Lubed stuck brass during decap process

OK, OT now, what do you do if this happens in the chamber where the entire head is pulled off the rest of the case?
 
I have a rifle with an oversized chamber. If I drive a once fired case to the bottom of the sizer (decapper) it is difficult to remove. But this can be done in several steps, slowly screwing the die in deeper. Leave the thickness of a nickel. The Stuck-Case remover is your friend here.........FWB
 
Different opinions but generally speaking, all the inside neck sizer button does is overwork the brass. I remove them and use a dedicated decapping die.
 
Change lube.
Change brands of sizer dies. (RCBS and Redding are tops.)
New case holder if the case is pulling out (different brand as well).

Just my 2 cents and what what I would do, and always a little heavy on the case lube (rolled on or sprayed on). When you get dents in the case shoulder, you know to reduce the amount of lube.

Personally, I like spray lube so I can easily lube inside the case neck. Shaken like a hochie girl and sprayed from four sides. I've only stuck one case (so far) in the last 49 years that I can remember.
 
Too much lube will get the case stuck. Dies need to be cleaned inside often. Dirty cases extra cause stuck cases as tolerances are tight.
No, it wont. It just makes a mess and puts dents in the shoulder.
 
Wonder how long they have been selling that kit? I’ve been drill, tapping and using a deep socket with a threaded bolt, I’m sure same concept only much easier to get stayed with just buying the kit

I saw it for sale clear back in the early 70's.

For a lube I love Hornady One Shot. It is a aerosol and as you spray the cases you also hit the case mouths.
 
Sometimes a five to ten second pause at the top of the stroke helps.
 
One thing I do on some cases is unscrew the expanding/decapping rod from the die. Then resize the case and should it stick I can put a punch in the die to punch out the case. When I have all cases finished put the rod back in the die as far ar you can and expand the neck. Yes two steps. Only use Imperial wax for resizing.
I also use mica or graphite on the inside of the neck.
 
Hogpatrol, a while back I had a headspace issue on a seldom loaded caliber and blew the head off the case, leaving it stuck in the chamber. Fortunately, the guy shooting next to me offered an immediate solution. He pushed a 5.56 "Chamber Brush" into the case and pulled it out "slicker n snot."
 
Hogpatrol, a while back I had a headspace issue on a seldom loaded caliber and blew the head off the case, leaving it stuck in the chamber. Fortunately, the guy shooting next to me offered an immediate solution. He pushed a 5.56 "Chamber Brush" into the case and pulled it out "slicker n snot."


Yep, that's the ticket. Have done it for more than one that was thinking gunsmith.
 
If you have had problems with 2 die sets I doubt that the problem is with bad dies. One other thing to check is the vent hole in the resizing die. If that hole is plugged it could be responsible. As to setting the die up to properly full length resize you would screw the die in till it contacts the shell holder, then lower the ram and screw the die in another half to full turn. When you resize you will feel it "cam over" which will return the brass to factory specs. That cartridge is not one to partially resize since you may bet your life on proper feeding and extraction. Good luck
 
Now I know why my recent 45-90 loading went so well! Clean dies and no lube!

However CEH, Are you still eating that Vegemite?
 
Now I know why my recent 45-90 loading went so well! Clean dies and no lube!

However CEH, Are you still eating that Vegemite?
"and no lube"? On the cases? Carbide resizing die? I think NOT in that cartridge. I use the RCBS case lube pad with a LITTLE lube and roll the cases on it. If it's a bottleneck case, I put a little lube on the neck. I also use a nylon brush and put a little lube inside the case neck. Probably not necessary, but I haven't had a stuck case yet. Most of my cases are only neck sized as they are shot in the same rifle. I don't full length size until after several firings and/or the case won't chamber smoothly. I use the same process above when forming .416 Taylor cases from .458WM brass. I didn't think my 45 year old RCBS Jr. press would have enough camming strength to accomplish this, but it works like a charm! And no, I haven't tried Vegemite yet. I thought I would have Townsend @Bob Nelson 35Whelen send me a large jar of it stuffed with a box or two of 225gr Woodleighs (if he could find any) for my .338WM. I would then dig out the bullets from the Vegemite if they haven't disintegrated and throw the Vegemite away. Just a thought?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
58,006
Messages
1,245,094
Members
102,486
Latest member
CharlesSobia
 

 

 

Latest profile posts

Grz63 wrote on roklok's profile.
Hi Roklok
I read your post on Caprivi. Congratulations.
I plan to hunt there for buff in 2026 oct.
How was the land, very dry ? But à lot of buffs ?
Thank you / merci
Philippe
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
Chopped up the whole thing as I kept hitting the 240 character limit...
Found out the trigger word in the end... It was muzzle or velocity. dropped them and it posted.:)
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
2,822fps, ES 8.2
This compares favorably to 7 Rem Mag. with less powder & recoil.
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
*PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS FOR MY RIFLE, ALWAYS APPROACH A NEW LOAD CAUTIOUSLY!!*
Rifle is a Pierce long action, 32" 1:8.5 twist Swan{Au} barrel
{You will want a 1:8.5 to run the heavies but can get away with a 1:9}
Peterson .280AI brass, CCI 200 primers, 56.5gr of 4831SC, 184gr Berger Hybrid.
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
I know that this thread is more than a year old but as a new member I thought I would pass along my .280AI loading.
I am shooting F Open long range rather than hunting but here is what is working for me and I have managed a 198.14 at 800 meters.
That is for 20 shots. The 14 are X's which is a 5" circle.
 
Top