Lubed stuck brass during decap process

[Wyatt Smith]

I’m guessing that apart from being irrelevant, @crs was using carbide dies for that strait wall case.

 

[CoElkHunter]

I’m guessing that apart from being irrelevant, @crs was using carbide dies for that strait wall case.

Maybe, but I've seen very few carbide dies available in rifle cartridges?

 

[sestoppelman]

I’m guessing that apart from being irrelevant, @crs was using carbide dies for that strait wall case.

Perhaps he was being irreverent, or forgot the tongue-in-cheek emo.

 

[sestoppelman]

Dies & Die Tools - Reloaders & Accessories

Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders

www.dillonprecision.com

There is such a thing, but very expensive and lube must still be used.

 

[crs]

Maybe it was soaking twice overnight in CLR that helped clean the seating die? Then there was that $3 steel brush from the hardware store used to clean out the die chassis. Never had such a dirty die before. However, once all the die pieces were clean, I did NOT use lube of any type to load 22 rounds of .45-90 with NF 350 grain SS bullets for Aaron to use to re-regulate the rifle.
Also, I just expanded the case mouth and then let the NF bullet make its own way into position. Experienced reloaders call that "seating" the bullet. No crimping with NF unless you want to break your dies.
I will revisit the instructions about lubing dies before loading the next 50 bullet box of NF. Thanks for the reminder.
For the record, I quit reloading pistol ammo and .308 ammo many years ago when I quit experimenting or found ammo as good or better than I could load.

 

[CoElkHunter]

Maybe it was soaking twice overnight in CLR that helped clean the seating die? Then there was that $3 steel brush from the hardware store used to clean out the die chassis. Never had such a dirty die before. However, once all the die pieces were clean, I did NOT use lube of any type to load 22 rounds of .45-90 with NF 350 grain SS bullets for Aaron to use to re-regulate the rifle.
Also, I just expanded the case mouth and then let the NF bullet make its own way into position. Experienced reloaders call that "seating" the bullet. No crimping with NF unless you want to break your dies.
I will revisit the instructions about lubing dies before loading the next 50 bullet box of NF. Thanks for the reminder.
For the record, I quit reloading pistol ammo and .308 ammo many years ago when I quit experimenting or found ammo as good or better than I could load.

Yes, if your just expanding the case mouth on a straight walled case with a ball expander die and then seating the bullet, there is no need to lube the case.

 

[crs]

Thank you CEH. If my .458 DR regulation is as good as my .405 DR regulation, I can get back to loading ammo AND shooting hogs and who knows what else? I am looking forward to Chrony results as initial indications for the NF 350SS are promising. It may be January, but I will report in detail.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Wow, I did not know to lube the inside of the neck which is the biggest part of the problem

@Rare Breed
I always use RCBS neck lube I think it is. It's a small container with graphite covered beeds in it. Dip the neck in a few times, no more screeching when the decapper comes back thru the neck.
Just be sure to dismantle the die occasionally to clean the decapper and inside the die.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Shouldnt have to lube the inside of the neck to avoid sticking in the die, it helps keep things running smoothly but not really necessary.
The shell holder is fine touching the bottom of the die, that gives a true full length resize. Its not always needed, depends on the gun and its chamber and type, lever, bolt etc.
I would look at the die itself as to being undersized, it can happen. What brand are they?

@sestoppelman
The die touching the shell holder is fine for straight walled cases but a big no no for bottle neck cases as it can bump the shoulder to far back and ruin the head space causing cases to stretch and finally get head separation.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

This is the RCBS kit, the easy way to acquire the necessary parts to do the job but the drill, tap, socket head cap screw and allen wrench are all readily available separately.
Imperial lube or Hornady One Shot lube work well as case lubes. Use as directed and you won't have a problem.

Parts consist of a #7 drill bit, 1/4-20 starter (#1) tap, 1/4-20 x 1" socket head cap screw, 5/32 allen wrench and a socket that is large enough for the screw/bolt to go through but small enough to capture the head. You're basically jacking out the case from the die.

View attachment 440817
1

@Hogpatrol
Every reloader should have one as sooner or later you will need it. Even if you only use it once it saves a ruined die.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

We were thinking the same thing at the same time @Berettaco

@Wyatt Smith
Tell the truth young grasshopper you are just a tight arse that think I can make that cheaper than buying a proper one. It just another case of thinking outside the box
Ha ha ha ha

 

[Hogpatrol]

This is the RCBS kit, the easy way to acquire the necessary parts to do the job but the drill, tap, socket head cap screw and allen wrench are all readily available separately.
Imperial lube or Hornady One Shot lube work well as case lubes. Use as directed and you won't have a problem.

Parts consist of a #7 drill bit, 1/4-20 starter (#1) tap, 1/4-20 x 1" socket head cap screw, 5/32 allen wrench and a socket that is large enough for the screw/bolt to go through but small enough to capture the head. You're basically jacking out the case from the die.

View attachment 440817
1

I should have mentioned, you'll need a small tap handle and for ease of drilling, knock off the edges of the cutting part of the drill. I have a bench grinder and flatten the edges so the drill is basically scraping away the metal. Brass has a tendency to suck in the drill and/or grab. Same goes for any plastic like lexan or plexiglass.

 

[sestoppelman]

@sestoppelman
The die touching the shell holder is fine for straight walled cases but a big no no for bottle neck cases as it can bump the shoulder to far back and ruin the head space causing cases to stretch and finally get head separation.
Bob

No Bob, it all depends on the chamber size. It is sometimes required to set it down for easy chambering. Fit of die dimensions to chamber dimensions sometimes require this, as both vary from gun to gun. Below from RCBS.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

No Bob, it all depends on the chamber size. It is sometimes required to set it down for easy chambering. Fit of die dimensions to chamber dimensions sometimes require this, as both vary from gun to gun. Below from RCBS.
View attachment 441429

@sestoppelman
That may be so but it goes against everything I've learnt about reloading. As stated previously by some one they set their die up about a nickel from the shell holder..
I do something similar but adjust my die do as to have a slight feel when I close the bolt. When my cases get hard to chamber I trim them and start the process over again. Sometimes the shoulder may need to be bumped back a milli-poofteenth to maintain the fit.
I like to feel my case chamber but that's me.
If using the case in another rifle I use your method for the initial sizing. After firing I go back to my method.
Bob

 

[sestoppelman]

@sestoppelman
That may be so but it goes against everything I've learnt about reloading. As stated previously by some one they set their die up about a nickel from the shell holder..
I do something similar but adjust my die do as to have a slight feel when I close the bolt. When my cases get hard to chamber I trim them and start the process over again. Sometimes the shoulder may need to be bumped back a milli-poofteenth to maintain the fit.
I like to feel my case chamber but that's me.
If using the case in another rifle I use your method for the initial sizing. After firing I go back to my method.
Bob

I dare say, RCBS has been loading longer than most of us....like I say it all depends on the chamber size and die dimensions.
It is what full length resizing means after all. Rifles like semi's and lever actions often need full length sizing because they lack the camming power of a bolt action.
Some rifles I need to full length size for, others partial is fine. It all depends.....

 

[1dirthawker]

hmmm,

well, i am still using my original bottle of case lube that i bought more than 25 years ago! no, i am not a high volume reloader. i put a sparing amount on a lube pad and lube cases, i also, as stated above, use a nylon brush and lube the inside of the cartridge neck. i have never had a stuck case, and have loaded the 9.3's, 338, 375's 450-400 and larger cases. i think a clean die and making sure the vent hole is clear is a great idea.

good luck sorting this out. by the way, some of your cases did resize yeah? you should measure them and get an idea if the die is not proper.

 

[Areaonereal]

Normal bump on a shoulder should be .015 to ensure ease of chambering. A bump gauge is worth it to adjust and extend case life if you are full length sizing. Even Custom chambers with the same reamer can and will have different fired case dimensions.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Normal bump on a shoulder should be .015 to ensure ease of chambering. A bump gauge is worth it to adjust and extend case life if you are full length sizing. Even Custom chambers with the same reamer can and will have different fired case dimensions.

@Areaonereal
.015 seems a bit much to bump a shoulder back to me. Normal head space is usually around .004 to .006 tho.
I have 2 rifles cut with a custom reamer in the same caliber. One is a No4 mk1 SMLE and the other is an M17 Enfield. Cases from those are interchangeable after firing and before sizing and both are headspaced at .004.
Before electronic ignition in cars I used to set my ignition points at .015, that's a big gap. I wouldn't want that much room in my rifle when I pulled the trigger.
Bob

 

[Areaonereal]

Missed a 0, .0015. Posted that at 3:45 AM. Different fired case dimensions does not mean they would not fit in chambers reamed by the same reamer, just case dimensions may not be the same. Different brand of case, new case, once fired, etc.

 

[Woodcarver]

The one time I had a real issue with full length resizing was for my ex-FIL's 300H&H. Any case fired in his rifle could not be sized. They were that oversized. I could neck size his brass and it would chamber in his M70, but no other. Got pretty good at removing stuck cases while working through this problem. With multiple stuck cases in more than one die, I would suspect this is very possibly the OP's issue.

The other common cause of stuck cases has been mentioned a couple times, but is worth repeating; make sure the vent hole is clear.

Interesting to hear how some of you set up your dies. As @sestoppelman pointed out, the die should be run an 1/8-1/4 turn past touching to full size to factory case specs. Required if using more than one gun in a chambering or in levers and semis. Critical in any cartridge for defensive use or if pursuing something that can fight back. Reliance on the cam action of the bolt to squeeze the round into the chamber is asking for a ride-along by Murphy.

Lube should be used sparingly. Like @1dirthawker, I am still running on a bottle of RCBS lube I bought in the 90s-and I reload a few thousand rounds a year. This has also resulted in only needing to clean a die every blue moon or two.

Just another .02