Problem with ruger M77 RLS in 270

Soak the bolt in some cheap scotch. Cleans out everything!!

Seriously, maybe soaking it in Hoppes, or WD, or such could help, but best to disassemble and clean. Be careful of any parts that go flying!
 
Brake and carburetor cleaner works wonders on built up gunk.

Just don't get any on the stock.
 
Glad you found the problem. If soaking doesn’t work you’ll need to take the ejector and spring out and clean it good. You carefully drive the pin out and keep your hand in front of the bolt face to catch the parts. Putting it back together it helps to have 3 hands to hold the ejector in while tapping tie pin back in.. It can fly away real easy.

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Glad you found the problem. If soaking doesn’t work you’ll need to take the ejector and spring out and clean it good. You carefully drive the pin out and keep your hand in front of the bolt face to catch the parts. Putting it back together it helps to have 3 hands to hold the ejector in while tapping tie pin back in.. It can fly away real easy.

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Yeah that's what the guy on the YouTube video said when I looked to see how to take bolt apart...why I didn't take that part off ...but looks like might not have any choice....strange as firing pin assembly when took out were clean...so seems strange the ejector pin could have crap in there...
 
When removing that pin, put the bolt in a plastic bag or pillowcase. That way it can’t launch the spring and plunger into orbit.

seriously though, I would bet that the spring broke in there or similar. It’s going to be a bear to reinstall as the tool for it locks onto the lugs to hold the spring and plunger compressed while you insert the pin.
 
Back in my younger days when I enjoyed taking everything completely apart and putting things back together I grabbed my Ruger 77 and went to work on it. I remember taking the extractor plunger out and stripped the bolt down to bare metal. I remember fighting to get that plunger back in properly but if I remember right I ended up using a small nail to hold things in place as I placed the pin in.

With the nail being smaller than the hole in the bolt it went in very easy and then as I put the pin in I just manipulated the nail, plunger, and pin until it all went back together.

There were a few items that I pulled apart in those days that I struggled with for quite a while, but I always managed to get everything back in working condition without a lot of the actual tools that were recommended to do the job. This was with automotive engines and transmissions also.
 
Back in my younger days when I enjoyed taking everything completely apart and putting things back together I grabbed my Ruger 77 and went to work on it. I remember taking the extractor plunger out and stripped the bolt down to bare metal. I remember fighting to get that plunger back in properly but if I remember right I ended up using a small nail to hold things in place as I placed the pin in.

With the nail being smaller than the hole in the bolt it went in very easy and then as I put the pin in I just manipulated the nail, plunger, and pin until it all went back together.

There were a few items that I pulled apart in those days that I struggled with for quite a while, but I always managed to get everything back in working condition without a lot of the actual tools that were recommended to do the job. This was with automotive engines and transmissions also.
I've done the same thing, using a small nail. Another time, I just gave up and went to a local gunsmith. He reassembled the bolt while I waited. It took him all of 5 minutes.
 
OK...update...last night got a WhatsApp with a YouTube video to look for...said looks like you will need a pin and rubber mallet to try break the ejector pin free....couldn't find the video, but this morning off we went to the workshop and put the bolt in the vice....then tried couple of things to force the pin down so could hit it with a hammer...eventually settled on a longish nail. I flattened the end a bit....I held the pin down as needed fingers from both hands to force it and hold it...syd then hit the nail with the hammer....as the nail slipped off after 3 or 4 hits I was kinda worried about my fingers...after doing it 8 or so times we had enough and I wanted my fingers intact....so back to the house....put the bolt back in and put the empty case in...tried to close the bolt....and oh yeah it closed with only slight bit of effort...bit like a round is slightly long but the bolt closes ....opened and checked the rim...Still a dent but no where near as bad...so scooted off to the range....First 4 shots off the cruiser bonnet at 50 yards

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Adjusted to left and was just above the bull....so then I thought I would see if the ruger mounts worked like QD ones...took off the scope and then tried it with the iron sights....mmm without the scope its very light and it felt like I was shooting my 416...but probably worse as my 416 is pleasant...the 2 shots were little bit high but central so left those to another time...put the scope back on....and no it seems they don't work like QD mounts...shooting left..adjusted right and was back on....so thanks for all the help and advice...Will put some more solvent down the pin and work it more...but am fine with how it is now....didn't fancy taking the pin out as if it was a mess trying to put back....not much here to sort it.....
 
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Great to hear you got it shooting again Mike. That additional solvent should help.
 
Excellent group! It's a shooter.
 
You could try the fix they teach at Remington armorers school for 700 ejectors…

Sometimes, you get rust on the ejector spring that freezes it to the sides of the hole. A temp fix is to soak it in penetrating oil, let it sit, then tap the ejector with a pin punch and mallet, driving it into its well firmly but not hard enough to damage the retaining pin. You can also apply heat, assuming nothing there can melt. I’ve broken them loose in 3-4 whacks. Long term, you would want to drive the pin out and repair.
 
I think Warne does, if that’s the same Ruger style as current rifles.
 
The Ruger Quick Detach are available to fit the tapered receiver style like the Ruger M77, Hawkeye & Super Redhawk.

That’s from the Warne website. Email or call to be sure, but I’m betting they fit.
 
Alaska Arms also makes QD rings for Ruger. They are the traditional horizontal split instead of the Warne’s vertical split.
 

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