Day 2 March 20.
The heat. Did I mention the heat? I haven't slept well since I arrived in Benin, and I'm not sure if or when I will. The team here is doing what it can - today, another fan was delivered to my room, and the window coverings were removed to try to let some air in. But it just is so hot that moving air feels like I'm in a convection oven rather than a plain oven (and I believe a convection oven cooks faster!)! The only parts of me which the fans cool are those which are sweating. Since all of me is sweating, this might not be a big problem . . .
Physically, though, this is taking a toll, and we’re only on day 2. I know I should eat more, but I have very little appetite – the thought of food actually makes me nauseous. I’m also a bit dehydrated, although I drink more than anyone. But it’s clearly not enough, if the waterworks are anything to go by!
Today, we have decided to have a look for the hippo. Christophe has identified a good male, with two notched ears, from a group of about 27 which have been living in a pool about 45 minutes drive from camp. When we arrive at the pool, we can only identify 5 - it appears that the rest have decamped for elsewhere. The water is as fetid as I've seen, but apparently, they aren't bothered. After a few minutes, I'm relieved to hear that the male with the two notched ears is still among them. He's now the only male with the group.
We start by trying out the drone to see what the effect will be. While the drone isn't particularly noisy, it does make a high-pitched whine as it flies, as I'm told drones are wont to do. Perhaps not surprisingly, the effect is to have all of the hippos submerge instantly! They will have to come up for air, I tell myself. And so they do, but they clearly aren't comfortable with the noise over their heads.
That done, I position myself to take the shot. It’s a bit of an awkward angle (here come the excuses . . .) but I think I should be able to get a good shot off. I wait, and at some point, the male pops his head up and gives me a good shot. I let my breath out, and start to squeeze. I think at that point he began to submerge – at least, that’s my story. Having said that, it doesn’t account for the fact that my shot hit water before it hit the hippo! I did hit him though, and we weren't positive, but given the lack of movement, it might have been a good shot. We sit and wait, and wait, and after about 5 minutes, we start to think that this might be over.
Suddenly, there is lots of movement, and a huge wake, as if something is moving very fast underwater. Someone says that he’s being pushed at speed, so we run along the bank to try to keep up. Then, as fast as it began, the movement stops. And the big male’s head comes up for air. Sh*t. He’s bleeding from the head, but clearly not dead! I position myself for another shot, but take it too quickly, and while I hit him, he’s now motoring back from whence he came at an equally high rate of speed. So off we go, running back up the bank, the way we came. I think the trackers are thinking the heat has gotten to these crazy people . . .
He stops, surrounded by the other hippo, but submerged. Again, we’re waiting to see what happens, and I have the Rigby on the sticks. Christophe is on the other side of a tree from me, and suddenly says “there he is take him.” Well, I can’t see him from my angle, so I bend around the tree, and there he is. This time I take an extra second, if only because the angle is really strange for a shot, and I can’t get straight on him. I squeeze the trigger and give him one that finishes him off. Dead. Finally.
The pictures below show the sequence of what happens next.
First things first. We collect some elephant dung and light it. The smoke will go a long way to protect us from the tsetse flies.
We've sent back to camp for a larger crew and some equipment. First, they build a raft of sorts.
The raft is carried to the water. Christophe is on the left, and Jean-Luc is on the right.
Next, dried palm fronds are cut. You will see why in a minute!
The palm frond are lit on fire, and the raft is pushed towards the dead hippo. They wave the palm fronds, which will apparently ward off hippos. Which are underwater. Notice to the right of the dead hippo - another hippo is keeping a close eye on events, but does not seem fazed by the palm fronds.
Getting closer to the dead hippo, and the live one is still keeping watch. I think the bravest of the staff are in the water. I didn't say the brightest, just the bravest.
Bringing the trophy home. Someone has swum underwater and attached a rope to the dead hippo. Hippo on the right is now spouting water.
Almost home!
We've now attached a winch to the dead hippo, and are pulling him onshore. Note the fellow standing next to the winch cable, in violation of OHS guidelines. His job is to throw water on the dry ground to ease the passage of the hippo. It will work, so long as he keeps his legs. Everything is thought of!
Nice teeth!
Christophe and I.
The whole team. All survived the recovery with no injuries!