Loading "Factory" Ammo

[Tam Dl]

So suppose one wanted to load a round that would have the safety and performance (roughly, they sometimes have different options than we do) of factory ammo. I can just go in and buy a box of ammo, sight a few, and go out and have at it. I can also lend them to a friend with a modern rifle and he doesn't have to worry, other than that I may have goofed it up. But in theory, we could all use it. How do we do that? Just use the components in a reloading manual and the "starting load".

I have been reloading for 40 years+, I have done all the accuracy stuff, and in fact would be using those dies, measures and ideas to run any ammo, and I use either Partitions or Barnes bullets. I would probably be shoulder bumping, but done properly that won't be a problem in my own rifle.

Suffice it to say there are a lot more people living here, and I am not going to shoot on my property any more. There is a range, but I don't get there often. I will shoot to sight, obviously, there is no way around that. And I can shoot a ton of air rifle to keep the practice in.

This came up because I got this old load for 6.5x55 out of a Seyfried article, and when I looked it over, I realized it was actually a starting load in at least one manual. Basically factory ammo, in a sense. And I guess why they handed out the recipes back then.

 

[Longwalker]

I use handloads interchangeably in several different rifles as a normal practise. The key is to refrain from trying to maximize velocity which will also tend to maximize pressure. The ideal situation is to use the same case, primer, and bullet as the factory load you are trying to imitate. You will not be able to buy the exact same powder as the factory, since factories do not use "canister grade"powders standardized in burning rate for retail sales. But you can come close. A chronograph is almost essential. You can choose a powder that achieves optimum velocity while maintaining acceptable pressures by looking at several published data sources. Good data sources list pressures measured. For example, many, many USA reloading data sources would suggest RL15 for .375 H&H/300 gr. , or H4350 for 30-06/180 gr. , or Varget in .308 /165 gr.. Similar standards and favourites exist for European standard CIP cartridges.
Check the velocity of a factory load on your chronograph. Then work up a load with those components, with bullet seated the same depth as a factory load, until you reach the same velocity. You are almost certain to have a load that is safe, effective, and "good enough" - just like a factory load.
Variables such as different primers, different brand cases with different capacities, and different styles or weights of bullets seated to differ depths can affect results, so use common sense and try to keep variables to minimum. Velocity tells most of the tale - one cannot have "more" velocity without "more" pressure, if all else is kept equal.

 

[JimP]

For most of my rifles I had a factory round that shot good enough that I was happy with it. Then when I started to load them myself I tried to duplicate that factory loading. There was no way that I could use or even figure out what powder, and primers that they used but I came close. I then would adjust my loads for accuracy once I had the standard load.

For other loads I have gone over the books to find what kind of performance I wanted out of that cartridge. Then I would start working up loads for it. If I found that I was getting pressure signs before reaching the velocity I wanted of that round I would see if there was another powder that would get me there and begin all over.

I have a number of loads that I would never just hand over to someone with a rifle that the round would fit. But if they are satisfied with factory performance I'll load them up some that will do it. But I also never load for someone else without having their rifle or pistol to try them out in to see if they are safe. I've made a few people mad doing it this way but I rather be safe than have something happen.

 

[Puddle]

In all cases (pun intended) a chronograph is your best friend. I've never 'lended' ammo to someone as that assumes I'll be getting them back, unfired. A key step in loading the same cartridge for a chamber different than mine is to always use either new brass, or fully resized brass. I lean towards using new brass.

 

[shootist~]

Random comments based on my (two and only two) multiple rifle reloads.

I have 308/7.62x51 and 30-06 practice loads that work well in multiple rifles. Both were put together with the idea of producing a basic high volume practice load (from the sticks type practice). Not so much as a hunting load tweaked for one specific rifle. During the great ammo shortage two friends made use of the 30-06 load to conserve their factory hunting ammo.

The 308 load came about when I happened to be at the range working on a duplication load (using Hornady 150 gr FMJs) for my surplus Aussie 7.62x51 F4 ball ammo. A professional custom reloader I know was breaking in an AR10 rifle he had built for a customer - with one of his standard loads. Nothing special, just Hornaday 150 FMJ-BTs and Benchmark powder. Switching to that powder got me to where I wanted to be.

The 30-06 load (also using the Hornady 150 gr FMJ-BT) was just luck. Wanting a mild recoil practice load for a newish 30-06 that would shoot fairly close to my 180 grain hunting loads. I used what I had available: H4350 - a very common and proven powder for the 30-06. Starting a 4.5 grains below maximum and close to Hornady's recommended COL *for that specific bullet*, I got lucky. Accuracy is great in three different bolt guns and V @ ~2,800 fps is mild. MV3 chronographed Velocity is 200 grains below the book maximum, btw.

This (30-06, 150 gr) load is 56.0 grains of H4350 VS the book "starting load" of 49.4 grains.

Edit to add: the brass used for ammo loaded for others was once fired commercial (factory) brass from their rifles. Measured and re-sized as appropriate.

 

[Tam Dl]

Thanks for all the great information. Some stuff I didn't think of.

I am not trying to duplicate a factory load. I am trying to have the same experience as. So after a quick visit to the store, or my stash, I have some components that I use where I don't have to go through a whole load development process, and the result will give reasonable results and not require one to do a lot of testing. With good gear and process, one should get pretty good results. Reminds me of my very first reloading experience which was with the Lee loader where you get one die, and you hammer the rounds together. Powder measurement is with a scoop from a chart for various powders. My results would be better since I have everything except a range to test on (COVID and other problems). I lost the whole summer's shooting, which is it for me, due to the post office loosing my license renewal. But I can neck turn brass, and I don't need their permission. Just like to get the whole process as much outside externalities as possible.

Isn't most actual pistol ammo loaded this way, you don't do a ton of optimizing, you have ammo that won't blow up everyone's gun, emphasis is on economy, and practical accuracy.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

A good way to get a similar powder as factory ammo is to chrono a factory load. Then pull one of the bullets and weigh the charge. Then look in your reloading manual to find a velocity and charge weight that corresponds and use that powder, starting at the bottom, and working up of course.
It is not perfect, but it will get you in the ballpark on a burn rate.

 

[Longwalker]

Once you have verified that your rifle gets "x" velocity with a standard factory load, use that as your point of comparison. If you rifle shoots faster than factory published data when firing factory loads, you likely have tight throat or chamber. Pressures for a particular load recipe will be a bit higher than "average" in your rifle. If you rifle velocity is "slow" ( take in to account barrel length) you may have a worn bore and / or a loose chamber or long freebore or worn throat and you could load a bit more powder than would be safe in an "average" rifle and still keep pressures safe.
So with that in mind, compare factory load results with the loads listed in the major load data manuals that also include pressure data. If your rifle is already verified to shoot factory loads at about factory velocities, and gives very similar velocities to published hand loads with those exact components, you should be OK to just load up and go.

 

[Longwalker]

This is what I did with my very first ever .270 rifle. Purchased a couple weeks ago.

Looked up recommended powders in several manuals. Looked on line for some "pet loads" suggestions. Decided I wanted 130 grain bullet at normal factory velocity. That seems to be somewhere between 3000 and 3100 FPS from a 22" barrel depending on the sources.

I bought a box of factory loads, 130 Gr. PPU "Rifle Line". Chronographed at 3030 fps from my rifle.

Chose the most recommended powder, H4931 for my load, with a standard cup and core 130 grain Speer bullet. Shot test loads at 57, 58, 59, 60, and 61 grains of powder. Records showed just what I wanted in a nice progression, ending with 60 grains at 3050 fps. 61gr. was at 3100 fps but deemed too much of a good thing, probably too much pressure to go with that velocity. Load data books showed max at anywhere from 59.5 - 62 grains. I believe my max. is OK based on the data and on the velocity achieved in my rifle.

So now I have a good, safe load, at maximum factory velocity, and can enjoy at least as good results as I would expect from factory ammo.

I hope you have similar success.

 

[postoak]

OP, you lost me. Did you have a question?

 

[Tam Dl]

For easy reference, I left a question mark.

 

[postoak]

Okay, then you have good answers. Full length size your cases, or use new brass. Match brand on cases, primers, and bullets. Keep cartridge length the same. Chrono the factory loads and match that. Pressure may not be exactly the same but should be close. Assuming your rifle's chamber isn't custom then this should do what you want.

 

[Tam Dl]

Longwalker, that would work. I am trying to avoid the steps. When one buys factory ammo, one doesn't have to buy a pre-box, that has loads from a low level, in .1 grain increments, and fire those first, in order to proof the factory load in the gun. The assumption is that a gun of modern manufacture, and in good condition, will be fine at the pressures of factory ammo. Aside from some cartridges that have been held back due to weak rifles in the system (45-70 as an example), most factory ammo provides decent velocity performance. Sometimes better than handloads, Yet if I build my own cartridges, with specified components, and loads, I have to work up the load. I would like to be able to simply follow an instruction, and be good to go.

 

[Woodcarver]

Longwalker, that would work. I am trying to avoid the steps. When one buys factory ammo, one doesn't have to buy a pre-box, that has loads from a low level, in .1 grain increments, and fire those first, in order to proof the factory load in the gun. The assumption is that a gun of modern manufacture, and in good condition, will be fine at the pressures of factory ammo. Aside from some cartridges that have been held back due to weak rifles in the system (45-70 as an example), most factory ammo provides decent velocity performance. Sometimes better than handloads, Yet if I build my own cartridges, with specified components, and loads, I have to work up the load. I would like to be able to simply follow an instruction, and be good to go.

A number of the reloading manuals actually indicate loads that duplicate (their) factory loads for velocity and, presumably, pressure. I'm not at home to look, but I recall seeing that in my Hornady manual, and the One Load line of manuals that are cartridge specific and list many different manufacturers load data for that specific round.