Understanding the criteria that should drive the choice of a pair of binoculars...
Just as for about any other piece of hunting equipment (rifle, caliber, scope, etc.), there are technical criteria that SHOULD drive the choice of a pair of binoculars, and all binoculars are not best for all hunting, just as all calibers are not ideal across all species from PG to DG and from dense Jesse to open mountain ranges.
Criteria #1 - Glass & Coatings Quality
I can summarize this one easily:
buy the best you can afford, even if it takes you 3 years to pay for your binoculars.
How do you know the best glass and coatings quality? Simple, you get what you pay for, and
there are three market leaders that dominate all the rest: Zeiss, Leica, Swarovski.
Historically, the quality of the sand used to produce the glass made the difference, and Baltic Sea sands are the best in the world. Of course, nowadays, Chinese and Japanese companies can and do purchase Baltic Sea sand Schott glass, but the coating technologies perfected by Zeiss, Leica and Swarovski are the best in the world and remain technical secrets guarded with as much if not more care than nuclear weapons secrets. Of course glass is important, and it makes the difference between cheap "Coke bottle bottom binoculars" and quality binoculars, but coatings are what make the difference between 80% and 95% light transmission.
Yes, modern Vortex, Leupold, Bushnell, Burris, Nikon, etc. etc. have good glass; and yes, Meopta, Steiner, etc. source their lenses from the big three, but grab a pair of anything at dusk and compare it to Zeiss Victory, Leica or Swarovski, and you will shake your head in disbelief.
Also, beware of modern marketing and brand exploitation. For example, all Zeiss binoculars are not equal. There is a difference (and a $1,500 premium) between Zeiss Victory binocs and Zeiss Conquest binocs. Do you need the $2,500 Victory, or can you do with the $1,000 Conquest? To each their own, the $1,500 additional will buy you better coatings, metallic internal parts, assembly in Germany, stricter quality control, etc. But keep in mind that a pair of 2020's Conquest is
optically better than a pair of 1980's Dialyt B/GA T* which was life-changing then when you could finally afford one. I underline optically, because mechanically, the 1980's Dialyt runs circles around the 2020's Conquest...
When I learned hunting in the 1970's in the French Alps, old hands used to say: spend your money first on the best binoculars, then on a good scope, then whatever money is left will buy you a rifle. I agree with the prioritization, if only because you cannot shoot what you do not see or cannot identify (e.g. male vs horned female, age class, trophy quality, etc.)
As to hunting without binocs, it baffles me. I would just as soon stay home... It breaks my heart when I see folks in Africa without binocs, milling around while their PH
hunts with his binocs, and getting their role reduced to just shooting mechanically at something they did not find, did not identify, cannot judge, etc. etc. ... in so many words: did not hunt.
Criteria #2 - Magnification
The more magnification the better, right? Well, within limits. There is no doubt that 4x binoculars would be less useful than 8x, but why not 12x, or 16x?
The upper limit of magnification for hand-held binoculars is generally considered to be 10x. Most of us are not capable of holding STILL enough, long enough, off hand, a pair of binoculars with larger magnification for them to be useful in the field.
This is why 10x became, and remains, the standard for general-hunting binoculars. Unless one is hunting at close range, 10x is likely the best choice.
This does not mean other magnifications do not have a place in the hunting fields. If tracking Lion or Elephant, 8x is great. If guiding, or accompanying, and resting the binocs on top of the sticks when glassing, 12x and even 15x are fantastic to find animals others do not see, or more often, and this is the true value of such magnifications, judging trophy quality.
Criteria #3 - Objective Diameter
This one is a direct mathematical computation, and Zeiss had it right (as usual...) when they introduced the 10x40.
Since the human pupil is generally around 4 mm in diameter in full sunlight the goal is to have a 4 mm light beam reach the eye. The formula for the light beam diameter is objective diameter divided by magnification.
A pair of 10x40 binoculars produce a 4 mm light bean: 40 mm objective / 10x magnification = 4 mm light beam.
A pair of 8x30 binocs only produces a 3.75 mm light beam. This is just fine with younger eyes still benefiting from flexible pupils, but passed 50 years old you start to see the difference at dawn and dusk when the pupil dilate to about 7 mm and the eye could benefit from a 7 mm light beam. This explains while Zeiss has had two best sellers in binoculars: 10x40 for general hunting, and 8x56 for dawn & dusk hunting from miradors (tree stands). Why 8x56? Because 56/8=7 hence a pair of 8x56 produces the desired 7 mm light beam at dawn and dusk.
A pair of pocket 10x25 binocs only produces a 2.5 mm light beam. There are wonderfully light for hiking and literally disappear in a shirt chest pocket, but they are all but useless at dawn and dusk.
Note: I suspect that the only rationale for modern 10x42 or 8x32 binocs is marketing, to match the name of the quasi-universal variable 1.5-6x42 scopes in Europe. Why 1.5-6x42? Because 42/6=7. Not a coincidence...
Criteria #4 - Mechanical Quality
The best glass and coatings are completely useless if the two barrels of the binocs do not point in the same direction, the focus wheel does not adjust both barrels equally, diopter changes with magnification, dust speckles internal lenses, vapor fogs the internal surfaces, etc. etc. or lenses become loose after a knock. And there are few worse headaches than those caused from glassing for a few hours in optically divergent binoculars.
And no, lifetime, unconditional warranty is not the answer! What does it matter that Brand xxx will exchange for free and without question your broken, or mis-collimated, or astigmatic pair of binocs if they were useless 9 days out of your 10-day safari? What you lost in hunting experience is irreplaceable...
I am old fashion, I prefer lenses held and moved by metallic parts, but I easily admit that modern composite materials also work. As long as we are talking kevlar and modern polyamideimide, polycarbonate and high-density polyethylene materials, as opposed to cheap PVC.
Here too, the first advice stands:
buy the best you can afford, even if it takes you 3 years to pay for your binoculars.
THE REFERENCE: Zeiss 10x40 B/GA circa 1980's. Still the best compromise in my experience between magnification, objective diameter, angular field of view, mechanical construction, volume and weight. There is better glass coating nowadays, boosting light transmission from 80%+ to 90%+, but as an overall package for general day hunting, it remains hard to beat. In fact, it is so good that 40-year old used pairs still change hands for $700 to $800...
If you can rest your binocs while glassing, and if judging trophy quality at distance is paramount, a best-quality pair of 15x binoculars, like these Swarovski 15x56 SLC are amazing. I use them when accompanying other hunters (wife, sons, friends I take to Africa...) and I rest them on top of the folded sticks.
What has not been said about the amazing Leica Geovid 10x42 HD B 3000? I bought mine when I made the move to BDC (bullet drop compensator) scopes and the flawless integration of best-quality glass, laser range finding, and ballistic computer is incredible. These have become my defaults binoculars, replacing the Zeiss 10x40 B/GA T*. However, they are not without drawbacks: they are BIG (almost as big as the Swarovski 15x56 SLC), and heavy (almost 1.5 heavier than the Zeiss 10x40 BGA).
By contrast to the Geovid 10x42 HD B 3000, the Trinovid 8x32 HD are small and light. I consider them ideal for Lion or Elephant tracking.
The pocket Zeiss 10x25 are just that: best-quality binoculars that fit in a shirt pocket. They are great for casual glancing during a relaxed hike, but near useless at dawn and dusk, and lag far, far behind full size glass in viewing comfort and are ill adapted to the intense glassing hours on end. Mine now reside in my ... fly fishing backpack.
As to Steiner 20x80, they are more accurately a binocular spotting scope than a pair of binoculars and are useless without tripod or total support. However, when the difference between a Class II and a Class III Chamois (difference sometimes as small as 1/2") and a 1,000 vertical feet climb are at stakes, they come in their own.
In Summary...
A pair of top quality 10x40 (but not necessarily the absolute very best - there is such thing as diminishing return) is likely the best choice for general hunting purpose. Right now,
jpr9954, I would advise in descending order:
If you cannot afford to put the $700 into it, my second choice would be:
Parting words...
Do not go cheap on binoculars, otherwise you will just keep buying