On June 17 Shawn drove us the six-and-a-half hours from Dendro Park to Bird Estate, Balla Balla's sable-hunting grounds. For the first half of the drive we were the only motor vehicle on the road, alone with the bicyclists and foot traffic. As we moved farther down the road, and forward in time on the scale of human civilization, we began to overtake cotton trucks and an occasional battered car. Shawn, driving quickly but competently, overtook and passed them all. We reached Bird Estate in the early afternoon, and Shawn said Dene would be coming at 3:00 to take us out hunting.
Dene picked us up forty-five minutes late in a good facsimile of a World War II-era Willy’s Jeep. Dene said it had a fiberglass body made in South Africa. He had bought it as a kit and put it together himself, after finding a diesel engine and old Ford chassis. It was two-wheel drive, but it went everywhere Dene asked it to go, at least now, in the dry season. He had a little rack on the dash in front of the passenger’s seat to hold the stock of a rifle and a bracket on top of the steering wheel for holding the barrel. Every now and then I caught a whiff of diesel fumes as we went. My wife was as delighted as a child to ride in a camp chair resting in the back of the two-seater jeep and wanted her photo taken in that position.
We saw a lot of sable over the several days we spent hunting them, and with Dene there, being under his tutelage you might say, I was enrolled in a graduate-level course in sable hunting. I could see now that some of the photos I’d seen in hunting books and internet sites of dead sable, posed beside the hunter, made me now question whether the bull was fully mature. They were not all black, except for the brown in their ears and the white on the belly, and their horns were not dark enough or were not long enough. Had I not enrolled in Dene’s course I would not know how to tell the maturity of a ram, where and what time to look for the bulls, and most especially how to see them in the stands of acacia trees. The challenge was to try to find the black form of the sable amidst the shadows and patches of light, when the animal’s legs are the same size and color as the trunks of the acacia.
As we rounded the pond at Bird Estate a small bird of prey chased smaller shorebirds, twisting and diving in the air above the lake. I never did see the outcome of the pursuit, but I was rooting for the hawk, fellow hunter. Egyptian geese, cranes, small ducks arose squawking. All of the water birds we saw in Zambia were very skittish, as if they’d been shot at before. We were crossing the earthen dam that formed the impoundment when we flushed from a nearby bush the most gorgeous bird I have ever seen, what Dene said was a lilac-breasted roller, brilliant dark blue, light blue, and lavender in the sunlight.
Dene turned at a fork in the jeep trail. We passed tall, strange-looking cactus with their branches spreading out from a single level, looking like brushes painting the sky. We saw termite mounds the size of our tent, bigger even, and the regular small depressions of ant lion traps in the dust on the road, almost in a line, like the tracks of miniature ski poles in the snow. I didn’t see any ants, so the odds of any particular ant lion getting a meal looked pretty slim.
We saw no sable that afternoon, but late in the day we stalked a herd of impala until I had a clear shot from about 120 yards away, while they stood looking at us.
“The third from the right is a nice one,” Dene told me.
I found a tree and braced my rifle against it. I counted over three impala from the right, and fired. The impala flopped over, kicking.
“Why don’t you walk over to him,” Dene said quietly, “while I get the jeep?”
As I drew near the dead impala, I realized something was wrong. The horns were way too small for a mature ram.
Dene and Setsuko arrived in the jeep and climbed out. “You shot the wrong one, I’m afraid.”
I nodded, embarrassed. I still don’t know how I made the mistake, but the most probable explanation is that I saw a different impala from my position against the tree than the one Dene was talking about. Either that, or I can’t count to three or don’t know left from right. Whatever, it appeared that my impala jinx was still in effect.
Dene was a good sport about it. He could have charged me a trophy fee for the impala. I was the one who pulled the trigger. But he said we needed camp meat, and that was that. My wife had to ride with the chair sitting on the impala, and she didn’t like it much, with the chair wobbly from two legs resting directly on the animal; and her hat got bloody when it fell to the floor of the jeep. Dene asked a camp assistant, Nando, to clean the hat; over Setsuko’s protests, he took the hat away and had it back to her spotless by the end of the following day.
June 18 - We spotted plenty of sable the first full day of hunting them, mostly cows and immature bulls. The females and immature males were typically in mixed groups, but the bulls were solitary. The sable ignored the jeep or drifted back further into the acacias as we drove by. They were shy of the jeep, but not alarmed by it. Dene and I were by ourselves. My wife enjoyed going along on the hunt, but today she accompanied Dene's wife Jan to the town of Choma.
We crept along in the jeep, glassing likely-looking shadows in the acacia. Dene spotted two bulls standing in the trees on the driver’s side of the jeep. They were eating the acacia seedpods, he said. Dene inspected the bulls for what seemed like a long time. I couldn’t see a damn thing.
“That one on the left has nice horns, but there’s damage to one of them. Maybe he got shot there or injured himself in a fight.”
We drove on without my ever seeing the sable he mentioned, and after a while Dene spotted another bull. I finally made him out, sitting down in the shadows, apparently ignorant or indifferent to our presence.
“Nice one, that,” he said. “But his horns flare out quite a bit. Is that what you want?”
I found the sable in my binocular and thought about it. This was my first difficult decision to make as a trophy hunter. I’d already decided I wanted a sable with closer-set horns. The gamble now was whether I would see a better sable than this one. I might not, in my three remaining days of hunting; I might wind up with a lesser bull or even get skunked. On the other hand, this sable hunting didn't seem that difficult. We were seeing lots of sable. Why not spend some time shopping for the right horn configuration? Why not hold out for the perfect sable? I told Dene no, I didn’t want this one.
At 11:30 we went back to camp for brunch. Dene cooked eggs, bacon, sausage, and potatoes in what Americans would call a wok but he called something else.
“Sorry, I’m going to have to do the cooking, with Jan gone. Nando is still learning, and none of the other boys know how to cook.”
On our hunt that afternoon Dene spotted a good bull on his side of the jeep, and naturally I couldn’t see a damn thing. The acacia trees stood at almost uniform height and distance apart, as if they were part of an abandoned, overgrown orchard. Somewhere in there was a sable bull Dene was looking at. Finally I made out the shape of a sable where his black body blended with the shadows and his legs merged with the lower trunks of the acacia. All black, no tint or tone of brown. Dene drove on by and stopped a few hundred yards up the road. There was a good crosswind blowing right then. Hunching low, we crept back along the edge of the acacias.
Just then the wind changed and I felt it on the back of my neck. Oh, crap. And stronger words to the same effect. A moment later we heard the sound of a sable galloping away. A while later, another stalk on a different sable was spoiled by a duiker that seemed to materialize right out of the ground in front of me and bounded off toward the sable.
That afternoon we saw no sable, just lechwe, impala, guinea fowl, and eland. And many duiker that bounded away from the jeep like Arctic hares wearing summer colors. Dene offered me the chance to shoot a duiker male for free, and I was willing to consider it, as revenge for spoiling our stalk; but I couldn’t see how you’d ever hope to get one without a shotgun. Or even tell the difference between a male and a female. I decided to take Dene up on his offer of a free duiker, if a shot presented itself, and so long as it didn't interfere with the pursuit of sable.
“Okay, the next one we see, how do you tell what sex it is?”
“The females have a tuft of hair between their ears, looks like a single horn. The males look hornless, unless you look close to their ears.”
Later that day, in the coming evening dusk, I did get my revenge. Dene spotted a duiker ram watching us from the shadows of the trees, and then I saw him, his two little horns standing up like spikes beside his ears. He must have felt safe in the tree-shadows because he stood there watching us while Dene set up the sticks and I shot. The rifle’s recoil caused me to lose the sight picture for a moment, and then I saw a duiker bounding off unharmed.
“Did I miss?”
“No, you got him. There was a female with him.”
The ram never twitched. I’d shot him right in the shoulder like I was supposed to, and the 200-grain bullet from my .300 Win Mag left the off-shoulder hanging by a strip of skin to his body. The duiker had two little spike horns, smaller than my index finger, set near the ears and pointing straight up. After photos of of me holding up the good side of the little antelope, Dene lifted the duiker with one hand and put it in the back of the jeep. It was almost dusk, and we hunted our way back toward camp until it became dark enough to need the headlights, and then we just drove.