CZ 550 Custom Safari

[CoElkHunter]

My 35 Whelen was built on a 1937 VZ24.. BRNO made a TON of rifles for China in 1937 right as the Second Sino-Japanese War kicked off.. (all China bound rifles serial numbers start with a letter P).. These are actually some of the best VZ24's you can find.. they are identical in quality, etc to the VZ24's that were produced for "home" use.. but as a rule saw VERY LITTLE action in WWII.. the vast majority of them went into Chinese warehouses.. and were never deployed.. The Japanese overran almost all of the depots and storage facilities where the VZ24's were stored very early on.. The Chinese never had a chance to put them into service.. When the war ended tens of thousands of the rifles were recovered from the Japanese, still in their shipping crates and soaked in packing grease..

My 416 Taylor is also built on a Large Ring Mauser action (Argentine Mauser.. not a VZ24).. the 98 action is an outstanding foundation for the 416 T in my opinion..

If you can get that VZ24 in 416 T off of Gunbroker at a reasonable price.. I'd be all over that like stink on a baboons butt.. My guess is it is a wonderful rifle..

mdwest,
Thanks so much for the history on this rifle! It is very interesting! I may bid on this rifle on the low end and see what happens? Thanks!
CEH

 

[CoElkHunter]

Shootist43,
Yeah I wouldn't know about the crossbolts? I haven't seen any crossbolts run through the receiver on synthetic stocks? Somebody more knowledgeable here on AH would have to answer that question? Thanks!
CEH

Yeah, Shootist43 your right! This Taylor on GB has a laminated wooden stock, so where (if needed?) are the receiver crossbolts? Maybe it has the current stock on it because the previous stock cracked w/o having crossbolts? I guess this is one of the issues when buying a used gun with little information about it's past? Thanks!

 

[mdwest]

Looks like a Boyd’s laminate to me.. if so they are pretty rock solid...

A crossbolt certainly wouldn’t hurt.. but I don’t think it’s absolutely necessary with that stock..

A better recoil pad than the standard 1/2” Boyd’s pad it’s sporting is recommended though lol..

 

[One Day...]

Typically laminated stocks do not need cross bolts because the risk of them splitting is extremely low, if not null. There is almost more glue than wood in them. The same goes for synthetic stocks. In any case, including putting cross bolts for aesthetic reasons, the front cross bolt should be immediately to the rear of the action front recoil lug, and the rear cross bolt should typically be at the rear of the magazine, between the magazine and the trigger.

Looking at the .416 Taylor VZ 24 rifle on GB, my reactions are:

• Going by the stamping on the barrel, this seems to be a home project. It does not necessarily mean that anything is wrong, but it means that the rifle is likely not coming from a pro shop. Was the home smith qualified? Is the barrel properly threaded and screwed in the axis of the action? How precise is the head spacing? Was the bolt head properly opened? How well was the chamber cut? How are the feeding ramps? How is the extractor? Was too much material removed from either?
• I also observe that the iron sights are screwed on the barrel. How deep are the screw holes? Too many threads? Too few threads?
• The bolt handle had been replaced. How well was this done? Is the weld reliable?
• The original safety was replaced. How well was this done? Does the camming surface move the cocking piece back when the safety is engaged? Does the rife fire accidentally when the safety is removed after the trigger was pulled with the safety on?
• Was work done on the trigger? If yes, is there enough sear engagement left for it to be safe? Were the contact hardened surfaces removed?
• Etc. etc. etc.
• The stock shape and color are ugly as sin, but this can be easily corrected with wood rasp files, sand paper and epoxy paint...

The $650 starting price reflects, in my mind, pretty well what this offer is: a gamble. This may be a fantastic buy from a gifted home smith, or this may be a complete and non-fixable waste of time and money. The risk is relatively low because the price is low, and the risk is further lowered by the fact that there is a 3 day inspection/return policy.

• You can check the safety and trigger work yourself if you know what to look for and what to do.
• If a local gunsmith has a set of head space .458 Win gauges, you can check the head spacing easily.
• It is also easy to check the feeding, extraction, etc. if you have some .416 Taylor ammo handy or if you buy a box for this purpose. Apparently midsouthshooterssupply.com will sell you 10 Norma factory rounds for $80 (ouch!). Based on ammoseek.com this is the only factory offering in the US at the time... Remove the firing pin from the bolt if you use live ammo to check feeding, extraction, etc.
• I do not see anything on the GB ad that says that you cannot shoot the rifle during the 3 day inspection period. Aside from the remote risk of the rifle blowing up, this is a good test. I would still ask the seller if he is OK with test firing the rifle. Kidding aside, check the barrel first, then tie the rifle to a gun cradle and pull the trigger with a string on the first shot, one never knows...

What would I personally do? For $345 more I would without a second thought get the brand new 100% safe purchase $995 CZ 550 .416 Rigby also on GB right now. But then I have not been bitten by the Taylor bug, so my opinion is just that, an opinion, and like body parts, we all have one, right

 

[bruce moulds]

good post one day.
bruce.

 

[bruce moulds]

good post one day.
bruce.

 

[Shootist43]

CoElkHunter can't you "ask the seller a question" re the gunsmithing done to this rifle? He may not know, than again he might. I had an 03-A3 converted to a 35 Whelen by a gunsmith. The barrel was etched not stamped 35 Whelen. Replacement safeties on Mauser actions are pretty common as well. My receiver was also drilled and tapped like the thousands and most likely tens of thousands of sporterized Mauser actions.

 

[CoElkHunter]

Typically laminated stocks do not need cross bolts because the risk of them splitting is extremely low, if not null. There is almost more glue than wood in them. The same goes for synthetic stocks. In any case, including putting cross bolts for aesthetic reasons, the front cross bolt should be immediately to the rear of the action front recoil lug, and the rear cross bolt should typically be at the rear of the magazine, between the magazine and the trigger.

Looking at the .416 Taylor VZ 24 rifle on GB, my reactions are:

• Going by the stamping on the barrel, this seems to be a home project. It does not necessarily mean that anything is wrong, but it means that the rifle is likely not coming from a pro shop. Was the home smith qualified? Is the barrel properly threaded and screwed in the axis of the action? How precise is the head spacing? Was the bolt head properly opened? How well was the chamber cut? How are the feeding ramps? How is the extractor? Was too much material removed from either?
• I also observe that the iron sights are screwed on the barrel. How deep are the screw holes? Too many threads? Too few threads?
• The bolt handle had been replaced. How well was this done? Is the weld reliable?
• The original safety was replaced. How well was this done? Does the camming surface move the cocking piece back when the safety is engaged? Does the rife fire accidentally when the safety is removed after the trigger was pulled with the safety on?
• Was work done on the trigger? If yes, is there enough sear engagement left for it to be safe? Were the contact hardened surfaces removed?
• Etc. etc. etc.
• The stock shape and color are ugly as sin, but this can be easily corrected with wood rasp files, sand paper and epoxy paint...

The $650 starting price reflects, in my mind, pretty well what this offer is: a gamble. This may be a fantastic buy from a gifted home smith, or this may be a complete and non-fixable waste of time and money. The risk is relatively low because the price is low, and the risk is further lowered by the fact that there is a 3 day inspection/return policy.

• You can check the safety and trigger work yourself if you know what to look for and what to do.
• If a local gunsmith has a set of head space .458 Win gauges, you can check the head spacing easily.
• It is also easy to check the feeding, extraction, etc. if you have some .416 Taylor ammo handy or if you buy a box for this purpose. Apparently midsouthshooterssupply.com will sell you 10 Norma factory rounds for $80 (ouch!). Based on ammoseek.com this is the only factory offering in the US at the time... Remove the firing pin from the bolt if you use live ammo to check feeding, extraction, etc.
• I do not see anything on the GB ad that says that you cannot shoot the rifle during the 3 day inspection period. Aside from the remote risk of the rifle blowing up, this is a good test. I would still ask the seller if he is OK with test firing the rifle. Kidding aside, check the barrel first, then tie the rifle to a gun cradle and pull the trigger with a string on the first shot, one never knows...

What would I personally do? For $345 more I would without a second thought get the brand new 100% safe purchase $995 CZ 550 .416 Rigby also on GB right now. But then I have not been bitten by the Taylor bug, so my opinion is just that, an opinion, and like body parts, we all have one, right

One Day,
Thanks so much for all of this overwhelming information! Wow! I guess I haven’t thought of most of these things when looking to buy a used rifle, even if it was in my hands! Could be scary! The new Rigby is looking better all the time! But, as usual, someone will outbid me, buy the rifle and put five rounds through it and then put it in their gun safe! But thanks for your input on this!
CEH

 

[CoElkHunter]

CoElkHunter can't you "ask the seller a question" re the gunsmithing done to this rifle? He may not know, than again he might. I had an 03-A3 converted to a 35 Whelen by a gunsmith. The barrel was etched not stamped 35 Whelen. Replacement safeties on Mauser actions are pretty common as well. My receiver was also drilled and tapped like the thousands and most likely tens of thousands of sporterized Mauser actions.

Shootist43,
I can try, but it’s from a dealer who probably wouldn’t know a Mauser action or .416 Taylor cartridge from a .465 h and h cartridge, except there’s a “6” somewhere in there? Ha! Ha!
CEH

 

[CoElkHunter]

Shootist43,
I can try, but it’s from a dealer who probably wouldn’t know a Mauser action or .416 Taylor cartridge from a .465 h and h cartridge, except there’s a “6” somewhere in there? Ha! Ha!
CEH

I just sent a message through GB to the seller, who is a dealer. We’ll see if/what response I’ll get?

 

[CoElkHunter]

good post one day.
bruce.

Bruce,
Too bad your not here in the U.S. I would buy this rifle, have you shoot it, and if it didn’t blow up on you, all would be well! Ha! Ha! Ha!
CEH

 

[One Day...]

One Day,
Thanks so much for all of this overwhelming information! Wow! I guess I haven’t thought of most of these things when looking to buy a used rifle, even if it was in my hands! Could be scary! The new Rigby is looking better all the time! But, as usual, someone will outbid me, buy the rifle and put five rounds through it and then put it in their gun safe! But thanks for your input on this!
CEH

You just never know. I bought another one, in as-new condition, for $750 a few months ago which I would have sworn I would be outbid for, but nobody else bid... Good luck!

 

[CoElkHunter]

You just never know. I bought one for $750 which I would have sworn I would be outbid for, but nobody else bid... Good luck!

Yes, we’ll see! The suspense is killing me! Ha! Ha! Ha!

 

[CoElkHunter]

Typically laminated stocks do not need cross bolts because the risk of them splitting is extremely low, if not null. There is almost more glue than wood in them. The same goes for synthetic stocks. In any case, including putting cross bolts for aesthetic reasons, the front cross bolt should be immediately to the rear of the action front recoil lug, and the rear cross bolt should typically be at the rear of the magazine, between the magazine and the trigger.

Looking at the .416 Taylor VZ 24 rifle on GB, my reactions are:

• Going by the stamping on the barrel, this seems to be a home project. It does not necessarily mean that anything is wrong, but it means that the rifle is likely not coming from a pro shop. Was the home smith qualified? Is the barrel properly threaded and screwed in the axis of the action? How precise is the head spacing? Was the bolt head properly opened? How well was the chamber cut? How are the feeding ramps? How is the extractor? Was too much material removed from either?
• I also observe that the iron sights are screwed on the barrel. How deep are the screw holes? Too many threads? Too few threads?
• The bolt handle had been replaced. How well was this done? Is the weld reliable?
• The original safety was replaced. How well was this done? Does the camming surface move the cocking piece back when the safety is engaged? Does the rife fire accidentally when the safety is removed after the trigger was pulled with the safety on?
• Was work done on the trigger? If yes, is there enough sear engagement left for it to be safe? Were the contact hardened surfaces removed?
• Etc. etc. etc.
• The stock shape and color are ugly as sin, but this can be easily corrected with wood rasp files, sand paper and epoxy paint...

The $650 starting price reflects, in my mind, pretty well what this offer is: a gamble. This may be a fantastic buy from a gifted home smith, or this may be a complete and non-fixable waste of time and money. The risk is relatively low because the price is low, and the risk is further lowered by the fact that there is a 3 day inspection/return policy.

• You can check the safety and trigger work yourself if you know what to look for and what to do.
• If a local gunsmith has a set of head space .458 Win gauges, you can check the head spacing easily.
• It is also easy to check the feeding, extraction, etc. if you have some .416 Taylor ammo handy or if you buy a box for this purpose. Apparently midsouthshooterssupply.com will sell you 10 Norma factory rounds for $80 (ouch!). Based on ammoseek.com this is the only factory offering in the US at the time... Remove the firing pin from the bolt if you use live ammo to check feeding, extraction, etc.
• I do not see anything on the GB ad that says that you cannot shoot the rifle during the 3 day inspection period. Aside from the remote risk of the rifle blowing up, this is a good test. I would still ask the seller if he is OK with test firing the rifle. Kidding aside, check the barrel first, then tie the rifle to a gun cradle and pull the trigger with a string on the first shot, one never knows...

What would I personally do? For $345 more I would without a second thought get the brand new 100% safe purchase $995 CZ 550 .416 Rigby also on GB right now. But then I have not been bitten by the Taylor bug, so my opinion is just that, an opinion, and like body parts, we all have one, right

The Rigby also has the American style stock and TWO cross bolts? All the past photos of CZ Rigbys I’ve seen for sale have just one (to the rear of the receiver) crossbolt, and not many with the American style stock? Maybe this one on GB is a newer model? Maybe it doesn’t matter or maybe like my newer CZ .458, I have not experienced the rough action or feeding issues that other CZ owners have described here on AH? Thanks!

 

[CoElkHunter]

good post one day.
bruce.

Bruce,
What option here would you consider doing? The used Taylor or new CZ Rigby? I know there’s a cost difference with the two rifles here, but I’m not familiar with either cartridge or the Brno VZ24 and haven’t shot either cartridge. As long as the recoil of either isn’t greater or at least the same as my CZ .458 WM, than the cartridge itself wouldn’t be an issue other than cost and/or availability of the ammo.
Thanks!
CEH

 

[One Day...]

In answer to your questions CoElkHunter:

CZ 550 have had zero, one, or two cross bolts rather unpredictably (from an outsider perspective) over the last couple years. Apparently the single (or third) cross bolt behind the tang area may have been a reaction to some stocks splitting under recoil because the tang area was not relieved enough in some factory runs, but the traditional (and rational) location for the two cross bolts is as previously stated, and where they are on this particular .416 Rigby: the front cross bolt should be immediately to the rear of the action front recoil lug, and the rear cross bolt should typically be at the rear of the magazine, between the magazine and the trigger mechanism. Preventing a crack at the wrist is not accomplished by way of adding a third cross bolt there, it is accomplished by relieving the stock (i.e. leaving a visible gap behind the rear tang) to ensure that the recoil is absorbed by the front recoil lug rather than the rear action screw. Truth be told, I suspect that only one cross bolt behind the front recoil lug is all that is needed... All of this is moot with a synthetic stock that includes a full length aluminum bedding block (the Bell & Carlson stock sold as the CZ Aramid stock or directly by B&C is truly awesome in that - and may other - regard). Unless you love walnut, do not think twice, add a B&C stock for $290 and you will never have a stock issue...

As discussed in other posts, it seems pretty objective to state that some CZ 550 series are pretty clean from the factory (my .375 H&H was, and apparently so was your .458 Win) and some are not (my .416 Rigby was not). I suspect that it has to do with how sharp the cutting tools were the day an action was made, and whether a particular rifle was produced with fresh cutting tools (clean smooth cuts, no burrs, etc.) or with end-of-life cutting tools (machining marks, burrs, etc.). You see clean and not so clean CZ 550 throughout the years of production. If there was a seemingly "turning-point," it was when they decided to move from the Brno ZKK branding to the CZ branding, sometime during the 1990's / early 2000's if memory serves. I generally agree that the ZKK series were generally more consistent (my earlier ZKK 602 .375 H&H and ZKK 601 7x64 were OK) and I suspect that they had a manual deburring step in the production then, which they clearly do not have anymore otherwise some obvious burrs would not make it to the market. It is a shame, if you ask me, and a rather stupid minor cost-savings decision that likely is costing them major revenue loss because it gave rise to the "CZ are crap" internet legend...

The .416 Rigby is by far the most versatile (best?) .416 cartridge out there. Its cavernous capacity allows it to be loaded at very low pressures for typical .416 performance, which has been historically good enough, and which the 416 Taylor, .416 Hoffman, .416 Rem, .416 Ruger, and many others all duplicate but at higher pressure. OR, the .416 Rigby can be hot loaded at .416 Weatherby (which is nothing but a .416 Rigby shell with a belt) level, into a different dimension of performance ... and recoil (there ain't no free lunch, right?)...

In terms of recoil, the typical .458 Win. Mag. 500 gr load at 2,100 fps in a 10 lbs. rifle produces about 55 ft/lbs of free recoil. The .416 Taylor pushing a 400 gr slug at 2,300 fps from a 10 lbs. rifle produces about 48 ft/lbs; and the .416 Rigby shooting the same 400 gr load at 2,400 fps will produce in a 10 lbs. rifle about 58 ft/lbs of recoil. In so many words, there is not a whole lot of difference. The lighter bullet recoil is offset by the higher velocity recoil. For comparison, the .416 Wby pushes that same 400 slug at 2,700 fps with 83 ft/lbs of recoil from a 10 lbs. rifle. You can get the .416 Rigby up there if you want, but you will remember the first time you pull the trigger on that load...

.416 Taylor vs. .416 Rigby? Same difference if you load at historic Rigby levels... The Taylor is more compact and can be chambered in a "standard length" Mauser 98 action. The .416 Rigby requires a true magnum length action (or extensive rework of the standard action magazine well and some removing of metal from the front lug area). The Taylor operates at significantly higher pressure. This used to be a meaningful argument in the days or cordite. It is essentially an obsolete argument with fundamentally temperature-stable modern propellants. Ah, but the romance of the Rigby, Robert Ruark and Harry Selby! Yes, but only to those who care about it... Objectively, the Taylor is less versatile because it is already loaded to its absolute maximum powder capacity. The Rigby leaves you a lot of room to play and up the velocity if it is of interest to you. Beware though, that for every 10% increase in velocity, the price to pay is a 20% increase in recoil... Another consideration for those who do not roll their own, is that there is plenty of factory ammo for the Rigby, even in Africa. Good luck with the Taylor, even in the US, on that front...

I hope this all helps

 

[bruce moulds]

c e h,
what a dilemma you have!
you asked what I would do so for what it costs you here goes.
I do not have the time to do all the testing and checking required for the so called custom taylor, even if it is totally o.k.
to me the 416 rigby is a dinosaur from the cordite days, and is just too big for what you need it for.
the taylor appeals to me more on a practical basis.
paying for a rigby rifle panders to the law of diminishing returns for the dollar.
great to have a genuine rigby in 416 rigby, but if you take your hand off it you can do just as well for a lot less money, and spend that on ammo practising shooting.
in my case a new m70 in 416 rem would have a warranty that might be meaningful in a practical 416 chambering.
bruce.

 

[CoElkHunter]

In answer to your questions CoElkHunter:

CZ 550 have had zero, one, or two cross bolts rather unpredictably (from an outsider perspective) over the last couple years. Apparently the single (or third) cross bolt behind the tang area may have been a reaction to some stocks splitting under recoil because the tang area was not relieved enough in some factory runs, but the traditional (and rational) location for the two cross bolts is as previously stated, and where they are on this particular .416 Rigby: the front cross bolt should be immediately to the rear of the action front recoil lug, and the rear cross bolt should typically be at the rear of the magazine, between the magazine and the trigger mechanism. Preventing a crack at the wrist is not accomplished by way of adding a third cross bolt there, it is accomplished by relieving the stock (i.e. leaving a visible gap behind the rear tang) to ensure that the recoil is absorbed by the front recoil lug rather than the rear action screw. Truth be told, I suspect that only one cross bolt behind the front recoil lug is all that is needed... All of this is moot with a synthetic stock that includes a full length aluminum bedding block (the Bell & Carlson stock sold as the CZ Aramid stock or the B&C brand is truly awesome in that - and may other - regard). Unless you love walnut, do not think twice, add a B&C stock for $290 and you will never have a stock issue...

As discussed in other posts, it seems pretty objective to state that some CZ 550 series are pretty clean from the factory (my .375 H&H was, and apparently so was your .458 Win) and some are not (my .416 Rigby was not). I suspect that it has to do with how sharp the cutting tools were the day an action was made, and whether a particular rifle was produced with fresh cutting tools (clean smooth cuts, no burrs, etc.) or with end-of-life cutting tools (machining marks, burrs, etc.). You see clean and not so clean CZ 550 throughout the years of production. If there was a seemingly "turning-point," it was when they decided to move from the Brno ZKK branding to the CZ branding, sometime during the 1990's / early 2000's if memory serves. I generally agree that the ZKK series were generally more consistent (my earlier ZKK 602 .375 H&H and ZKK 601 7x64 were OK) and I suspect that they had a manual deburring step in the production then, which they clearly do not have anymore otherwise some obvious burrs would not make it to the market. It is a shame, if you ask me, and a rather stupid minor cost-savings decision that likely is costing them major revenue loss because it gave rise to the "CZ are crap" internet legend...

The .416 Rigby is by far the best .416 cartridge out there. Its cavernous capacity allows it to be loaded at very low pressures for typical .416 performance, which has been historically good enough, and which the 416 Taylor, .416 Hoffman, .416 Rem, .416 Ruger, and many others all duplicate but at higher pressure. OR, the .416 Rigby can be hot loaded at .416 Weatherby (which is nothing but a .416 Rigby shell with a belt) level, into a different dimension of performance ... and recoil (there ain't no free lunch, right?)...

In terms of recoil, the typical .458 Win. Mag. 500 gr load at 2,100 fps in a 10 lbs. rifle produces about 55 ft/lbs of free recoil. The .416 Taylor pushing a 400 gr slug at 2,300 fps from a 10 lbs. rifle produces about 48 ft/lbs; and the .416 Rigby shooting the same 400 gr load at 2,400 fps will produce in a 10 lbs. rifle about 58 ft/lbs of recoil. In so many words, there is not a whole lot of difference. The lighter bullet recoil is offset by the higher velocity recoil. For comparison, the .416 Wby pushes that same 400 slug at 2,700 fps with 83 ft/lbs of recoil from a 10 lbs. rifle. You can get the .416 Rigby up there if you want, but you will remember the first time you pull the trigger on that load...

.416 Taylor vs. .416 Rigby? Same difference if you load at historic Rigby levels... The Taylor is more compact and can be chambered in a "standard length" Mauser 98 action. The .416 Rigby requires a true magnum length action. The Taylor operates at significantly higher pressure. This used to be a meaningful argument in the days or cordite. It is essentially an obsolete argument with fundamentally temperature-stable modern propellants. Ah, but the romance of the Rigby, Robert Ruark and Harry Selby! Yes, but only to those who care about it... Objectively, the Taylor is less versatile because it is already loaded to its absolute maximum powder capacity. The Rigby leaves you a lot of room to play and up the velocity if it is of interest to you. Beware though, that for every 10% increase in velocity, the price to pay is a 20% increase in recoil... Another consideration for those who do not roll their own, is that there is plenty of factory ammo for the Rigby, even in Africa. Good luck with the Taylor, even in the US, on that front...

I hope this all helps

One Day,
Thanks so much for explaining ALL of this and taking the time to respond to my uninformed (ignorant) questions, especially regarding the crossbolts! I had asked about this on a different thread before, but I never received an answer. You know, there’s many people here on AH who have these questions to ask, but no one they personally know who would be able to answer the questions, especially regarding large bore hunting rifles? My fellow elk hunters don’t own or have a clue about these larger bore rifles. A couple have .45-70 Marlins, but not the same animal. As you have explained in detail the differences, I’m now leaning towards the Rigby. So thanks again for time and your response!
CEH

 

[bruce moulds]

One Day,
Thanks so much for explaining ALL of this and taking the time to respond to my uninformed (ignorant) questions, especially regarding the crossbolts! I had asked about this on a different thread before, but I never received an answer. You know, there’s many people here on AH who have these questions to ask, but no one they personally know who would be able to answer the questions, especially regarding large bore hunting rifles? My fellow elk hunters don’t own or have a clue about these larger bore rifles. A couple have .45-70 Marlins, but not the same animal. As you have explained in detail the differences, I’m now leaning towards the Rigby. So thanks again for time and your response!
CEH

c e h,
do not put yourself down.
ignorance is achieved by not asking questions.
an enquiring mind is a healthy thing.
bruce.

 

[CoElkHunter]

c e h,
what a dilemma you have!
you asked what I would do so for what it costs you here goes.
I do not have the time to do all the testing and checking required for the so called custom taylor, even if it is totally o.k.
to me the 416 rigby is a dinosaur from the cordite days, and is just too big for what you need it for.
the taylor appeals to me more on a practical basis.
paying for a rigby rifle panders to the law of diminishing returns for the dollar.
great to have a genuine rigby in 416 rigby, but if you take your hand off it you can do just as well for a lot less money, and spend that on ammo practising shooting.
in my case a new m70 in 416 rem would have a warranty that might be meaningful in a practical 416 chambering.
bruce.

Bruce,
As always, you have great insight and I really appreciate your responses. I’m not one for nostalgia if it costs more money. I really can’t afford nostalgia usually, although I enjoy reading about others who can. Anyway, in this case, it’s about a new CZ Rigby for about $345.00 us more than a used Brno VZ24 Taylor with an unknown origin? I’m sure I can handload the Taylor cheaper than the Rigby. The question would be what shooting condition the Taylor rifle is in? It’s probably good, but who knows? If the rifle was local I could look at it and take it to a gunsmith, but it’s on Gun Broker. I would get a 3 day inspection once it was delivered, but? Most of the Taylor calibered rifles I’ve seen here are in the 2-3k us (or more) price range, which I don’t want to spend. This one is at auction for $650.00 us. I’ve also considered the .416 Remington in the Winchester, but the rifles seem a bit more expensive. Anyway, I’m not in a hurry, I just happened to see both of these rifles come up for sale at the same time and it started my large bore rifle juices flowing and my fingers typing here on AH! Ha! Ha! Thanks!
CEH