about the most unpleasant thing to shoot ive ever had. The rifle is just way to light so it sits most of the time. Infact I haven't shot it in about 2 years.

 

[Von S.]

trigger, trigger, trigger.
the biggest single thing you can usually do to improve how you shoot a rifle is to maximize trigger control.
heavy triggers minimize trigger control.
most factory triggers are well adjusted for creep and overtravel (backlash), but can be on the heavy side.
weight of pull can be adjusted by all but the most incompetent by doing a bit of homework first.
best weight of pull is a personal thing.
bruce.

Bruce,

You are pretty passionate in your reply. I like that.

A light crisp trigger is a fine thing indeed, especially if you are shooting prone or off a bench, but an off hand leaning forward Magnum shot with a 45 caliber or better at something possibly moving and smooth is great, but a wee bit of poundage will actually make the shooter hit where he's aiming at much better.

 

[BeeMaa]

I think the CZ 550 magnums are kinda bulky compared to the Winchesters. I own both and like both. Its just preference i guess. The CZ feels a little softer while firing cause of the bulk while the m70 feels more agile but is almost unpleasant to shoot repeatedly. But im a younger man so its not to much a factor yet... I have a beautiful beautiful m70 in 338 win mag thats about the most unpleasant thing to shoot ive ever had. The rifle is just way to light so it sits most of the time. Infact I haven't shot it in about 2 years.

Magazine capacity of the CZ is 5 (375H&H) while the Winchester is 3 in the same caliber, which goes to the bulk I believe.
I have a CZ550 and love it because it's so easy to shoot.
It's not exactly light or what's described as lively, but it points naturally and is tough as nails.
I have a friend with a Win 70 in 458WM that he keeps around only to watch others shoot it, and watch them cry afterwards.
Kinda sick really, but I know that with proper practice the M70 in 458WM could be mastered by almost anybody.
I'm just not there yet, working on it...but not yet.

 

[Bas]

I have a new model 70 Alaskan in .375. It is accurate, good looking, and functions fine. Mine wears a Leupold vx3 2.5-8 mounted on Leupold QR rings, they have been trouble free so far. My only complaint is that I would have liked a barrel mounted sling swivel.

Go for it. Anyone tells you a barrel band is not needed on any gun .375h&h and up is just telling you they haven't shot these calibers much from the bench. I just put one on my .375 and .460 Weatherby. You don't want a big boomer forearm mounted stud to catch your hand. Ask me how I know !