Chokes Loosening

Taging653

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Curious to hear everyone’s experience - is it more common for a flush or extended choke to loosen on its own? What about factory vs after-market?
 
when properly seated I havent had issue with any chokes loosening, whether factory or aftermarket (I mostly shoot briley, but have shot some carlson and some other brands as well over the years) unless Ive been shooting a very high volume of shells...

I use a briley choke wrench to seat chokes (as well as to take them out).. I dont snug them down gorilla tight.. but I do make sure they are slightly tighter than "hand tight"... never a problem when I do that..

this is out of a variety of guns... webley & scott, berretta, Benelli, and remington are the most often shot.. O/U's and semi's...

If I get in a hurry and just try to install them by hand, there are times Ive had chokes come slightly loose.. but thankfully have always caught it before they became loose enough to be a problem of any sort (when shooting a round of skeet, trap, or after a couple of sporting clays stations for example, i fairly habitually check chokes.. just to make sure they are still snug... but when out doing something like dove hunting in TX, where I might shoot a half box of shells all day long if Im lucky.. I typically just snug them up and dont check them again until Im taking them out at the end of the day)..
 
None of the things you mentioned seen to have any bearing on my choke tubes coming loose. The only time it's been much of a problem was with certain ported tubes with muzzle brake type slots in them, like the Comp-n-Choke. As soon as there's a bit of carbon build up, the problem seems to take care of itself, and if not removed and cleaned, the tube can be a real pain to get out.
 
I have never had them come loose. A drop of oil on the threads and tighten them per the manufactures recommendation.....

What brand of shotgun and chokes tubes are you using?
 
All of my chokes are extended and either Carlson's, Muller or Briely. All of the factory chokes (except Blaser because they farmed it out to Briley) I've received from different gun manufacturers have not been up to my standards when it comes to the measurements and consistency of pattern...but that's a whole different topic.

I currently own Benelli, Beretta and Blaser shotguns, along with several other brands that I no longer have.

I leave my chokes in when I come home from the range or a day of hunting. After swabbing the bore and getting it clean, I remove the choke and clean both the male and female threads. A dab of oil is placed on the choke threads before it's reinstalled and snugged "hand tight" into the barrel. There it stays until the next time.

In the field or on the clays range, I frequently check my chokes to make sure they are still snug. Every now and then I've found that one has come loose, but not too often. Although, it's happened enough that I've made it a habit to do so.

I don't like using a wrench to tighten the choke, although I'd make an exception for flush fitting ones. I just try to snug them, and not overtighten them. Those threads are tiny and overstressing them has the potential to cost you a new barrel. Especially expensive if it happens to be an O/U or SxS. I'd rather just check them between strings of geese or when walking between sporting clay stations.
 
I’d suggest using grease not oil on your choke tubes. Particularly given that quite often you are screwing a stainless tube into a carbon steel barrel. It is just not the right application for oil. But then, I am a chemical engineer so I’m probably too analytical on this stuff.
 
Curious to hear everyone’s experience - is it more common for a flush or extended choke to loosen on its own? What about factory vs after-market?
@Taging653 are you going to respond to this thread..... Or just a new guy trying to build credit???
 
I’d suggest using grease not oil on your choke tubes. Particularly given that quite often you are screwing a stainless tube into a carbon steel barrel. It is just not the right application for oil. But then, I am a chemical engineer so I’m probably too analytical on this stuff.
You're not overthinking it. Carbon fouling and galvanic action between dissimilar metals, especially if things aren't cleaned and lubricated for years on end, as some people tend to do, can lead to some bad amateur gunsmithing.

Seen more than one barrel ruined by a gunsmith that took a flame to a barrel thinking he was going to get a stuck choke tube out by heating it.
 
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I’d suggest using grease not oil on your choke tubes. Particularly given that quite often you are screwing a stainless tube into a carbon steel barrel. It is just not the right application for oil. But then, I am a chemical engineer so I’m probably too analytical on this stuff.
Would anti-seize work well for this?
 
Would anti-seize work well for this?

There is grease designed specifically for this type of application. I use either RIG or K80.
 
Curious to hear everyone’s experience - is it more common for a flush or extended choke to loosen on its own? What about factory vs after-market?
@Taging653: Yes, most of mine loosen slightly (both flush or extended) including Browning Citori, Caesar Guerini, Benelli SBE & Montefeltro etc.. After 10-20 rounds i give them a slight turn - less then 1/8” and just use my finger - stick it inside bore for flush mount (obviously empty gun)…its no big deal and during a 100 round of clays - tighten 4-5 times when walking between stations. I’ve heard if you use a choke “wrench” you can get them tight enough that they will Not loosen but I’m not doing that because of risking them getting seized
 
Would anti-seize work well for this?

Try this. Threading stainless into carbon is potentially a pretty big problem. The right lube is important. Gun oil is not the right lube.

Image1726347227.995776.jpg
 

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