Can't get my rifle to shoot straight

markferrigno

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After many hours and many rounds I am at a loss of what could be causing my rifle to basically "fling" rounds downrange. I have a Heym SR-21 in 6.5x55 I bought while in Germany (Synthetic stock) I didn't shoot it much in Germany but when I got back to the US I shot it more and I could never get it to shoot straight. I have tried many different brands/weights of ammo and while some lighter (131g) ammo reduces the effect they still all over the target. I changed scope/rings (it has picitiny rail bonded to the receiver from the factory) I took it to a gun smith who told it had copper fouling. Cleaned and removed the fouling. Heym then told me the stocks produced in that period were problematic so I replaced it with a GRS stock. Same results. See picture.

I am thinking there is an issue with the barrel or headspace? I don't know much about head space but I am really scratching my head as to what is causing this. I do know that proper head space is important. Anyone have an ideas/suggestions?

sr21 65x55.jpg
 
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After many hours and many rounds I am at a loss of what could be causing my rifle to basically "fling" rounds downrange. I have a Heym SR-21 in 6.5x55 I bought while in Germany (Synthetic stock) I didn't shoot it much in Germany but when I got back to the US I shot it more and I could never get it to shoot straight. I have tried many different brands/weights of ammo and while some lighter (131g) ammo reduces the effect they still all over the target. I changed scope/rings (it has picitiny rail bonded to the receiver from the factory) I took it to a gun smith who told it had copper fouling. Cleaned and removed the fouling. Heym then told me the stocks produced in that period were problematic so I replaced it with a GRS stock. Same results. See picture.

I am thinking there is an issue with the barrel or headspace? I don't know much about head space but I am really scratching my head as to what is causing this. I do know that proper head space is important. Anyone have an ideas/suggestions?
I hate to hear that about that that nice looking rifle. It is very frustrating. I am afraid I am not going to be able to provide answers, but I am having a similar experience with a Nosler 48 that I am struggling with, so I will be watching this thread closely. I figured it was a bedd oi ng issue with mine, but the new stock ought to have solved any issues there.
 
I hate to hear that about that that nice looking rifle. It is very frustrating. I am afraid I am not going to be able to provide answers, but I am having a similar experience with a Nosler 48 that I am struggling with, so I will be watching this thread closely. I figured it was a bedd oi ng issue with mine, but the new stock ought to have solved any issues there.

Maybe I just got a Lemon and it won't shoot straight.... Shame because my other SR-21 and SR-30 shoot dead on.......
 
Have you checked the crown. You could also try other forms of bedding. 1. Pillar bedding. 2. Pressure point about 1.5" back from the forend.
 
Have you checked the crown. You could also try other forms of bedding. 1. Pillar bedding. 2. Pressure point about 1.5" back from the forend.
Thanks. Gunsmith verified the Crown. I can try pillar bedding.
 
I assume you're hand-loading. My 6.5x55 likes a bit more jump than you might imagine. How far off the lands are you? Have you tried seating your bullets deeper?

SAAMI for this caliber is 3.150. I seat mine (Hornady ELD-X 143 gr) at 3.10. If you look at the Nosler data, their loads are seated all the way down to 3.025.

@Shootist43 should be along shortly. He's the one that keyed me into seating them a good bit deeper than SAAMI spec. He should be able to provide further insight.
 
I assume you're hand-loading. My 6.5x55 likes a bit more jump than you might imagine. How far off the lands are you? Have you tried seating your bullets deeper?

SAAMI for this caliber is 3.150. I seat mine (Hornady ELD-X 143 gr) at 3.10. If you look at the Nosler data, their loads are seated all the way down to 3.025.

@Shootist43 should be along shortly. He's the one that keyed me into seating them a good bit deeper than SAAMI spec. He should be able to provide further insight.
No handloads only factory ammo
 
Did you glass bed the GRS stock? Their website suggests glass bedding.

Sounds like you’ve tried most everything else..
 
Rats. If ever there were a cartridge begging for hand-loading, this is one of them. If you've already got a reloading setup, it would be worth it to buy a set of dies for this one. My little Tikka will put 5 bullets in a hole you could cover with a dime.
 
I had s rifle like this it was a one shot wonder it was dead on when cold but started walking around after that it turned out to be issues with extra epoxy in the stock. But you already replaced that are you sure the scope is ok?

- well you changed it so it shouldn't be that I dont know what to say then
 
I would do as sgt zim suggested, try handloads. If that doesn't do it, my money is on a bad barrel, especially with your comment about copper. A rifle's name brand is no guarantee of quality or accuracy. The target answers that question. Options are send it back to the factory or sell it. Life is too short to waste time on a bum firearm.
 
I guess I have a different opinion about just selling it on to another person who may also invest hard earned savings to buy a rifle that you know is faulty unless you inform him or her of the problem and sell it with this proviso. Did your GS do a borescope investigation of the barrel as if that is faulty then the maker should do something about replacing it.
 
I guess I have a different opinion about just selling it on to another person who may also invest hard earned savings to buy a rifle that you know is faulty unless you inform him or her of the problem and sell it with this proviso. Did your GS do a borescope investigation of the barrel as if that is faulty then the maker should do something about replacing it.
Yes aside from some fouling the bore is fine
 
I would do as sgt zim suggested, try handloads. If that doesn't do it, my money is on a bad barrel, especially with your comment about copper. A rifle's name brand is no guarantee of quality or accuracy. The target answers that question. Options are send it back to the factory or sell it. Life is too short to waste time on a bum firearm.
I don't have any reload gear for do I know how to reload. It is on my list though....
 
I guess I have a different opinion about just selling it on to another person who may also invest hard earned savings to buy a rifle that you know is faulty unless you inform him or her of the problem and sell it with this proviso. Did your GS do a borescope investigation of the barrel as if that is faulty then the maker should do something about replacing it.

The firearm may or may not be faulty. It could be the shooter, scope, rings, bases, a chamber carbon ring, ammo, how well it was cleaned and a myriad of other issues that with attention could render it an accurate firearm. Your "opinion" adds assumptions. In the end it's always Caveat Emptor.
 
I don't have any reload gear for do I know how to reload. It is on my list though....

Do you know the barrel twist? A 6.5 should be 8 to 8.5. Can you get a smith to check it? It should shoot 130s accurately but I would try lighter bullets. If they shoot better, twist could be the issue.
 
Do you know the barrel twist? A 6.5 should be 8 to 8.5. Can you get a smith to check it? It should shoot 130s accurately but I would try lighter bullets. If they shoot better, twist could be the issue.
Not sure what the twist is but you are right the 131 great shoot less worse than the 156 great but still not accurate...
 

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