Members metal finish consensus

[Bas]

I use Robar with their matte black finish Roguard with NP3 on bolt and internals. Very thin, even coating with outstanding weather protection and extremely durable.

Thanks for the info, I'm learning about finishes I didn't know about.

 

[DHH45]

I have numerous rifles that have been coated in Metaloy. They are located in Arkansas. Two rifles are 20 years old and show No Wear what so ever.

--------_--------------_-------
Won't be using again EPA put them out of business

 

[roverandbrew]

I have Gun Kote on two CZs. No issues at 12 months but I live in a pretty dry area.

 

[BeeMaa]

I use Robar with their matte black finish Roguard with NP3 on bolt and internals. Very thin, even coating with outstanding weather protection and extremely durable.

Robar went out of business a while ago.
Wright Armory does the NP3+ finish now.
https://wrightarmory.com/np3-metal-finishing/

My CZ 416 Rigby goes out to Wayne tomorrow for a few customization and he's going to do a Gunkote to finish it off. I love to look at blued metal...but prefer to use coated metal.

When I was getting my CZ sent to AHR, he highly recommended Robar.
I did not end up doing it because of time constraints.
If Wayne is saying good things about the NP3+ finish...it means something in my book.

 

[norfolk shooter]

99% of my firearms are wood and blued steel. The two that are not are my 7x64 custom sako action as it sees time in some very shit environments (Scotland and the UK in general) in terms of rain. That rifle is cerakoted. And my wildfolwing (waterfolwing) gun. That thing gets abused like a porn star (in a non sexual way but slapped about much the same). Its a rem versa max with the factory black finish that seems to hold up well against salt water.

 

[Tubby’s Canteen]

with the exception of a revolver I just bought all of my guns are blued and have wooden stocks. I personally can't stand the look of a synthetic stock in my gun cabinet.
The revolver is a new ruger wrangler with some kind of a tan finish.

 

[rookhawk]

Earlier in the thread I mentioned my preference for rust blued finishes. I realize the average reader may think it’s for nostalgia (in part) rather than because it is one of the best, most lasting finishes you can get. (Just like oil finished stocks)

The average reader is probably unfamiliar with how to service, maintain, and conserve their fine arms. Most gunsmiths today are in the same position, having entered the trade as armorers for black guns.

Every gentleman needs a list of about $150 in materials to always have around to care for their guns. I can’t tell you how many people are astounded how much better condition their firearms are actually in than the think looking at them.

the materials list you need to have, the same materials that Boss, Purdey, Westley, and Holland would have had if you sent your gun in for annual service, are as follows:

0000 Bronze Wool
kroil or other extremely fine oil
Renaissance Wax
A couple fine toothbrushes
bronze and nylon brushes
Many micro fiber cloths and lint free T-Shirts
A bottle of oil finish

With the above list of items, and a very gentle hand, when used properly, you can do no harm.

That barrel may have rust ON the finish, not under it. 0000 bronze wool is harder than rust oxide and dry grease/oil, but softer than bluing and steel. Cleaning up a barrel early in its corrosion is easy. For this reason, I’ve had no issue using best guns in the rain and inclement weather. Clean and arrest corrosion early and you’re perfect. Arresting it 50 years late, you may get 80%-90% of it.

Anyone can add a bit of oil finish back to a gun stock without ruining it. Adding 5 layers (10 drops) every couple of years means you’ve not injured the original oil, you’ve just layered up what use has taken away.

All the modern finishes are prone to their own maladies and we don’t really know what they’ll look like in 20-50 years. The traditional finishes and their care and conservation have 200 years of history behind them.

Something to think about, and by doing your own conservation and cleaning (not restoration or gunsmithing) you will gain better insights into your guns, add to their longevity, and ensure they work for generations to come.

The modern gunsmith is ignorant to all of this because they are not well read on classic processes and they were not trained in the traditional ways. The experts still exist but they are gaining in age rapidly and dying out. You can learn how to maintain and care for fine arms without injuring them just as the greatest gun makers have for their clients for 100s of years. This is why classic British arms look so good...minor care for 100 years has sustained them in ways that have kept them in great condition after incredibly amounts of use.

Above all else, do no harm, and you’ll be just fine without Cerokote or any other new treatment to arms. Always remember, the best Germans and English a century ago had access to many similar technical innovations as we are seeing adopted today, they didn’t reject such solutions because they didn’t exist in some form back then, they rejected them because they knew something we’ve ignored today due to hubris or ignorance today as a gun owning society.

 

[35bore]

My "queens" Walnut and blues steel. Working/hunting rifles are all rattlecanned. Synthetic/plastic black stocks/chassis make no sense to me. I own several and all but 2 are still black (not sure if I'll keep them). The rifles I know I'm going to keep, get painted. Reason, I dress in full camouflage to hunt,,,,,, so why would my rifle be black?

 

[John J]

Gunkote over Ceracoat. Ceracoat started to wear on a 10 day hunt. The Gunkote looked brand new.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Blue steel and walnut 99.9 % of the time. Maybe stainless and laminated 0.1% for special applications.

Newboomer
Same here blued steel and walnut or satin stainless and walnut.
My 35 is plastic and satin stainless but fits me beautifully so I won't change it.
Metal is nothing that Cant be kept looking good w without a few drops of oil. Walnut can be waxed.
Cheers mate Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Earlier in the thread I mentioned my preference for rust blued finishes. I realize the average reader may think it’s for nostalgia (in part) rather than because it is one of the best, most lasting finishes you can get. (Just like oil finished stocks)

The average reader is probably unfamiliar with how to service, maintain, and conserve their fine arms. Most gunsmiths today are in the same position, having entered the trade as armorers for black guns.

Every gentleman needs a list of about $150 in materials to always have around to care for their guns. I can’t tell you how many people are astounded how much better condition their firearms are actually in than the think looking at them.

the materials list you need to have, the same materials that Boss, Purdey, Westley, and Holland would have had if you sent your gun in for annual service, are as follows:

0000 Bronze Wool
kroil or other extremely fine oil
Renaissance Wax
A couple fine toothbrushes
bronze and nylon brushes
Many micro fiber cloths and lint free T-Shirts
A bottle of oil finish

With the above list of items, and a very gentle hand, when used properly, you can do no harm.

That barrel may have rust ON the finish, not under it. 0000 bronze wool is harder than rust oxide and dry grease/oil, but softer than bluing and steel. Cleaning up a barrel early in its corrosion is easy. For this reason, I’ve had no issue using best guns in the rain and inclement weather. Clean and arrest corrosion early and you’re perfect. Arresting it 50 years late, you may get 80%-90% of it.

Anyone can add a bit of oil finish back to a gun stock without ruining it. Adding 5 layers (10 drops) every couple of years means you’ve not injured the original oil, you’ve just layered up what use has taken away.

All the modern finishes are prone to their own maladies and we don’t really know what they’ll look like in 20-50 years. The traditional finishes and their care and conservation have 200 years of history behind them.

Something to think about, and by doing your own conservation and cleaning (not restoration or gunsmithing) you will gain better insights into your guns, add to their longevity, and ensure they work for generations to come.

The modern gunsmith is ignorant to all of this because they are not well read on classic processes and they were not trained in the traditional ways. The experts still exist but they are gaining in age rapidly and dying out. You can learn how to maintain and care for fine arms without injuring them just as the greatest gun makers have for their clients for 100s of years. This is why classic British arms look so good...minor care for 100 years has sustained them in ways that have kept them in great condition after incredibly amounts of use.

Above all else, do no harm, and you’ll be just fine without Cerokote or any other new treatment to arms. Always remember, the best Germans and English a century ago had access to many similar technical innovations as we are seeing adopted today, they didn’t reject such solutions because they didn’t exist in some form back then, they rejected them because they knew something we’ve ignored today due to hubris or ignorance today as a gun owning society.

Rookhawk
All my blued steel and walnut rifles are treated in a similar method to yours only I don't use antique wax, I use Gilleys gun polish wax that is specifically formulated for the wooden and metal parts of the rifle. I cleaned the surface rust off a mates rifle with 0000 steel wool and a hospital grade light oil, polished it and gave it back. He told me I had given him the wrong gun it looked that nice. Ten minutes work saves a life time of heartache.
Treat your guns like your wife, lovingly and careing and they will both respond the same.
Years of good times and fun.
It would be a crime punishable by death to put a synthetic or laminate stock and a stainless or other finish on my 1891 manufacture Winchester lowall rifle. It has just had new wood and blueing. A bit of love and care after a hard day and it will last another 100 years
None of my walnut and steel rifles are safe queens they were made to hunt and hunt they do no matter how nice. I would rather wear out a nice rifle using it than looking at it.
Cheers mate Bob

 

[rookhawk]

Hi Bob,

One point of difference I strongly recommend. Don't use 0000 Steel wool, use 0000 Bronze Wool. A few reasons to consider:

1.) Bronze is softer than steel and less likely to leave swirls or scratches in the blued finish.

2.) Microscopic and visible wool particles fall onto the rifle when using them. If you use bronze wool and you miss a few fibers, it doesn't rust so no harm. If you use steel wool and miss fibers on the gun, it will wick rust into a finish.

Thus, if you use 0000 steel wool you must be more vigilant you do not scratch your gun while cleaning or removing stubborn grease/rust, and then if you use 0000 Steel Wool you must meticulously take appart the whole gun, blow out particulate, boil/scour the gun for fiber residue, etc.

Steel wool is more dangerous to use and more complicated to clean up.

HOMAX makes bronze wool in 0000 fine 3-packs on Amazon for about $12. Highly recommended.

Rookhawk
All my blued steel and walnut rifles are treated in a similar method to yours only I don't use antique wax, I use Gilleys gun polish wax that is specifically formulated for the wooden and metal parts of the rifle. I cleaned the surface rust off a mates rifle with 0000 steel wool and a hospital grade light oil, polished it and gave it back. He told me I had given him the wrong gun it looked that nice. Ten minutes work saves a life time of heartache.
Treat your guns like your wife, lovingly and careing and they will both respond the same.
Years of good times and fun.
It would be a crime punishable by death to put a synthetic or laminate stock and a stainless or other finish on my 1891 manufacture Winchester lowall rifle. It has just had new wood and blueing. A bit of love and care after a hard day and it will last another 100 years
None of my walnut and steel rifles are safe queens they were made to hunt and hunt they do no matter how nice. I would rather wear out a nice rifle using it than looking at it.
Cheers mate Bob
View attachment 347147

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Hi Bob,

One point of difference I strongly recommend. Don't use 0000 Steel wool, use 0000 Bronze Wool. A few reasons to consider:

1.) Bronze is softer than steel and less likely to leave swirls or scratches in the blued finish.

2.) Microscopic and visible wool particles fall onto the rifle when using them. If you use bronze wool and you miss a few fibers, it doesn't rust so no harm. If you use steel wool and miss fibers on the gun, it will wick rust into a finish.

Thus, if you use 0000 steel wool you must be more vigilant you do not scratch your gun while cleaning or removing stubborn grease/rust, and then if you use 0000 Steel Wool you must meticulously take appart the whole gun, blow out particulate, boil/scour the gun for fiber residue, etc.

Steel wool is more dangerous to use and more complicated to clean up.

HOMAX makes bronze wool in 0000 fine 3-packs on Amazon for about $12. Highly recommended.

Rookhawk
Thanks mate having trouble getting bronze wool in OZ. Now I know where to get it.
Yes 0000 steel wool is a pain it needs a very very light touch and plenty of oil. I don't have any trouble removing it I use a microfiber cloth and prepsol. Cleans it up nicely.
When I'm finished Gilleys gun polish wax is applied and seals out any moisture.
Once again thank for letting me know where to get bronze wool.
Cheers mate Bob