Best 30mm rings

[1dirthawker]

as noted above, that is a lot of scope for that rifle. a 1-4x or 6x would be less likely to slip, be lighter and more appropriate. 2 cents worth.

 

[Sika98k]

Spuhr make excellent mounts. A friend of mine shoots PRS at a very high level. Spuhr are his go to. Myself I have used Weaver back in the day. Now I tend towards either Warne QD or Leupold.

 

[Luvthunt]

I have Talley on several big kickers no problems.

 

[Jamie D Van Roekel]

I use Talley bases with their QD rings for most of my bolt action rifles. I have never had any slippage with Talley rings on my 375 RUM or my Weatherby 30-378.

Not sure what those rifles weigh, but there’s a couple kickers.

 

[tydaws]

I'm a big fan of Hawkins Precision rings. All of my high use custom rifles currently wear them.

For a more classic look, Talley has good reviews, although I've never personally used them. I have a rifle in the works for Africa next summer. A classic build on a pre 64 M70 that I plan to use Talley rings on, at the recommendation of my smith. I'm not a fan of the single screw Talleys, so I'll be going with the "Screw Lock Detachable Rings" as they have two screws top & bottom & a cross bolt, similar to a picatinny or weaver style. The single screw model is probably a solid product, just personal preference for me. I'd rather have twice as many fasteners that are appropriately torqued.

I've used Warne Maxima vertical split rings quite a bit over the years as a more budget friendly option. Never had any issue whatsoever.

I ALWAYS use loctite blue 242 & torque to spec. I know many advise against this, but I've never had any issue.

 

[Luvthunt]

I would rather shoot my 458 Lott then a friends 378 Wby any day.

 

[Rez Exelon]

My favorite rings would be Vortex PMR's. Spuhr makes excellent mounts as well. I'm trying a new set from KDG which is a slick sided quick release mount. I plan to mount a US Optics FDN-10x on top of a custom made Rem 700 7mm Rem using this one:

SIDELOK - Modular Optic Mount - 34MM

Sidelok is mounting system for optics eliminating the need for tools, levers, or knobs, offering a simple push button design to securely mount any optic.

kineticdg.com

Time will tell.

 

[Laniarius]

I ALWAYS use loctite blue 242 & torque to spec. I know many advise against this, but I've never had any issue.

As many others have explained, the friction reduction from fresh loctite will lead to torquing higher than the specs, which are meant for bare metal contact. I'm not arguing with your experience and it's not my business. But I am curious and want to learn from what others have tried.

In some recent (since December) videos on Desert Dog Outdoors, he thinks that torque issues have become more common in recent years because of many manufacturers making scope tube walls thinner as the market asks for lighter scopes. There's also a trend towards people dialing more and using features like adjustable parallax compared to years past, which creates more possibilities for mechanical problems from over torque to become apparent.

Do you tend to use the really tough scopes like Nightforce, or maybe older scopes? It's also possible that you're just lucky with the tolerance variations on your particular scopes and rings. Thanks.

 

[tydaws]

As many others have explained, the friction reduction from fresh loctite will lead to torquing higher than the specs, which are meant for bare metal contact. I'm not arguing with your experience and it's not my business. But I am curious and want to learn from what others have tried.

In some recent (since December) videos on Desert Dog Outdoors, he thinks that torque issues have become more common in recent years because of many manufacturers making scope tube walls thinner as the market asks for lighter scopes. There's also a trend towards people dialing more and using features like adjustable parallax compared to years past, which creates more possibilities for mechanical problems from over torque to become apparent.

Do you tend to use the really tough scopes like Nightforce, or maybe older scopes? It's also possible that you're just lucky with the tolerance variations on your particular scopes and rings. Thanks.

I do utilize mostly Nightforce scopes, especially on my primary rifles. However, I have two rifles with Leupold VX5s that were chosen for weight savings over similar Nightforce offerings. Again, no issues.

You are absolutely correct, per engineering principle (calculated fact, not opinion), that Loctite or any other material that acts as a thread lubricant, thus reducing friction factor, will lead to over torqueing.

However, my opinion is that quality components (such as Hawkins rings) are engineered with a safety factor in mind that weighs into their recommended torque specs. Therefore, with quality scope tubes, I do not think that the degree of over torqueing that occurs or could occur with Loctite is significant enough to generally cause damage (again, my opinion only as I have not preformed calculations nor seen calculated data on this). At least for me, the piece of mind that I get from adding Loctite to my ring screws outweighs the risk of scope tube damage, as I have seen none to date when following proper torque procedures and actually employing a quality torque wrench. As you mentioned, I may just be lucky, in which case I'll take the luck!

Just a thought, but I would be interested in seeing the torque procedures and torque wrenches utilized by those that have had issues that are blamed on Loctite. My assumption is that in some or many cases, no torque wrenches are used whatsoever. I know that the one and only scope tube that I have ever damaged was back when I was in my late teen years, long before I utilized Loctite on ring screws or owned a torque wrench.

 

[Laniarius]

I do utilize mostly Nightforce scopes, especially on my primary rifles. However, I have two rifles with Leupold VX5s that were chosen for weight savings over similar Nightforce offerings. Again, no issues.

You are absolutely correct, per engineering principle (calculated fact, not opinion), that Loctite or any other material that acts as a thread lubricant, thus reducing friction factor, will lead to over torqueing.

However, my opinion is that quality components (such as Hawkins rings) are engineered with a safety factor in mind that weighs into their recommended torque specs. Therefore, with quality scope tubes, I do not think that the degree of over torqueing that occurs or could occur with Loctite is significant enough to generally cause damage (again, my opinion only as I have not preformed calculations nor seen calculated data on this). At least for me, the piece of mind that I get from adding Loctite to my ring screws outweighs the risk of scope tube damage, as I have seen none to date when following proper torque procedures and actually employing a quality torque wrench. As you mentioned, I may just be lucky, in which case I'll take the luck!

Just a thought, but I would be interested in seeing the torque procedures and torque wrenches utilized by those that have had issues that are blamed on Loctite. My assumption is that in some or many cases, no torque wrenches are used whatsoever. I know that the one and only scope tube that I have ever damaged was back when I was in my late teen years, long before I utilized Loctite on ring screws or owned a torque wrench.

You're probably right that a lot of the damage comes from people not using torque wrenches.

Another one, that I personally experienced and which was mentioned by Desert Dog (link to thread here: https://www.africahunting.com/threads/latest-desert-dog-optics-videos.78919/) is that ring makers can specify torque based on what the screws and threads in their rings can take, but the torque to avoid damaging a scope can be lower. I've seen 25 in-lbs for a few ring sets, but now the scope manufacturers are recommending around 17 in-lbs. Combined with the loctite friction reduction, that could be a significant torquing above what's good for the scope.

With Nightforce, it sounds like you could bubba something with angle irons and carriage bolts and still not damage them... (I've been thinking of an excuse for getting a Nightforce, but I would nonetheless treat it with respect.)

To contribute to the OP's question, between .375 Ruger and H&H, I have used Ruger factory rings, Alaska Arms, Leupold, Warne and Talley, all with no slippage or shift at all.

 

[Houston Bill]

Not sure what those rifles weigh, but there’s a couple kickers.

I no longer own the Weatherby Accumark in 30-378, I sold it here on AH last year, so not sure what it weighed but it was not a light rifle. My 375 RUM weights just under 11 lbs with the rings and scope.

I have used Talley rings for a long time and they have worked well for me. I know there are other very good scope ring manufactures out there, many of them mentioned in this post, but I stick with Talley.

 

[Letzhunt]

Loctite is never needed and does nothing for scope rings. This is because the spring action of the top ring has pressure,springback, on the screws. They don't loosen even under heavy recoil. Mounts like on a red dot emitter sight can lessen as there is no spring back or tension pressure. People do it for insurance...ok fine but not needed. Bases yes 100% of the time use it on the bases. Many ring sets have been ruined because of loctite. If you do want them to come off use a soldering iron and heat the screw head with a tip that just fits in the head of the screw. Do that for a few minutes and put downward pressure on your driver and turn slowly....if it doesn't move heat some more. I have taken out many this way. Put new screws in without loctite and never had anyone come back and say their scope was loose. I also use nightforce and put them in Hawkins rings.

 

[Jamie D Van Roekel]

Did you lap the night force rings? I had a set slip on me with a night force scope. I have since ordered a lapping kit but have not lapped that set yet.

I called Nightforce today and if on a picatinny base they do not recommend lapping. I didn’t ask about other applications.

 

[Jamie D Van Roekel]

I'm not a fan of such big glass for obvious reasons, its hard to find your target and it sits so high above the bore that you get hit with a lot more recoil. So the only thing worse than all of that would be high rings in a pic rail to compound it.

I recommend Talley bases and talley QD Medium rings for that scope. You have to get it as low as possible to work with the comb for any reasonable usability off sticks in the bush.

To most people it does seem high. Not sure why but fits me like a glove. Maybe because I have a sort neck so my head stays more vertical. All the guns I hunt with are set up nearly the same.

 

[crossone]

Precision Hardcore Gear

Precision Hardcore Gear

Our manufacturing plant is located in Lewiston, Idaho on the banks of the the Snake River and Hells Canyon. This is long range rifle country and we do our part to burn the powder! You can rest assured we have tested all of our products to the extreme, with countless hours on the shooting...

precisionhardcoregear.com

These guys make great rails and rings in Lewiston, Idaho. I know of others who have had the Nightforce rings slip and as much as I love Nightforce scopes, I buy my rings from these guys.

Another great option!

crossone

 

[Dewald]

In order of preference.

1. Alaska Arms QD
2.Talley QD
3. Warne QD

 

[62flint]

I called Nightforce today and if on a picatinny base they do not recommend lapping. I didn’t ask about other applications.

I removed the scope from my rifle that slipped yesterday evening.
Wish I took pictures.
The rings and scope showed slight wear marks indicating the spots that had contact and slipped.
The alignment pins indicated good alignment. ( little points matched up )
I went on to check contact with some machinist lay out dye.
I found the rings did not make full contact to the straight edge.
So I did lap the nightforce rings to get full contact between the ring and scope body.
Alignment was never a issue.
Took very little lapping to bring the rings into full contact.
Scope is remounted and witness marks made on the scope to check for movement.

The amount of slip I had was very slight. I noticed my impact was shifting to the right.
My movement from zero was between 4 inches at 600 yards over 50 rounds

 

[Altitude sickness]

30mm Scope Rings

The APA Gen 2 30mm Tru-Loc Scope Rings are among the strongest in the world due to their unique design, premium materials, and unmatched build quality. They possess the ability to return to an infinite zero because of the engineering geometries utilized. Available in three different heights...

www.americanprecisionarms.com

 

[BeeMaa]

I wish this would catch on more in the US because it just makes sense...rail mounted scopes. In other words, a rail is part of the scope body that is then attached to an adapter that goes to the rifle. This means the force goes from the receiver to the mount to the scope, removing the rings from the equation. It also makes for one less point of (possible) failure and there is no need to level the scope.

 

[Altitude sickness]

Also BeeMaa, there would be a fraction of the “defective” scopes losing zero.

From improper base and ring installation