A 404 Jeffery I have inherited

[geoff rath]

99.9% of the hunters on here would feel privileged to own ,and hunt Afrika with this rifle ...

 

[Furharvester]

Thank you

 

[Furharvester]

No history of the gun. I do know my grandfather was friends with the Williams brothers here in Michigan who ran a very successful gun store that is still in business. The brothers have passed on but from the story’s I have heard they used to go to Africa hunting and bring back meat for the holiday dinners they had with their family and friends and I know my grandparents went to quite a few of the dinners back in the day. Maybe he bought the rifle hoping to go with them one day. I know he never did go to Africa but did take many hunting trips to the western part of the USA.

I was talking with my Dad the other day just to make sure I had my facts straight on the Williams Brothers and my Grandpa. I have to give my grandpa a lot of credit and way more will power than I have. My Dad said that they had offered to take my Grandpa over to Africa several times but he never ended up going because at the time it wasn’t financially feasible for him to go. Even knowing it wasn’t a financially good idea I would have a very hard time saying no I can’t go when being offered an Africa safari opportunity.

 

[Furharvester]

On the left side of the action behind the bolt there is a "lever" I'm sure that's probably not the right name for it but i don't know what else to call it. I have looked at several other Mauser M98 rifles and they have the part as well. Can anyone please tell me what it's for? The part is circled in the photo. Thanks for any help guys, this really is a great forum.

 

[Wheels]

That is the bolt release. You can remove the bolt from the action.

Congratulations on getting the rifle.

 

[Furharvester]

Thank you after a little more research and a little more thinking that was my guess. Also thank you on the congratulations.

 

[Furharvester]

Over the last weekend I was able to take this rifle out and put a few rounds down range. What a fun rifle to shoot.

 

[Scrumbag]

Lovely rifle and welcome to the 404 Club.

Fix that rust ASAP.

Scrummy

 

[AZDAVE]

First congratz on a fantastic rifle, thank you for sharing with us. Getting a fine rifle as an inheritance is always special, means that someone thought enough of you to entrust someting special to you care taking. I would recommend a new proper pad, cleaning and oiling the metal, clean and wax the stock then shoot it alot, and take it to Africa and hunt everything.

 

[geoff rath]

First congratz on a fantastic rifle, thank you for sharing with us. Getting a fine rifle as an inheritance is always special, means that someone thought enough of you to entrust someting special to you care taking. I would recommend a new proper pad, cleaning and oiling the metal, clean and wax the stock then shoot it alot, and take it to Africa and hunt everything.

Then, when you just can't do it any more, pass it on to an appreciative heir of like mind to continue the tradition ...

 

[Furharvester]

First congratz on a fantastic rifle, thank you for sharing with us. Getting a fine rifle as an inheritance is always special, means that someone thought enough of you to entrust someting special to you care taking. I would recommend a new proper pad, cleaning and oiling the metal, clean and wax the stock then shoot it alot, and take it to Africa and hunt everything.

I know about oiling the metal but what would be the best wax to use on the wood?

 

[mdwest]

I know about oiling the metal but what would be the best wax to use on the wood?

You’ll get several opinions on wax… I personally use a blend of mineral oil and pure beeswax… I know several on AH use renaissance wax… either are a very good solution…

 

[Woodcarver]

I know about oiling the metal but what would be the best wax to use on the wood?

Renaissance Wax, on both the wood and metal (after the bit of rust has been cleaned off). One of these pads with Kroil does wonders on rust without harming the bluing.

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Haven't tried @mdwest 's oil and wax blend, but it should give a good protective layer as well. Be sure to wipe the exterior metal work completely clean of oil before waxing. The wax provides better protection than a film of oil.

 

[expresshunt]

Yes .. that pad definitely has a story... lol..

I once tried to move my father in laws 338 Tikka but it was stuck to the floor... sat a few months, and the "Sorbacoil" pad had 98% melted into the carpet... left a 9" round sticky puddle.
Left behind on the rifle butt was a sticky block... Apparently these early soft ones failed after a few years...

 

[Furharvester]

You’ll get several opinions on wax… I personally use a blend of mineral oil and pure beeswax… I know several on AH use renaissance wax… either are a very good solution…

Is there any chance I could get your recipe? Also do you think Deer Tallow would be acceptable in place of the bees wax?

 

[rookhawk]

That gun is awesome and it’s filth. I’d love to have my hands on it for 24 hours. It would conserve very well removing the yuck. It looks purely German but British proofed and retailed to me.

 

[Hunter-Habib]

Your rifle was made in Germany post 1912 and pre 1939. At some point, it was retailed into a British colony through the likes of either Manton & Co. or R.B Rodda & Co. or Lyon & Lyon or Army & Navy.

For this reason, it has both German proof marks and English. My money is on R.B Rodda & Co., because Manton & Co. sourced .404 Jeffrey rifles from Vickers.

 

[rookhawk]

Your rifle was made in Germany post 1912 and pre 1939. At some point, it was retailed into a British colony through the likes of either Manton & Co. or R.B Rodda & Co. or Lyon & Lyon or Army & Navy.

For this reason, it has both German proof marks and English. My money is on R.B Rodda & Co., because Manton & Co. sourced .404 Jeffrey rifles from Vickers.
View attachment 516853

Definitely on the early side in that 1912 side of the estimate rather than just up to WW2. The semi-octagon barrel, the full length rib, and the escutcheon to detach the stock at the foregrip all point to earlier styling in my opinion.

Put another way, the later guns all start to look a lot more like a British Rigby and a lot less like a German Mauser.

 

[rookhawk]

Is there any chance I could get your recipe? Also do you think Deer Tallow would be acceptable in place of the bees wax?

If you’re ever in Western WI or the Twin Cities, bring that gun by and for a case of beer I’ll show you how to clean it up without removing any originality. Before you contemplate any preservatives or waxes, you have to get that surface grime off lest you trap it forever under top layers of Renwax, bowling lane wax, or anything else.

Bronze wool and Kroil on the metal. Perhaps a sonic cleaning of some of the parts, then a bake in an oven for a few minutes, then kroil. Dawn dish soap on an extra soft tooth brush in all the checkering. JB paste and kroil over a bronze brush with cloth patch wrapped around it, 50 strokes in the barrel, then judicious bore cleaning with a variety of products to remove lead and copper respectively to ensure you get it all out. BLO rubbed all over the wood and then removed correctly just as a cleaning agent.

Then you can consider waxes to seal in the original beauty with all the filth now off the surfaces.

The pad is roasted, but a 1” London Silvers pad should be fitted at the end of the journey, then a greasy hand should be rubbed all over the new pad until it has the same patina as the originality of the cleaned gun. Then Vaseline over the top of the pad to lock in the newly placed patina so it stays consistent with the wear and distress of the immaculately cleaned gun at finish.

Just my opinion. Do no harm. Restore nothing. Clean everything. Conserve what is beautiful and original whenever possible.

 

[Jack Stevens]

Definitely on the early side in that 1912 side of the estimate rather than just up to WW2. The semi-octagon barrel, the full length rib, and the escutcheon to detach the stock at the foregrip all point to earlier styling in my opinion.

Put another way, the later guns all start to look a lot more like a British Rigby and a lot less like a German Mauser.

Your rifle was made in Germany post 1912 and pre 1939. At some point, it was retailed into a British colony through the likes of either Manton & Co. or R.B Rodda & Co. or Lyon & Lyon or Army & Navy.

Could have missed the historical memo, ... but I wasn't aware that early .404 "working rifles" had stocks with cheekpieces.

My understanding was that cheekpieces weren't incorporated on stocks as a standard matter until scopes started coming more into vogue of Africa DGRs.