A superb choice and EXACTLY what I have on my CZ550 Safari Magnum in .375 H&H.I chose a Leupold VX-R 1.5-5x with Firedot in Talley rings. Lots of very good, similar choices in this thread. Low to medium power. Illuminated, simple reticle. High quality glass.
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If you look patiently on eBay you can find the version with capped turrets and not the CDS/BCD/tactical dials. Those are great for ringing steel at long distances, but for up close and personal work on a .416 you want as low a profile as possible.
Talley Rings for the CZ are excellent. Warne rings for the CZ are also very well made. Both come in either fixed screw-lock or QD level-lock options. Both have integral recoil lugs that fit the recess in the action’s dovetail.
Note, however, that because the recess is on the left side of the right handed action, the QD lever is necessarily on the right (ejection) side. This allows the right side to open and close over the dovetail base while using the recoil lug on the left to serve as the repeatable index for maintaining zero.
Levers up, levers down, or levers opposing inward are all viable, preferential options. I like mine pointing down toward the stock because they seem “least snaggable” in this position, but the internet is made for arguing so feel free to do so.
Warne makes QD rings for the Ruger 77. I had them on a Ruger Hawkeye African. Worked great.Me too. No option for those on the Ruger that I'm aware of.
Yep. I have Warnes with 1" tube optic & now another set with 30mm tube.Warne makes QD rings for the Ruger 77. I had them on a Ruger Hawkeye African. Worked great.
I used Talley QD rings to mount both.I have Schmidt Bender Exos 1-8 on on my AHR 416. I also mounted a Swarovski Z6 1-6i on my Heym Martini 416. I have not had any issues with them.
I have had great service from Schmidt & Bender Products for close to 30 years !Your old SB is the same I have on my 416 and I love it too! View attachment 664490
QD rings are quick detach and reattach, usually facilitated by levers. Standard rings are typically torqued down with a tool (screwdriver, allen wrench). Not the kind of thing that we mess with in the field. And yes, if the QD rings are quality stuff and mounted properly on a quality base(s), they should hold zero every time reattached, even in the field.Can one of you all walk me through the QD rings? Do you have to verify zero each time you take the unit off then put it back on? I’m traditionally one who says glue it all on because I’m never taking it off once it’s on.![]()