Optics for 416 rigby

I have used VX6 1-6x24 and a VX3 1.5-5x20 on my 416 Rigby and I am happy with those.
Both are works great. If I had enough money now, I'd buy the new Zeiss Victory V8 1.8-14x50 for it.
 
I chose a Leupold VX-R 1.5-5x with Firedot in Talley rings. Lots of very good, similar choices in this thread. Low to medium power. Illuminated, simple reticle. High quality glass.
IMG_0277.jpeg


If you look patiently on eBay you can find the version with capped turrets and not the CDS/BCD/tactical dials. Those are great for ringing steel at long distances, but for up close and personal work on a .416 you want as low a profile as possible.

Talley Rings for the CZ are excellent. Warne rings for the CZ are also very well made. Both come in either fixed screw-lock or QD level-lock options. Both have integral recoil lugs that fit the recess in the action’s dovetail.

Note, however, that because the recess is on the left side of the right handed action, the QD lever is necessarily on the right (ejection) side. This allows the right side to open and close over the dovetail base while using the recoil lug on the left to serve as the repeatable index for maintaining zero.

Levers up, levers down, or levers opposing inward are all viable, preferential options. I like mine pointing down toward the stock because they seem “least snaggable” in this position, but the internet is made for arguing so feel free to do so.
 
I chose a Leupold VX-R 1.5-5x with Firedot in Talley rings. Lots of very good, similar choices in this thread. Low to medium power. Illuminated, simple reticle. High quality glass.
View attachment 664942

If you look patiently on eBay you can find the version with capped turrets and not the CDS/BCD/tactical dials. Those are great for ringing steel at long distances, but for up close and personal work on a .416 you want as low a profile as possible.

Talley Rings for the CZ are excellent. Warne rings for the CZ are also very well made. Both come in either fixed screw-lock or QD level-lock options. Both have integral recoil lugs that fit the recess in the action’s dovetail.

Note, however, that because the recess is on the left side of the right handed action, the QD lever is necessarily on the right (ejection) side. This allows the right side to open and close over the dovetail base while using the recoil lug on the left to serve as the repeatable index for maintaining zero.

Levers up, levers down, or levers opposing inward are all viable, preferential options. I like mine pointing down toward the stock because they seem “least snaggable” in this position, but the internet is made for arguing so feel free to do so.
A superb choice and EXACTLY what I have on my CZ550 Safari Magnum in .375 H&H.
 
Me too. No option for those on the Ruger that I'm aware of.
Warne makes QD rings for the Ruger 77. I had them on a Ruger Hawkeye African. Worked great.
 
Warne makes QD rings for the Ruger 77. I had them on a Ruger Hawkeye African. Worked great.
Yep. I have Warnes with 1" tube optic & now another set with 30mm tube.
They work great and hold point of impact when cycled on and off the rifle.
 
I just bought a CZ [emoji6] Rigby and I put a Leupold Patrol x[emoji6] scope on it. Given my shots will be under [emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] yards it’s a great setup. If you think you’ll be taking longer shots consider Leupold VX[emoji6] in x[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]], I saw one listed on here yesterday. I absolutely believe the x[emoji[emoji6]] Swaro is the best available scope, I simply didn’t want to pay that price point when I have so many Leupold’s that have served me so well.
 
The Leupold 1-4x20 or 1.5-4x20 is the standard for DGR big bores.

I have a 1-4 on my 45-70 double, and a 1.5-4 on my 9.3 double and my 458.

If I were to do it again I’d probably put the Trijicon 1-6 or Leupold 1-6 but those weren’t options when I bought mine.


However, the 416 Rigby is pretty hard on scopes. One of the primary reasons I bought my 404 Jeffery was to get away from the harsh recoil.
 
@poor English man - In the UK keep an eye on the classified section on the Stalking Directory, Guntrader and on eBay. Low magnification variable power scopes come up quite frequently. So far I have found a Zeiss Diavari 1.5-6x42 that sits on my .375 and a Swarovski 1.25-4x24 that is my spare and is currently sat on a .22 semi auto. The Zeiss cost me £323 and the Swarovski was £399. Both are optically superb and better than the Leupold VX5 that I used in Zim. Other makes to consider are Kahles and Leica.
I have just had a look on Stalking Directory and there is a Swarovski 1.5-6x42 for £400….. food for thought. PM me if you need a link sending through.
 
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I had a Vortex Strike egale 1x8 on my 375. Love the reticle and illumination and very clear, but It didn't seem to hold zero, probably had 300 rounds on it. Took it off and put a Leupold Patrol 1x6 with semi circle dot illuminated reticle. love that reticle however it is not daytime bright unless it is a cloudy day, so I upgraded again to A Swarovski Z8I with BRT I reticle.
Leupold is $1299 at Bearbasin outfitters.com. I just picked up a Kimber Caprivi 375 and might put the Vortex on it to see for sure if it will hold zero, just for plinking, but I won't trust it for DG.
 
Vortex has great support. They need to or they'd be out of business quickly. I know a pile of folks who have had to send their scopes in, a few more than once.

I went with a bargain basement Bushnell 30mm semi-tactical in 1-4x. Got such a deal on it that I figured I didn't have anything to lose. Always have iron sights or the old Weaver K3 for backup if it doesn't work out. Have only shot a box and a half of 404J at the range with it and still working fine. Reticle is not Christmas tree or lighted and I'm fine with that. Turrets are covered. It went back to the factory before ever firing a shot but that was pure operator error (embarrassing). Not a thing wrong with that scope.

I have Warne QD rings and they are very reliable. Mine are mounted with levers on the right side where I want them ... and everything else sticking out from the rifle. Absolutely no problems loading. None. And my thick scope is mounted rather low with 1-piece base. Glass is very clear with excellent field of view and +4" eye relief. It acquires instantly. Your jaw would drop if I told you what I paid. Personally, I can't justify paying thousands for a scope that is bound to have very little use in my lifetime (what's left of it) and only shooting at ranges of less than 75 yards.
20240420_112851.jpg
 
Can one of you all walk me through the QD rings? Do you have to verify zero each time you take the unit off then put it back on? I’m traditionally one who says glue it all on because I’m never taking it off once it’s on.
 
Can one of you all walk me through the QD rings? Do you have to verify zero each time you take the unit off then put it back on? I’m traditionally one who says glue it all on because I’m never taking it off once it’s on.
QD rings are quick detach and reattach, usually facilitated by levers. Standard rings are typically torqued down with a tool (screwdriver, allen wrench). Not the kind of thing that we mess with in the field. And yes, if the QD rings are quality stuff and mounted properly on a quality base(s), they should hold zero every time reattached, even in the field.
 
If you can find one a Swarovski z6i 1-6 ×24 EE
 

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