416WSM on Siamese Mauser & 416/348Ackley Improved on Martini

the 404 had a zebrawood fore end tip
That zebrawood is certainly a contrast. Below is a photo of my 45/70 on a Martini action. I made the stock in the early 90s. The fiddle back red gum is a subtle contrast and matched the Pachmayr colour to book end the stock. Granted the fiddle back grain is not very strong.
20230407_164438[1].jpg
 
Recoil pad is on, and it has been sanded back to the stock with the belt sander.
The stock has been sanded ready for sealing. I have not put a fore end tip, I have just rounded it off like a Rigby. Still might put a tip on - what do you think?
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I see you decided to scallop the bolt handle. Looks good. What height rings? Curious about the bottom metal. Does the floorplate actually open or is it fixed? Ah, I forgot this was rimmed cartridge action.
 
The floor plate does not hinge, yet. It is in the original state, that completely falls out when you push the button. Scope rings are medium height, and the bolt only just clears the scope. Stock with sealer, so that I don't stain it when I am handling it, needs more sanding.
20240817_191934[1].jpg
 
The floor plate does not hinge, yet. It is in the original state, that completely falls out when you push the button. Scope rings are medium height, and the bolt only just clears the scope. Stock with sealer, so that I don't stain it when I am handling it, needs more sanding.
View attachment 627007
Nice figure in that wood. So you've got a semi-pic rail on it. Must be three screw pattern. What brand? Fairly low profile for one of those. I had a similar one on my Mauser but not quite as low. It was okay with 1" Weaver K3 but when I switched to a new 30mm scope with better eye relief, I was having to get off the gun to hunt for field of view when mounted. Besides slower acquisition, the higher setup doubtless also increased felt recoil. I had earlier bought a discontinued Weaver one-piece base ($10!) that is very low but only two slots and turns out made of aluminum. I opted instead for the higher steel base with multiple slots. Then decided to give the Weaver base a go when I switched to the thicker scope. Acquisition is perfect with low Warne QD rings. I think it will be sturdy enough to handle the recoil. If I had a machine shop, I'd add another slot to move the rear ring back a bit. The slots are shallow (they need to be on a thin low profile rail) and rounded to accept round bracing screws on Weaver permanent rings. I had to bevel the edges of the Warne ring square cross braces to make them fit in the rounded slots. Now when that scope is dropped on the rail, it only goes in ONE spot and it fits TIGHT. One of the problems with QD rings and pic rails is they can move on the rail before being tightened down. Not a problem if the base is EXACTLY parallel to the bore, but the odds of that are slim, especially on military rifles. If not parallel, then one end of the rail will be out of alignment with the bore. Then when the scope is placed on the rail it must be situated at EXACTLY the same spot in the slots every time or zero will change. The previous steel base had a fair amount of slop in the slots and I am fairly certain the base was not perfectly aligned with the bore. I tried positioning the rings on the old Weaver scope so the forward one was tight against forward side of its slot in base and rear ring tight against rear side of its slot but getting the scope to clamp down properly was sometimes tricky. It was not "quick". With this base the 30mm scope drops automatically onto ONE spot in the base every time and the braces in rings are literally wedged into the slots when tightened down. Return to zero is guaranteed. There is no alternative.
 
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Same rail I had on mine last year. I note that you also had to remove metal from yours to allow for the stripper clip hump. Apparently, CCOP is no longer making these rails for military 98 Mauser actions. Here's what my rail looked like after trimming metal for stripper clip port.
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I can confirm that a standard K98 Mauser safety functions perfectly in the Siamese Mauser. Now this is not going to be my final solution but I wanted to experiment with the Mauser Sniper safety concept.
I tig welded a tab onto the K98 safety and then removed the excess on the origninal flag. As you see it, it has not had any clean up to make it look a bit more presentable.
It is ugly.
While it is functional, I would not like to be in the thick scrub and need to release it in a hurry, as it is hidden under the scope.
Fortunately Ontario Hunter has sold me a Chapman 2 position kit, it is currently in the air.
20240818_144223[1].jpg
 
I can confirm that a standard K98 Mauser safety functions perfectly in the Siamese Mauser. Now this is not going to be my final solution but I wanted to experiment with the Mauser Sniper safety concept.
I tig welded a tab onto the K98 safety and then removed the excess on the origninal flag. As you see it, it has not had any clean up to make it look a bit more presentable.
It is ugly.
While it is functional, I would not like to be in the thick scrub and need to release it in a hurry, as it is hidden under the scope.
Fortunately Ontario Hunter has sold me a Chapman 2 position kit, it is currently in the air.
View attachment 627203
I see those Mauser sniper safeties come up for sale on the net from time to time. I can't imagine they worked very well in combat. I'm guessing snipers never had the safeties engaged anyway. Anyone with enough skill to be a sniper didn't need one.

Military flag safeties on Mausers and Springfields, while foolproof, are in my opinion not ideal. They require two fingers to operate. A sniper, for example, finds his target in the scope and then has to release the rifle butt entirely to flip the safety off. Then grip the rifle again and acquire all over. At least the P14 and 1917 side safety made some attempt to remedy this.
 
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Changed the scope mounts to a quick release option.They are classed as a medium height and the bolt handle now has become an issue. Initially I did not want to cut into the action rail to clear a lower handle on the original stub, but to clear the scope there is no other option.
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Option #2 also arrived, a red dot. No worries about clearing the safety or bolt handle.
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What "amazes" me, the red dot says it was made in USA, then apparently shipped to China and finally to Australia. The total cost including shipping was $40. It will be interesting to see if it can survive many shots, it is made of alloy not plastic. The dot does illuminate, is clear crisp and the dot intensity changes as it should.It might be ok for Sambar but nothing more serious.
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