Good Gun Deals This Week

[Troubleshooter]

Looked over that auction list that @K-man posted. It looks like they're some winners on the list. several Ruger #1, an unknown Blaser, several Colt pistols, some SAKOS, a SIG P220, a few Brownings, and a Husqvarna. But, all would require hands on inspection.

I did a search for the auction house but could not find this auction listed, so no photos showing condition. However, the "El-series" Colts in .38 Super might be a worthwhile if they are in pristine, NIB condition with all the boxes, papers, etc. with which they came from the factory. I've sometimes seen those go for high prices, but as unfired. So, you would never be able to shoot them without loss of resale value. Depends on your objective.

 

[Troubleshooter]

Hello @K-man:
... but a person that always carries emergency "Deal cash" on them and stumbles into these sales with an open mind and good eye will find a deal 1/10th of the time. <snip> The best collectors I know are middle-class, humble people with the self-discipline to carry $10,000 in cash with them everywhere they go, yet they have the self-discipline to not blow it foolishly. Those guys are the ones with the epic collections because no man knows the day nor hour that the finest guns in the world appear for sale too cheap. The guy with the most physical cash at that moment wins the day, usually at 1/20th of fair market value to an auctioneer that couldn't care less what he's selling.

I would agree with this for a gun show type venue (the Wanenmacher comes to mind, among others) but I have never been to an auction which would not accept my personal check as payment, even in the five-figure range. But you are absolutely spot-on with the idea of having funds available and earmarked for when the right deal presents itself. Just don't see the need to bring cash to an auction.

Great thread though. Hope to learn quite a bit from the discussion here.

 

[Randy F]

With thanks again to @rookhawk and @Red Leg , for their invaluable advice, here a little teaser for the first success of this thread:

View attachment 442910

Thank you @Red Leg, the gunstore guy told me the following: it belonged to a now 92 year old lawyer, who bought it about 30 years ago, upon his retirement. As the gun store owner said about the lawyer, ”il s’est fait plaisir” / “he spoiled himself a bit”. It had been sitting in the gun rack for over 4 months now. A few offers had been made, but the owner wanted a certain minimum price for it. That’s where I picked it up.

Despite its substantial weight, the rifle feels very svelte and lively in my hands. Bringing it to my shoulder, is a direct alignment of my right eye. Some more pictures:

View attachment 442964View attachment 442965View attachment 442966View attachment 442967

Wow! Just...WOW! Congratulations!!!

 

[BourbonTrail]

I’ll put one up for discussion:

Merkel 8, 12 ga. Has some sizable dings on the bottom of the lock, looks like it’s been worked over by an amateur. Asking price $1295.

Merkel 8

Merkel 8 for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

 

[K-man]

Well it doesn't look like they will be posting any pictures or much details. here is the auction bill. View guns day of sale only.

 

[VertigoBE]

I hope everyone realizes what full coverage small acanthus/ scroll alone would cost. What an elegant magnificent thing. I can't wait to see it propped against a Roe, Red Stag, or Kudu.

I suspect the quality of that dense English walnut (probably the mountains of Turkey) gives the rifle a bit of heft most would not expect in a rifle of that caliber.

Hello @Red Leg, @rookhawk, all,

(I've put questions in italic, the information is normal font)

Now that we moved to the new house and there are no more inlaws around, I finally got around to weighing the rifle:

Rifle, unloaded, no scope, no sling: 3.95Kg or 8.64 pounds
Rifle, unloaded, with scope, no sling: 4.43Kg or 9.76 pounds
Rifle, unloaded, with scope, with sling: 4.67Kg or 10.3 pounds

Together with @rookhawk we determined it is a cock on open mauser action. It is very stiff to cock and operate. I will have a gunsmith take a look, if this can be in any way lightened or smoothened.

The bolt handle, due to the way it is bent, and being relatively short, means there is not much space between it and the rear-bell of the optic. Together with the very stiff cocking, this means that fast cycling is not going to be possible for the moment, for a quick second shot.

It does look like a bespoke Dumoulin Centurion, however I do not believe it to be a 'best' gun, as the wood to metal inletting is not always superb.

I have noticed that the forearm is touching the barrel lightly on the left side, with a slightly larger gap on the right side. It could be that the wood fore-end warped a bit after being in typical Belgian weather. Something for the gunsmith to take a look at. In any case, this will be a dry weather rifle only. There is too much moisture in the air here.

The claw mount seems to have a burr inside of some sorts, causing it to sometimes be impossible to remove it. I'll have the gunsmith take a look at that too.

There are some dents, dings, scratches in the wood. @rookhawk suggested to have the finish removed and layer up with rotten stone, slacum and oil. But best done by a professional I believe.

As I cycle the rifle unloaded, to get a feel for it (honestly, just enjoying handling this new rifle), I notice that the bolt hits the magazine follower each time, is this normal?

From the proofmarks, which were not stamped very clearly on one side, I believe there is a letter "H", which would make this a 1992 rifle. (so 29-30yo)

The ammunition I purchased for it, are two boxes of twenty rounds from the same lot of RWS 7x64 KS.

Overall, extremely happy with this rifle. The engraving is far more exquisite than the pictures first did justice. And the sight alignment with my right eye is something to try to be believed. Look at the target, bring the gun up and the cross hairs are exactly on target. Zero adjustment of the head necessary. It points better than my Beretta Silver Pigeon.

If you would like any other specific pictures, let me know! (No shooting yet though, as I first want to have it checked out in a proper gunstore).

Usually hunting rifles around here are zeroed for about 5cm/2inch high at 100m, so they are on the money at 200m and a few cm/inches low at 300m. However I'm wondering if with such a 1.5-4.5x18 straight tube Zeiss Diavari-C it would be perhaps better to have it shooting flat at 150m (i'm unlikely to ever attempt a 200m shot with it) and thus be a bit closer to zero on the 50 and 100m.

Cheers !

 

[VertigoBE]

So I have another one up for review. Currently located in France (no I will not buy this one , but some one else might, and I think it will make for some great reading, when our resident experts chime in)

Express Joseph Manton and Co - London and Calcutta - 470 Nitro express (asking 8900€):​

Express Joseph Manton and Co - London and Calcutta - 470 Nitro express

Express Joseph Manton and Co - London and Calcutta - 470 Nitro express en vente dans la catégorie Express Autre calibre sur www.naturabuy.fr

www.naturabuy.fr

​

I can translate where necessary from French. It is dated from the 70ies.

 

[CJW]

Definitely unique with 28" barrels.

 

[VertigoBE]

Hello @Red Leg, @rookhawk, all,

(I've put questions in italic, the information is normal font)

Now that we moved to the new house and there are no more inlaws around, I finally got around to weighing the rifle:

Rifle, unloaded, no scope, no sling: 3.95Kg or 8.64 pounds
Rifle, unloaded, with scope, no sling: 4.43Kg or 9.76 pounds
Rifle, unloaded, with scope, with sling: 4.67Kg or 10.3 pounds

Together with @rookhawk we determined it is a cock on open mauser action. It is very stiff to cock and operate. I will have a gunsmith take a look, if this can be in any way lightened or smoothened.

The bolt handle, due to the way it is bent, and being relatively short, means there is not much space between it and the rear-bell of the optic. Together with the very stiff cocking, this means that fast cycling is not going to be possible for the moment, for a quick second shot.

It does look like a bespoke Dumoulin Centurion, however I do not believe it to be a 'best' gun, as the wood to metal inletting is not always superb.

I have noticed that the forearm is touching the barrel lightly on the left side, with a slightly larger gap on the right side. It could be that the wood fore-end warped a bit after being in typical Belgian weather. Something for the gunsmith to take a look at. In any case, this will be a dry weather rifle only. There is too much moisture in the air here.

The claw mount seems to have a burr inside of some sorts, causing it to sometimes be impossible to remove it. I'll have the gunsmith take a look at that too.

There are some dents, dings, scratches in the wood. @rookhawk suggested to have the finish removed and layer up with rotten stone, slacum and oil. But best done by a professional I believe.

As I cycle the rifle unloaded, to get a feel for it (honestly, just enjoying handling this new rifle), I notice that the bolt hits the magazine follower each time, is this normal?

From the proofmarks, which were not stamped very clearly on one side, I believe there is a letter "H", which would make this a 1992 rifle. (so 29-30yo)

The ammunition I purchased for it, are two boxes of twenty rounds from the same lot of RWS 7x64 KS.

Overall, extremely happy with this rifle. The engraving is far more exquisite than the pictures first did justice. And the sight alignment with my right eye is something to try to be believed. Look at the target, bring the gun up and the cross hairs are exactly on target. Zero adjustment of the head necessary. It points better than my Beretta Silver Pigeon.

If you would like any other specific pictures, let me know! (No shooting yet though, as I first want to have it checked out in a proper gunstore).

Usually hunting rifles around here are zeroed for about 5cm/2inch high at 100m, so they are on the money at 200m and a few cm/inches low at 300m. However I'm wondering if with such a 1.5-4.5x18 straight tube Zeiss Diavari-C it would be perhaps better to have it shooting flat at 150m (i'm unlikely to ever attempt a 200m shot with it) and thus be a bit closer to zero on the 50 and 100m.

Cheers !

I’m off to the gun store tomorrow to have the Dumoulin looked over, hopefully it won’t get too expensive. Then hunting till Saturday for wild boar. A monster has been signalled on the premises…

No one any input on the best distance to sight in a 7x64 cartridge?

 

[Wyatt Smith]

If it were mine 2” high at 100 yards

 

[shootist~]

I just zero everything from .223 to 338WM at the same distance. In my case that's 219 yards (200 meters). This puts everything at ~1.75 to 2.5" high at 100 and 8 to 11 " low at 325 yards.

Having good steel targets available at those distances is a big factor. Plus having similar hold points (to 325), lowers the coefficient of brain fart.

 

[Cam Moon]

No one any input on the best distance to sight in a 7x64 cartridge?

Depends on what bullet and what muzzle velocity.
Rough figuring with a 140@ 2800-3000 fps 2" high @ 100 should work well.
For MPBR on a 6" target out to 300, you may go a bit higher. 2.5" or so, but keep in mind that will put you 3" low @ 300 and 3" high at the halfway point.
Personally I would stick with 2" high at 100. That will be your highest point, zeroing @around 100, and you still won't drop to 3"low until you're @ 230-240 or so.

 

[rookhawk]

Depends on what bullet and what muzzle velocity.
Rough figuring with a 140@ 2800-3000 fps 2" high @ 100 should work well.
For MPBR on a 6" target out to 300, you may go a bit higher. 2.5" or so, but keep in mind that will put you 3" low @ 300 and 3" high at the halfway point.
Personally I would stick with 2" high at 100. That will be your highest point, zeroing @around 100, and you still won't drop to 3"low until you're @ 230-240 or so.

@VertigoBE my son's 7x64 Brenneke was sighted in for 200 yard zero. That suited him very well as being about dead on or maybe an inch high at 50 yards for bush work in Africa and equally well for a 244 yard shot on a New Mexico Oryx he got back when he was 8.

For me, its not just the 0 distance of the 7x64 that is important, but also what bullet. A 140gr copper bullet is going to have the volumetric size and expansion of a 180gr bullet but will be fast enough to kill with hydrostatic shock and flat shooting enough for 300 yard shots quite easily. The best ammo we found, and we have a case of it off the black market, is the Barnes TTSX EURO Metric 140gr ammunition. It isn't supposed to be sold in the USA (Even though manufactured here) because its loaded to the stronger CIP proof laws rather than the SAAMI specs for USA.

My kid found It was enough gun to kill an eland with a heart shot, but it doesn't make a big enough hole for easy tracking in extremely large game. (no blood, animal ran <200 yards, took us an hour to recover) For Eland or Moose, its on the extreme end of iffy, but for Stag/Kudu/Gemsbok/Elk its about the perfect caliber and bullet, significantly more powerful than a 7x57.

 

[rookhawk]

Update over here. The reason I haven't posted any "Good Gun Deals This Week" for almost a month is that I've not found any. With the holidays and covid lockdowns, bad guns are selling for obscene money.

I'll be happy to post the deals as I see them but we've hit a dry spell.

In the meantime, there are always good deals on gun books. Head on over to abebooks.com and search all the used independent book dealers for quality safari books at cheap prices. You can search for first edition or "leather bound" as options. Some of my favorite leatherbound safari books sell for $15-$35.

Must haves:

African Hunting Rifles - Pondoro Taylor
The Gun and It's development - WW Greener
Horn of the Hunter - Robert Ruark
Vintage Guns for the Modern Shot - Diggory Hadoke
The Rifleman's Rifle - Roger Rule
Pet Loads - Ken Waters
Custom Gunmakers of the 20th Century vol 1 & 2 - Michael Petrov
Woodleigh Bullets Loading Manual

Enjoy some reading this cold January until you can find some guns to enjoy!

 

[Aaron N]

Here’s a beautiful rifle I stumbled across this morning.

MAUSER M98 COMMERCIAL 7X64MM USED GUN LOG 248189

MAUSER M98 COMMERCIAL 7X64MM USED GUN LOG 248189 for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

Seeing as it is missing the claw mounts, what’s a “fair” value?

 

[rookhawk]

Here’s a beautiful rifle I stumbled across this morning.

MAUSER M98 COMMERCIAL 7X64MM USED GUN LOG 248189

MAUSER M98 COMMERCIAL 7X64MM USED GUN LOG 248189 for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

Seeing as it is missing the claw mounts, what’s a “fair” value?

As it sits, $2500-$3500. It will actually conserve and clean up very nicely. Retime the screws, nitre blue a few things, lay up some oil finish.

The drop at heel is extreme, so only an expert execution of a straight tube scope would be usable. $2800 for the mounts installed and $2200 for the swaro 1-6x24. When complete with the above, it’s a $6000-$6500 rifle.

very nice gun but retailed by a max-markup retailer. (Top-10 highest price dealer). It’s at 2x present FMV in my opinion.

 

[Aaron N]

Here’s a beautiful rifle I stumbled across this morning.


As it sits, $2500-$3500. It will actually conserve and clean up very nicely. Retime the screws, nitre blue a few things, lay up some oil finish.

The drop at heel is extreme, so only an expert execution of a straight tube scope would be usable. $2800 for the mounts installed and $2200 for the swaro 1-6x24. When complete with the above, it’s a $6000-$6500 rifle.

very nice gun but retailed by a max-markup retailer. (Top-10 highest price dealer). It’s at 2x present FMV in my opinion.

That seems to be along the lines of what I had in mind. What do you make of the screws on the rear bridge, would they have been from a peep sight? Also, I don’t think I’ve noticed a floor plate release in that style, were they somewhat common?

 

[Aaron N]

The drop at heel is extreme, so only an expert execution of a straight tube scope would be usable.

And because I’m fairly clueless, you’d want a straight tube so that the optic will be as low as possible without a bell? Will the flag safety inherently add the need for a bit of height?

 

[rookhawk]

That seems to be along the lines of what I had in mind. What do you make of the screws on the rear bridge, would they have been from a peep sight? Also, I don’t think I’ve noticed a floor plate release in that style, were they somewhat common?

@Aaron N I’d leave some of the feature opinions to other experts on this forum like @Red Leg , folks that know more about Continental arms.

You asked a couple questions, I can give conjecture and await someone more knowledgable to correct. The screws on the right side of the rear bridge are for a filler blank to replace what was once a side mounted aperture sight. Weird, because it also has a cocking piece aperture sight, probably added at a later date when the claw mounts were added. (The side aperture sight would have interfered with the optic, the safety was swapped at same time)

The lever on the bottom is weird. I’ve never seen anything like it. 90% it is an elaborate way to drop the magazine floor plate. 10% chance its to unlock the stock from the action as a sort of take-down arrangement like Mannlichers and H&H rifles.

When I say straight tube scope, definitely, throwing the safety shroud in the trash is top priority. A three-position model 70 style safety is a completely acceptable modification to a vintage gun. The rifle would be miserable with high scope mounts and all that drop on the comb, kicking like a donkey. The scope must sit at as close to the same plane as the iron sights for reasonable use.

Just my opinions on all three points.

 

[Aaron N]

A three-position model 70 style safety is a completely acceptable modification to a vintage gun.

Is it possible to have a three position with the cocking piece aperture? Because that really is the icing on the cake