Day 8 – 28/10/2022 – Disco Fever, Bandits and Construction Work
The next morning, we were back at it, getting up around 5:00. We were going to be hunting for leopard bait. Zebra, Mbizi in Shona, still being the primary target. We quickly got on the tracks of another herd of zebra, so we started to run after them, hiking up and down the kopjes to get an angle on them. However, they kept on winding us and trotting off again. We left Garth and Seda on one kopje, in order to spot the herd for us, while we walked over to the next kopje. It was a clean, beautiful sunny morning. With the sky finally cleared of all the smoke and dust that we had been walking through from the first days.
We came to the top of the next kopje, when the radio crackled with Garth’s voice, saying the herd was moving our way and would be breaking the bush cover to come into an open area just in front of us. Upon direction of Vaughan, I went down on my belly on a particularly large boulder, trying to steady my 7mm and myself on it. Just then the herd broke cover and came in a trot towards us, with the stallion in the lead. As we never had much luck chasing zebra, I was under the impression that Vaughan wanted me to take a shot as soon as I would be comfortable. Looking through the superb Swarovski Z6i 1.7-10x42, aiming about 40m lower and 100m away, I took a shot at the slowly but steadily trotting stallion, slightly quartering to.
A good hit, but he didn’t go down just yet. With the boom the whole herd had picked up speed again, but we could clearly see that the stallion was sick, not keeping pace with the others and starting to split off. “Give him another one”, Vaughan said, so another shot rang out, this time broadside. He again sped up for a few meters to come to a standstill, facing away. Vaughan told me to put one up his behind, and I tried to break a bone shooting him from behind. He was not really running anywhere anymore, so a final shot strongly quartering away at around 150m brought him down once and for all.
Although the first shot probably would have done the trick in the end, Vaughan was worried that we would have to spend too much time tracking him, especially once he would reach cover. As long as he was standing, I was having a clear line of sight and felt comfortable, I should just keep shooting, he told me afterwards. He was surprised by my first shot though, as he had read the animals to be slowing down and come to a standstill and thought I would shoot once they would be standing still. In any case all good in the end.
Trying to get off the boulder, I had to give my rifle to Mlillo, before I could get off of it. We slid down the kopje and walked over and found out that the first hit was in the lungs, with the entry in the black of a stripe. Which is why we could not see where I had hit him. The RWS Kegelspitz bullets that I was using in the 7x64, would not penetrate to the other side either, stopping just under the skin. Meaning that for an animal to succumb from blood loss alone, would take some time.
We took a few pictures and then dug two holes in the ground, at the width of the rear wheels of the Land Cruiser, just next to the zebra. This allowed the Cruiser to back up into those holes, and have the truck bed much lower so it would be easier to load the stallion up. Then off to the skinning shed, to get the hide off and have him quartered for the bait. I also asked them to keep the 2 fighting teeth. Canines that the stallions have for fighting purposes. Then a quick lunch and off we were, to go put up some bait!
We had a total of 4 quarters from the zebra, as well as half an impala still from two days ago, so we would go out to set up 5 bait sites to begin with. If we would get to hunt some more, we could set up more bait.
The first bait would be hung in a corner of Marshlands, where the recent fires had not reached, so there was still a lot of cover, and where there were some nice kopjes and cliff faces that should make for good leopard habitat. The other 4 would be hung in the conservancy proper.
While driving to the first bait location, with a truck full of meat and tools to construct bait locations and prepare the terrain for a possible blind, we saw to our front left in the distance 2 men walking with dogs. As soon as they saw the truck they started running and Vaughan yelled “Poachers! Catch them!”. Garth was the first one off the truck. In his youth he used to play number 8 in rugby and this clearly showed in his muscular physique. These days, he is of a bit more robust nature, but the rugby background is not far, so seeing him go full throttle after them, is a sight to behold. Pity the man that would get tackled by him.
The car hadn't come to a full stop and so were Junior and Seda following suit, sprinting after the poachers. Vaughan yelled after the three “100 bucks for who catches them!”. He swiftly spun the Land Cruiser around on the sand road and raced back to cut them off on the other side of the block. We had driven to the northern border of Marshland’s and this block was bordering on the highway. The point where we had seen the men, was about 1/3rd in to the road that ran parallel to the highway. As the men had run into the block, in the direction of the highway, we would try to cut them off on the other side.
Having been used to fast driving the past few days, Vaughan still managed to kick it up a notch and drove his Land Cruiser like a true Colin McRae, flying over the sandy roads to the opposite corner, where the road meets the highway. Mid-way he slammed the brakes and told Mlillo to get out and keep a lookout if they would come his way and then we sped on. Reaching the highway, Vaughan drove for a few hundred meters, and after us both getting out, asked me to keep my bino’s trained to the front, while he ran back to the corner, so he could see Mlillo from afar and myself and keep in visual range of two sides of the block. On the highway side, the block was not particularly straight, with a large bend about 400 meters away, so I crossed the highway to the other side, in order to have a better angle on the rest of the block.
What seemed like a long time, but was probably only a few minutes, I heard Vaughan yelling behind me to get back to the truck. Both of us breaking into a dead sprint to the Cruiser. Garth and the others had caught one and could use some assistance, as he had turned violent towards Junior. Speeding again back to where we had originally seen the poachers, we just stopped for a few seconds mid-way to pick up Mlillo. Vaughan had a smile on his face when he saw him. Mlillo is a 48-year-old proud man of stoic nature, and seeing that he had taken off his vest to prepare for physical activity had Vaughan chuckling. Everyone at the Marshlands camp it seemed, shared the same feelings for poachers.
Driving back to the same location where we had first spotted them, we used some bird calls to guide Garth and the others back to the truck. The poacher that they had caught, after running in the direction of the highway, had double-backed, crossed the road from where we had spotted them and went into the block on the right. Garth, Seda and Junior were following him hot on his heels, so he tried to escape by trying to get through a barbed-wire cattle fence, where he got his shirt properly ripped off him, and sustained a few large bleeding gashes on his back.
Seeing that his escape route was not going to work, the poacher turned around to Junior, who was hot on his heels, grabbed a big stone and tried to bash Junior’s skull in with it. Luckily, Garth and Seda were not far behind, and the three of them managed to pin him down on the ground. As there was no rope in the neighbourhood, Garth removed the laces from his boots, and used it to tie the poacher’s hands behind his back.
It was a rather surly looking man, at the head of the 4-person procession, coming out of the woods in the direction of the truck. The trackers sat him down, and started to question the man in Shona. He quickly started talking, how he and his mate were just out looking for their cat. With their dogs. As excuses go, not the most imaginative. However, while we were milling about with the trackers trying to get more out of the man, we had a stroke of luck. Garth was off to the side, trying to have a look around the location where we had first spotted them, to see if they had dropped anything. In fact, they had. From the tall grass, Garth pulled two crude spears made from rebar steel with sharpened points. These would be used to stick antelopes that the dogs had bayed up.
These spears would now constitute the formal evidence, so pictures of the spears were taken, together with the poacher. We called up the Parks Ranger, who would deliver him to the nearby police station. After having seen the Parks Ranger arrive, he did start giving up the name of his mate, most likely in order to elicit some clemency. As the poacher’s bad luck would have it, there was a tough brigade of Zimbabwean police, called the "black boots", in the area, and they would be less gentle about the whole affair.
Once this whole business was settled, we resumed our drive to go place the first bait. There is a lot of thought that goes into selecting a good bait location. Vaughan and Garth explained it using a technique they called “Bait-Object-Blind”. The way it works is by first locating the “Object”. A river, a road, a clearing, an open field, anything that will have a leopard feel safe from that direction, as he can clearly see anything from afar.
A leopard can see about 7 times better in the dark than a human being. That, combined with their almost telescopic sight, like birds of prey, means that the most minor movement they can notice from a far distance away. The best protection against being spotted is then to keep the attention of the leopard away from your direction. If he feels safe from the direction you are sitting in, he should focus his eyesight and attention on closer bushes and possible threats.
After choosing the “Object”, the bait and the blind are constructed on opposite sides of the object. This way, the leopard will have a lower tendency to be looking in the direction of the blind, while he is at the bait.
For the bait site, Professional Hunters will mostly try to find a sturdy tree, from which to hang the bait. Each PH having their own technique, some hanging the bait very high, others very low, Vaughan definitely fell into the latter camp. Due to the area, there are very little hyena’s and no lions or any other predator with which a leopard would need to contend. As it is cattle country, the locals probably drove the lions away quite a while ago, while any hyena’s that dare to try their hand on the cattle, will see the carcass of their kill poisoned or snares set up by the locals.
When selecting the bait site, an eye is also kept as to the possible location for the blind. As mentioned on the opposite side of the “Object”. As it is hilly country, by preference Vaughan and Garth would try to find a way for the blind to be located higher than the bait. This gives an additional protection against being spotted by an incoming leopard early on, as well as provides a safer shot angle. Shooting down into the ground. Often multiple locations around the same Object would be tried, in order to find the perfect combination. The goal would be to have as much possible natural cover at the blind, requiring the least amount of brush to be cut between Blind and Bait, so as to not create a tunnel effect pointing straight to our faces sitting in the blind.
The bait would then be hung up, often but not always, with a branch underneath it that would allow only a leopard to stand on it and dictate the angle at which he can eat from the meat. Sitting in the blind this would then provide a perfect broad side shot at the vitals. Finally, some branches with leaves would be hung over the meat. This is not really to protect the meat against the all-seeing eyes of vultures, as the vulture population has been decimated in recent years, from having eaten from poisoned carcasses. Rather, these branches would protect the meat from direct sunlight and the heat, so the meat would not rot so quickly.
We repeated this selection process of “Bait-Object-Blind” four more times in the conservancy and communal areas. I tried to help out a bit, clearing out some brush with the typical African bush axe, but the trackers knew what they were doing and I was mostly in their way. By the time we setup the fifth bait, it was getting late and we headed back to Marshlands.
With the rains that had fallen in the past few days, insects had also started to come out of every nook and cranny. Giant swarms of winged termites had streamed out of their underground fortresses, rhinoceros beetles were roaring around, and all manner of stinging, biting and slithering critters were coming out of hiding. We gathered for sundowners in the main dining area, with as much of the artificial light shut off, so as to not attract too much creepers. While we were having a cold beer, suddenly Junior came limping up to Vaughan, holding in his hand a scorpion that he had trampled to death, while walking between the camp buildings. The critter had stung him on the upper foot and he was obviously in great pain, but brave as he was, he did not want to let us know. He just wanted to have Vaughan and Garth check online if it was a dangerous scorpion or not. They started looking up pictures of scorpions and comparing the one in the trembling hand of Junior with an online database. Hopefully it would not be a dangerous one, as we were about 1.5hours from the nearest hospital and in Zimbabwe it is never certain they would have any anti-venom available anyway. While they were researching, Vaughan asked if I had any pain killers and anti-inflammatory medication. I had some Ibuprofen on hand that I had been using to calm my knees in the first days. After getting it, Vaughan gave Junior two 400mg tablets and told him to come see them in the morning for two more. In the meantime, Garth and Vaughan had concluded that it was not a dangerous one, and it was not a life-threatening injury. It would be very painful, the swelling would remain for a few hours, but nothing much worse and there was nothing else to be done but to dull the pain and reduce the swelling with the Ibuprofen.
We had a hasty dinner by candle light, with again swarms of insects all around us, attracted to any light source and we were off to bed. After getting to my lodge, I had a shower and changed into my sleeping wear and had the habit of having a few quiet minutes, sitting on my porch and having a last smoke. Looking up at the sky full of stars, is how I like to end my evening. While doing so, I heard something moving about in front of me. A rabbit was sitting only 5 meters away looking at me. After a few minutes it ran off. A minute or two later, I heard something slithering to my right side. I looked down from my chair, and just as my eyes could make out the form in the dark, it stopped moving about 50cm away from me. There was a about a 1.5-meter-long green-brown snake sliding itself around a support pillar of the lodge, just next to my naked feet. Being all enthusiastic about seeing a snake from close by, I whipped out my iPhone to try and get some pictures of it. Fumbling with the flash setting, the snake acted as if it was caught and started to move away.
Not fully appreciating what had just happened, I sent a picture of the snake to Vaughan. The next day he identified it as a small spitting cobra. Next time I should be reaching for a long stick or a heavy boot, instead of a camera!
Day 9 - 29/10/2022 – Hattrick
Today would be the first of our bait check tours and the anticipation was high as Vaughan and Garth were aware of 3 big male leopards operating in the areas we had baited. However, on this first tour, no tracks, no sign of anything. Using a mixture of blood, guts, stomach content and faeces, a soup was prepared that would be used to provide each bait site with a short blood trail. What the reason was that the blood trail was only placed the day after hanging the baits, I do not know. I’ll need to ask Vaughan and Garth about the rationale behind this.
Vaughan and Garth did not believe in making very long blood drags, instead counting on a very strong smelling and short trail. This should make it easy for a leopard to find the bait, before losing interest in a too long blood trail.
While we were checking one of the last baits on our route, we came upon a group of baboons that were crossing the road. The big dog was staying behind, looking at us, while the rest of the group scurried over the sandy track. Hunting baboons, which are considered pests in Africa, is always good sport, so I jumped off the truck, using the open front door as a support, and let a 7mm bullet fly. Direct hit on the chest and he was down. It is not a favourite of a leopard, but an extra bait is an extra bait. We strung him up, upside down, from a nearby tree, in view of the road, so it would be easy to check on him. Baptizing him “Hanging George”, we went on our way.
After all baits had been checked and the blood trail added, we drove back from the communal areas to camp, for lunch and a siesta. We were all still fatigued from the proceedings the days before. After some rest, we decided to pile into the Land Cruiser and do a drive around Marshlands, to see if we could find any other disco donkeys for bait. While driving through some particularly thick bush, we came upon a female Kori Bustard. Bustards are some of the largest African birds that can still fly. They have their nests on the ground however, so seeing a female walking around and checking us out, probably meant a nest was in the neighbourhood.
Continuing on, with the sky turning redder as the sun started its descent for the day, we suddenly spotted a klipspringer on a kopje about 200 meters away. A klipspringer is a very peculiar little antelope, weighing only about 10-15kg and being only about 50cm tall. As their name suggests, they love being on rocks and cliffs, jumping from stone to stone. Their coat is also a bit different. While the colours are a simple sandy reddish brown with hints of grey and yellow, the hairs are hollow. These hollow hairs help with insulation on icy cold nights, as well as protects the animal against falls, although these are rare for such a surefooted animal as a klipspringer.
As soon as Vaughan had established that this klipspringer was a shooter, I got out of the cruiser, and Garth handed me the 7x64, while Vaughan setup the sticks. Then came the most embarrassing 10 minutes of the trip, with me fumbling around with the sticks. Each time I tried to get a solid rest to aim at the tiny klipspringer, from about 150m, one of the legs of the shooting sticks would pop out and I would basically be on an awkward bipod.
After many expletives from my side, with Vaughan most likely facepalming himself and thinking “bloody hell get on with it!”, I finally got setup nice and solid and put the crosshairs on the back rib of the klipspringer, who was quartering to us. He still felt safe on his perch in the sun, as he would be able to see us approaching from far away. As the crosshairs settled, I gently pressed the trigger and the 7mm barked.
On such a small animal, the 7x64, with the soft lead bullets, was a bit overkill and the results were quite explosive. A full mount would no longer be possible. But what a beautiful little antelope he was!
A few pictures later, and off we were to see what else the bush had to offer on this magnificent sunny African evening. Leaving the Land Cruiser behind, we hiked up a kopje to have a better look around and to enjoy a spectacular African sunset. While on top of the kopje, Vaughan spotted a group of Zebra about a kilometre away. Joining this herd of zebra was also a nice warthog. While Vaughan would keep overwatch, Garth and I slid down from the kopje and began the short hike across the burnt bush in their direction. Depending on the situation when we arrived there, we would either go for the zebra for bait, or for the warthog.
We moved from bush to bush and finally came to a small ravine. The animals we had spotted were on the other side. We gently tried to get down to the ravine, trying not to have too many rocks falling from under our feet and then climbed up the other side. While climbing up and with the first flatter parts coming into sight, we spooked a couple of duiker. Garth asked me if I wanted to go for a good duiker instead but they ran off before his question was completely out of his mouth. We pressed on, ever slower, in the direction of where we thought the zebra herd would be, until they suddenly came into sight. We had to go a bit further though to get on flatter ground, so the sticks could be set up. A bit more fumbling trying to get stable, while the stallion was looking straight at us, heavily quartering-to. I put the cross hairs on the right side of the stallion’s chest, almost on his shoulder and my shot rang out. We could immediately see bright red heart blood spurting out and after having run a full circle of about 10 meters across, he piled up within 10 seconds. With the sun setting on the horizon behind us, Garth managed to takes some amazing pictures. Then getting the truck in and loading up. We were all in a festive mood, having seen plenty of animals that day, and connected on three species over the course of the day! Now that we had more bait, as well as some extra steaks from the zebra for our dinner’s and lunches, we would be able to put even more bait sites up.
Arriving back at the lodge and dropping the klipspringer and the zebra off at the skinning shed, we gathered around the dinner table for excellent eland schnitzels. A camp favourite!