Mauser 98 vs Blaser R8

The trigger reset spring broke twice on my Glock 19 (Gen 3) in the first 5,000 rounds. The gunsmith sent it back to Glock after the second failure, but I never trusted it after that.

Once you loose confidence in a particular firearm then it’s time to sell it and move on.

I once had a US Army M14 malfunction (some trigger part broke) whilst shooting at Quantico. However, I never lost faith in the M14’s.

Anything man made will eventually fail.
 
How difficult is it to change the turning bolt skill to a straight action skill? I have heard of extreme cases where very strong hunters have broken the handle, although this may be a story.
 
How difficult is it to change the turning bolt skill to a straight action skill? I have heard of extreme cases where very strong hunters have broken the handle, although this may be a story.

Learning to fall of a log takes longer
 
The trigger reset spring broke twice on my Glock 19 (Gen 3) in the first 5,000 rounds. The gunsmith sent it back to Glock after the second failure, but I never trusted it after that.
5K rounds is a lot. Sell it on here and buy a NEW Glock 19, IF you have to have a 9mm. Better yet, buy a Glock 29 10mm and never look over your shoulder again. LOL
 
Most likely someone trying to get too much velocity. I might eat my words some day, but I’ve never had a single issue with my hand loads. But then again, I don’t try to push the limits in regards to my loads.
Yes that is normally the problem. Or taking 10x fired brass for a DG safari!
 
How difficult is it to change the turning bolt skill to a straight action skill? I have heard of extreme cases where very strong hunters have broken the handle, although this may be a story.
Learning to fall of a log takes longer
I'd been using traditional bolt actions for 45 years before switching to the Blaser R8. It took me about two dry fire sessions to not only become proficient but have the muscle memory to make it a repeatable skill.

When you get into a familiar car that is a stick shift, you know where the clutch is and how to use it. If you got into another familiar car that happened to have an automatic transmission, your foot wouldn't be searching for the clutch...you'd just drive it normally.

Granted, driving isn't EXACTLY like hunting DG. But then again...driving in the greater Washington, DC area is pretty close. Hopefully you get my meaning.
 
The trigger reset spring broke twice on my Glock 19 (Gen 3) in the first 5,000 rounds. The gunsmith sent it back to Glock after the second failure, but I never trusted it after that.
Notwithstanding your experience, the Glock may be the most durable handgun ever made. Chuck Taylor documented 250,000 rounds out of a Gen 2 Glock 17 9mm, wearing out quite a few magazines though but no parts breakage. With only 35 component parts, it has the fewest parts of any other pistol, so less to break and go wrong.

I stopped following Chuck Taylor’s torture test in 2010, he may have doubled the 250,000 round count. Having gone through the Glock armorers course, I think any layperson could change out any Glock part very easily without a gunsmith from watching a YouTube video. I carried a Gen 4 Glock 19 as a police duty issue pistol and can’t think of any other pistol that is more reliable having carried Colt 1911’s, Sig Sauer and H&K.
 
Well, maybe I am wired a bit different, but I HAVE gone for the clutch pedal in my auto Jeep in an unexpected stop situation, as my other Jeep and truck are both manuals.

A serious question for the Blaser guys. I understand that the Blaser R8 bolt is locked when it is decocked. Cocking the rifle releases the bolt for manipulation. My question is this; With rifle loaded, and bolt completely closed, handle forward, is bolt handle completely locked and immobile when rifle is decocked? Or can handle be moved rearward a small amount ? If the R8 handle being completely forward is essential to reliability and not getting a "click" in moment of truth, it seems that the bolt should be locked completely in battery, with NO rearward movement possible. The thing I have a hard time wrapping my head around is how these "clicks" are happening if the bolt handle is not completely closed, as the bolt is supposed to be locked when uncocked. Presumably in these situations where R8 fails to fire the bolt was locked prior to cocking the rifle. If the bolt handle is not completely forward, is it still locked in that condition (partially in battery) when uncocked ? Can you uncock the Blaser with bolt handle not fully forward , and if you can, what happens ? If the bolt handle is closed completely, but then bumped rearward a small amount during carry this could result in a click, unless the bolt has absolutely no movement when decocked.
 
Well, maybe I am wired a bit different, but I HAVE gone for the clutch pedal in my auto Jeep in an unexpected stop situation, as my other Jeep and truck are both manuals.

A serious question for the Blaser guys. I understand that the Blaser R8 bolt is locked when it is decocked. Cocking the rifle releases the bolt for manipulation. My question is this; With rifle loaded, and bolt completely closed, handle forward, is bolt handle completely locked and immobile when rifle is decocked? Or can handle be moved rearward a small amount ? If the R8 handle being completely forward is essential to reliability and not getting a "click" in moment of truth, it seems that the bolt should be locked completely in battery, with NO rearward movement possible. The thing I have a hard time wrapping my head around is how these "clicks" are happening if the bolt handle is not completely closed, as the bolt is supposed to be locked when uncocked. Presumably in these situations where R8 fails to fire the bolt was locked prior to cocking the rifle. If the bolt handle is not completely forward, is it still locked in that condition (partially in battery) when uncocked ? Can you uncock the Blaser with bolt handle not fully forward , and if you can, what happens ? If the bolt handle is closed completely, but then bumped rearward a small amount during carry this could result in a click, unless the bolt has absolutely no movement when decocked.
Completely immobile and locked when decocked - not even an itsty bitsy tiny bit of movement.

The only way this "click" happens is when the bolt was not fully closed while chambering a round. I have never had it happen to one of my rifles. The only way I have been able to replicate it is a slow motion load that I do not push all the way closed.
 
So if a hunter closes bolt improperly at beginning of day and fails to push it completely forward, and rifle is de-cocked, is the bolt locked in this semi-closed position ? Or will bolt only lock fully forward ?
 
I find the Blaser to be suprisingly simple and easy to use. Plus, it is shorter in overall length making using a suppressor less of an issue. I use suppressors on most rifles and find the Blaser is easier to use them on.
Another thing is that the Blaser mounts very easy, like a shotgun.

Another thing, I have 7 or 8 different barrels and a couple of stocks. I have yet to use ANY factory ammo that does not shoot 1" or better.
 
I'd been using traditional bolt actions for 45 years before switching to the Blaser R8. It took me about two dry fire sessions to not only become proficient but have the muscle memory to make it a repeatable skill.

When you get into a familiar car that is a stick shift, you know where the clutch is and how to use it. If you got into another familiar car that happened to have an automatic transmission, your foot wouldn't be searching for the clutch...you'd just drive it normally.

Granted, driving isn't EXACTLY like hunting DG. But then again...driving in the greater Washington, DC area is pretty close. Hopefully you get my meaning.
I've never driven a car in the greater Washington, D.C. area, however, I once drove an American photographer in and around Moscow, and he kept moaning and grabbing at me, I don't know why.

I have a purely platonic interest, since I'm not going to upgrade to R8, just curious. In the past, I've had to give up two shotguns: the replica Ithaca 37 (pump) because I just forgot to reload it, and the self-loader because it had an unusual Safer and I sometimes got confused with it. This happened in difficult situations, and the result was missing a shot at a duck or a grouse.
And on more serious hunts, I use an AK-type self-loader under 308. I have three bolts for more powerful cartridges, and I want to switch to them, but now I'm having doubts whether my skills will let me down in an extreme situation, and these have happened. My neighbor at the boar hunt got a double feeding, and the reason was obviously the wrong movement of the handle. He had a new R93 with a 9.3x62 caliber.
I asked a question because there are hunters here who have carried out, so to speak, a change of concept.
 
I think the Blaser R8 is one of the very best of the technologically superior current, modern, bolt action repeater hunting rifle designs that is gaining many fans for its superior operational performance and repeatable excellence.
I think the Mauser 98 is one of the very best of the traditional & nostalgic bolt action repeater hunting rifle designs that has proven its historical value and utility over time.
I've personally never seen either design fail. But if durability and failure was the only criteria, I'd vote for the M98. Just based on its record. Thank goodness we can also choose a modern and technologically superior hunting rifle with more than the extremely unlikely possibility of mechanical failure in mind.
A Blaser R8 is so far ahead in precision, technology, and modern high quality and repeatable manufacturing methods that it makes the comparison kinda silly.
And the M98 is so far ahead in tradition, style, and proven reliability under field conditions that it makes the comparison kinda silly.
So don't compare. Just enjoy what you like. The practical comparison is mostly about differences in style, and portability. Not function or durability.
 
I would say. If you can afford both. Buy an R8 and a nice Mauser.

I really like the R8, pump action comparison made above. That really simplifies the discussion.
Of course the design of the barreled action is not as sloppy as a pump. And the action function is not the same.

But the simple cycling is similar. Round goes off releases the bolt to cycle pull action straight back and forward in same quick direction.
 
Well, maybe I am wired a bit different, but I HAVE gone for the clutch pedal in my auto Jeep in an unexpected stop situation, as my other Jeep and truck are both manuals.

A serious question for the Blaser guys. I understand that the Blaser R8 bolt is locked when it is decocked. Cocking the rifle releases the bolt for manipulation. My question is this; With rifle loaded, and bolt completely closed, handle forward, is bolt handle completely locked and immobile when rifle is decocked? Or can handle be moved rearward a small amount ? If the R8 handle being completely forward is essential to reliability and not getting a "click" in moment of truth, it seems that the bolt should be locked completely in battery, with NO rearward movement possible. The thing I have a hard time wrapping my head around is how these "clicks" are happening if the bolt handle is not completely closed, as the bolt is supposed to be locked when uncocked. Presumably in these situations where R8 fails to fire the bolt was locked prior to cocking the rifle. If the bolt handle is not completely forward, is it still locked in that condition (partially in battery) when uncocked ? Can you uncock the Blaser with bolt handle not fully forward , and if you can, what happens ? If the bolt handle is closed completely, but then bumped rearward a small amount during carry this could result in a click, unless the bolt has absolutely no movement when decocked.
If a firearm is that complicated to use I don’t want anything to do with it.
 
The R8 isn’t complicated at all. It’s very simple.
A tang safety/cocker de cocker.

I guess I am also in the minority. I actually like the Krieghoff and Blaser safety design. But that may be due to the fact that I prefer tang safeties.

That’s the basic shotgun safety I grew up with. As the gun was coming up to the shoulder. The safety was coming off. Now the cocker type safety is a little stiff for some. So that could be an issue.

For me personally, it was my favorite part of the Krieghoff Big Five. I don’t find wing, flag or side push safeties as fast or intuitive as the tang safety.
 
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The bolt does not appear to be completely turned open. Probably sticking. But slamming it in this position will probably not get it open. I bet when he realized he slammed it up and then back. JMHO of course.
 
Realistically the R8 is just a pump gun with a shorter throw and different handle.
Can't speak for anyone else, but I work a pump with the left hand - the one holding the forearm.
 

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