Somethings never end. Others just seem endless. This is one of the latter.
Day After the Hunt
We slept in today, had a full breakfast at 8 am, packed our bags, and were on the road for Bulawayo by 9. All of my previous trips to Zimbabwe had been solo, so once my hunt was over, I headed for home. On this trip, my wife and I decided to spend a couple of extra days in Bulawayo to see some of the sights, and we are glad we did.
Dean is also a registered guide, and guides in Matopos (or Matobo) National Park, one of the largest parks in Zimbabwe, and the home of the largest number of white and black rhinos in Zim.
Matopos is about 20 miles from Bulawayo, so very close. We joined up with a group of Swedish tourists who were on a tour with the company Dean guides for (and who were staying in the same hotel as we were). The guide gave us an excellent introduction to rhinos, and the problems they face. He was quite eloquent and passionate – he clearly loves these beasts, and fears for their survival under the current CITES regime.
I could see that he made quite an impact on our Swedish friends, as he did on my wife. I have some confidence that each of those who were with us that day will carry the message that there are some Africans who really do care about rhinos, and that countries with no skin in the game perhaps ought not to be telling Africans what to do, particularly since the current regime has seen the decimation of the continent’s rhino population. Imagine that – a ban on the trade in rhino horn is followed by extinction of the rhino. Would that be considered a success story by someone? Anyone? Does anyone think that rhino would be on the brink of extinction if there was legalized trade in rhino horn?
After the talk, we were joined by park rangers (carrying AK’s which I doubt could even fire from the looks of them). Rangers are assigned to protect certain rhinos, which they know by number. This means they should know where the rhinos for which they are responsible are at any given time. Our two ladies were no exception. They directed our guide to a particular spot, where we got out and began to walk towards a mountain. Within 10 minutes or so, our guide took over and moved us to a particular location on the side of a rocky outcrop. I wasn’t sure where we were supposed to be looking. Our guide was pointing, and I kept looking in the direction of the point, but couldn’t see anything. I then realized I couldn’t see anything because I was looking some hundreds of yards out, when there was a rhino sleeping under a tree 10 yards in front of us. And she had a calf with her – less than three weeks old. Magnificent. The calf was unconcerned with us – curious, if anything, but didn’t want to get too far from mom. Mom, once she realized we were there, got up, took at look at us, and then lay back down. Incredible, but the price of habituation to people is that some people are poachers. Most horns are cut off in Matopos, but the stumps which are left are still worth more than most Zimbabweans will earn in a year.
After seeing the rhino, we drove around the park, getting out to sample bushman’s soap among other things. We saw blue wildebeest, kudu, sable, warthogs, impala and the odd cow (which aren’t supposed to be there . . .). A great tour by a great guide.
After we left our Swedish friends, Dean took us to wonderful spot where he set up a magnificent lunch under a huge boulder. We sat back and enjoyed the lovely day.
After lunch, we visited the grave of Cecil Rhodes. He chose the spot where he wished to be buried, and a beautiful spot it is. Apparently he would ride to the rock where his grave now is when he needed to think.
Nearby is a monument to Leander Starr Jameson, who led the Jameson Raid (and got in a fair bit of trouble for doing so, the politics of the situation between Great Britain and South Africa having changed while he was in the bush).
The monument to the Jameson Raid
We then went to see the cave paintings which are also found in the park. Another fascinating spot, and well worth the journey.
That was enough for the day. We returned to Bulawayo, and went out with Dean and his lovely wife for a great dinner. The next day we had just enough time before our flight to head downtown and stop at Giga’s & Sons, where Mr. Giga, one of the largest retailers of Courtney boots in Zimbabwe (if not the largest), outfitted me with a great pair of Courtney boots. What better way to end a trip to Zimbabwe than buying a pair of boots made just across town?
My wife was really very happy with her “photo safari”. She had tracked animals in the bush, and had seen, up close, elephant, black rhino, buffalo, kudu (lots of females and some males), waterbuck, eland, blue wildebeest, zebra, impala, giraffe, steenbok, warthog, lions (male and female), jackals, honey badgers, hyena (spotted and brown), genet, civet, bush babies, porcupine, bat eared foxes, klipspringer and an amazing variety of types of eagles, vultures and other birds, including beautiful storks and herons, kori bustards and secretary birds. When I add the white rhino and sable in Matopos, and the crocodile and hippo in Vic Falls, it’s hard to see how we could have done better.
Incredible bird life everywhere
