Pay It Forward-Free

Up for grabs is an unfinished model 70 featherweight stock inlet for long action one piece bottom metal. Here is a link with more details:

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When I get home I’ll dig up some worthy offerings to pay it forward.


Beautiful stock @Berettaco and very generous gift @ay2626

Stock finishing is easy in that the skill is being really slow and really manual. That "pretty good" stock will look OMG amazing if you do a proper grain fill and use traditional oil on it. It will take you 60 days, a drop or two every 3 days, but in the end it will look like a Griffin & Howe rather than a weatherby.

Please post the completed rifle when you're done with the journey.

P.S. - Please don't defile it with truoil or poly.
 
Beautiful stock @Berettaco and very generous gift @ay2626

Stock finishing is easy in that the skill is being really slow and really manual. That "pretty good" stock will look OMG amazing if you do a proper grain fill and use traditional oil on it. It will take you 60 days, a drop or two every 3 days, but in the end it will look like a Griffin & Howe rather than a weatherby.

Please post the completed rifle when you're done with the journey.

P.S. - Please don't defile it with truoil or poly.
Is boiled linseed the oil of choice or is there a better traditional option?
 
Is boiled linseed the oil of choice or is there a better traditional option?

BLO is an ingredient in a great finish, not the entire "sauce".

Steve Bertram is a great gunsmith in CO that is very open to giving away trade secrets. Give him a call and he'll tell you the way to do a traditional finish and will give you instructions on where to search online for recipes, etc.

Slacum or an alternative like Spar Varnish is for wiping away finish between coats. The initial first or second coat may be BLO. Thereafter it may be a traditional purdey recipe that includes BLO, Venetian Turpentine, Mineral Spirits, and beeswax. For color, the traditional options include red alkanet root which can be sourced cheaply or the old trick of rusty nails in a small vial of vinegar for a couple weeks, then use the solution to provide color. Hairline cracks are filled with crazy-glue and then sanded while the glue is still wet to bond sawdust to it.

The key to success is being snail-pace slow and using way too little material. The more you procastinate between layers, the less likely of a screw up. There is a reason a London Best finish took six months: A coat a day for two weeks. A coat a week for two months. A coat a month for six months.
 
BLO is an ingredient in a great finish, not the entire "sauce".

Steve Bertram is a great gunsmith in CO that is very open to giving away trade secrets. Give him a call and he'll tell you the way to do a traditional finish and will give you instructions on where to search online for recipes, etc.

Slacum or an alternative like Spar Varnish is for wiping away finish between coats. The initial first or second coat may be BLO. Thereafter it may be a traditional purdey recipe that includes BLO, Venetian Turpentine, Mineral Spirits, and beeswax. For color, the traditional options include red alkanet root which can be sourced cheaply or the old trick of rusty nails in a small vial of vinegar for a couple weeks, then use the solution to provide color. Hairline cracks are filled with crazy-glue and then sanded while the glue is still wet to bond sawdust to it.

The key to success is being snail-pace slow and using way too little material. The more you procastinate between layers, the less likely of a screw up. There is a reason a London Best finish took six months: A coat a day for two weeks. A coat a week for two months. A coat a month for six months.
Saving this for later projects, thank you. For right now, as I am just getting started reloading brass prep is still an enjoyable and meditative way to pass a lot of time.
 
Beautiful stock @Berettaco and very generous gift @ay2626

Stock finishing is easy in that the skill is being really slow and really manual. That "pretty good" stock will look OMG amazing if you do a proper grain fill and use traditional oil on it. It will take you 60 days, a drop or two every 3 days, but in the end it will look like a Griffin & Howe rather than a weatherby.

Please post the completed rifle when you're done with the journey.

P.S. - Please don't defile it with truoil or poly.
@rookhawk
London oil or Linspeed oil works extremely well. A slow process but well worth it.
 
Here is my offering in return - all unopened and factory new.
1 box of 375 TTSX 250 gr
1 box of 404J TSX 400 gr
2 boxes of 25 cal ELDX 110 gr
4 boxes of 303 cal TSX 150 gr.

My son could use the 1 box of TTSX 375HH bullets sir.
 
375s going to @rookhawk

please pm me your address.

Will do. I’ll be sure to post something in the next day or two when I do a quick search around the workshop. Thanks again.
 
Here is my offering in return - all unopened and factory new.
1 box of 375 TTSX 250 gr
1 box of 404J TSX 400 gr
2 boxes of 25 cal ELDX 110 gr
4 boxes of 303 cal TSX 150 gr.
@Berettaco.
It's a pity you can't post the 25 cal ELDX to Australia from the USA other wise I would have them in a heart beat.
Bob
 
Here is my offering in return - all unopened and factory new.
1 box of 375 TTSX 250 gr
1 box of 404J TSX 400 gr
2 boxes of 25 cal ELDX 110 gr
4 boxes of 303 cal TSX 150 gr.
@Berettaco
If you are not in the USA I will gladly pay the post on those 25 cal projectiles.
I have used the 150gn Barnes TSX in 303 on Sambar deer and can assure you they work well. Any one wanting them will be well pleased with them. I still have a box of them.
Bob
 

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Ray B wrote on JMJ888's profile.
I am righthanded, so not interested in the rifle, but I have a 375 RUM and 350 gr bullet loading data is very hard to come by. If you could reply with information regarding your loads I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you, Ray Boone, Leavenworth, WA
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