New custom rifle questions

[Wiley64]

Fierce 375hh rifle just arrived for my dad for our buff trip next summer. I am looking for feedback on the scope mount, I didn’t pick it, I think it crowds the action too much. I also cycled a few rounds and the action is not that smooth, there is also a very clear shearing effect on the cartridges from them being picked up from the clip. The action is a sako action to my knowledge, everything feels sticky, how do you smooth out the function of these rifles with tighter tolerances? Again, not my rifle but gotta make sure it’s all in good order for dg hunting. See pics

 

[Wiley64]

See picture

 

[Rafiki]

Ditch the picatinny rail and get a decent mounting system. That thing is going to interfere with reloading in a pinch. Doesn't fit the rifle anyway.

 

[62flint]

talley rings and bases, Will open up access to the action. I took off a one piece Leopold base on my m70 and went with Talley's.
First step to trying to free up the action would be to simply work it,,, a lot.
Slightly more aggressive, try lapping polishing compound. But I would not do that unless you are familiar with doing it.
If it was me and I just spent the money on a Fierce and is was as rough as you are describing I would be on the phone with them.

 

[CZDiesel]

Yup! Not sure why they mounted with a rail but get rid of it and put on a good set of Talley!

 

[Wiley64]

talley rings and bases, Will open up access to the action. I took off a one piece Leopold base on my m70 and went with Talley's.
First step to trying to free up the action would be to simply work it,,, a lot.
Slightly more aggressive, try lapping polishing compound. But I would not do that unless you are familiar with doing it.
If it was me and I just spent the money on a Fierce and is was as rough as you are describing I would be on the phone with them.

I agree! I ain’t getting run over by a murder cow over it

 

[Ridge Runner]

Fierce 375hh rifle just arrived for my dad for our buff trip next summer. I am looking for feedback on the scope mount, I didn’t pick it, I think it crowds the action too much. I also cycled a few rounds and the action is not that smooth, there is also a very clear shearing effect on the cartridges from them being picked up from the clip. The action is a sako action to my knowledge, everything feels stick, how do you smooth out the function of these rifles with tighter tolerances? Again, not my rifle but gotta make sure it’s all in good order for dg hunting. See pics

First off does the spent case have plenty of room to clear that scope mount when cycling spent cases in a hurry, as in quick follow up shots?

I would move the front scope ring forward one notch. Looks like the rear scope ring is as far back as it will go. I personally try to avoid having any portion of base mounts or rings inside the cartridge port. However, with that short scope and big cap a 2 piece medium low or medium base is not an option.

Assuming this is a new rifle, as for "smooth out" the function it takes time just work the bolt and get use to the feel it most likely still has a few micro burrs that need to be worn off/down.

Not sure what you are calling a "shearing effect on the cartridges". This could be caused by micro burr(s), or a tight tolerances, or slight over tolerance.

Edit: I see others beat me to the post button.

What the others said, I would change out that scope for a longer tube and mount a 2 piece base and ring set.

 

[CZDiesel]

Agree RR, not sure I’d take a Vortex to a dangerous game hunt either? Not trying to belittle or denigrate but when your life is on the line Chinese optics are not what I’d be using…

 

[Wiley64]

First off does the spent case have plenty of room to clear that scope mount when cycling spent cases in a hurry, as in quick follow up shots?

I would move the front scope ring forward one notch. Looks like the rear scope ring is as far back as it will go. I personally try to avoid having any portion of base mounts or rings inside the cartridge port. However, with that short scope and big cap a 2 piece medium low or medium base is not an option.

Assuming this is a new rifle, as for "smooth out" the function it takes time just work the bolt and get use to the feel it most likely still has a few micro burrs that need to be worn off/down.

Not sure what you are calling a "shearing effect on the cartridges". This could be caused by micro burr(s), or a tight tolerances, or slight over tolerance.

Edit: I see others beat me to the post button.

What the others said, I would change out that scope for a longer tube and mount a 2 piece base and ring set.

The detachable magazine is scraping the side of the casing for the shells to the point there’s a noticable groove along the entire side of them, it’s occurring as they get picked up from the clip

 

[Wiley64]

Agree RR, not sure I’d take a Vortex to a dangerous game hunt either? Not trying to belittle or denigrate but when your life is on the line Chinese optics are not what I’d be using…

The fact that vortex has the silly bell on the end tells you it’s not intended to be on an action as long as a 375

 

[Ridge Runner]

Agree RR, not sure I’d take a Vortex to a dangerous game hunt either? Not trying to belittle or denigrate but when your life is on the line Chinese optics are not what I’d be using…

I'm not knocking the brand of scope. I don't know what the powers of the scope, but guessing a 1-6, 1-8, 2-8, the scope power just doesn't allow full range use of the caliber. It's what I call a 200 yard scope on a 400 yard rifle.

Since the owner likes the scope, I'm not going to knock him, his choice in scopes, or mounts. For the same money he could have done better or worse.

 

[JoninCO]

That Vortex is a Razor II, they’re made in the same factory as Nightforce, March, and the high end Bushnells and many others. LOW in Japan, check them out. It is an exceptionally high quality scope. Probably the most robust low-power variable optic on Earth, has passed all of NSWC Crane’s acceptance testing and is issued to our Tier 1 SOF units. It isn’t a Chinese Strike Eagle or anything, it’s also got the most forgiving 1X view of any optic I’ve ever owned. It will be perfect.

 

[Rafiki]

I know nothing about Fierce so I did "The Google" on it. It appears that they are into light weight rifles. If this rifle is the 6lbs I see it will likely kick like a mule. A 10lb 375 H&H has about 40lbs of free recoil. Granted it's not a big bore but ....?

Anyway, you have what you have. Get the scope mounting corrected, practice a hell-of-a lot and have a great hunt.

Where will you be hunting?

 

[Wiley64]

I know nothing about Fierce so I did "The Google" on it. It appears that they are into light weight rifles. If this rifle is the 6lbs I see it will likely kick like a mule. A 10lb 375 H&H has about 40lbs of free recoil. Granted it's not a big bore but ....?

Anyway, you have what you have. Get the scope mounting corrected, practice a hell-of-a lot and have a great hunt.

Where will you be hunting?

The eastern cape, he will be running a can on the end so hopefully the recoil will be manageable

 

[Wiley64]

That Vortex is a Razor II, they’re made in the same factory as Nightforce, March, and the high end Bushnells and many others. LOW in Japan, check them out. It is an exceptionally high quality scope. Probably the most robust low-power variable optic on Earth, has passed all of NSWC Crane’s acceptance testing and is issued to our Tier 1 SOF units. It isn’t a Chinese Strike Eagle or anything, it’s also got the most forgiving 1X view of any optic I’ve ever owned. It will be perfect.

Looking through the scope is impressive, great clarity

 

[CZDiesel]

I worked for Swarovski for two years, that does NOT make me an expert or knowledgeable about every brand or model out there!
However, I would not take a Vortex on a dangerous game hunt! Respectfully, my opinion only…

 

[Ridge Runner]

The detachable magazine is scraping the side of the casing for the shells to the point there’s a noticable groove along the entire side of them, it’s occurring as they get picked up from the clip

Unfortunately your picture doesn't show me anything that I can identify as a possible cause.

Are all 3 cartridges showing the same scratch or just the 2 on one side?

The way you are describing the problem makes me wonder either the cartridge is coming up to high As the bolt is pushing the cartridge into the chamber

Or

The cartridge retaining lip(s) on the magazine are a micro shade over tolerance(s) with micro burrs along the edges.

Or

The magazine is micro under sized not in a true alignment for the bolt to push the cartridge straight into the chamber. As the bolt is being pushed forward it is canting the cartridge up, just enough to cause metal to brass contact, but not enough to cause the bullet to ride down the mouth of the chamber.

Does the cartridge lip around the bullet show or indicate any kind rubbing or marring?

It's not a 100% check, but you can try a cotton ball test. WARNING: These lips can be very sharp. So be careful not to cut yourself.

Using a fluffy cotton ball ever so Gently, Gently and Slowly, Slowly run the cotton ball from the rear of the magazine to the front of the magazine along the cartridge retaining lip. Repeat along the inside of the retaining lip. Looking and feeling for the Slightest, Slightest snagging. When the cotton finds a burr it will snag. Because micro burrs are just that micro you have to be very sensitive to feel the resistance. Repeat on the other side.

Best case scenario is it is a micro burr. Worse case scenario it is a metal burr. Thus the repeated Gently and Slowly to avoid getting cut. Sometimes I get lucky and a piece of cotton fiber sticks to the burr.

Now since this is a new gun I would be contacting the manufacturer tell them the problem(s) you are having and request they polish the bolt, action, inside the magazine to include the lips, the entire receiver, and chamber.

 

[Ridge Runner]

Looking through the scope is impressive, great clarity

Don't mean to upset @CZDiebut I'll be mounting a 1.5 - 8 x 28 mil dot Vortex with lighted reticle on my 458WM when I get back to the house in prep for next year's cape buff hunt.

Now whether it stays or goes depends on the rigorous range time the 458WM will be going through in prep for the hunt. My friend who will be my PH says we will be shooting around 50 yards. Shot my Zim buff facing us at +/-15 yards using my 375H&H. PH was immediate back up with his 458WM. We had zero intentions of tracking a wounded buff in the thick brush.thankfully the rest of the herd exited away from us because we had zero reaction time if they had charged us and 7 man our party.

 

[BJH65]

I worked for Swarovski for two years, that does NOT make me an expert or knowledgeable about every brand or model out there!
However, I would not take a Vortex on a dangerous game hunt! Respectfully, my opinion only…

The quality, durability and clarity of a Vortex Gen II Razor 1-6x24 and 1-10x24 is comparable to Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica and Schmidt & Bender. These are made in Japan and NOT to be confused with the lower end Vortex made in the Philippines and China, even though those are fine for deer hunting.

The price point for a Vortex Gen II Razor 1-6x24 is in the $1500 range and the Vortex Gen II Razor 1-10x24 is in the $2500 range. These are not cheap scopes and I would bet my life on one. I believe these scopes are desirable to the 3 gun crowd and perhaps not designed specifically as a DG scope but they serve the purpose. Your opinion may hold water regarding the Vortex scopes made in the Philippines and China, but your opinion on the Vortex Razor is 100% wrong! Respectively

 

[Ridge Runner]

The fact that vortex has the silly bell on the end tells you it’s not intended to be on an action as long as a 375

Well...Actually....

The scope position and the way it is mounted tells me the shooter hunkers down on the rifle, is a custom to using iron sights, and knows how to handle heavy recoil, most likely 12 gauge shotgun.

His choice of scope is probably from reading too many opinions on what scope powers to use on "big bore", "DG rifles", and considers the 375H&H a "Big Bore". Yeah...ok....375 is bigger than .308, .311, .338, etc. typical American "Big Bore" big game rifles.

Alright....I digressed off topic.....

@Wiley64, you are correct, but not for the reason you give. The tube is too short, plain and simple. To correct the problem of the short tube length the owner opted for a picatany rail. Again no problem, W e l l...except for the style, and I can't really tell by the photo if this rail is a one piece or three piece, so I going with a 1 piece.

Had I mounted it my new Dremel tool would be getting broke in by grinding the excess metal away from the cartridge port. Resulting in a nice smooth symmetrical opening with the front ring up one notch away from the cartridge port. I would then look at cutting in a slot in the rear of the picatany rail so I could move the rear scope ring away from the cartridge port.

There would be some more Dremel work but in the end what this gentleman has after a bit of make over, I would be comfortable to use.