375 h&h long range accuracy?

Fellow Rifle Grumps,

Craig Boddington once commented that, the .375 H&H is capable of amazingly long shots, with the old fashioned 300 grain Sierra spitzer.
Sadly, I believe Sierra either doesn’t make this bullet any more (not sure) but if they do, it might only be available in their **boat tail version ?

My dos centavos:
Even though it’s only leaving the muzzle around 2550 fps, perhaps it’s both the heavy-for-caliber weight and streamlined shape of that specific bullet combined, which keeps it from straying off its course a long way down range, thereby making long shots possible.

**Also, I’m no fan of boat tail bullets, due to my personal experiences indicating that, all else being equal, flat based bullets have shown me slightly better accuracy than boat tail ones have.

However, old fashioned lead core / jacketed soft point hunting bullets from Sierra Bullet Company are to this day, some of the most consistently accurate hunting bullets available, no matter which of the two base configurations are used.
This, in spite of them being dreaded “cup & core” design = suddenly today, likely to just bounce off of even the tiniest mouse.

The OP mentions long shots with the .375 H&H, primarily for hunting baboons and such vermin at, “300 to 400 yards”.
This cartridge is my #1 favorite hunting cartridge (I have lived in Alaska 41 years, plus I’ve hunted Africa 6 times).
Also, the 300 grain round nose soft is my favorite load with it.
The vast majority of my hunting, is definitely not at any great distances.
Even up in the Khomas Highlands of Namibia and out on the treeless tundra of western Alaska, I have shot most of my critters at something under 300 yards / 300 meters and quite often, much closer than that.
Anyway, I have not fired this caliber with 300 grain RN bullet out to 400 yards or beyond.
But, the old heavy round nose bullet load is easy to hit baboon sized targets with at 300 yards / meters, while standing and firing from the shooting sticks, when using a scoped and reasonably accurate hunting rifle.

Parting Shot as it were:
I prefer this cartridge loaded down just a tic.
A blunt shaped 300 gr soft nose bullet at about 2400 fps is perfect for almost all of the big game hunting I have done at home and over seas.
However, as per the OP’s intent to whack baboons out to 400 yds, my favorite “bush load” as described, would definitely not be suitable.

Cheers,
Velo Dog.
 
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**Also, I’m no fan of boat tail bullets, due to my personal experiences indicating that, all else being equal, flat based bullets have shown me slightly better accuracy than boat tail ones have.

Most benchrest competitors utilize flat base bullets. Long range it where the boat tail shine.
 
The cartridge is absolutely capable. This might open a can of worms but I’ve never seen a Ruger that shot as well as you’d want for a 200 yard + shot on critters that size.
 
The cartridge is absolutely capable. This might open a can of worms but I’ve never seen a Ruger that shot as well as you’d want for a 200 yard + shot on critters that size.
I passed on the gorgeous Ruger in favor of a NIB custom shop model 70 Super Express. It's a pretty interesting rifle with factory built 3 leaf express rear site and muzzle brake. Not sure about the break though as I'm sure a braked 375 is pretty viscious on the ears. From what I've read though the M70 will hopefully be capable of the accuracy I want
 
I can personally attest to Craig Boddington's comments, based on load work I have done with my own 375 H&H. Loaded to 2550 or above, the 300 grain Sierra Gameking will fly with a trajectory nearly identical to the classic .308 Winchester/175 Sierra Matchking combo. If you mount a FFP LPVO, with a BDC reticle calibrated for the .308/175 Sierra combination, to your .375, you will find the BDC to be true and hits on a reduced IPSC torso target to be pretty easy out to 600 yards or so.

At present, Sierra isn't producing the 300 Gameking. The closest substitute is the Speer 270 grain boat tail soft point. It is readily available, inexpensive, and can be loaded to fly identically to the 300 Gameking.

Bullets like the Cutting Edge 300 MTH are loaded to a much longer OAL (these are a single feed only proposition) and can be pushed much faster than conventional bullets when used in combination with powders such as RL-17. Their combination of speed and bc allow trajectories that match 6.5x55/6.5 Creedmoor flight characteristics, making the 375 H&H a legitimate 1000 yard rifle (if you can control it well enough to shoot with precision).
 
I can personally attest to Craig Boddington's comments, based on load work I have done with my own 375 H&H. Loaded to 2550 or above, the 300 grain Sierra Gameking will fly with a trajectory nearly identical to the classic .308 Winchester/175 Sierra Matchking combo. If you mount a FFP LPVO, with a BDC reticle calibrated for the .308/175 Sierra combination, to your .375, you will find the BDC to be true and hits on a reduced IPSC torso target to be pretty easy out to 600 yards or so.

At present, Sierra isn't producing the 300 Gameking. The closest substitute is the Speer 270 grain boat tail soft point. It is readily available, inexpensive, and can be loaded to fly identically to the 300 Gameking.

Bullets like the Cutting Edge 300 MTH are loaded to a much longer OAL (these are a single feed only proposition) and can be pushed much faster than conventional bullets when used in combination with powders such as RL-17. Their combination of speed and bc allow trajectories that match 6.5x55/6.5 Creedmoor flight characteristics, making the 375 H&H a legitimate 1000 yard rifle (if you can control it well enough to shoot with precision).
Thanks for the load info! I'm just starting to reload and (if I can ever find large rifle primers) this will definitely be my main cartridge for it since factory ammo don't really concentrate on long range
 
I passed on the gorgeous Ruger in favor of a NIB custom shop model 70 Super Express. It's a pretty interesting rifle with factory built 3 leaf express rear site and muzzle brake. Not sure about the break though as I'm sure a braked 375 is pretty viscious on the ears. From what I've read though the M70 will hopefully be capable of the accuracy I want

Way cool. Load development is almost as fun as piece selection for me. Enjoy it. I’ve found that true load dev will put you through scores of rounds in your new rifle and will help you learn it better. You’ll want magnum primers, btw.

Good luck!
 
I’m not looking to take long shots with my 375 and haven’t practiced passed 200 yards, but I can easily hit 4 inch steel out to 200 off sticks with 300 gr a frames. I would suspect a 275 gr would reach 400 yards without too much drop. It’s quickly becoming my favorite cartridge and may look to build an all weather Winchester m70 in 375 soon.
What is an all weather m70 and how do I make it! ..just picked up a m70 safari but do a lot of hunting in canadian north
 
What is an all weather m70 and how do I make it! ..just picked up a m70 safari but do a lot of hunting in canadian north
Stainless ones are around. I have seen stainless actions for sale.
 
Cerakote makes stainless steel a "nice to have", but not a necessity. It's really the way to go for an all weather setup, even if it is a stainless action and barrel.
 
Cerakote makes stainless steel a "nice to have", but not a necessity. It's really the way to go for an all weather setup, even if it is a stainless action and barrel.
You can’t cerakote your bore and chamber, which is what I’m worried about the most. I’ve seen rusted bolt lugs after one hunt (not mine) . I live in a very salt wet environment, I can’t imagine what Alaska can do to a rifle.
 
You can’t cerakote your bore and chamber, which is what I’m worried about the most. I’ve seen rusted bolt lugs after one hunt (not mine) . I live in a very salt wet environment, I can’t imagine what Alaska can do to a rifle.

If you are going SS have it nitride. That will take all the worry out of it for you along with better barrel life.
 
You can’t cerakote your bore and chamber, which is what I’m worried about the most. I’ve seen rusted bolt lugs after one hunt (not mine) . I live in a very salt wet environment, I can’t imagine what Alaska can do to a rifle.

My .375 started life as a stainless synthetic M70. Stainless rifles rust when hunting in a salt environment. We used our boat as base camp and ran the zodiac in to hunt. A day of this would result in mild surface rust. So, After all the metal work was done on this rifle I had it Arctic Coated satin black. As mentioned above, you still need to clean the chamber and bore daily, but exterior rust is no longer an issue.
 
My .375 started life as a stainless synthetic M70. Stainless rifles rust when hunting in a salt environment. We used our boat as base camp and ran the zodiac in to hunt. A day of this would result in mild surface rust. So, After all the metal work was done on this rifle I had it Arctic Coated satin black. As mentioned above, you still need to clean the chamber and bore daily, but exterior rust is no longer an issue.
There’s a lot that goes into which stainless is used . 416 and 410 is used in almost all stainless firearm components, but there are options for better metals. Both of those rust pretty easily. 420 stainless, which is in same family is used for most kitchen silverware. If I build a 375 in the future I’ll go in the 17-4 range for the barrel which is a bit harder and stringy but holds up well. It does have carbon but once heat treated it really shines in the corrosion department.
 
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I can personally attest to Craig Boddington's comments, based on load work I have done with my own 375 H&H. Loaded to 2550 or above, the 300 grain Sierra Gameking will fly with a trajectory nearly identical to the classic .308 Winchester/175 Sierra Matchking combo. If you mount a FFP LPVO, with a BDC reticle calibrated for the .308/175 Sierra combination, to your .375, you will find the BDC to be true and hits on a reduced IPSC torso target to be pretty easy out to 600 yards or so.

At present, Sierra isn't producing the 300 Gameking. The closest substitute is the Speer 270 grain boat tail soft point. It is readily available, inexpensive, and can be loaded to fly identically to the 300 Gameking.

Bullets like the Cutting Edge 300 MTH are loaded to a much longer OAL (these are a single feed only proposition) and can be pushed much faster than conventional bullets when used in combination with powders such as RL-17. Their combination of speed and bc allow trajectories that match 6.5x55/6.5 Creedmoor flight characteristics, making the 375 H&H a legitimate 1000 yard rifle (if you can control it well enough to shoot with precision).
hello to all

Also nosler make the 300grs and 260grs ACCUBOND bullets, with realy good performance in game and with good BC for a long shoots,
so this could be a good option to use in a long shoots

Best Regards
 
I wonder if the 270 grain 375 Barnes LRX opens up out there? I have 150 pcs Hornady 270 Interlocks for short range practise. I have a 375 rifle coming. I may cast for it,too, if the barrel is good enough for coated cast.

The barrel needs to be broken in first, funny, an almost unfired 80's rifle.

Anyway,after finding the good load/bullet you want ballistic turrets of some sorts. I assume you use a rangefinder.

I have an old Sako 375 reserved, waiting for paperwork, buying license etc. Now shopping for a scope. I shoot a 308 with Steiner Sniper, it has a very practical calibrated distance drum. I can hit claybirds @ 320 m berm all day. My 300 WM has a Zeiss Diavari 6-24 Mil Dot with turrets and parallax adj. I need 23 clicks for 300 m 168 Sierra. 30 clicks for 200 Woodleigh etc etc... I practise 300 up to 500 m.

Hold over is guesswork at best at 400 / baboon. And wind. You don't want to wound baboons either.

Good luck!
 
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Hey guys I'm looking at a Ruger Safari Magnum in 375 h&h and am curious about the "long range" potential. I've seen several claims that the 375 Ruger is a 500 yard cartridge but those are really hard to find except in the Mossberg Patriots (no thanks). To head off ethical questions no I have no intentions of shooting at unwounded big game at that distance but there's a very good chance while returning from hunting Eland (my primary excuse for a 375/416) we run across monkeys or baboons and at 300-400 yards they're pretty small targets. I have no problems shooting my 300wm at 600 yards and I'd like to be able to take the 375 to at least 400 yards even if just at the range. Is this a realistic expectation from a hunting rifle like the RSM? Thanks for your info this will be my first rifle bigger than 30 cal so I don't want to go into it with unachievable expectations.
I zeroed my 375 HH, ZKK 602 at 100 meters, dead on.
Jackal was sitting at 209 meters, facing away from me.
I aimed at head, and hit neck with expected bullet drop.
No issues.
I would say it is pretty much accurate.
Modern hunting rifles are commonly 1 moa rifle, regardless of calibre.
What you need to have is bullet with reasonably high BC, to mimize the bullet drop and wind effect, and then dont worry.
I would suggest - forget 600 meters.
Limit yourself to 300.
Have ballistic turrets on the scope.
Treat your 375 H&H ballistically like it is 30-06 (as they have similar trajectory), dont overestimate yourself, and dont worry.
 
Another quite reasonable baboon option is to limit shots to 250 yds and use a 225 TSX zeroed 2" high @ 100.

I did not check with tables but I'm guessing 250 would be about the point blank range. No turrets needed, BC nor wind do not matter much at all. Target turrets are great but they can be forgotten in a wrong setting. Ask me how I know.

-----------

I have also been shooting beer cans with a 22 LR up to 200 meters for 30+ years , teaches you how wind and distance metering are critical.
 

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