How do you sharpen your knife?

[HankBuck]

I've tried it all. This is the way forward, they really work and are foolproof. Apologies that its inexpensive, I know we all like expensive gadgets with lots of moving parts.

Strop Bat

JRE-Industries, Inc.

Our main business is Leather Sheaths. We also have sharpening items and other accessories for your outdoor needs.

jreindustries.com

ROOKHAWK - these look great for taking a sharp blade to a RAZOR edge but you’ll be “stropping” for weeks if you start with a dull blade and especially if it has a RC above 56/57….Are you getting a blade from dull to sharp with just this strop? I’ve never been able to come close to that but would like to know your experience ?

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

A sharp knife makes any job easier. The worst thing you can do for a good quality steel knife is put it to a grinder or sanding belt. If not done lightly or properly you can take the temper out of the steel. Much better to use a courser stone by hand if the blade is damaged or very dull then work to a finer stone for finishing.

@MS 9x56
That's the beauty of the Ken Onion. If used correctly it's almost impossible to over heat the blade. Ken is a knife maker and designed a sharpener that even I can use
Bob

 

[rookhawk]

ROOKHAWK - these look great for taking a sharp blade to a RAZOR edge but you’ll be “stropping” for weeks if you start with a dull blade and especially if it has a RC above 56/57….Are you getting a blade from dull to sharp with just this strop? I’ve never been able to come close to that but would like to know your experience ?

Great question. The statement is "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". A strop regularly means a stone once a decade.

I use a coarse stone to remove serious edge damage, and then maintain with a strop. Most frequent use of a stone is to remove an actual, visible curl from a blade that was damaged, or a broadhead. Then 2 mins to 20 mins on a strop to get it razor sharp once more.

I suspect in the future I'll throw away my stones an go with a belt sander, I have one that I've never used for knife work. Foundational edge gets put on by the maker/factory or a full restoration of an edge on a sander, then the strop.

 

[steve white]

A sharp knife makes any job easier. The worst thing you can do for a good quality steel knife is put it to a grinder or sanding belt. If not done lightly or properly you can take the temper out of the steel. Much better to use a courser stone by hand if the blade is damaged or very dull then work to a finer stone for finishing.

That's what I wonder about the electric sharpener I use for the kitchen knives. Is a quick pass thru cool enough or not on the blade?

 

[MS 9x56]

That's what I wonder about the electric sharpener I use for the kitchen knives. Is a quick pass thru cool enough or not on the blade?

Typically with a quick pass it will be fine unless the wheel is extremely fast.1

 

[HankBuck]

That's what I wonder about the electric sharpener I use for the kitchen knives. Is a quick pass thru cool enough or not on the blade?

Steve, I would use an electric belt type sharpener on a kitchen knife or any knife I “didn’t care about” but would Not ever use one on my better Hunting knives. And part of that is just ME - I tend to over-do-everything and I’m afraid my blade would look like an ICE PICK in 5 minutes!

 

[steve white]

OK, time to come clean....although I use the Lansky system to carefully sharpen my better knives, I regularly use a Chef's Choice Sportsman hand held diamond hone sharpener to touch up filet knives and sometimes my hunting knives in the field. It is easy, but I vow to start honing more as a test of the best way to preserve a sharp edge, since any diamond system will remove metal. OTOH, when you've got a tub of fish to clean, you NEED easy. I have crock sticks, but can't seem to get that much done with them, except they are the way to go for serrated blades--probably a learning curve I need to overcome.
Sadly, I have many natural stones kept well flattened and oiled, that I seldom use, except for chisels and plane irons which use a rolling fixture to keep a set angle. I just don't use them for knives that much anymore.

 

[steve white]

Steve, I would use an electric belt type sharpener on a kitchen knife or any knife I “didn’t care about” but would Not ever use one on my better Hunting knives. And part of that is just ME - I tend to over-do-everything and I’m afraid my blade would look like an ICE PICK in 5 minutes!

It doesn't use belts, I think rather spinning discs inside--hard to see. Three choices of grit/ceramic. Have not used it on ANY good hunting knives.

 

[Safari Dave]

Please don't use an electric kitchen knife sharpener on a decent knife. Save that for your cheap Ginsu's and anything else you don't really care about. Oh, they will make a knife serviceable, but they remove too much steel and can take out the temper on an edge, if you let it get too hot.



IMO, the best sharpener currently available is a Spyderco Sharpmaker.

For a field sharpener, it's hard to beat a Lansky Blademedic.


To keep everything sharp at home, I touch up all the Victorinox kitchen knives with an old-fashioned "crock stick" about once a month. The Sharpmaker is a Crock Stick on steroids!



Crock Stick:

If you make the mistake of letting a knife with very hard steel (like a Buck) get too dull (like I did one time on an elk), Tundra Tiger's method is your best option:

 

[Boone66]

I normally reprofile the edge for specific use on my belt sander and use it to 1000 grit, then go to ceramic stones a very fine Arkansas stone and then a strop. In the field I use a flat very fine Dimond.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

It doesn't use belts, I think rather spinning discs inside--hard to see. Three choices of grit/ceramic. Have not used it on ANY good hunting knives.

@steve white
As you know I'm basically a lazy SOB but the Ken Onion work sharp is the best invention since button up boots and sliced bread.
To give my knives a quick touchup I put in an old fine belt set at medium to slow speed. Set the angle to suit the knife then 5-6 passes on each side of the blade and done. I try to make sure I have a few blades to do or it takes longer to walk the ten yards to get it out and plug it in then put it away
I don't use a strop because I can't use one for shit. My blades und up more blunt than when they started. My fine ( read almost smooth) old f. Dick oval steel works for me
Vob

 

[MS 9x56]

This is what a sharp knife can do when you get complacent.

 

[Rare Breed]

@ofbiro
I have a Lansky 3 stone sharpener . Whilst they are pretty good I personally don't think they are as gaad a learning to use a stone properly .
Bob

I agree! while they certainly work they are a real pain in the butt to set up and use. just my POV

 

[Rare Breed]

@Tokoloshe Safaris
Depends on the knifes use.
My fillet knife is 17 degrees.
General use knives/ skinning 20 degrees
Hard use knives 25 degrees.
Vib

My new Van Gruff knife is 20 degrees. I have seen knives so screwed up because people did not know the original angle degree…ask me how I know…lol!!! I have screwed this up not once but twice…stupid me!!!!

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

My new Van Gruff knife is 20 degrees. I have seen knives so screwed up because people did not know the original angle degree…ask me how I know…lol!!! I have screwed this up not once but twice…stupid me!!!!

@Rare Breed
That's why all my knives are set at the angle I want when I get them.
Doesn't matter what the preset angle is I set them to MY needs. 95 percent of my knives are set at 20 degrees for general use. Boning and heavy use knives are set at 25 degrees that way if I hit bone they are less likely to roll the edge.
Fillet and fine work knives are set at 17 degrees for ultra sharp for precise work.
That's where the Ken Onion comes into its own. You can dial in the precise angle you need for each knife. Easy quick and does a brilliant job
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

View attachment 590376
This is what a sharp knife can do when you get complacent.

@ MS 9x56
If it was really sharp you wouldn't have a finger.
What you have there is just a simple paper cut.
Ha ha ha ha ha
Bob

 

[Rare Breed]

@Rare Breed
That's why all my knives are set at the angle I want when I get them.
Doesn't matter what the preset angle is I set them to MY needs. 95 percent of my knives are set at 20 degrees for general use. Boning and heavy use knives are set at 25 degrees that way if I hit bone they are less likely to roll the edge.
Fillet and fine work knives are set at 17 degrees for ultra sharp for precise work.
That's where the Ken Onion comes into its own. You can dial in the precise angle you need for each knife. Easy quick and does a brilliant job
Bob

Nice Bob!!!

 

[375Ruger416]

@MS 9x56
That's the beauty of the Ken Onion. If used correctly it's almost impossible to over heat the blade. Ken is a knife maker and designed a sharpener that even I can use
Bob

Just ordered one, you guys convinced me!

 

[cajunchefray]

@HankBuck
The beauty of the Ken Onion edition is I can adjust the belt speed and using a worn fine belt in low speed actually polishes the edge.
To me it's all about learning to use it properly.
A coarse belt in high speed will reduce a blade to an ice pick very quickly.
Bob

Great information @Bob Nelson 35Whelen.
Sharpening knives is both science and art.

 

[Inline6]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned TSprof.