Ontario Hunter
AH legend
As I discovered today the bolt shroud only has to be just barely started in the threads and the bolt will close and operate. If the shroud is screwed on more than that, the bolt will still operate, albeit defectively, but the shroud will not separate from the bolt.No idea what rifle was used, but on a mauser type rifle you could reassemble a bolt one rotation less than required. That being said, never take apart a bolt in the bush. At minimum, you need tremendous force to cock it against a hard object while forcing the safety back on, prior to reinsertion in a rifle. A slip or gouge of the cocking piece in this process can render a gun non-functional or a damage the trigger/sear engagement.
Please do not do gun smithing in the field, always have a backup rifle. It's not the place for it and you do not have the tools to do the work properly at camp.
In my workshop when I do the above procedure, I have on work gloves, a heavy vise, blocks of hardwood and leather, and a kid assistant to throw the safety when I say "go". The more proper way to do it is to have a bolt vise for each action type which is a substantial investment but one I would make if I was my profession.
Mauser made a tool, I believe, for servicing the bolt, even in the field. Isn't that why there's a notch at the end of cocking piece? Resetting the safety is a bit tricky without the tool but I can manage it by myself using either the open claw of vice or just the edge of the table. Done it countless times. Half a dozen times today during above experiments. Examining the sear with a magnifying glass, I don't see that it's sustained any damage ... beyond the grinding necessary to change to Timney trigger. That sear metal is VERY hard!
Mr Cox was hunting buffalo in a very dry dusty environment. Maybe I'm wrong, but cleaning the rifle thoroughly every day, especially the bolt, would seem to be a prerequisite. Seems doubtful there would have been a gunsmith in camp to do it for everyone hunting with a classic CRF DGR.
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