375 point of impact different bullet weights

[375Fox]

I have a safari coming up next year where I’ll hunt two very different areas. Normally I’d have no problem using my 375 H&H with 300 gr bullets out to 300 yards, but I would like something flatter shooting for smaller antelope. Ideal scenario I’d like to use 300 gr swift A frames zeroed for 100 yards and 250 gr Barnes TTSX for longer shots in second area. However, the difference between the two is the 250 gr TTSXs shoot about 6” higher than the 300 gr lead core bullets at 100 yards. I am considering trying 260 gr Nosler accubonds to see if differences between lead core bullets is possibly less? If I could find something where the 300 gr bullets are zeroed at 100 and lighter bullets shoot 3” high that would be ideal. I don’t hand load so I was hoping to get some opinions if anyone has any relevant experience using different bullet weights or other bullet suggestions before spending unnecessary money. I’d really like to avoid bringing a second rifle or my R8 if possible.

 

[Niklas]

Or go for a 2-scope option (with QD-mounts of course), one for the 300gr and another for the lighter bullets.

I use this for my 416… one scope for 450gr and another for the 300gr…

 

[375Fox]

Or go for a 2-scope option (with QD-mounts of course), one for the 300gr and another for the lighter bullets.

I use this for my 416… one scope for 450gr and another for the 300gr…

I’ve become pretty set in my ways. I just don’t have confidence in quick detach scopes or ballistic dials. It’s a fair suggestion but I’m hoping to find a bullet combination that works. If I can’t I’ll bring a second rifle in 300 Win Mag.

 

[Skshyk]

Will you be hunting buffalo or all plains game ?

 

[shootist~]

A good optic with reliable and repeatable turret. Dial it down 3 MOA for the 250 grain and and done. Zero Stop preferable, but not absolutely necessary. Obviously the issue is remembering to dial it back up if needed.

Lghter bullets tend to go higher and right for me. More so if I push the velocity.

 

[375er]

Have you tried 270 grainers as a do all bullet??

 

[Skshyk]

Have you tried 270 grainers as a do all bullet??

Agreed, pick one do it all. Like you I like to keep it as simple as possible. 250 or 270 TSX should be good for all.

 

[K-man]

Grat advice so far. Grab a couple boxes of 270 grain Barnes, and zero your gun for 200 yards. you will maybe be an inch high at 100, 4 inches low at 300 and practice your ballistics out to 400 yards. Unless you are hunting the Eastern Cape for antelope, I can't imagine needing even 300 yards in Africa. If you are not hunting Buffalo, I would go with a smaller caliber like .300 win mag etc. You probably have a reason for wanting the .375. Enjoy!

 

[Flipper Dude]

Normally I’d have no problem using my 375 H&H with 300 gr bullets out to 300 yards,

So………….What seems to be the problem?

Sounds simple enough for me. 300 TSX is all I’ve ever carried.

 

[375Fox]

Will you be hunting buffalo or all plains game ?

It’s a buffalo/PG hunt but with a one or two day add on for specific PG including Thompson gazelle.

 

[Skshyk]

It’s a buffalo/PG hunt but with a one or two day add on for specific PG including Thompson gazelle.

My last trip I took 300gr Barnes for buffalo and PG. I also took some Solids for 2nd shot on buffalo Nosler 270gr I believe I handloaded to shot 1"higher at 100 yards. 1 barnes and 1 solid was all it took for the buffalo. All other PG were taken with Barnes using my Blaser R8. No turrets, 2nd scope or barrel, and no BDC scope.

 

[sgt_zim]

I have a safari coming up next year where I’ll hunt two very different areas. Normally I’d have no problem using my 375 H&H with 300 gr bullets out to 300 yards, but I would like something flatter shooting for smaller antelope. Ideal scenario I’d like to use 300 gr swift A frames zeroed for 100 yards and 250 gr Barnes TTSX for longer shots in second area. However, the difference between the two is the 250 gr TTSXs shoot about 6” higher than the 300 gr lead core bullets at 100 yards. I am considering trying 260 gr Nosler accubonds to see if differences between lead core bullets is possibly less? If I could find something where the 300 gr bullets are zeroed at 100 and lighter bullets shoot 3” high that would be ideal. I don’t hand load so I was hoping to get some opinions if anyone has any relevant experience using different bullet weights or other bullet suggestions before spending unnecessary money. I’d really like to avoid bringing a second rifle or my R8 if possible.

There is no practical difference in ballistic arc between a 300 gr A Frame at 2500 fps and a 250 gr TTSX at 2700 fps. Even if you could get the TTSX up to 2800 fps, it just doesn't move the needle to an appreciable degree.

With a 200 yard zero
A Frame is 2.6" high at 100, 10.5" low at 300

250 gr TTSX is 2" high at 100 yards, 8.2" low at 300 yards.

I expect you'll get somewhat better expansion with the TTSX at 300 yards than the A Frame, but probably not enough that anything but an eland might notice the difference.

Pick 1 or the other, zero at 175 or 200 yards and be done with it.

 

[375Fox]

Grat advice so far. Grab a couple boxes of 270 grain Barnes, and zero your gun for 200 yards. you will maybe be an inch high at 100, 4 inches low at 300 and practice your ballistics out to 400 yards. Unless you are hunting the Eastern Cape for antelope, I can't imagine needing even 300 yards in Africa. If you are not hunting Buffalo, I would go with a smaller caliber like .300 win mag etc. You probably have a reason for wanting the .375. Enjoy!

I have not seen trajectories like that from a 375 H&H. That is more similar to my 300 Win Mag. I’ve shot a number of game between 250 and 350 yards in different parts of Africa including with my 375 but an eland or a kudu is a big target compared to a gazelle on a more dedicated add on hunt. Hoping to find a combination that could be reasonable for both areas without bringing a second rifle or resighting in.

Here’s my trajectories from range from different hunts I prepared for.

 

[375Fox]

There is no practical difference in ballistic arc between a 300 gr A Frame at 2500 fps and a 250 gr TTSX at 2700 fps. Even if you could get the TTSX up to 2800 fps, it just doesn't move the needle to an appreciable degree.

With a 200 yard zero
A Frame is 2.6" high at 100, 10.5" low at 300

250 gr TTSX is 2" high at 100 yards, 8.2" low at 300 yards.

I expect you'll get somewhat better expansion with the TTSX at 300 yards than the A Frame, but probably not enough that anything but an eland might notice the difference.

Pick 1 or the other, zero at 175 or 200 yards and be done with it.

See my last post. That hasn’t been my experience. I’m looking for a two bullet option for a specific hunt.

 

[sgt_zim]

See my last post. That hasn’t been my experience. I’m looking for a two bullet option for a specific hunt.

KISS is important here. IMO, it's not worth the effort to keep track of the arc on 2 different loads for the same rifle. The energy difference between them is a complete wash, so you're only really dealing with different arcs; and assuming you use the same zero for both, there just isn't a practical difference between a 300 gr at 2500 and a 250 gr at 2700.

Whether you pick the 300 SAF or 250 TTSX, I absolutely wouldn't zero either 1 of them at 100 yards. For me, 150 yards would be the ideal for reaching out to 300.

Sorta makes a big difference, depending on what you're hunting. If you're hunting duiker/steenbok and eland, I can understand your desire for 2 loads. If you're hunting impala/blesbok and kudu, it just isn't worth the effort to bring 2 loads for your 375, at least not to me.

 

[DLSJR]

Have you asked your PH how likely you are to shoot at a Tommy beyond 300 yards? I expect he’ll tell you that you’re more likely to shoot it inside 200 yards than beyond. My own view is to keep it simple and shoot one bullet/load and practice as far as you expect to shoot. My son and I shoot 300 grain bullets in our 375’s, but the 270’s are also an excellent option.

However, if I was going to Masailand, I’d take along a light rifle like a 270. That’d be an excellent cartridge for any and all Masailand plains game.

 

[375Fox]

Have you asked your PH how likely you are to shoot at a Tommy beyond 300 yards? I expect he’ll tell you that you’re more likely to shoot it inside 200 yards than beyond. My own view is to keep it simple and shoot one bullet/load and practice as far as you expect to shoot. My son and I shoot 300 grain bullets in our 375’s, but the 270’s are also an excellent option.

However, if I was going to Masailand, I’d take along a light rifle like a 270. That’d be an excellent cartridge for any and all Masailand plains game.

That’s really what I’m expecting but would prefer not to feel limited. To your question though I haven’t thoroughly discussed this with PH, but it does apply to other countries I’ve hunted as well for different hunts. PHs suggestion for this hunt was a 300 mag and heavy rifle combination or a 375 for a one gun safari. Buffalo is technically the primary goal of safari but a grants and Thompson gazelle are equally if not more important to me. Thompson gazelle will be in a different area.

 

[mark-hunter]

See my last post. That hasn’t been my experience.

I think there is differences between theoretical ballistic calculations, and practical result.
I am not saying sgt zim post is just theory, he could get it properly in his rifle. But what works for him, does not mean necessarily will work for you.

The point being, each rifle and barrel is unique and two different bullets (different weight, different velocity) will produce different barrel harmonics, resulting in different point of impact. Your goal can be achieved with testing various hand made reloads. But with factory ammunitions as intended, to find 300 meter same impact bullets with different weights, and maybe different manufacturers will be very hard. Consider jack pot.

I guess you will not change rifle, or barrel.
But this can have influence. Thick match barrel reduces barrel harmonics and whipping effect. I had very good results on target with changing various ammunition in thick match barrel 308 win. With thick barrel, chances to find two bullets with same impacts will improve.

The best chance is to use something like 270 grain, TTSX, as universal all around bullet.

I envy you, and wish you good luck on Tanzania hunt!

 

[sgt_zim]

I think there is differences between theoretical ballistic calculations, and practical result.
I am not saying sgt zim post is just theory, he could get it properly in his rifle. But what works for him, does not mean necessarily will work for you.

The point being, each rifle and barrel is unique and two different bullets (different weight, different velocity) will produce different barrel harmonics, resulting in different point of impact. Your goal can be achieved with testing various hand made reloads. But with factory ammunitions as intended, to find 300 meter same impact bullets with different weights, and maybe different manufacturers will be very hard. Consider jack pot.

I guess you will not change rifle, or barrel.
But this can have influence. Thick match barrel reduces barrel harmonics and whipping effect. I had very good results on target with changing various ammunition in thick match barrel 308 win. With thick barrel, chances to find two bullets with same impacts will improve.

The best chance is to use something like 270 grain, TTSX, as universal all around bullet.

I envy you, and wish you good luck on Tanzania hunt!

It isn't that harmonics, BC, and MV have no effect, it's that there's no practical effect on ballistic arc inside 300 yards. Harmonics affect group size, but once the bullet exits the crown, it's all aerodynamic efficiency and MV.

We are talking about 375H&H - I'm assuming a medium barrel profile of some sort, so heavy-ish.

With 2 loads, there are any number of opportunities to make a mistake and fill a magazine with the "wrong" one.

Another challenge presents itself - scope gets bumped off center during travels. As I mentioned in my hunting report this weekend, it ended up taking a dozen shots to re-zero my 9.3x62, and I'd only brought 30 rounds for it, leaving me with 18 to hunt for the week. Imagine that sort of issue and then having to re-zero 2 different loads, one of which was zeroed at 100 yards and the other at 200 yards. And now you're shooting metric distances at (probably) metric targets. That alone will introduce a little slop in the gears as well, likely negating the slight ballistic advantage he'd get from TTSX over A Frame anyway.

@375Fox - I would strongly encourage you to verify the loads at a range. Zero them both at 200 yards, I bet you'll find no more than 1" - 1.5" of ballistic arc difference out to around 250 yards, and no more than 2.5" - 3" at 300 yards.

I've done a similar test with my 6.5 Swede - 143 gr ELD-X (BC 0.625), MV 2500 vs 160 gr Weldcore (BC 0.51), MV 2380. I also did a SxS with my 308 (180 gr Grand Slam at 2550, BC 0.374) vs my 9.3x62 (286 gr Hornady SPRP at 2420, BC 0.41)

I also did the same test (though I didn't shoot out to 250 yards) with 286 gr A Frames (2475 fps, BC 0.385) and 258 gr Shock Hammers (2503 fps, BC 0.43) out to 100 yards, with a 150 yard zero.

My results were quite conclusive - zeroed for 200 yards, there is no meaningful difference in ballistic arc between the 2 loads for the Swede, nor was there a practical difference between the 9.3x62 and the 308 Win.

On a 200 yard zero, similar BCs (within roughly 0.1 of each other) launched at similar MVs (within 150 - 200 fps of each other) will produce very similar ballistic arcs out to around 300 yards.

I am a computer/math nerd, and I just had to know if Hornady's ballistic calculator was reliable. I have always found that the margin for error on its calculated ballistic arc to be less than 1 MOA, usually less than 0.5 MOA. That's a big deal at 1000 yards, but it's just a non-starter at hunting distances.

 

[375Fox]

It isn't that harmonics, BC, and MV have no effect, it's that there's no practical effect on ballistic arc inside 300 yards. Harmonics affect group size, but once the bullet exits the crown, it's all aerodynamic efficiency and MV.

We are talking about 375H&H - I'm assuming a medium barrel profile of some sort, so heavy-ish.

With 2 loads, there are any number of opportunities to make a mistake and fill a magazine with the "wrong" one.

Another challenge presents itself - scope gets bumped off center during travels. As I mentioned in my hunting report this weekend, it ended up taking a dozen shots to re-zero my 9.3x62, and I'd only brought 30 rounds for it, leaving me with 18 to hunt for the week. Imagine that sort of issue and then having to re-zero 2 different loads, one of which was zeroed at 100 yards and the other at 200 yards. And now you're shooting metric distances at (probably) metric targets. That alone will introduce a little slop in the gears as well, likely negating the slight ballistic advantage he'd get from TTSX over A Frame anyway.

@375Fox - I would strongly encourage you to verify the loads at a range. Zero them both at 200 yards, I bet you'll find no more than 1" - 1.5" of ballistic arc difference out to around 250 yards, and no more than 2.5" - 3" at 300 yards.

I've done a similar test with my 6.5 Swede - 143 gr ELD-X (BC 0.625), MV 2500 vs 160 gr Weldcore (BC 0.51), MV 2380. I also did a SxS with my 308 (180 gr Grand Slam at 2550, BC 0.374) vs my 9.3x62 (286 gr Hornady SPRP at 2420, BC 0.41)

I also did the same test (though I didn't shoot out to 250 yards) with 286 gr A Frames (2475 fps, BC 0.385) and 258 gr Shock Hammers (2503 fps, BC 0.43) out to 100 yards, with a 150 yard zero.

My results were quite conclusive - zeroed for 200 yards, there is no meaningful difference in ballistic arc between the 2 loads for the Swede, nor was there a practical difference between the 9.3x62 and the 308 Win.

On a 200 yard zero, similar BCs (within roughly 0.1 of each other) launched at similar MVs (within 150 - 200 fps of each other) will produce very similar ballistic arcs out to around 300 yards.

I am a computer/math nerd, and I just had to know if Hornady's ballistic calculator was reliable. I have always found that the margin for error on its calculated ballistic arc to be less than 1 MOA, usually less than 0.5 MOA. That's a big deal at 1000 yards, but it's just a non-starter at hunting distances.

I took screenshots of my actual range data above. I see a significant difference in 375 H&H and I’ve seen it repeated every time I shoot. I only use the range to verify bullet drop for all my rifles. It’s typically always faster dropping than published trajectory.