@Taging653 are you going to respond to this thread..... Or just a new guy trying to build credit???Curious to hear everyone’s experience - is it more common for a flush or extended choke to loosen on its own? What about factory vs after-market?
You're not overthinking it. Carbon fouling and galvanic action between dissimilar metals, especially if things aren't cleaned and lubricated for years on end, as some people tend to do, can lead to some bad amateur gunsmithing.I’d suggest using grease not oil on your choke tubes. Particularly given that quite often you are screwing a stainless tube into a carbon steel barrel. It is just not the right application for oil. But then, I am a chemical engineer so I’m probably too analytical on this stuff.
Would anti-seize work well for this?I’d suggest using grease not oil on your choke tubes. Particularly given that quite often you are screwing a stainless tube into a carbon steel barrel. It is just not the right application for oil. But then, I am a chemical engineer so I’m probably too analytical on this stuff.
Would anti-seize work well for this?
@Taging653: Yes, most of mine loosen slightly (both flush or extended) including Browning Citori, Caesar Guerini, Benelli SBE & Montefeltro etc.. After 10-20 rounds i give them a slight turn - less then 1/8” and just use my finger - stick it inside bore for flush mount (obviously empty gun)…its no big deal and during a 100 round of clays - tighten 4-5 times when walking between stations. I’ve heard if you use a choke “wrench” you can get them tight enough that they will Not loosen but I’m not doing that because of risking them getting seizedCurious to hear everyone’s experience - is it more common for a flush or extended choke to loosen on its own? What about factory vs after-market?
Would anti-seize work well for this?
@WAB - I’m sure that stuff works but is it “needed”? I know there is a Market-for-Everything and Hunters & Shooters are a very easy audience to convince they “Need” something New (especially if they are under 50) but I have a tough time thinking I need a Special grease for Stainless Steel? Based on my limited experiance (and being “grumpy in general) never had any choke tube seize (and I hunted in salt water marshes since the 1990s) I remove most by sticking my Finger in the bore (should I UNload?) or for a real sticky one - use rim of a shotgun shell. I rarely remove my tubes to clean and when I do they get a drop of gun oil - then good for months or years. I do clean my gun after any waterfowl hunt and at least “wipe down” after other hunts or shooting. I will agree that your method is probebly “better” and maybe grades out as an “A+” way to do it - I’ll settle for a B. I did find your post interesting and if I ever do have a choke tube seize - promise to post about to hear all the I-told-you-so’s !!Try this. Threading stainless into carbon is potentially a pretty big problem. The right lube is important. Gun oil is not the right lube.
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I’d suggest using grease not oil on your choke tubes. Particularly given that quite often you are screwing a stainless tube into a carbon steel barrel. It is just not the right application for oil. But then, I am a chemical engineer so I’m probably too analytical on this stuff.
There is grease designed specifically for this type of application. I use either RIG or K80.
Isn't grease simply oil plus soap? You would think then that grease should lubricate and clean.
@WAB - I’m sure that stuff works but is it “needed”? I know there is a Market-for-Everything and Hunters & Shooters are a very easy audience to convince they “Need” something New (especially if they are under 50) but I have a tough time thinking I need a Special grease for Stainless Steel? Based on my limited experiance (and being “grumpy in general) never had any choke tube seize (and I hunted in salt water marshes since the 1990s) I remove most by sticking my Finger in the bore (should I UNload?) or for a real sticky one - use rim of a shotgun shell. I rarely remove my tubes to clean and when I do they get a drop of gun oil - then good for months or years. I do clean my gun after any waterfowl hunt and at least “wipe down” after other hunts or shooting. I will agree that your method is probebly “better” and maybe grades out as an “A+” way to do it - I’ll settle for a B. I did find your post interesting and if I ever do have a choke tube seize - promise to post about to hear all the I-told-you-so’s !!
@BeeMaa: I just knew that You would have a “special” grease - as you have better equipment & maintenance then NASA….if/when my chokes “seize” — you’ll be my “go to” for repair.I’ve bought the dielectric grease and I’m now using it. Especially for my tactical shotgun that rarely sees the choke removed. Small price to pay for peace of mind.
Not sure about all that, but I’ll be happy to lend a hand when/if needed. Cheers.@BeeMaa: I just knew that You would have a “special” grease - as you have better equipment & maintenance then NASA….if/when my chokes “seize” — you’ll be my “go to” for repair.