Am I Crazy?!? Or Did I Catch the Mid-Bore Bug?

[fourfive8]

Red loktite is similar to epoxy so judiciously add heat to chemically break it down. Applying heat with a small tip on a soldering gun or iron directly to/on screw for enough time will usually do it. Careful application of heat with a fine tip propane torch will also work.

 

[MS 9x56]

It is amazing how many people do not realize or bother to find out which Loc-tite is best for their application. Red is a no-no for many applications especially fine threaded ones.

 

[hawkeyesatx]

You will enjoy your sauer. The recoil is fairly mild, and is my favorite mid bore in a bolt gun. With a scope and loaded it should be fine. If it bothers you, I will let you shoot a couple shots in my 500 jeffery and your 9.3 or 375 will feel link a 243 after that.

That’s what I’m thinking as well!

Yes, when I get my scope on it, I believe it, and a sling will help, as always.

I fully believe you what you say about your 500 Jeffery. If I want my fillings loosened in the future I will contact you about shooting the 500 Jeffery! LOL


Hawk

 

[hawkeyesatx]

Red loktite is similar to epoxy so judiciously add heat to chemically break it down. Applying heat with a small tip on a soldering gun or iron directly to/on screw for enough time will usually do it. Careful application of heat with a fine tip propane torch will also work.

Thank you for those tips!

I want to wring the guys neck who did it!

Hawk

 

[hawkeyesatx]

It is amazing how many people do not realize or bother to find out which Loc-tite is best for their application. Red is a no-no for many applications especially fine threaded ones.

Yeah, I wish people would realize that myself!

Puts a new meaning to blood, sweat, and tears!
Trying to get them off is a PITA!!


Hawk

 

[MS 9x56]

As said above only heat will help.

 

[hawkeyesatx]

As said above only heat will help.

Thank you very much for letting me know. I will certainly try what you have suggested.


Hawk

 

[BeeMaa]

Just over 7# is gonna be fine for shooting a 9.3x62 without a scope. My 375H&H comes in a 7.75# and is no problem at all (video link below). Ready to hunt with ammo, sling and scope it's just over 10# and a pussycat.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Eu5zZxr1F9ij1UvG7

Edit - I'm 70" and 160# in that video.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Yeah, I wish people would realize that myself!

Puts a new meaning to blood, sweat, and tears!
Trying to get them off is a PITA!!


Hawk

@hawkeyesatx
I've never used locktite of any sort on my rifles.
I use nail polish. Holds screws fast but cracks easy to undo.
Bob

 

[BeeMaa]

@hawkeyesatx
I've never used locktite of any sort on my rifles.
I use nail polish. Holds screws fast but cracks easy to undo.
Bob

And you have it laying around after painting your toes.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

And you have it laying around after painting your toes.

@BeeMaa
No mate it's my wife's but if she runs out I just give @CBH a call and he sends some over after the Broken Heel festival. Last lot he sent was nipple pink and tart red.
Bob

 

[ldmay375]

I find it hard to resist “a deal” on any decent 8mm through 416. I have smaller calibers. But, by far the 8mm through 416 are my favorites.

Hey everyone!

I think I have a bad case of the Mid-bore-idous bug.
I bought, yet again, a Savage 110E in .270 Win, and am now thinking of sending the barreled action off to JES to have them rebore/rechamber it to 9.3x62 (the African 35 Whelen).

Is this a good idea?
Or should I buy another ER Shaw barrel kit, and get the 338-06, and switch it to that caliber?

Ugh! I hate this!
But whatever I decide, I think I’ll really like it.


Hawk

 

[MS 9x56]

@hawkeyesatx
I've never used locktite of any sort on my rifles.
I use nail polish. Holds screws fast but cracks easy to undo.
Bob

I use blue locative , seems to work just fine and breaks loose when needed.

 

[fourfive8]

Clean screws and holes with acetone or denatured alcohol then use blue lok-tite for scope mounting.

 

[BeeMaa]

I use blue locative , seems to work just fine and breaks loose when needed.

Clean screws and holes with acetone or denatured alcohol then use blue lok-tite for scope mounting.

Purple Loctite 222 - Low strength (but prevents movement) thread locker for use on less than 1/4" size fasteners. A little dab on where the surface between the rings and scope help prevent slippage. And it cleans up easy.

 

[hawkeyesatx]

@hawkeyesatx
I've never used locktite of any sort on my rifles.
I use nail polish. Holds screws fast but cracks easy to undo.
Bob

That’s exactly what I use!!

Yeah, much better that way!

Hawk

 

[Forrest Halley]

Clean screws and holes with acetone or denatured alcohol then use blue lok-tite for scope mounting.

Blue LOCTITE is not good for torxT-10 and lower. You will strip the screw head and there really isn't enough real estate there for common easy outs. Ask me how I know. I still have the evidence.

Purple Loctite 222 - Low strength (but prevents movement) thread locker for use on less than 1/4" size fasteners. A little dab on where the surface between the rings and scope help prevent slippage. And it cleans up easy.

Yes! Purple or vibratite VC3 was what was recommended to me after a recent incident.


As far as other tips for getting the bases loose...
Have you tried putting it all back together and announcing in a loud confident voice how satisfied you are with the zero and that it's ready to go hunting? That should cause it all to fall right off onto the floor.

After a recent hiccup with blue LOCTITE, I feel your pain @hawkeyesatx

 

[fourfive8]

Red loctite is the stuff that is designed to be permanent- not unlike using two part epoxy. And even that can be broken with heat. Original JB Weld can be broken with heat and it is one of the toughest. Blue loctite or blue Permatex or a weaker variety, purple loctite, are all designed to be consistently breakable/removable. I have never had a screw bind up to the point of buggering the head using any of them. The only thing that could have happened was red loctite was used OR if blue loctite was used, the screw was overtightened and seized due to galling or swaging/warping- the blue thread locker may not be the root cause at all. Correct use of the blue varieties of thread locker actually provides some insurance against seizing due to galling. The best way to remove is judicious use of direct heat no matter the cause. Apply the heat to chemically break the binder (adhesive, glue or whatever) then cool down, even to the point of really cold. Then try removal. After all, the whole point of using any thread locker is to prevent screws from backing out while in use. Lacquer (nail polish), varnish, hide glue, mucilage, Elmers, wood glue, acrylic, Gorilla, paint or even bubble gum could be used I guess. I prefer to use something that is consistent and designed for the task.

If the hex or torx is shot (wallowed out) you can sometimes drill out slightly to deepen and clean up the hole. Then fabricate, by grinding, a cut nail to have four sharp corners on the tip with a diagonal dimension slightly larger than the hole diameter. That can then be lightly driven into the hole allowing for some purchase on the screw to back it out, after the heat treatment. In effect making your own "easy out". Or just take it to a gunsmith and pay him to use one of the suggestions already in this thread or in one of the previous threads on the forum. Use the search function and enter the word "loctite" or similar- it's been covered a few times.

 

[MS 9x56]

I am not doubting your veracity just relating my own experience. I have been using blue loctite for a lot of years and have removed almost as many scopes as I have installed and never had an instance of failure to break free or buggered screw heads. Maybe I just been lucky but it works for me.

 

[Forrest Halley]

I am not doubting your veracity just relating my own experience. I have been using blue loctite for a lot of years and have removed almost as many scopes as I have installed and never had an instance of failure to break free or buggered screw heads. Maybe I just been lucky but it works for me.

I was like you. Then I had problems. T15 is fine. T10 and the corresponding Allen and below are not. Tread carefully and good luck!