How do you sharpen your knife?

[Ryan]

I have a few stones and methods. The Spyderco two stone ceramic set has to be my go-to for field blades in the field. It's maybe 4"x1", in a leather pouch, medium and fine stone. I've had it 30 years+, been used to sharpen countless knives and thrown in every hunting pack. No oil or water used ans still flat as a board. You just have to have to know how to use a stone freehand. At home things things get more complicated. In the kitchen I have a composite of rods. I like 25° of the Lansky rod base, but with the longer Diamond and ceramic rods of A. G. Russel. Otherwise my day in-day out for pocket knives and field sheath knives is a Norton India medium/fine oil stone and a can of light oil. For broadheads I own a Lansky. 25°, from diamond to fine stone, I can make a broadhead all the more deadly than any factory sharpening.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Bob,
How do you sharpen your Tomahawks?
CEH

@CoElkHunter
Bench grinder, file and stone
Bob

 

[spike.t]

The work sharp Ken Onion is great for home. To bad they do not make it in DC 12v.

I had an adapter that fitted in the power socket in the cruiser...3 pin square uk plugs fitted in it....can't remember make or where got it...it " disappeared "

 

[spike.t]

Just ordered one, you guys convinced me!

All this talk about these things made me go ask Mr google.....which is the one people are on about ?...as looks like a few options.....ie most simple one ...

 

[CBH Australia]

Damn, that sucks but it’s never been my experience with the three that I’ve owned. All of them require a leatherman to remove the blade for replacement. Any chance you didn’t pull the blade into place and snap over the safety tab?

So , for a minimalist Blaser user you are carrying a Leatherman to fix your knife

 

[CBH Australia]

I find it VERY interesting that PH's like @Tokoloshe Safaris use these knives for skinning elephants! That has got to be a big job, I would like to see the men in action.

I imagine that skin on Elephants would be tough. Pretty sure the locals eat them it's part of the industry giving back to the community.

 

[BeeMaa]

So , for a minimalist Blaser user you are carrying a Leatherman to fix your knife

True, but I'm packing a Leatherman even if I don't pack the Havalon. Both of them in a small pouch is still more compact than a fixed blade.

 

[MS 9x56]

My son uses a Ken Onion because he never developed the feel necessary to properly sharpen with stones. If you hold the stone too tightly you can’t feel if you are on 17 or 20 degrees. Maybe they don’t think you can remove material unless you are pressing. Just not true. Just like anything that requires finesse it takes touch and patience. My Dad was pretty proud of me when I got it. Once I did then he taught me to use the barbers strope to keep the shaving edge. I am now trying to teach my grandson the old ways.

 

[Daisy]

My son uses a Ken Onion because he never developed the feel necessary to properly sharpen with stones. If you hold the stone too tightly you can’t feel if you are on 17 or 20 degrees. Maybe they don’t think you can remove material unless you are pressing. Just not true. Just like anything that requires finesse it takes touch and patience. My Dad was pretty proud of me when I got it. Once I did then he taught me to use the barbers strope to keep the shaving edge. I am now trying to teach my grandson the old ways.

I feel the same. And my sons will know how to use stones. But man I touched up my knife before hunting last night in 30 seconds on WorkSharp. It just works.

 

[Boone66]

On a 2x72 being pushed by a 2hp motor, I completely agree… even with a high grit belt you can remove a lot of material quickly and generate a lot of heat as well…

On something like a 1x30 being pushed by a .25 hp motor similar to the harbor freight mini belt sander or the Ken onion work sharp, you could still generate too much heat… but you’d have to really try…

Mine is a 2x72, I have belts down to 5000 grit. I keep a can of cold water next to it and on hot days I put ice in it. I don't use gloves and dunk on every pass.

 

[MS 9x56]

You should use quenching oil then even if you get it too hot the quenching oil can actually add carbon to the steel.

 

[Boone66]

You should use quenching oil then even if you get it too hot the quenching oil can actually add carbon to the steel.

Oil tends to gum up the belts, that's why I just use cold water and a light touch. I have done it this way for years, without any problems.

 

[MS 9x56]

Lesson learned. When I was a machinist apprentice we were taught to always use quenching oil but we were grinding on grinding wheels not sanding belts.

 

[Boone66]

It works really well on stones.

 

[Woodcarver]

Even though there is a Jet version of the Tormek in the shop with every jig made, the Work Sharp (the Ken Onion's little brother) and a set of crock sticks are what are pulled out when a knife needs sharpening. Nothing better for getting the kitchen knives back up and functional either. The crock sticks or a butcher's steel are used for keeping the blade sharp during use. In the field, I use a cheap sharpener with a set of fixed ceramic inserts to maintain the edge.
There are a lot of times a honed edge is actually counterproductive. That microscopic serration left from the well used belt, a stone, or the sticks works better and lasts longer than the stropped edge on a straight razor for dissecting and skinning game, so I don't hone any of my hunting knives. But I do prefer a honed edge if shaving.

 

[Tokoloshe Safaris]

When I started this thread I mentioned I looked at all of the sharpening devices they had in stock, what I did not mention is that I bought another one it is a work sharp that they had just got in.

This work shop is a strong well made plastic materiial when set up it looks a lot like a guatene

 

[mdwest]

Mine is a 2x72, I have belts down to 5000 grit. I keep a can of cold water next to it and on hot days I put ice in it. I don't use gloves and dunk on every pass.

I just keep belts between 40 and 400 grit for my 2x72… but have belts ranging between 240 and 2000 for the little 1x30…

 

[OxfordTheCat]

Depends on the knife. I have a set of whetstones that goes 400/1000/3000/8000 (although in the real world I never go over 1000). But I've also got one of these Chef's Choice XV15's that I think works really well.

View attachment 589350

Once upon a time I used to butcher, so have an affinity for sharp knives and for maintaining them myself. Usually turned my nose up at sharpening contraptions.

One of these Chef's Choice showed up as gift from her parents, and I'm actually really surprised with how well it works. This and an occasional hit on the steel has been very convenient for kitchen knives.

 

[Rez Exelon]

Once upon a time I used to butcher, so have an affinity for sharp knives and for maintaining them myself. Usually turned my nose up at sharpening contraptions.

One of these Chef's Choice showed up as gift from her parents, and I'm actually really surprised with how well it works. This and an occasional hit on the steel has been very convenient for kitchen knives.

Like would I ever use that on my Shun knives? No. Wusthof? Maybe. General purpose stuff --- 100% without hesitation. Honestly, I could probably use on the others if needed but I'm a bit snobby and have done stones for a long time too.

 

[Tam Dl]

If one is lucky and knowledgeable, one tries not to have to go through the whole process of sharpening, and only hone the knives before they reach a tipping point. The easiest way to do that is with v mounted crock sticks. My preferred tool is the Gatco sharpener (different names for the same thing). It has two sets of stones, and is reasonably priced. The process is undertaken dry, though you can do otherwise. Ajax and other things can be used to clean the stones periodically. This system is very easy to use, and requires minimal skill. For the most part, just being able to identify and take care of problems before they arise, and to judge which angle will work. The sharpening is automatic.

I think Lansky now markets something closest to the Gatco system I use. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Lansky-Masters-Edge-5-Rod-Sharpener-P544C57.aspx

That place also sells the sticks alone. Spyderco makes a multi grit crock system at a higher price point.

For more expedient use on quality knives, or for kitchen and other knives that have soft steel blades (it is a mistake or conceit to believe these are bad knives), I use two diamond hones. A Jewel stick, the one I have is small and cheap for field use when bowhunting. It has the fine grit only. A large one with 3 guts is a complete system. And the coarse one I use is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9J9RTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If the blade has lost it's edge but is not rounded, these diamond files will restore a very serviceable edge with about 3 strokes a side, with each sharpener. The edges tend to wear a little faster but they will cut very well for a while.

i have been making and sharpening all manner of tools for 50 years, and have a forge, grinders of many types, a huge collection of stones. To avoid that level of insane acquisition, try scary sharp either with sandpaper, or even the 4 diamond "stone" sets that have come somewhat recently to the market.

I haven't bought these, I think mine came off Ebay, there are dozens of purveyors. But something like this can work:

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Sharpening-Stone-Coarse-Non-slip/dp/B09WM9NCK3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3CIHZ9QS3C91U&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.24CEzRmUUGSBiKSNSOZNbRTke82dJI5zRmVTaxC0RbM7sBt55I8z_QaMMhoChfzV9hyslMnTJSYgxS5fCXMp2wX0UAKOFd4Psn5KE3NOhVbFUEkr01a49sEJkONRbc-j3UakVTkFeU2hm_CW0N_gHpJ-AvrVAGxOP6yidhBR1ODMRGpE2XB8jQU4EurlswRikoxJkfb35C_8qsnHITiTKWwWipKbS8FabT7YWCNAkxc71iaq_QooiMNK2aJ1zAU56poj_i09mK7tj3aq9Su_tFFB74cw0AgheKlr_LMUTbY.gyMy2kB2ZsJptgXlhH8GN2fQG6Ip7NutB9VqId-1_qs&dib_tag=se&keywords=diamond%2Bstones&qid=1710587565&sprefix=diamond%2Bstones%2Caps%2C333&sr=8-5&th=1