A5 16 ga project.

[amschind]

I came across a 1929 FN A5 16 ga. The wood looked like it was from 1929 and someone had cut the barrel down to 25" with the last 1" devoted to male threads for one of those ghastly choke-compensators that were so popular in the 1950s. The sale price had been adjusted accordingly, but the real selling points were the absolutely gorgeous bluing and the professional 2 3/4" conversion. I also found a "deal" on a case of 2 3/4" high brass bismuth. Macon sells beautiful but "some assembly required" wood, and I got them to send me a set of tigerstripe maple. I'm getting the muzzle thread cut off to leave a 24" cylinder bore, and the wood finished with the same finish as the old maple Kentucky rifles.

All of this is an excuse to show off pictures of a pretty gun before the small population of folks would be interested, but to make it practical, I will add a question: is 16 ga a foolish caliber to take to Africa? I ask because it would be gun #3, and my fear is that I may only get one chance to go. To that end, I would like to make sure that I get any wing shooting that I want done, but finding out that 16 ga is unobtanium in RSA would be pretty disappointing. I have Remington 11 (the pre-A5 A5) in 20 ga and a Cynergy in 12 ga, but the 16 has an allure that seems to match such a special trip.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Just take 16 ga factory lead with you. Lots of it available. That gun will handle factory lead, especially with no choke in the barrel. I don't believe you'd need to shoot nontoxic shot in RSA. Sixteen gauge is still very popular among Europeans so it would not surprise me if factory ammo is available in RSA.

 

[Firebird]

Double check with your ph and make sure they can get 16 gauge shells in their neck of the veldt!
In the US for non toxic give “heavy bismuth” made by hevi shot a try-“made for classic guns.” Otherwise enjoy the benefits of lead. My uncle killed a lot of quail with an old humpback 12 when I was a kid.
I do love the 16 gauge and own several but your project is a gem!

 

[steve white]

If it's anything like the "sweet 16" it will NOT tolerate heavy loads! The springs are calibrated for load and slamming back too hard with heavy loads will crack the fore end...don't ask how I found out.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

If it's anything like the "sweet 16" it will NOT tolerate heavy loads! The springs are calibrated for load and slamming back too hard with heavy loads will crack the fore end...don't ask how I found out.

This is a chronic issue with all A5s, not just 16 gauge. Make sure the friction brake and rings are set up properly for heavy loads. Improper setup will definitely shorten the life of wooden fore end. The friction brake softens the recoil of barrel AND regulates how rapidly it returns and barrel ring collides with wood at top of magazine tube. For a shotgun that old I would shop for a new barrel spring, friction brake, and ring.

John Browning left two design flaws in the Auto 5. The tang screw through the wrist seriously weakened the butt stock. Long recoil cycling pulled and pushed on the screw until the hole in the stock stretched. Then the stock is loose and wood cracks. The second design defect is the barrel ring colliding with wooden fore end every time the gun is cycled. Eventually the fore end is pounded to pieces. Remington fixed both issues in the 11-48 that superceded their A5 clone Model 11. A metal tube lines the end of fore end so the barrel ring essentially pounds on the magazine cap. Tang screw was eliminated with butt stock held on instead with a nut behind recoil pad attached to the end of action spring housing.